I have real vibrations when braking. What could be the cause? I think its a warped rotor. Also.. What are your opinions on cross drilled rotors. I hear they are good with disapating heat but i heard they wear down break pads quickly.
View 5 RepliesStrange Vibrations From Engine (Possibly?) While Riding Brakes In Slow Traffic. I tried to search but didn't come up with much that was similar.
View 2 RepliesI am new to Hyundai. I just bought a barely used 2011 Elantra GL Sedan - Auto. I notice that the ride is absolutely terrible - especially the rear which has from what I understand torsion bar suspension. (Didn't we stop using those on WWII Jeeps) Anyway I digress.
I notice in city any pot hole is jarring in the front and hoppy in the back. On the highway I feel like the back end gets air any time I hit a moderate pump at speeds above 90kmh (55mph). I noticed what others have noticed too, slight fishtailing or rear vibrations when braking.
Is there an issue that I'm unaware of - is this normal or is there something broken/loose. I push on the rear like I would test a normal suspension and it doesn't bounce more than once but if I hit a bump while driving it bounces three or four times?
My climatronic/air conditioning just failed on me for no real reason that I can tell. It was working perfectly this morning.
Now, the system blows only warm air, and on the display where it *should* say the outside temperature, it displays "--0" and then the Celsius sign.
This is a 2002 GLX 4mo, if that makes a difference.
I noticed it today when I first started driving to work. The sound would be best described as if you were missing a big chunk of rubber from your tire and you heard the 'thumping' as the tire rotated. It happens when I go into left turns mostly. Sometimes when I go into right turns. And only once when I was driving straight this morning when the car was first started. I am not certain where the vibration is coming from, but it feels like it is the rear of the vehicle somewhere. What this might be? (I checked the tires, no missing chunks )
View 7 RepliesI have had my B7 for about 6 Months now and love the car except that the car sounds worse than my MK4 and the B6 that it replaced. I have solved most of the rattles and queaks and cracks but as soon as I fix them a week later I have 5 new ones. I have attempted to fix them using different sizes of felt pads after a few trips to the dealer and the fix kits did not work.
View 17 RepliesNoticing rattles, squeaks and/or buzzing vibrations?
I have a rattle from the rear driver's side, a vibration from the passenger-side dashboard and a squeak in or near the front passenger seat. I feel like I'm losing my mind!
Today while driving I heard a pop and than my car got extremely loud with increased vibrations. The noise is not terribly loud at idle but extremely loud while accelerating. I also noticed at idle it seems that nothing is blowing out the exhaust tips
My question is, if the flex pipe is covered under the extended emissions warranty and if is not covered by the warranty would a catless dp fix my problem?
Not long ago I fitted after-market rims to my 2006 Passat 2.0 FSI HighLine, I changed from 215/55/16 to 235/45/17 with Falken ZE912 tires, all new. The center hub of the Passat is 57.1(as far as my knowledge goes) and the wheel hub seem to be 66.6, the shop who installed my rims inserted a 57.1 to 67.1 poly-carbon hub rings which needed some force to fit into the wheel, the vibrations did not stop. All 4 wheel&tires were balances 2 times on one machine then a third time on a different machine just to be sure, still the same. I didn't preform a front alignment yet as i didn't believe it's needed, although right now ill try anything...
Anyway i then measured the rim hub diameter which seems to be 66.6. I bought a set of 57.1 to 66.6 poly-carbon rings, they also needed a bit of force to fit in the wheel, still there is no improvement and the car vibrate under acceleration. I would like to add at this point that i had no vibrations what so ever with the old rims and tires even though the tires were quite worn. I am thinking maybe i need the 57.1 to 66.1 size? Or perhaps i should use aluminum rings instead of plastic?
Is a size difference of 0.5 can make that much of a difference? I know an aluminum ring wont fit unless its the perfect size, and plastic are a bit more elastic meaning like in my case, they can fit in a smaller rim with a bit of force. Should I aim for a ring that fit perfectly without the need of applying force? Can it be that a 66.6 ring, fitted in a 66.1 rim is not eliminating the vibrations just because its off by a 0.5 mm and needed a bit of force getting inside?? I though that as long as the ring fits inside the wheel it will work but obviously its not..
So yesterday afternoon I did my driving thing. First stop I made I put it in reverse to pull out of the inverted parking ramp and had to apply gas to do so. And just got a nasty vibration coming out of the front end. A few times during my drive I would find an open lot to test reverse under load and get the exact same thing. I also noticed between 55-65 I would get slight vibration on the highways (Could just be balance since I'm on new tires). Well, I was thinking maybe a CV issue since reverse under load is where you typically feel that first, so I jacked her up this morning and cranked on the drive lines. Nothing seemed loose or sloppy and just got the usual clanking noise in the auto tranny when switching directions.
View 6 Replies2008 Passat 45k. No accidents. Towed twice on flatbeds due to bad fuel pump. Tires were rotated every 10k or so.
