Passat (B5) :: Recurring CEL Momentarily Went Into Blinking Mode
Jul 31, 2007
My wife's 2003 GLX (V6) atx fwd wagon has almost endless CEL issues. On one occasion it momentarily went into the blinking mode, which did not recur after shutting the car off and restarting. Problems have been all over the map, or so says the dealer (Martens VW in Washington DC), e.g. crankcase ventilation, temp sensor and so on. Car has always run fine but every time we take it into get the CEL fixed, it comes back in about 2 days. BTW, I just bought an extended warranty (before the mfg version expired).
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So my Explorer is a 2004 Eddie Bauer v-6 with about 93K miles, great condition, very clean and never had any issues. I've had it about 6yrs.
For maybe 3-4 years now the truck has seemingly randomly gone into Engine Failsafe Mode in the message center. I haven't noticed any pattern here as to when/why this occurs. The wrench icon lights up as well as the Service Engine Soon light. Sometimes I seem to notice a change in power/performance but often I don't. There are times when this happens every few days, and sometimes it goes weeks without occurring. Often it just goes out of Failsafe Mode after I've turned the truck off and restarted and seems fine again. For all of these years this has been a nuisance more than anything and so I assumed(hoped) it was just a sensor issue and nothing to be worried with.
A few days ago the truck actually shut off while driving...losing power, immediately after it kicked into Failsafe Mode while driving slowly down a straight road (no inclines or anything). Today it went into Failsafe mode, and it kept running, however the gas pedal did nothing...I couldn't accelerate at all though I still had power. Coasted to a stop. Turned truck off, started right up and the gas pedal worked fine. 15 minutes later same thing...this time when I coasted to a stop...I noticed that when I put truck in reverse I WAS able to back up using the gas pedal but couldn't go forward. Turned truck off, ran fine though still in Failsafe Mode...drove home where it sits now.
Don't really wanna drive it now though I need it as my only source of transportation. I did have the scan done on it at Autozone a month or so ago and got the P2106 "Throttle Actuator Control System--Forced Limited Power" reading...which of course means nothing to me...and the guys who worked there had no idea either. I had the oil changed at Midas yesterday where they checked fluids and all that good stuff...I mentioned it before hand and they said they looked at anything they could and couldn't find anything without running diagnostics on it...I didn't have them do this as it is quite costly and at that point I hadn't experienced the issue with losing acceleration/gas pedal functioning while driving down the road.
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I have a 2004 Passat GLS and I've noticed from time to time (and again tonight) that there's water on the floor on the passenger side in the back row. There is a vent under that floor mat so I suspect it has something to do with it, but beyond that I'm stumped. I've only noticed standing water once, and that was after a heavy downpour. But tonight the mat is pretty wet and we haven't had rain for a while. I just dropped a ton of dough on new coils and plugs so I'm hoping this isn't anything serious.
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I have "new to me" 2000 VW Passat GLX (station wagon). Intermittently at @ 30 mph it will make a thunk and momentarily "brake" as if it just hit a pot hole. I assume its transmission related, but what am I looking at to repair it?
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I'm a little bit stuck here. This happened last night, and the dealer is closed today. I have a 2008 Santa Fe SE. It stalled last night, and when I turned it back on, I got a check engine light, the ESC light, and the AWD transmission light blinking. When I go to accelerate, it will not go passed 2000 RPM, and it is driving very sluggish. Its not knocking, or making any other kind of sounds. The air conditioning does not work, but the fan blows uncooled air. It accelerates extremely slowly, even with the petal mashed.
I plan on taking it in tomorrow, but I'd like to know if there is some way to reset the computer. I tried disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes, but it didn't work.
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This is the second time that I have notice the car leaking just below the oil filter. The leak does not occur immediately after the oil change, rather after several thousand miles. This is the second time in a row this has occurred. Can the filter loosen to allow small leak? Could the mount be warped? Did not think anything of this first time it happened but strange after the second. It is not a lot of oil, just a drop or two overnight.
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I'm getting random misfires on all 5 cylinders on my 2013 2.5L with ~4200miles. Sometimes the CEL will stay on other times it just flashes and goes away. I've gone to multiple dealers and none of them has done anything but clear the codes because "we couldn't replicate the issue," or "It's just rev hang/drive by wire."
What are the known causes of a brand new car misfiring? And what should I have VW look at?
When I mentioned that our family has a 2007 Eos all three dealers were chomping at the bit for me to bring it in for recalls I didn't even know about. This really rubbed me the wrong way. I've got one car that I KNOW is malfunctioning that VW won't do any work on, but the other VW is volunteering to work on!
I've got another appointment set for tomorrow after I get off work. How to push the right buttons or say the right words?
