Passat (B5) :: Rough Running Engine / Bucking / No Power / Slow Start / Low RPMs
Mar 25, 2007
I dont know if this is related but my ignition switch went a few weeks ago, I got the part in the mail this week and was planning on changing it today, but a few days ago my 99 Passat v6 started bucking, kinda like it did when i needed motor mounts...but my engine is really weak and rough. I opened the hood and saw that my air filter hose was disconnected right after the MAF (or at least i think its the MAF).... I don't know how long its been sucking up dirty air. but does that sound like they are related? a friend of mine said if i can see the butterfly valve in the air hose, open it up and spray a can of carb cleaner in it, put the filter back on, start the car and let it run, then do it again with another can and it should fix it. I cant see the butterfly air valve in the hose, since the hose goes down behind the engine. Should i just spray it in anyway? or does have to be press on the gas pedal...
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Truck is running bad when first cranked in the morning, is bucking and running rough until warmed up, think the oil needs to be changed and which additive is better the archoil or Rev x?
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2006 F350 6.0 ... I am piling up parts for a bulletproof party later this summer. It has gotten grumpy ahead of schedule. I will hook up the AE tomorrow for consultation.
In the meantime. Running rough at 50. Seems to accelerate from a stop semi ok. Sitting at idle, holding rpm at 1750 I hear kind of a thump under the hood and the rpm drops 300, then slowly finds it way back to 1750 and it repeats itself.
This thump has not been noticed in the past. Could this be the VGT not working as expected?
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Since our weather has returned to the cold side......my truck has started bucking and hesitating at 45 mph with EOT @ 130 and ECT @ 140. I can gas on it and it will clear up/let off and it would start up again once it gets below 50 mph. Once the deltas reach 150+ it clears up completely. Its never done this until this week. FICM volts are steady @ 48V. What is causing this or what to look for?
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I have a 2004 VW Touareg with 116K miles. Yesterday the check engine light came on and she is running very rough at low RPMs. The manual tells me that there is either a problem with the exahust manifold or an O2 sensor is bad. It feels as if she is struggling for air. When you start the vehicle the check engine light flashes then stays on in the cluster. What can I expect when I take it in to the dealership? Is there anything I can check before I take it in?
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How many O2 sensors does a 2.3 fi 4 cyl. have. I think just one on the manifold, but I'm not completely sure. Engine is running very rough and seems to miss at low RPMs, has no power and drinks gas like crazy!!! Emissions light is on on the dash. I'm thinking O2 sensor......tried replacing, but couldn't get enough torque on the sensor socket wrench to loosen, may be rusted.
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I own a 2001 Jetta GLX 12v VR6, lately the car has not been running well. It chokes the power past 3500 rpm's and will continue running poorly and sound sort of like a Subaru boxer engine. Sometimes it corrects itself and runs okay but goes back and forth.
I ran the codes on VAG COM:
6 faults found:
17551 - Load calculation cross check
P1143 - 35 - 10 upper limit exceeded - intermittent
16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (g61)
P0328 - 35 - 10 Signal too high - intermittent
[Code] .....
I ran VAG COM a couple of days before these codes came up and I had a different code dealing with air/fuel mixture, something about fuel running to rich. I'm stumped.
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My car recently started running rough (felt like it was misfiring). I took it to a local mechanic who went through all the normal possible problems and determined that it was a computer issue but did not have the equipment to diagnose it. I then took it to a VW dealer who said it was a bad ECU. They wanted a fortune to replace the unit so I sent it to a ECU repair shop in the UK. The repair shop said there was nothing wrong with the ECU and I have since put it back in the car which still continues to run rough. What else may be causing this issue especially considering that the VW dealer said it was a bad ECU but the repair shop said it was not?
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B5.5 GLX 4Motion ... My Car has no Power. Idles rough. Take off is slow. I can stomp it to the floor but the RPM needle barely moves.
Mechanic says I have many codes going off but thinks its the MAF. Already spent a bundle (misdiagnosed or ripped off) on other non related stuff that was supposed to fix this problem.
