Passat (B5) :: Rotational Vibration (front To Back) During Mid To Hard Acceleration In 5th Gear
May 6, 2008
I have what feels like a rotational vibration (front to back) during mid to hard acceleration in 5th gear (60-65+mph) and its driving me crazy trying to figure this out. I can slightly feel it under hard acceleration in 3rd gear as well.
I have tried two different sets of wheels (both after market and stock) with no luck. I am starting to think it is in the motor and not the suspension... Or could it be the trans? What can I check/inspect to get how to tackle this?
Info on the car: 2003 Wagon 1.8T 5sp. 40k miles
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I'm hoping to see if there is another solution here. I just hit 100k on my .:R and it has developed a vibration that increase with speed front right. I have done a few things already including the following: swapped out winter wheels for summer, had summer wheels re-balanced (both are hub centric). Both lower control arm bushings on L&R side (both were original), new ball joint front right (it was wiped), new hub assembly/wheel bearing front right, re-torqued all the sub frame bolts to spec, inspected tie rod end - appears OK, inspected strut mount - appears OK, strut and coil appear OK, neither CV boot is not torn. replacing the wheel bearing made it quieter but the vibration is still there. It feels like the worst possible unbalanced wheel and the vibration is exaggerated under a load. I'd try a CV next but I'm having a hard time sourcing a front right CV.
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Recent axle replacement and now I've noticed that there is some annoying vibration under hard acceleration and at speeds around 65+.
I just read that cheap replacement axles suck. However, I also read that the OEM are hollow and the cheapos are solid. Could only replacing one side cause there to be some sort of imbalance and cause the vibration?
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I bought a B5.5 wagon with 145kmi on it last week. It's a 1.8t with a tiptronic transmission.
Last night, when I stepped on the accelerator for the first time when it downshifted I got a nasty vibration until I let off. When just cruising or accelerating at a normal speed there is no vibration at all. It doesn't matter if you're doing 20 mph or 60mph, it's the same vibration when you accelerate hard.
I'm thinking maybe a motor mount or something?
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I have a 99 VW Passat with 2.8 V6, FWD, Automatic tranny and it currently has 94.5K miles. Under semi hard or hard acceleration from either a rolling or standing start, the car vibrates something terrible. Steering wheel has bad vibration and the whole car shakes. If you back off and accelerate very slowly its pretty smoother.
I have had the tires balanced 3 time but the last 2 times the dealer and Sears didn't even move the weights. When cruising at amy steady speed on the highway there is no vibration whatsoever. So I don't think tire balance is the problem. The dealer then put in two brand new half shafts but its no better. I asked them to check the motor mounts but they said they are fine.
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my wife has a 03 wagon 1.8t with a manual, lately she and i have been having problems getting car into second under normal acceleration from a stop.
Clutch is good no slippage problems.
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I recently I had the cv boots replaced on my 2006 VW Passat 2.0. Since then the front vibrates upon acceleration. I have taken the car to a different mechanic than the one who did the cv boots and he says there may be a broken motor mount. I am skeptical about this diagnosis but now am completely stumped.
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Not sure if it's related to the crappy weather we've been having here in the NE, but I've got this terrible rotational scraping / grinding noise coming from the front end (sounds like the right corner). At first I thought it must be the belly pan or a fender liner came loose after driving through snow / ice but everything looks fine. Only occurs when moving, under load, it's affected by steering a bit. I'm watching two little kids I haven't been able to get the wheels off for a closer look.
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I recently changed out my stock clutch for a SB Stg.2 endurance clutch. Under hard acceleration my car has developed a serious vibration. I had all four tires road forced balanced but this did nothing. It almost feels as if I have a bent wheel but had no issues prior to the install.
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Vehicle is a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer with 123,000 miles. During moderate to hard acceleration in a straight line, especially in gears 1 to 3, the front of the car vibrates. The harder I accelerate, the worse the vibration gets. Once I get into 4th gear and get up to 40 MPH, I can put the pedal to the floor and while it will do it, it is very slight. Check engine light is off.
Interestingly, on the way to work there is a 25 MPH cloverleaf and coming out of the cloverleaf onto the highway, it did not do it until the wheels were pointed straight ahead.
