I'm about to leave on a road trip. I noticed last trip, the car pulled to the right. Can that be improved by tire pressure? If so, would I need more front driver or passenger side and/or rear tires?
View 3 RepliesBeen using the pressure listed on the door jamb which is 29psi since I own the car. But recently I noticed the tires seem to be wearing on the outside part of the tread. I believe this is usually an under- inflation symptom. Am I right to be using 29 psi as the proper amount or should it be higher? The tire says MAX inflation is 44 lbs. which I know would be way over what it should be.
View 9 RepliesHow to re-set the tire inflation indicator. I just had the tires rotated and properly inflated but the light is still on.
View 1 RepliesThe temperature has dropped to low single digits.
My RC F tire inflation has dropped to 26 -27 lbs. due to the extreme cold, after it has been outside for a while.
After driving for a while the tires heat up and the pressure goes up, returning to normal range.
From the day I got my '04 Treg, the tire inflation indicator on the dash has been a problem. For the first year or so, whenever it would indicate a tire inflation problem I would scroll the thumb wheel and get the MFI window with the diagram of the car and indicator as to which tire was low or the problem and would adjust till the indicator went off. Then I guess I got lazy and I noticed I could just go to "reset" in the same window and hold the thumb wheel down and the treg would then accept whatever the pressures happens to be as the new "standard". Not a good idea, I know.
Now here is my problem. Somehow, and much to my eternal consternation, I can no longer get the window in MFI that has tire inflation levels. That's right, it seems to be gone. I get "units" and "lights" and "comfort" and "speed warning" and "time" but no tire inflation category. What could have happened to it? I suppose that while get oil changes at the dealership they may, without my knowing, have reprogrammed my computer but I don't think the change coincided with any service. I've looked in the manual and it's useless on the subject. How I can re-attain the tire inflation window short of taking into the dealership for re-programming?
I have a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT using the Futura GLS 225/70/R15 tires. The vehicle decal in the driver side door listed the recommended tire pressure to be 30 PSI. I have tried to maintain religiously along with proper balance and alignment. However, I've always had the experience of the tires wearing out more along the middle which seemed to indicate over inflation. The sections on either side of the center line seemed to wear out normally. For this reason I've had to turn in the tire prematurely as they become unsafe. These tires were made by Coopers Tire and distributed by Pep Boys. Have i been using poor quality tires all along? Do I need to lower my tire pressure below the 30 PSI recommended? If I do that wouldn't I be risking overheating and/or affecting my gas mileage?
View 13 RepliesDoes your tire inflation psi reading ever randomly display dashes (-----) for a brief minute or so when first starting the engine before actually displaying the psi reading? I've had this happen a couple of times for no apparent reason that would prevent normal TPMS signal operation, but within a minute the dashes are replaced with the actual psi reading. I'm just wondering if this is a somewhat normal event to have happen from time-to-time.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2014 Honda CR-V with two possibly related problems.
1. The tire inflation light comes on often even though the pressure is just fine.
2. The ABS brakes don't seem to be working correctly.
Last winter, they seemed to engage much too easily. As soon as I touched the brake pedal, it begins to chatter. I've had ABS brakes before, of course. The ABS brake light has not come on.The kicker is that I think the two problems might be related. As I understand it, the tire pressure light comes on if one wheel spins faster than its partner - say if one of the ABS sensors on one of the wheels was defective.I've had it to the dealer, but they won't even look since the ABS light doesn't come on. They claim that if there was a problem, the light would come on.Frankly, the vehicle feels unsafe on slightly slippery roads.
Just had new tire installed and now noticing that the original stem cap was not used. Alarm is not lit, but wondering if I should try to retrieve the original one, since we notified the tire shop that afternoon......or purchase a new one.
View 5 RepliesThe car is pulling to the right. I did the alignment at two places including the dealer. The rear wheel toe is not aligned, but the dealer said it is normal because the car was lifted when the did the alignment. When they put it down, it will become out of spec. Is that true?
I tried to swap the front tire at firestone. it was pullin to the left after swapping the front tire, but firestone said it is because the tire is directional tire, so the tire has no problem. They tried to swtich the front to the rear on each side and the car is always pulling to the right. So my question is: if the tire is bad, even if it is at the rear, will it still cause the pull? They say it can be the steering wheel computer was not reset by the dealer after alignment.
It's a 2004 Honda LX... We bought a car that had previously been damaged to the right rear. They had fixed it up and all. When I got it, the car was already pulling left so I eventually took it to get an alignment.
After the alignment the technician told me that it still might pull because of how the tires were worn - and it still pulled left.
This past Saturday I decided to get a lot done: 4 new tires, an alignment, break pads changed, and the rotors were resurfaced.
I tested the alignment on the freeway and local flat roads and it still pulls left.
I'm thinking this problem still has to do with the previous damage, which parts could be causing it so I can pitch it to the shop I'll be taking it to?
