Passat (B5) :: Rough Idle / Steering Wheel Shakes And RPMs Around 500
Jan 14, 2012
It just started last week, only when in drive, checked vac lines, good ignition system including new plugs, its very annoying the steering wheel even shakes, what to look into, the rpm at idle is around 500. 1.8T
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I have a 2004 SD with 5.4 that is running pretty rough both at idle and driving. Truck shakes a lot at lower rpms. I have a scan tool and had a misfire on cylinder 4 so I replaced the coil and the plug. Also replaced the idle air control valve. Plan on replacing O2 B1 S2. (One of my codes) even after replacing the coil and plug I'm still getting misfire detected from cylinder 4??? Other codes I had were misfire detected on he first 1000 revolutions. That hasn't come back though.
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Noticed the steering wheel shakes just slightly at highway speeds. Happens to me when I'm at around 65-70mph and above. It's just very slight, so I really wasn't thinking its an alignment issue at all. I didn't know if this was a bit normal for these B7s or what. I've had alignment issues in cars before and this just doesn't feel that bad, but its enough to give me pause.
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I have been having this problem with Gf's car for a few months it is a 06 3.0 escape with 141K on the clock the car seems to run ok except at red lights and when in drive it seems to idle like its just about 100 rpms low when I give it a little gas just a touch it smoothes out. if I put it in neutral the car smooth's out but in drive when you come to a stop light or stop sign you can feel the rough or low idle in the steering wheel. She is nagging me and it has been very cold here in Pa and I'm trying to wrap my head around if it is a cold thing or just a coincidence. I'm fairly good at wrenching and I just need some things to look for as when you start the car up cold it idles fast like 12 to 1300 rpms and then drops to about 900 and in drive it seems like maybe it's about 600 to 700 rpms. but where to start to look Is it a sensor, vacuum leak ?
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I have a 2004 Malibu Classic well maintained 2.2 L engine 20k miles. When the engine is warm in drive at idle, the engine shudders vibrates the dash and steering wheel. It idles smooth when cold. In drive it settles to a base idle about 575-600 RPM. When I raise the RPM with the peddle just a bit maybe 50 RPM it idles perfect. Otherwise the engine runs perfect, air cleaner and plugs are like new. Is there any way to adjust the idle up or identify what sensor controls the idle?
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when Im going down a hill or when I hit a certain speed my steering wheel shakes and I don't mean a small shake I mean my arms are grabbing the steering wheel to keep control and they are violently shaking with the wheel. Now in the begining I heard that if alot of snow got packed into your tires the wheels would shake but theres no snow I check everyday before I leave and if there is I get it out. So then I think maybe it could be my tires aren't balance right but no less then 2 and 1/2 months I got new snow tires put on in a shop so they SHOULD'VE balanced them right? so that can't be the problem so then I thought alingnment! but the thing with that is if I let go of the wheel when I'm going under 50-60 miles an hour and it stays pretty damn straight then it can't be that either..
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I have 2009 Honda Accord with approximately 66,000 miles (I drive 70 miles r/t to work every day). I had service done on my car the other day to get the front brake rotors replaced and four new tires. Upon receiving my car and driving to Boston the car began to shake at highway speeds (50+). I took it back to the mechanic and they re-balanced the tires. I drove to work the next day and the car still shakes (albeit now at 60+). Today the mechanic rotated the tires in case there was a bent rim in the front causing this. However, on my drive today the car still shakes (though it's not as violent or noticeable as the trip to Boston).
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My steering wheel vibrates when I stop or when i turn on the AC...
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Audi A3 3.2 owner here from Fortitude and have rough / lumpy idle issues? While at a stop in neutral w/a cold or warm engine, it seems a little rougher than one would expect. If you rev it to 1000-1100 rpm the whole car shakes.
Engine Mounts worn?
APR Software causation?
Cam Followers or faulty coils?
Do I need a heavier duty front and top engine mount?
Wondering if CAI and Exhaust along w/ the APR ECU tune is causing it or if I'm just being paranoid.
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My 2010 Tiguan R-Line only experiences vibration in the steering wheel noticeably at 70mph plus. The tyres were brand new when i collected the car in July this year and the alloys have been balanced since having the existing alloy weights replaced with new ones in August. What the problem could be and how best to resolve this nagging issue.
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1981 Corvette rebuilt/restored. 35+ mph. steering wheel shakes/vibrates. Higher speed, depress clutch, smooth ride. Taken to mechanic recently, test driven to acknowledge, lift done twice, no clue.
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I have a 2001 Toyota celica GT auto. It has 120k miles. I seem to have an issue that really is not causing a problem except for annoyance. After coming to a stop the car seems to exhibit the signs of stalling (car idles rough, shakes a bit) however the car never stalls. Once I start driving all is well. Now I took it to the dealer and they replaced the Idle Air Control Valve which is under the throttle body. They said it was getting stuck and due to the higher mileage possible. It was replaced and the problem is still there. The funny thing is even though the car exhibits these stalling symptoms the idle does not drop below 500 rpm (both dealer and I have verified this).