Deceleration, even when aggressively downshifting, is vibration-free.
I do not believe it is ignition related - the car idles fine, has plenty of power under hard acceleration, and doesn't do it when going around that cloverleaf. (As a side note, about a year ago a plug wire went bad, leaving one cylinder with no spark. In this case the engine vibrated violently, but was obviously down on power.)
There are no strange noises in the front end. No clicking around corners typical with a failing constant velocity joint, and no mechanical thuds or sqweaks over bumps I'd expect from a failing ball joint or bushing.
I am having some unusual tire wear on the outside edges of the tires, like you would see with under-inflation, but tire pressure is fine. In my mind, this points to bad ball joints.
It still has the original constant velocity joints and axles as well as the original ball joints. The one motor mount I can see looks okay. I'm thinking in order of liklihood (most likely to least likely):
1) bad axle
2) bad ball joints
3) bad motor mount
Anything else I need to check? Wheel bearings? If I do replace the axles, I will replace the front wheel bearings while I'm in there.
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01' Screw 5.4 4wd. Went camping this past weekend and it was the first outing for this truck our TT weighs 6k. When accelerating from a dead stop going straight I'm getting a rumble strip like vibration that last a second. If I take off very easy it doesn't do it. I've seen similar post but no definitive solutions. This truck has less then a 100k on it and so far I've changed the trans filter/fluid rear end oil with modifier and new spark plugs.
Once I'm rolling and hammer down it won't do it. It's more of a annoyance then anything.
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I have a 2007 Prius that had a rotational noise on acceleration. I pinpointed the noise to the transmission area and suspected something was wrong with the electric motor. I took it to a local transmission shop and they disassembled the transmission to replace a bearing.
After repairs, they called me and informed me that the hybrid battery needed to be replaced. I've been driving the car for about a week with the noise and had no indication of a battery problem, or any other problem.
I had them tow the car back to my shop. The hybrid battery was discharged. The battery blocks were all between 10 and 12 volts. The vehicle would move slowly, but the ICE wouldn't start up to charge the battery. It had one DTC for hybrid battery malfunction.
I removed the battery from my own Prius and installed it in the car. The ICE fired up right away and shut off soon after, which would be completely normal in my car. But the engine never started again. I drove a short distance all on electric. The battery bars depleted quickly. Regen braking was not operating. There was a shudder every so often on acceleration. I'm not sure if it's in the transmission or the ICE is attempting to start? There are no DTCs so far.
The screen indicating where the power is going indicates that the engine is ON and delivering power even when it clearly is not. Not sure where to go with this one. It seems really odd that the ICE started once and won't start up. I tried disconnecting the battery and starting over, but the ICE still does not start up. I looked around the transmission for something disconnected, but found nothing.
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I just brought my6 Speed Automatic Transmission Phaeton V8 in, because under hard acceleration mostly between 3+4 or 5+6 for a short moment a howling noise with vibration into gear selector appears. I was able to demonstrated it to the Technician, but he said there is not much to do because no Fault code will show up and if he ask VW they will say he needs a reference vehicle to replicate it.
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But I have noticed over the past week of driving, whenever the RPMs are around 1000-2000, it is very hard for me to pick up speed, and I can feel a little bit of a rumble/vibration through the steering wheel. So...
If I feather the gas, the RPM increases slightly and you can hear/feel the engine rumble/vibrate. The speed doesn't really increase...
If I hit the gas more than 1/2 way down, turbo kicks in and the car shoots forward.
Is this normal? I find it very hard to add a little bit of acceleration if I feather it, the engine seems to be resisting it, if I hit it any harder, the turbo kicks in around 2500 RPMs. It almost feels as if it is in too high of a gear and the engine has a hard time accelerating a little bit...This is around ~40-60KM/hr
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My car has been vibrating under acceleration since past 2 months. It isn't present in first gear but is evident in second and third gear ,and increases with more acceleration. I replaced engine mounts as they were shot,and got the wheels balanced but the vibration still persists
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Lately I've been having trouble with my car in third gear under hard acceleration while in tip mode with DSG. I have been Stage 2 since April and it hasn't really been an issue until recently.