Mechanic says 90% sure but part is non return able. Need to know where to get the MAF cheap and quickly. Also part number or other identifying information so I don't get the wrong one.
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92 PA Base, 141,000 mls
Whenever I have to drive for more than 50 - 75 miles or for one hour at a constant speed, the engine causes the car to buck and loose acceleration. When I press the gas pedal down to the floor, the rpm's stay at zero or when I lightly press the gas pedal, it would accelerate but with noticeable hesitation and difficulty. I go from maintaining speeds of 70 miles down to 40 miles. It also feels like no fuel is getting to the engine. This causes me to pull over for a few minutes, shut the engine off, and then its okay to drive for a few more miles.
I replaced the fuel filter and the MAF sensor. When I changed the MAF, I noticed that the bottom portion of the old one where the little wires are, was broken. I really thought that was the issue but when I replaced it, it started doing the same thing. What should I check or replace next?
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So- I take the variant in for a 65000 mi service- i.e oil change- and to get the recall done on the crankcase hose. I pick it up, drive out, and at first stop sign --- it starts running rough and engine light comes on. Take it back- they throw the computer on it and it throws a code for vacuum leak connected to brakes.. they take it back-pick up next day---they had to replace the brake booster (under warranty, extended-nice of em, I guess), because, they say, the cowling plug was plugged and water filled the booster. I HAD smelled musty water smell. But- why did it just go in the shop?? 60 bucks to unclog drain- W.
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So my MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp/CEL) came on a while ago. I haven't had the loot to bring it to the dealership so I just kept on driving. At the same time I knew my CV joints were going bad cause I could hear them clicking when I turn. Well two days ago while cruising down the road the motor all of a sudden started running SUPER rough and had like no power. At the same time the MIL started blinking. I was like a mile away from home so I just drove it home and parked it.
Tomorrow I am going to replace the CV joints but I can't figure out how that would have anything to do with the motor running super rough. When I pulled it in the shop tonight from outside, the car was super sluggish and if i would ease on the gas the rpm would go below 1000 and I thought it was gonna clunk. Oh yeah and a couple weeks ago my cruise control quit working! I only have 70k miles on this thing! It's a 2003 Passat GLS 1.8T automatic with just front wheel drive.
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I'm having an issue with a 2008 Passat 2.0T. Engine ran rough one day and check engine light came on! I get the VagCom out, scan the ECU and get misfire on cylinder #2 and #4. Car has 109 000km. Plugs were never changed so I order some new OE Bosch platinum iridium plugs. Go for test drive after having change the plugs and I still get misfire on both cylinder number 2 and 4.
I know coil on plug are prone to be weak on those engines so I go ahead and order 4 new coils which are pretty low cost which is good. Once install on the car I go again on a test drive. car ran really smooth and no check engine light came on. I said fine! I fixed the problem only to discover the day after that the CEL decide to come back on I scan again and this time only get misfire on cyl #2 with fault frequency of 39.
I suspect my injector to be bad but before I decide to remove the intake manifold and spend another 2-300$ in parts. Any way to test my injector with VagCom in order to see if that really is my problem. Also heard the PCV could be a problem but i hardly doubt it would throw a fauly code on just one cylinder.
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2003 7.3 excursion.. The truck starts every time revs up and idles about 3 seconds then the rpms drop and it tries to stall out catches itself then revs backup and idles rough similar to if you have got air in the fuel lines from changing the fuel filter.. About 1 in five times the truck will stall out and it starts and immediately and idles rough but the rpms and everything runs at speed and rpms don't drop again! This is a reman engine/transmission recently installed.. The mechanic who installed it was unable to figure the problem out.
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I have an 03 Passat with about 70K miles on it. My daughter put rug in it this morning (about 7 gallons) and since then the check engine light came on and the car is running really rough at stops. While accelerating, it seems to be fine. It is also getting about 10 mpg less than normal. MIL codes: P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, and P0171. He said the P03xx codes were related to misfirings on each cylinder. The P0171 is a bank 1 failure (?). What do those codes really mean and could they be related to bad gas? Sent her off in my TDI JSW so she's not out on the highway if the Passat decides it doesn't want to go anymore.
