Passat (B5) :: Rattle / Rumble And Vibration When Engine Is At About 1200 RPM
Sep 8, 2009
I bought a 2005 wagon from a local dealer with 21K miles, the 1.8T, an automatic and 4mo. It was certified and still has 2 yrs and 24K miles on the warranty.
Anyway, I there is a rattle/rumble/vibration anytime the engine is at about 1200 RPM. I usually happens on small inclines, and doesn't matter if you are decelerating through 1200 or accelerating through it is makes the noise. I can get it to sustain itself if i keep it at 1200 on the gas or on the brake.
I am hoping it is just a heat shield that rattles at the certain frequency the engine makes at 1200, but I don't know. It is kind of right at that point where the transmission engages and disengages, torque converter?
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I have a 2001 Passat GLS 1.8T Tip 34500 miles... Loose heat shields. Well, I couldn't find anything to fix, so I brought it to the dealer. They said that this was common on 2001 Passats with about 30k miles. All stock.
These were the symptoms that the car was exhibiting: At first it was a minor rattle that occurred at 1200-1400 rpm.......only when the engine was warm, and only when I was in drive. (I could not reproduce it in neutral)...
A few weeks later, it the engine rattled upon startup for half a second. I assumed that this was just the heat shield issue getting worse. Dealer says that I have a bad cam tensioner, and that they will replace it under warranty. However, I had to reschedule the repair for this week because they couldn't fit the 5 hour job in on Saturday.
He said that there is a spring backup for the hydraulic tensioner, but to get it fixed soon. Obviously I was going to have it fixed ASAP. What this cam tensioner does? Isn't there a chain that connects timing belt to cam shaft? Why does this need a tensioner? Does it change in tension?
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When I'm idling and I rev the engine to exactly 1200 rpm i can feel an extra vibration coming from the engine. If i hold it at this rpm it will continue on. now this is not a violent vibration but more so of a buzz i can feel that travels to my steering wheel as well. what could it be ?
Another question is when i travel up my driveway and i hit the sloped curb at a angle i can hear a specific "clunk" sound coming from around the drivers foot well area what could this be? perhaps my axle going bad? I also heard it when I was reversing out of my parking space while turning.
I am new to this car and trying to make sure I'm doing everything i can to put it into good shape.
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I am experiencing a slight rumble-strip-like vibration/noise when veering to the right. There is no noticeable vibration when driving straight or to the right - sounds like it's coming from the front. I thought it was my tires but had them rotated with same symptoms/ I first noticed this shortly after I had them rotated in July. So it's probably front suspension.
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Driving home from work yesterday I noticed my car started having the vibration on and off during my commute. Traffic most of the time so I could feel it just reving the car up a bit. It happens going up from 600-1200 and back down I can feel it too.
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I have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
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VW deciding to remove the engine covers on later build Tregs. Various reasons have been sighted (heat, rattles, hassle for service tech, psychology to have dealer service it). Now I've seen some pics people have posted of their new V10's and voila, the covers have returned.
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My wife's 2011 Gti (31k miles, dsg) has developed a bad rattle vibration at idle. It goes away when you press on the gas. At first first I thought it was just a bit of plastic rattling in the wheel well or engine bay, but now I'm suspecting the engine. It's coming from the drivers side and it sounds like the 'TSI rattle' turned up to 11. It's intermittent, but worse when it's cold.
Engine mount? Chain guides going going bad? I will try to get a video of the sound today.
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I was going to put new ball joints in but wimped out and had my mechanic do them. I'm too old to be doing that kind of crap. I just replaced the fuel pump with the correct one. That's enough under truck time for a while. 91,000 miles on the originals, stopped the rumble / rattle when I hit bumps in the front end. Getting the alignment Tuesday. Guess I got my money's worth out of them. Still has original brake pads too. Thinking of doing an upgrade to the brakes, drilled and slotted, I tow an RV and need it to protect the idiots that pull out in front of me. 2001, V10, CC ......