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When i put on the brakes the steering wheel shakes and pulsates. Iam getting mixed info. One person I know said it is the brakes (front), another person said i need the alignment checked. yet another said Rotors, and still another said back brakes.... When i touch the brakes the whole van pulsates and the steering wheel shakes.
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'02 SE!!! It came with issues needing to be fixed and I'm more than happy to do it... but 2 current issues: Front brakes and O2 sensor/check engine...
BRAKES: When slowing down from highway speed, the front end shakes and the steering wheel moves. I'm guessing bad rotors, as I've had the issue before and that was it. I want to do the pads and rotors and call it a day...
But I don't want to buy crap and I know that's mainly what I tend to find at the drop of a hat, so I have to order something anyway.
O2 SENSOR/CHECK ENGINE: The code which is coming up is "P0420" and when I researched that, it came up as being either the O2 sensors or the cat. I'd like to know which O2 sensor is the UPSTREAM, which is the DOWNSTREAM, and if there's a way to test the sensors on the car currently to find out if they are in fact bad.
I've also heard a bit more exhaust noise than I'd like to hear out of the car (like a leak), but it isn't howling yet. Is there a chance that a leak in the flexpipe/downpipe/etc could lead to throwing this code?
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1,200 miles on my gx 460. dealer states, he has balanced all tires, and checked for radial run, at 60-65 miles, my steering wheel shakes.
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I have an 05 Camry LE & when ever I'm on the highway going around 50-80mph & need to break my steering wheel starts to shake until I either stop or put my foot back on the gas. Last year my power steering rack & one of my motor mounts got replaced, & for awhile it stopped & figured because that was going out that's what was causing it.
Well about a month later it started back up & still does it, I've taken it to the dealership & have told them & they test drove it, felt the same thing I felt but didn't find anything. Is there anything else that could be causing it ? Earlier last year my bearings were lose in the front, and I managed to get my brakes stuck & had that all fixed & since then that's when it started shaking . I took it back to that shop & mention every time I go in for oil changes at my dealership, is there something else I'm not aware about that I should ask them to look at ?
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So about a day ago I finished installing my new rotors and pads.. I thought my vibrations are gone.. But I took it for a ride today.. When i brake really hard my steering wheel shakes lightly left and right.. Also when turning right there is a sound coming from the drivers side like the rotor is scraping against something or the rotor shield..? I installed the retainer spring and the first night when i took it for a ride everything was perfect.. Today its making that noise and the steering wheel as well as the vibration..
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I have a issue with my golf 1.9tdi when i start the engine it shakes really bad and feels very rough when sitting in the cab steering wheel vibrates really Bad and engine looks like its going to fly out of the car but when i apply throttle the vibrations go only happens when idling.
What it could be i have done a Diesel Purge, changed the fuel filter, cleaner the EGR Valve, changed the coolant temp sensor, checked the injector loom for continuity and resistance everything was fine, checked resistance on injectors readings was all the same, flywheel seems fine when running (no movement) and no change when i dip the clutch, engine mounts i changed the right hand side one all the rest are fine and not penetrated.
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My accent just crossed 180K mark. From last year the steering wheel shakes quite a bit at highway speeds ,say 70MPH. It's especially bad when I accelerates . Took the car to a shop, they told me two things, the CV axle of passenger side needs replacement, and the wheel hub bearings are bad(both front wheels). They quoted me $200 for replacing the cv axle, and $400 for replacing both front wheel bearings. Since I don't even think the car worth $600 right now(given high mileage), I told them I'll just do the axle(I know how to do it myself but don't have the time, plus it won't be that much cheaper DIY anyway). They said fine, but if you don't replace the bearings you may have the wheel fly off one day and that's dangerous.
They replaced the axle, and the car drives a lot better now. There's still a little bit of shaking at high speed but 75% of that shake has gone away. My question is, does the worn out bearing causes car to tremble at high speed? I heard other people told me there should be a grinding or loud hawling sound if the bearings are bad, but I don't hear that. I searched the internet and some people say, to determine if the hub bearings are bad, just drive it for 10 minutes then feel the hub. If it's barely warm, the bearings are good. If it's warm to hot, then the bearings are bad. I felt it and it's warm, but not too hot to touch. I tried the rear wheels and those are barely warm indeed.
So from this method it seems the front wheel hub bearings are indeed bad. I wonder how long I can keep driving this without endanger myself. $400 is not cheap for this car and I don't have a machine to press in the bearings myself. I can disassemble the rotor and hub that's not a big deal, but I don't know how to get the old bearing out and the new bearing in. Is there a machine shop that just do the pressing? Or, is there any shop selling the hub assembly with bearing already in place? this way I just remove the old hub assembly and replace it with the new assembly, a lot easier. I searched the internet but can only find pre-assembled hub w/ bearing for the rear wheel of this car. I need the front ones.
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My old car has this problem when it's on highway the steering wheel shakes quite a bit. Is it a wheel alignment problem or wheel balancing problem? Since I've just fixed the transmission I am driving this car more often(to save gas) and this problem is really annoying.
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I have a small amount of play in my steering wheel. Very noticeable on the highway at high speeds. The steering wheel shakes in my hand.
1. Checked the tires for balance.
2. Checked the tie rods.
3. Brand new stabilizer bars on both sides.
Is there something I am missing or overlooked.
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