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A year ago (to the day), my car (2006 Hyundai Sonata) died on me while I was driving it. My boyfriend came and gave me a jump. The car got home fine. The next morning, we went out to the car, and the battery had died, so we jumped the car again, and got to the battery place and bought a new battery. I was worried there was another issue with the car- but my boyfriend was all like "You are feeble woman who knows nothing about cars" (kidding, kidding) so I listened to him and drove the car off that afternoon. On my way home, car died again. So, this time, we got the car towed to a dealership to get checked out. Well, turns out the head gasket was leaking and there was oil in the alternator. SOOOO. The dealer replaced the head gasket for free because the car had a warranty on the engine, but we were SOL with the alternator. So, we bought an alternator from a friend, and had another friend install it for us.
Yesterday, I got out of work, and car wouldn't start. When my DF came to jump the car, he and I could clearly see the head gasket is leaking again and there is oil in the alternator. I have a couple questions that I need answered...
1.) What causes a leaky head gasket? My boyfriend said that either the engine block was warped or that the replacement they put in last year was faulty. Are there other ways?
2.) How the beep do you replace the alternator in the 2006 Hyundai? It is in an odd location and we don't have access to the person who did it for us last time, so I need to see if this is a job my boyfriend can do. He does work on his car all the time (an 87 BMW), but he's never done anything on this car besides change oil, etc.
A little bit about this car: We bought the car from a Hyundai dealer in June 2010. It belonged to one of the dealer investors, so it was in great condition. However, we think the car was in a front-end accident. When my boyfriend waxed the car awhile back, it was pretty obvious that the front bumper was replaced as well. The dealer refuses to give us any mechanical records about the car (will only give us verbal summary) ...
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About 3 weeks ago, I purchased a 2001 Accent GL 4dr 5spd from a friend of mine. A few days later, the CEL came on. I went to O'Reilly and got the code pulled, it was for a cam sensor input LOW. I replaced the sensor and was on my way.
Yesterday after starting the car for the first time for a few days (I wasn't driving because it needed a clutch), the light came on. Has it gone bad again or is something causing the signal to be low? Maybe a low output on the alternator or low battery? The interior lights dim slightly when the brake pedal is applied while the car is running.
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So over the last couple months every couple of weeks my car throws a couple codes:
17497 - Mixture Regulation; Bank 2; Range 1: Lean Limit Exceeded
P1089 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent - MIL ON
17559 - Long Term Fuel Trim Additive Air; Bank 1; Range 1: System too Lean
P1151 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
If I clear them things are fine for a week or two, then they return. I'm gonna check my intake, as I may not have a good seal on all the couplers (EIP CAI with the replacement for the accordian pipe). Otherwise I'm thinking injectors?
As to the noises, with the key turned to ACC ON but without turning over the engine I hear a steady ticking. It sounds like a mechanical clock, and it's coming from behind the brake fluid reservoir. During the VAGCOM autoscan the ticking noise speeds up while it scans the ABS system. There are no codes on the ABS, but I've never noticed this ticking sound there before. It it normal?
Lastly, after turning off the car I could hear a little motor. It's at the front, and after popping the hood I could hear what I assume was coolant flowing through the piping behind the radiator on the driver's side, however, the fans are not running. I assume if the coolant is flowing the car is in its cool down phase and the fans should be on at low speed. Since they aren't I'm assuming I've got the common fan issue. Does that sound right or is it normal for the coolant pump to be running without the fans?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with 90,300 miles. Last week check engine light came on and mechanic said it was P0440 and charcoal canister needed replacement. Did the repairs and 20 miles and two days later CEL is on again. Take it back to mechanic and codes this time are P0441 and P0446. I'm told I need a new gas cap, so it's replaced with new one from dealer. 15 miles later, CEL comes back on and I return to mechanic. This time it's reading all three codes, but they can't find anything wrong. The only parts not replaced are the vacuum seal valves, which mechanic says test as good. They reset lights and 15 miles later, the check engine light is back on. My mechanic is baffled. What the problem could be or what they should check? Car drives fine, but light coming on is annoying.
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Ran obd I I tool on my fiance's 2011 Camry. Threw codes C0365, C1330, and C1445. cleared the codes and the only one that is recurring is the C1330. ABS and traction control lights are illuminated on the dash.
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I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 90000 miles. Lat last year around Oct/Nov time frame, check engine light came on. I took my vehicle to a local Auto Zone store and they scanned the code and told me it was P0420 - bad catalytic converter.
I replaced the cat converter with an after market model, however after 3/4 months (after driving 2000 to 3000 miles), check engine light came on with the same code. The mechanic changed the cat converter and put a new (after market model). Again after 3/4 months (2000 to 3000 miles) check engine light came on again. And this time the mechanic replaced the cat converter and also oxygen sensor. Now after 4 months or so the check engine light is on the vehicle again.
The mechanic is now saying that the problem is not with the cat converter and he is saying there is a lot of abnormal deposit on the vehicle. When he scanned again he found another issue that read something like "high voltage" and this time the guy thought may be due to short circuit (per code) the fuel injector is sending high volume of fuel and this is causing excessive fuel to go into the cylinder and hence high volume of emission. I replaced the fuse box again and after another 100 miles or, the problem is reappearing.