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I 've been experiencing a vibration, or rumble in my 2006 Camry. It would happen around 40-45mph or when decelerating. Once it got into top gear it would go away. Two weeks ago I turned off the overdrive and the problem stopped. Now, I keep it off in the city and turn it back when on the highway.
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Like the title says. All of a sudden when I put the car in reverse I got a rumble and the car vibrates some.
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I have a 2000 f250 crew cab short bed 7.3 on a 6inch bds lift and 37 inch tires. When I accelerate pretty much any load above 1200 rpms I can feel a vibration, kinda feels like it may be coming from the front left but I'm not sure. I have heard that a wheel bearing going out can cause this, would this maybe be what's causing it?
I thought wheel bearing because it kind of sounds like there's a howl when decelerating, probably when accelerating as well but the trucks too loud and I can't hear it. or also have heard motor mount gone bad, I've also heard ujoints but the ujoints were done this summer. the front ujoint is bad but the front driveshaft shouldn't be turning when out of 4x4 and hubs unlocked.
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I have a 2007 Sonata, 2.4L 4cyl. and it is making some weird noise as of late. I have done some research and from what I have read it seems like it may be a bad engine mount. One thing to note is that the noise really only happens when the car is cold and hasn't warmed up yet or on a cold day.
Basically the best description is that the noise is a high-pitched rattle/vibration noise. The noise seems to match the vibrations of the engine but doesn't seem to get more intense if I rev the engine. The noise does get quieter if I put it in neutral but it is still there. The noise also happens even if the car is parked and off, and I do something like shut the door or trunk. I haven't gotten a chance to get in there and look under the hood myself to try...
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I am still getting used to my new Prius, just have a little over 700 miles on it. I recently noticed something very strange with the car - if I am in "Ready" with ICE off, and I put it in drive and release the brakes, but do not press the accelerator, the car will slowly move forward, just like a regular auto transmission. After about 1 second the speed will reach about 2 mph and I can feel a very small rumble in the cabin and a very light vibration on the steering wheel. It sounds like a very low frequency bass, and it lasts for less than a second.
It goes away and the car continues to accelerate up to about 5mph (the accelerator is still not pressed). This sound is almost unnoticeable, and it does not happen if I release the brake and immediately press the accelerator, it only happens while creeping forward very slowly. I was able to make this sound/vibration last longer by "riding" the breaks and keeping the speed around 1-2 mph, it is very faint and I have really listen to it. To me I believe it is caused by some resonance/harmonics in MG2 turning at extremely low RPM, at least it "feels" somewhat "electric"...
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I have a 2004 Mustang convertible V6 auto with 140K miles. The car has a rumble-strip like vibration that will come and go at any speed. But seems to be most noticeable at highway speeds when the car hits a ruff spot in the road. It will rumble for a short while the gradually go away. It can be more pronounced sometimes than other times.
The car did hit a curb with the right side front tire, enough so that the tire had to be replaced and did scuff up the wheel pretty good also. Had the one tire replaced, all tires balanced and rotated. Front-end alignment done.
Engine and transmission both seem to operate smoothly. New plugs, wires and throttle body cleaned. New brakes all four. I have noticed the ball joint on the front right does have a small amount of play?
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I have 1997 Mazda 626 I4 5 speed manual transmission with 140k on it.
All of a sudden I am getting a horrible reoccurring vibration and noise that sounds like I'm driving on a rumble stripe at about 60MPH coming from the front end when accelerating.
It speeds up as I accelerate.If I push down my clutch or let off the gas it goes away immediately. While turning right it will go away immediately until I straiten it back out.It happens in any gear at any speed in any weather although it seems more likely to happen when everything is cold.It isn't always there and there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to when it happens or clears up.
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My 2001 Outback has developed a problem in the last few days. When I move the car from a dead stop, I go through a brief period of heavy vibration coming from the back of the car, exactly as if I am running over a rumble strip. It occurs as I am accelerating away from the stop just after the clutch is totally let out. Once I get to a high-enough velocity, I no longer feel it. However, if I maintain a very low velocity I can feel some vibration but not quite as pronounced as it was coming from a dead stop.