I'm wondering if there are any suspension (or wheel) issues that can lead to maybe tire wear and a loud oscillating noise. I had factory Goodyear Eagles 235/45-R17's that started to develop a very loud speed-dependent oscillating noise that definitely came from the tires, but I can't tell if it's one tire or more than one. I just had them replaced though I was not quite yet down to the wear indicators. My new Continentals are of course pretty quiet, but occasionally I think I hear very faint oscillations again on certain surfaces at high speed.
I'm worried that I might trash these new tires. I had to have an alignment/balance/rotation at about 30k due to minor steering vibrations at highway speeds. The noise started around 37k and got louder and louder. About this same time I had a flat tire that was immediately repaired; I noticed uneven wear on this flat tire which I attributed to the previous minor alignment/balance problem. I usually find out about any low pressures by the dash light, so I'm pretty sure my tire pressures are usually good. I rotated at 40k with a minor improvement that got bad again after about 1k.
The front end of my car shakes (sometimes, more often than not, but not always) while braking. It doesn't matter if I am braking hard or regular. I do not feel it while accelerating or cruising.
So, my thinking is rotors and pads wearing unevenly, warped, or something along these lines. I plan to pull the rotors off and look at them this evening.
I am just looking at if there are any other opinions or options that I should be checking into to cause this type of thing to happen.
The whole front suspension was replaced a couple months ago, so all should be well there but will look it over while I have the wheels off.
I did F&R brakes (Adam's rotors and hawk & akebono ceramic pads) on my B6 4mo about a month ago. Ever since changing the brakes, there is a clunking noise, when going over bumps, coming from the right side, possible right front. The sound consistently goes away when I press on the brakes. It's a metal on metal clunk that you can feel and hear. Not terribly loud, but pretty annoying. What could be the cause?
View 2 RepliesHere's an interesting problem our B5 (2001 1.8T) has experienced recently -- When backing up and then applying the brakes there's very little effective braking occurring, sometimes to the point of the pedal traveling almost to the floor. I've recently had the brake pads and rotors checked -- all rotors are OK and the front pads are "almost new" condition. The rear pads were showing significant wear and I had those replaced, but we're still seeing the same problem.
I can also tell that braking action driving forward feels less than optimal, although not nearly as troubling as when attempting to stop in reverse. I'm suspicious of a problem with the vacuum assist unit, either a bad hose or possibly a defect in the boost unit itself. Can the VW shop definitively test the appropriate vacuum line(s) to the booster and the booster unit itself for a problem?
Is it normal if im in trying to brake for a stop light and its a little rough? I think its because the car is downshifting hard or warped rotors?. I have 77k on it should i do a tranny oil change? If so where can i get one? jiffy? stealership? Also i get the code P0299 with is underboost. Should i replace anything or just check tubes?
View 11 RepliesSo my 4motion downshifts going downhill while braking...it's annoying as hell! My DSG used to do the same thing but being a faster tranny it was actually NOT annoying... Is there a way to reflash the tranny software? Maybe with an older code because my 06 didn't do this but my 08 does...
View 5 RepliesMy 03 Passat is going in for 40k service this week. I think they're going to tell me I need new brakes and rotors (felt some pretty heavy vibration during braking in the Tennessee hills). I was thinking of changing the front brakes myself. My mechanical abilities are modest, but I've done the brakes on my 94 Ford Ranger before.
1. Is this an easy task?
2. What parts will be needed?
Just today, driving around, and the car makes a clunk when braking. Not when you first start braking, but when it's about to come to a stop. It doesn't do it any other way. Not in reverse, or high-speed panic stops.
The hardest thing is it doesn't happen all the time. I've tried checking for CV clicking, control arms, ball joints, tie rods, all bushings around, motor mounts, you name it. Everything is tight and good.
I've read about some VW's having door pin issues causing the clunk, but it sounds like it comes from the dead center of the car, like right under the e-brake, but I could be wrong.
About a month ago I bought a 2013 Passat TDI SE (with the automatic transmission) and have noticed that if you let off the accelerator in order to coast up to a stop light, the car will gradually decrease speed at a seemingly steady rate right up until about 15 MPH. Then you get an aggressive engine braking sensation and it feels like the car is about to come to a complete stop. After it drags down to about 10 MPH the braking feel will "release" and the car will lunge forward.
Is this normal? I have my re-check scheduled for this Saturday so I had planned to ask about it.
Have to braked hard enough for ABS to be activated, (like for a red light you weren't paying attention to) and the hazard flashers activate?
View 24 RepliesMy 06 2.0t has 73k on it. but i noticed at around 60k that when I brake, almost to the point where I'm stopping (like at a light) the car jerks or grabs...kinda like the tranny is catching or the brakes are grabbing. Twice I've asked vw to check and twice they've said they can't find anything wrong.
Warranty runs out at 75k, so I think I'm going to take it to AAMCO to have them check the tranny and see what they say.