I hear it while driving. It's intermittent. I notice it regularly when sitting in a parking spot and "rap" the throttle. It does it every time. No codes. What could this be?
View 1 RepliesI tried to look for earlier posts re a new squeak that my R32 has just developed, now at 16k kms, 10k miles. Noticed it when I was cruising slowly towards the house, a light squeaking as I went on and off the gas; then found that it did it while sitting on the driveway, so I'm thinking maybe a motor mount or exhaust related. Our roads up here in Ontario have been a bit messy, but don't think I have hit anything hard.
My local VW dealer does not handle Audis and has never seen an R32 except mine when I stopped by to pick up a filter, so I don't want a wasted trip if they do not have the "fix", as they are not that close. After owning it for 7k km I'm getting used to the Haldex and DSG, but wish those paddles did not move with the wheel, probably why VW made it upshift in M?
My 98 1.8t Passat is throwing a P1565 Idle Speed Control Throttle Position Lower Limit Not Obtained. I have cleaned the throttle body with no improvement and cleared the code many times with no luck. The car only has 114k on it car runs fine although some times will give me problems starting it ill have to sit and crank it for 40 seconds or more and also will idle on rear occasions 1300 vut normally between 850 and 900.
View 1 RepliesI bought a 2008 about 7 months ago and have had no trouble with it until yesterday.
The "maintenance required" light's been on for about a week as I haven't had a chance to change the oil yet. I swung by an auto parts place to pull the codes, just to make sure it wasn't indicating a real problem. I started the car and had it "ready" when they plugged it in and got no codes. I shut it off, went in, and got all the stuff I needed for the oil change. Then I drove off and the first time I tried to stop it seemed as if the re-gen brakes were not working, it was harder to stop and the pressure was not linear (even more than usual). I didn't notice till then that the E Brake light was on, the (!) light was on, the ABS light was on, and so was the VSC.
I drove it home. Pulled the positive terminal off the battery and let it sit for a while. Upon starting it again, all lights were still on. Brake res is full so I'm not too worried about the hydraulic brakes. After reading through as many threads on here as I could find, I jumped the 4 and 13 terminals in the OBD port and pulled these codes
(!) - 48 66 95
ABS - 42
VSC - 45
and even a 41 from the tire pressure warning.
Where can I look these up?
I have a strange noise that occurs at both highway and surface street speeds. On surface streets at low speeds 45 mph and under, if I let off accelerator to coast and lightly step on accelerator I get this quick sharp noise.
Everything I have read regarding a similar noise is under load and being described as a turbo fart. Clearly I am not under any load. I'm lost.
Definitely not a low woooo noise. Also not a hard accel and release and definitely no chuckle and or popping. The sound is high pitched and quick, roughly .5 to 1 second at most. The sound is more like a "zzzrrp" or "zzzoop". I can replicate the sound 50% of the time easily at speeds under 45 mph by briefly coasting (no accelerator) and lightly tapping the accelerator and releasing or holding. Occasionally this sound will occur at full stop when I step off of the brake pedal and before I step on the accelerator. This sound can also occasionally be heard at highway speeds under similar accelerator conditions though it may be more frequent and I just don't notice it.
Would this condition throw a code? Just received "Total Ford Scan Tool Package Enhanced Bundle SP03" scanner from autoengenuity. Hoping to put it through its paces tomorrow.
Additional info: 145k miles. Injectors serviced by a reputable diesel shop here in Vegas approximately 1.5 years ago. Unknown oil leak where oil is collecting in the valley on top of the engine beneath the turbo. HPOP seals were replaced roughly 1 year ago at another reputable diesel shop here in Vegas. Still have an oil leak (turbo related?) Oil is under 500 miles old and acceptable level. Fuel filter is due for a change but that does not seem to affect condition. Air filter 1000 miles. Thinking about upgrading to AIS severe duty kit soon.
My main relay is chattering badly when my ignition is in the on position but not in the ACC position. All of my "dummy" lights are flashing with the chattering main relay. I have tried to replace both the Start and Main relay and I replaced the battery 3 weeks ago. I have checked the wiring and I do not see anywhere the wires could have been chewed by a mouse and everything appears to be connected. Checked all of the relays and fuses to make sure they were in tightly. Could this be the ignition?
View 1 RepliesIt came on 2-3 miles after a cold start. 3.6 with 137,000 miles. What's next? First car I've owned that uses very little oil between oil changes.
View 1 RepliesIt gives me a code "122 Throttle Position Low", I replace TPS, but after clearing codes, the same code comes back & car still won't start.
View 14 RepliesWhen I am in 6th gear (this only happens in 6th) the shifter kicks forward (towards the front of the car) about a quarter inch when I let off of the gas. When I press the gas again the shifter kicks back (towards the back of the car) a quarter inch.
I believe that this is caused by the haldex disengaging, because no matter how slowly I let off of the throttle, the kick is the same strength (or force? dont really know how to describe it). I was wondering if this is normal, or if I should get it checked out?
When I searched the only thing that came up was checking the mounts. I'm not sure this is the solution to my problem since this ONLY happens when I am in 6th gear, all other gears feel solid.
I was reading the car's settings using the Torque app and an OBDII bluetooth dongle and I realize that at WOT the ECU is only seeing 85% from the TPS. O know on some vehicles there is an actual procedure like turn the key forward, hold the gas pedal at WOT, turn the key all the way forward w/o starting while pulling the turn signal stalk down or something crazy like that to force the ECU to re-measure while you keep the gas pedal pinned to the floor. I know on other cars when it doesn't read a full 100% you miss out on a small amount of power and MPG so if it's an easy procedure with these cars I'd like to reset it. I did some searching but mostly came up with info on how to replace it and a few related subjects but noting on this specifically for this car specifically.