I have been able to make this happen in 1st and 2nd gear, I have not tried in 3rd, 4th and 5th. It does not happen in reverse. I tested the clutch by putting the car up against the back wall of my garage, revving the engine and putting the car into 4th and 5th gear and the car stalled, as it should. The clutch did not slip. This clutch has about 60,000 miles on it. The previous clutch was replaced at about 85,000 miles. The problem has been getting worse steadily during a just completed a 700 mile holiday round trip. Could this be the clutch? Could it be something in the transmission?
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Just had front Rotors and 4 brake pads replaced. Afterward, I noticed after the car has been in motion for a few minutes, a low rumble sound and vibration occurs randomly and usually at low RPM 1500-2500. Vehicle is a 2009 Highlander 4 cyl at 72000 miles.
Toyota service dealer ran diagnostic check and could not find anything.
Second opinion - mechanic swears it's coming from transmission drum and beginning of trans going.
Third opinion- shocks are starting to go and likely root cause on the sound/sensation.
Fourth opinion, wheel alignment or warped rotor likely the cause.
Performed wheel alignment, slight improvement but rumble is still evident. One replaced rotor has a pronounced groove on exterior. Serviceman suggested we won the lottery and the groove came from a rock from the street hitting the rotor.
Finally, it was determined we need to replace intermediate drive shaft due to knocking sound when turning the steering wheel. Not likely related to the low rumble.
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So I'm at my wits end trying to locate (and fix) a loud, high frequency rattle noise inside the engine compartment.
It can be heard when applying the gas pedal a certain amount. In other words, I can "find" the noise and maintain it at a certain rpm.
The noise is coming from the back of the engine near the firewall. It feels and sounds like it's coming from the throttle body plate and vibrating the gas pedal. I cleaned the plate and it isn't loose.
The issue doesn't seem to be affecting engine performance.
The sound is noticeable while driving (under load). When in park, I can find an rpm where the throttle body seems to take a heavy wave of vibration from the engine and hum (but not nearly as loud as while driving). Issue existed before I put on new motor mounts, and still persists after replacing all 4 (although the vibration and noise are reduced).
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I recently bought a 2004 Mustang convertible V6 auto with 180K miles to be my daughter's first car. The car has a driveability issue. It has a "rumble-strip" like vibration at speeds between 35-55 mph. This is when accelerating or decelerating. If I slip the car in neutral when driving the vibration is gone. Here is what I have done: new plugs, wires, coil. New u-joints. Front end needed a new tie rod end on right side, new transmission filter and fluid (only replacing lost pan fluid). Another thing wrong with the car (possibly related?) is that the ABS & traction control lights are stuck on indicating a system failure with the ABS.
Note that when replacing the ujoints I noted a couple of things:1- there is SOME amount of play at the transmission tailshaft bushing. It seemed excessive to me, but a local transmission shop told me that if it is not leaking fluid that it is not a problem. I did not gage the movement, but it was close to 1/16".2 - The other thing I noticed is that the universal joint for the rear yoke was a little bit stiff, meaning that it did not move as easily as I would have thought that it should. This was the case with both the old rear u-joint and the new, This indicates to me that the pinion trunnion ears are not perfectly aligned, but not sure what I should expect.
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1992 Chevy Cavalier, about 120,000 miles. A few months ago my car has started to rumble and vibrate while idling in drive. It only occurs while I'm in drive and completely stopped. If I change to neutral or park, it immediately goes away. Also, if I'm in drive, keep my foot on the brake and give it a little gas, the vibration goes away. I've changed the spark plugs, had the throttle body cleaned (not very thoroughly) and my mechanic said my engine mounts look fine and to not worry too much about it. Is this a problem I can ignore as an inconvenience or should I put more effort into getting this fixed?
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