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I bought a 2007 Toyota Matrix new, and it now has 41,800-something miles on it. At 38K miles the check engine light came on while I was on vacation out of state. The nearest Toyota dealer checked it out, told me the check engine light code was P0741 - problem with the torque converter - but they didn't see any obvious problem and the car drove fine for them and for me. They turned the light off but it went back on before very long. The car has now been to 2 different Toyota dealerships near my home because the check engine light keeps turning on. They also report seeing the same code, also seeing nothing obviously amiss,and tell me I need my transmission replaced. This seems preposterous to me for such a low mileage Toyota.
In December, when the check engine light went on again, I discovered it would turn off if I filled the car with gas. It still comes back on; if I either fill the car with gas, or simply open and close the gas cap, the check engine light will turn off after 3 - 4 trips with the car. What does the gas cap have to do with the torque converter?
What's really weird is that the light always comes on under the same conditions. Most of my driving is short trips, a couple of miles in town at around 30 mph. The light never comes on during "town" driving. My highway driving consists of trips of about 1 hour; parking for an hour or two; then returning home -- again, about an hour's drive. The check engine light always comes on when I'm doing highway driving on the trip home. I've clocked the mileage for the last 3 times the light came on. It came on after highway driving a total of 48, 51, and 48 miles, respectively.
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After replacing the HPOP a month or so ago, the bellows decided to let lose on the y-pipe. Which started my Turbo hunting and a P132b code.
This past week my 15 yr old and I replaced the up pipes with a BD Diesel kit. Which after my son redid his part of the job 4 times, we had it licked and running awesome with no codes and zero turbo hunting.
Fast forward to Sunday night coming home from my sisters 30 miles away. I jump on it to pass a slow moving vehicle or 3 and BOOOM! Lots of hissing and no boost on the gauge! Yep we didn't tighten that HAC clamp at the turbo enough.
Get the boot and clamp back on and head to the local parts store slowly to borrow a ratchet and socket. All we could muster from the state trooper was a pair of pliers.
Check the codes after we tighten the clamp and had a P132b. Cleared it and drove it home 25 minutes away and no code but the turbo is hunting. 85% down to 14%. So I reload the stock tune, double check all the clamps on the up pipe kit and pull the battery cables and turn the headlight switch to on. I go inside for an hour or so and go back out and hook up the cables.
I check the codes and the usual P603 is there. I clear it, start the truck let it run 10 mins and then take it for a ride. Pull up to a stop and the turbo goes into hunt mode! Drive it about a half hour and stop. Check codes and find the normal RGR code since I am deleted and the recurring P132b. I clear those and drive back home 35 minutes. I check the codes and nothing not even the P132B but the damn turbo is hunting again!
I check the wiring, and turbo connections and nothing! No leaks, errors or drips. I reload my custom tune and drive it. It hunts less but is still hunting! I am at a lose here! I had it running fine for 2 days. No issues until that clamp let the boot slip!
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When I push on the pedal Lamp starts blinking and engine works weird. What can it be and how to fix it?
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I got my AFS ballast replaced (dealer $480) and now the lights work, so no more worrying bout tickets! But sometimes the light won't turn on. Like 8/10 times it will but then it wont. The light is still blinking on the dash and now the lights won't level!
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I just changed my battery 2 months ago and all i heard this morning was CLICK CLICK CLICK and all the lights blinking on my dash. What would be the problem? Besides the battery being dead? It is not being charged i would say.
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I got up this morning to a relatively cold 16 degrees. I started my Passat 2.0T to let it warm up about 10 minutes before I left. I got in the car, and started to drive and noticed in the upper mfi display a blinking thermometer with wavy lines under that. so I figured it must be something coolant related. Having to get to work, I took it slow and steady, after all it was cold...
The temp gauge came up to normal, which is dead on in the center... not even a fluctuation. Got to work, shut off the car, counted to 10 and started it... no more flashing light... car sat all day, about 9 hours, and drove home... was fine the whole time...Was this a fluke, should I check the coolant, will any coolant do? And to think I've had 8 or so months without a problem. Hopefully just a reminder I am driving a VW.
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I've never had a car act like this before. It cuts out for a tenth of a second, and then comes right back. I drove it 20 miles yesterday. It seemed to do it more before the engine reached operating temperature, like once every quarter mile. Once on the interstate, it went down to once a mile, then once in three miles, but it never completely quit doing it. I tried jiggling the keys in the switch. It made no difference. It did not make a difference whether or not I was going up or down hill or on level ground. I had the cruise set for 65, and it held that speed well. I'd think if it were a fuel filter or pump issue it would sputter constantly. This is just a sudden hiccup, then right back to running perfectly.
3.8 L V-6, 126K miles.
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I have a 2007 2.0T, and the signal light on the driver's side mirror flashes instead of blinking. I have looked around and not been able to find any loose wires or ones that look damaged. I also noticed yesterday that the left rear signal has led's missing, and it looks like it shorted out. I am thinking the 2 are more than likely related.
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