Had my tires rotated yesterday and now the car is pulling noticeably left. On a flat road, if I let go of the wheel I change lanes in about 3 to 4 seconds depending on speed. Also, the faster I am going, the worse the pull feels. Before the rotation, the car would pull very slightly to the right sometimes but only enough for me to wonder if it was pulling or if it was my imagination.
One other detail, the tire that is now on the left front is newer than the others due to a pothole eating the last one. It is the same hankook tire in type and size. Just with less miles on it. It was previously on the front right. I've seen the threads on the pulling issue and the 18 step TSB and all of that but nothing about rotation or the pulling following a specific wheel or tire. Could the rolling resistance of a newer tire really cause that much of a pull?
My issue is I am getting ready to leave for a road trip and can't get in for an alignment or for someone to go through the whole TSB. I think I might switch the 2 front wheels.
I just had the tie rods replaced and a front end alignment on my VW Golf. The tires that were on the front were moved to the back because of some wear on the inside edge. The tires currently on the front look brand new, but the car pulls to the right more than it did before I had any of the work done. The place where I got the work done told me I would need to replace the two tires with wear but they are still in mostly good condition. They are telling me now the pulling is because the tires on the rear have wear. Can wear on rear tires really cause my car to pull so significantly to the right? The tires are only two years old. I do not want to replace them yet. The car front wheel drive.
View 2 RepliesRight Front Tire has excessive wear on Right INSIDE and car was pulling to the left. I rotated (or is it revolved?) my tires, and now the pulling has stopped......
OPINION: Bad tire that just wore poorly? Slight alignment issue that caused tire wear that then caused car pull? Wheel bearing issue causing tire wear? Or something else?
My inflation light wont reset even though I've tried and my speed is off after i install a set of 18's..235/35/18 front... 255/35/18 rear... Is there a way i can fix this?
View 11 RepliesOk so my car is 5 speed and 2.8 30v V6, I bought an Advance auto parts Axle about a year ago and it has already stopped performing as new. Its clicking and yadayda my car is pulling left with severe shakes sometimes and I need to know what a quality part is. As I look through the ECS website i see OEM at $500, if i had to buy those, i may have to let the car go. And the other brands I've never heard of before so I am hesitant to buy now, and don't want to spend the money only to have to replace in a year again.
View 6 RepliesI took my Passat to a VW dealer this weekend for an alignment. I could tell the car was pulling slightly to the right. Later that day, I received a call from the dealer that sub-frame needed to be replaced because they could not align the car. I asked if the sub-frame or any other component was bent because I don't recall hitting anything hitting anything could cause this kind of damage.
The dealer said that there was nothing bent but he could not align the car and I need to replace the sub-frame. I told him I just wanted to pick up the car and take it to another shop. I then received a call half hour later that the front right wheel was pushed back further than the left one and they will try to adjust it. I am not sure what is normally involved in VW alignment but I believe that I am getting poor advice from this dealer. Likewise, I am not sure if some inexperience weekend mechanic who did not know a lot of alignments and just wanted to throw parts at the car?
I've noticed that in my B6, the locks don't seem to auto-lock when pulling away at 15km/hr just as the locks on my old B5 did. When the lights are on, the icons on the locks are red, yet when I manually lock the doors, ie. when I push the lock button, all the locks on all the doors have their locked icons turn yellow.
Does this mean the doors don't auto lock at a certain speed? If not, can I VAGCOM them to do this?
Also, on my euro-switch, I've done a DBL delete, but now the switch is like this:
Position 0 - DRL delete, no lights
Position 1 - Headlights, running lights and dash lights
Position 2 - Running lights and dash lights only
Position 3 - Headlights, running lights and dash lights (just like position 1)
I have an early production 2008 2.0T 6MT. The car has just over 2000 miles on the clock. I noticed that early in the morning, when it's cold, pulling out of my driveway, I hear a clunk from the front end. It doesn't always happen. Also, on the highway, the car feels like it wanders left and right, certainly more than my old B5.5 did, and in general it pulls to the left and the steering wheel sits slightly to the right. I found the following TSB on this site: [URL] .... My question is, this TSB doesn't mention anywhere that an alignment should be performed as part of the service. Should that be done? I'm going to take it to the dealer tomorrow.
View 4 RepliesI'd like to turn off my drl's.....getting new front bulbs and going to install some led's to use as drl's. Up to now, I've only read about using VAG-COM to turn off. I just came across a YouTube demo about turning off drl's by pulling out switch on dash, disconnecting switch from connector and bending down a prong inside the connector. Sounds and looks simple. I haven't seen this method written up on Vortex before....
View 3 RepliesI noticed the first time drove it on the highway since I bought it last week, the steering wheel finds its home a couple of degrees left of center. It tracks perfectly with no pull dragging it off to either side.
After searching, it looks as if it isn't uncommon for the toe to be set while neglecting to lock the steering wheel down at its center position. And it's a simple tie rod adjustment.