The best way I can describe it is when you get into 3rd with your foot on the gas the car stops accelerating and kind of gets stuck. I have to completely let off the gas and before it "wakes up" again. I feel like it's been getting worse in worse, but it only ever happens when I try to push it hard.
No problems in auto mode or sport, it's just a major let down. Could the fuel pump be the culprit? It just feels like the car doesn't want to move for a second or 2, like no response from the gas pedal.
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Having problems where sometimes the car won't go into gear, other times it's fine? The problem started after some hard acceleration in 3rd, there was what felt like a momentary loss in power. I dipped the clutch as I thought a boost pipe had popped off, all was fine (still seeing boost when revved). After this it got progressively harder to get gears, finally resulting in not being able to get into gear at all.
I found I could get it into 1st with the engine off and could go up gears normally, but couldn't change down without stopping and turning the engine off. The clutch is working fine, the biting point is normal. The problem seams to come and go randomly, it will work fine for a while and then start playing up again. When working the gearbox feels normal, there is no grinding or wining noises. I can move between gears normally and do clutch less gear changes.
There is now a vibration which can be felt at 1000rpm when stationary. It feels like it coming from the engine/gearbox and seems like something is out of balance as it shakes the whole car. The car is on 91k, supercharged running 470hp & 370lb/ft (at flywheel) and is fitted with a Spec stage 3+ clutch and solid flywheel.
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I have a 2007 Sonata 3.3 V6 GLS (CDN model) with 102k km (63K miles). Recently, I am noticing a rotational metal-like grinding noise from the front left wheel / engine area when engaging in hard right and left turns - usually a long looped highway on-ramp or sharp 90 degree turns. The interesting thing is this only happens when I am accelerating through the turns - when I left off the gas and cruise I don't hear it anymore.
On the side, I am also getting a single clunk noise when shifting from Park to Drive and vice versa from the same area (front left wheel) - not sure if this is related (i.e. if this is all related to a failing CV joint or wheel bearing).
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W12 2004 light vibration/struggling during light.
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I have a '91 Camry that's my daily 50 mile round trip commute car. It runs well and still has lots of pep at 156,000. There are oil and tranny leaks (tranny leaks around the pan seal) but I check the levels and keep everything topped off. Tranny fluid and filter were changed about 20K miles ago. I am the original owner. Shifting is OK unless I accelerate hard, then it "bumps" into gear. On hard acceleration it is a pretty good bump but if I back off the gas it shifts much better. There are no other symptoms, at lower speeds it shifts fine unless the A/C is on, then I get bumps above the 1-2 shift. What the problem is?
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So today I had a scenario where I had to pull out from a blind corner onto busy street. By the time I pulled out I realized an SUV was coming down the street fairly quickly. My immediate instinct knowing I have 360hp on tap was to put the hammer down.
I basically planted my right foot to the floor and held it there. The truck was already rolling out of the lot and turning into the street at approximately 5-7 mph. This resulted in the truck shifting hard from rolling in 2nd gear, down to 1st. I never drive this way so what I'm asking next is if this is normal or not. As I held my foot to the floor through 2nd & 3rd gears the truck seemed to blip the throttle at 4k then up-shifted from 1st to 2nd gear.
I have a stock Ford Raptor exhaust on my truck with the resonator deleted and when the truck blipped the throttle just prior to the up shift, the exhaust "popped" like a race car with an open exhaust downshifting from speed into an apex. Yes it sounded cool, but it was obviously cutting fuel or throttle for some reason.
So here is the weird part, out of curiosity I tried a few different scenarios just to see if something was wrong with my truck. *Note if I just mash the gas from a dead stop there is no fuel cut going from 1st - 2nd gears at WOT. The fuel cut only happens when I'm leaving out and getting on the gas from a turn.
If I turn off the traction control or advance trac and stability program then there is no fuel cut or 4k rpm, the truck just runs out to the 5600 or so redline seamlessly. Im just wondering if the traction control or torque management is really that sensitive or aggressive? I mean it was 70 degrees out and the road dry, plus I was already at a speed 45-50?? mph where a loss of traction would not be an issue so what gives?
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