View 2 RepliesReplacing the tps themselves? Is it something a newbie at diy car stuff can do? I'm getting codes P2016, P1295 and P161B, and I see no problem with the car except one thing, when the engine is cold the shift from P to D is rough. Is the tps causing this?
View 9 Replies2004 VW R32, No engine mods. I did have the vacuum line sealed off for the flapper mod for about 3 months but is is now back to normal.
I've got the MIL, ESP, and EPC lights on and scanning codes as follows:
Code-P0222
Definition:
- Throttle pedal position (TPP) sensor/switch "B"
- Circuit Low
Explanation:
- Open or short circuit condition
Probable Cause:
- Poor Electrical Connection
- Faulty TPP sensor
- Faulty throttle valve control module
I don't know much about the situation but I took it to my friends shop first where we replaced the Throttle body, intake, and MAF. Didn't fix the problem so I took it to my local VW dealership and the tech's exact words were.."the codes coming up as a throttle pedal sensor. Is there perhaps a sensor by the pedal that I could check?
I have an annoying rattle the occurs on rough road surfaces. It comes from the front right wheel area but goes away instantly with light brake pedal pressure. Three trips to the shop have not identified the problem. I just read somewhere that there are "anti-rattle clips" or springs on the brake calipers. Is this right and are these the same as the retaining springs/clips that can be seen from the outside through the slots in the alloys wheels?
View 5 RepliesAm getting an EPC light + limp mode + code for accelerator position sensor (implausible signal). I have swapped out the pedal assembly, so it isn't the sensors themselves, and we've checked the wiring to the pedal assembly... I can feel in-car, and I can see via VAG-COM that one of the two sensors is basically toggling between a sensible % reading of pedal position at one moment, and then zero % the next, and of course every time the sensor reads zero, the ECU notes the error and cuts power... but this only happens when the steering wheel is straight or when turning to the right; I can drive around in a leftward circle all day and night without this occurring.
Why? What is there in the steering (either in the column or at the wheels, or basically any place in between) which, if malfunctioning, could affect the accelerator position sensors in one way or another (i.e. either through the normal operation of a safety system, or through a short or other electrical gremlin)?
I have searched and have not found any information on replacing the throttle position sensor. My Santa Fe was running normal. I changed my tp sensor and how it limps along. When I loosened the old TPS, not even removed it, I heard a noise inside the TPS. When I replaced it I adjusted the TPS to read between 9 and 10% on my reader. But when I push on the gas pedal with the key on position the percentage doesn't move. Also when I drive it now it limps along and does not accelerate.
View 2 RepliesClicking in the dash while in motion. I hear clicking in the dash only while stopped (at a light, with the car running in normal driving.) As I slow, I start to hear relays clicking away behind the dash, a sort of constant clicking away in a random sequence, until I start moving again, and then it either stops or is drowned out by road noise.
View 6 RepliesThe horn on my 2010 golf recently went out, so I'm thinking that one of two things happened. Before the horn went out completely, one tone died, then about two months later it stopped working completely. When I press the horn, I hear a click coming from the dash. So, I think it's either a bad relay or both horns went out. How likely is it that both horns go out within a few months of each other?
Anyway, I bought a new horn relay, but how to access the relay panel located in the dash. How to remove the dash sections, or is there a good write up?
Getting code P2125. Read on here to get some electric contact cleaner and see if that works by cleaning the connections.
If I do end up changing out the Throttle Position Sensor, what voltage value do I look for when installing the new one ?
I have a 2000 GTI GLX VR6 and when I start it in the morning (ie cold) after the initial "choke" and the revs drop it becomes erratic. Sometimes it will stall out. If I restart the car it will throw a check engine light and go into limp mode. If I let the car warm up it runs fine. If the car has been driven and is relatively warm it runs fine. Initially there were several codes but after replacing the MAF and the fuel pump relay the only remaining code is P1545.
My mechanic seems to think it may be the coolant temperature sensor. The code seems to indicate the problem is the throttle. "Throttle position control malfunction". Not sure why warming it up makes a difference (unless of course it is the temp sensor). When I replaced the MAF sensor I did clean the throttle body. I was very careful in doing so. Problem existed prior to my cleaning it as well. After changing the fuel pump relay things were better for a few days but then the problem returned.
my old lady has a 2001 olds intrigue with the 3.5L in it. Sunday evening we replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and the Coolant Temp Sensor. Monday she was on her way back to Iowa and the tempature gauge spiked up to the Hot area. I looked it over and could not find anything wrong. I sent her on her way and she made it about a mile before it did it again. The car will spike up to the hot area but the motor shows no signs of over heating. I checked the temps with a heat gun while the car is idling and read out Thermostat housing-160, Rad-80, Rad hose-130, and coolant 170. I than ran the car up so it shows on the gauge its hot and than checked again, it than reads Thermostat housing-172, Rad-100, Rad hose-134, and coolant 184. If I am running it at 1500 rpms it will spike up but once i take it up to 2500 rpms it drops back down to normal on the gauge. I am lost for what it could be.
View 19 Replies2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I had a knock sensor code and replaced it. Then I had a code for the TPS and I replaced it with the new part today and after replacement the vehicle idles at 2000 RPM. what should I change?
View 5 Replies