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So I was driving my 2001 1.8t last night and put the pedal to the floor to make a yellow light and the check engine light began to blink and the engine started running very rough ever since. It idles very rough and it seems like I have lost a lot of the power.
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I am having a problem with a 6.7. The truck has 9900 miles on it. It has a dpf delete, egr delete, Spartan tuner and a snow stage 3 kit. The truck lopes at idle but once throttle is applied it levels out but still runs a little rough. Its keeps saying its in reduce engine power no matter how many times I clear the code. If I clear the code it will come back in 2 seconds with out cranking the truck or anything. Rail pressure is telling me 31090 psi and not changing running or not. I have changed rail pressure sensor, and pressure control valve with no result. The green and violet 5 volt reference that feeds those sensors is only putting out 1.2 volts. Put a new pcm in it still the same and now has quit running totally. The codes are P0193, P0335,and P06A6.
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Well, I've read a lot of threads on this problem! Try to do my own repairs, so I'm learning and not spending a lot of cash at repair shops.I have an 04 6.0 Super Duty Crew. Starting running rough on way home. Pulled over ,then it died.wouldn't start. Had towed home. Replaced ficm circuit board. No start. Replaced Harness,
icp...... ipr Sensors. Still no start. I noticed there is another circuit board inside ficm. Should I have bought the whole ficm unit?
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When I'm driving and get above 50-60 I will get the Check Engine Light. Check the codes It shows 6 ---300, 303, 306, 300, 303, 306. When I slow the car down it is running rough, almost like it has a miss.
I reset the computer while this is going on and the engine smooths out and it runs correctly until I keep my pedal down and then it kicks the exact same errors.
Here's strange part number one: Once I get down to about a gallon or two of gas in the car everything seems to run fine. I have plenty of power, no codes and the car runs fantastic!
Strange part number 2: Very occasionally When I get in the car in the morning to go to work, the car is a bit difficult to start. When it finally kicks over, it is immediately running rough. resetting the computer with the engine running does not seem to stop the rough running. If I turn off the engine and let the car set for a bit it will start and run fine, with the exception of the first problem mentioned in this thread. There is no code while it is running rough, but when the Light kicks on as per the first issue mentioned, I have an additional code -- 335. This car has been excellent up until the last few months when this issue developed.
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I have a 2004 gls 1.8t Jetta. It has a straight piped turbo back exhaust, and a stage 2 tune. I recently had a problem with my car starting to rough idle when the engine gets to proper temp. The car starts to idle roughly, and when driving the car will bog down, if I keep my foot on the gas, the car acts like it is coasting and the rpms fall, but at some point the car will shoot off like i floored it. At lower rpms in the 1st and second gear, the car will randomly and periodically start bucking, with the same symptoms. I already replaced my coil packs and spark plugs with a kit off ecs, and when i went to change the spark plugs i had oil on the spark plugs and oil leaking from a bad valve cover gasket, so that was replaced as well. I replaced the fuel filter already.
The MAF sensor was just cleaned and didn't look too dirty. When I unplug the MAF it still idles rough. The fuel pump relay can be heard working properly when the door opens. Another problem that sometimes occurs on cold start is if I don't wait long enough for the pump to activate or sometime right after it starts, the car will start partly then stall out. When driving and the car is bucking the exhaust gives rich fuel smell. Also when 2 stepping in the car (which I don't do very often), the CEL starts to blink and the car misfires and drives rough. I figure since I don't have many parts on it yet I probably shouldn't do it anyway so I don't blow up the engine.
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Drove fairly fast (160km/hr or 100 miles/hr) then took an exit down a ramp and had to stop at a red light. Noticed all of a sudden that the engine was running bit rougher and then noticed the yellow engine light blinking. I know to turn off the engine immediately when this occurs but then all of a sudden engine light turned off and car was running smooth again.
Car has been reliable for 7 years - proper maintained, synthetic oil, 171000km, timing belt changed, burns very little oil, good torque. Should I have it checked by the dealer (fantastic fair vw dealer)?
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