So the two windows on the passenger side have fallen and can't get up. These regulators you gotta buy to fix the problem cost a ton, and just as much to have installed. Why on earth can you not buy the little plastic brackets to fix the problem instead of the whole regulator? If there IS a way to buy these brackets, it would be keen to know...
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 VW Passat (V6) is acting up. My power window/locks on the front passenger side aren't working. All the other doors and windows are fine, but the dealership wants to charge a lovely $1000 for "window modules"...
View 16 RepliesI'm having some problems with the power windows and locks. The passenger side window only works when it wants to. The power lock on the same door will not lock unless I push it down. And the lights that are on the switches don't work.
View 4 RepliesThe window actuator/motor is running and going up and down but the window isn't. I am thinking the clip/hardware that attaches the window to the track has broken. My issue is getting to it. Ive had the door panel off but cant figure out getting to the area.
View 1 RepliesAs the title says, I have an intermittent issue with the power window in the driver's door. It always works, with the exception of when it gets really damp during the night. In that case when I get in the truck first thing, the window will go down, but not always up the first few tries.
View 1 RepliesMy passenger side power window does not work from the drivers side control, but works from the passenger control. I replaced the master switch on the driver side and it still does not work. I have checked the fuses--Side, below and under the hood and have even found inline fuses below--all were good. Could the dealer have to program my new switch? I do not have child safety locks.
View 2 RepliesSo last night I go to pick up my daughter and the doors are unlocked but her door won't open. I try from the outside and no luck. I get in the back on the driver's side and the lock button is on. I open the door with some difficulty and it opens. It's been fine since.
Today I tried to open that window and the window wouldn't open from my console or from the rear passenger side switch.
My buddy just picked up a 2007 passat 2.0t. Upon bringing it home and locking it we noticed the horn didn't beep indicating an active alarm. I discovered the rear passenger door wasn't locking, and when opening it, even though the alarm was activated, the alarm didn't go off. The door unlock/lock switch as well as the window switch both aren't working. Can't open the window from the driver's door switch either.
I'm guessing it's probably something to do with the power to the door since it's completely unresponsive. Where would we be able to check if power is going to the door? Also, since the alarm doesn't go off when opened is there a sensor somewhere that says when the door is open and or locked?
At the 150K mile mark electromechanical components are starting to fail (Nav DVD reader, CD changer, 2 starters (they seem good for only ~70K miles), brake switch, etc.) which is probably reasonable to expect, even in a non-humid climate. Recently, the controls for the passenger side window stopped working. Some details:
- Driver's side window control works to control driver's side window
- Passenger side window switch LEDs are not lit on either door
- Passenger side window rolls up and down when top is changed to up or down position
Given that the motor is proven good by the fact that the window goes up and down with no problems when the top's position is changed, I'm inclined to think that there is probably an issue with the "COMPUTER MPX DOOR" component in the passenger door.
I have a 2004 Jeep Cherokee and the passenger window recently popped open. Something is wrong with the power windows (I can't shut it either automatically, or manually).
View 1 RepliesFixing issues with my truck. I just ordered some latex surgical tubing and am getting ready to fix the rattling noise in my rear door by using the Epic's Door Seal Mod. Hopefully this will take care of that issue.
One more annoying noise though. Has there been any fixes to the buzzing window noise that is coming from the front passenger side. If the wind is blowing right and I'm running over 50mph, at times get a loud buzzing noise and really bugs me. Something is vibrating and at first i thought i had a speaker going out but found out that wasn't it.
I've called my dealer and informed them of this and asked if they've heard of this but of course they haven't and this usually means the won't do anything besides look for recalls or something. I have the noise recorded and scheduled an appointment with my Ford Dealer but again, they won't do anything most likely.
The driver's window suddenly, and without warning, collapsed and fell into the door while driving. Fortunately, it didn't shatter.
I pulled the cover and found that the lift cable ball for the fwd track had apparently come out of its receptacle allowing the window to free fall. I hate to just reinstall it as I fear it will happen again and shatter the window.
I heard that possibly Ford has redesigned the cable bracket or some part of the system so that the cable ball can't come loose. Need to know anything about a redesigned bracket or a good way to secure the cable ball? This thing is very difficult to reach and work on, especially for a guy with fat arms!
It looks like I am going to have to replace my front driver's side power window regulator soon - it is making a bad sound when I power the window down and also the window glass seems to be loose and clunking when I close the door with the window partially or all the way down. These may be two separate issues. I think the motor itself is fine.
In looking at replacement window regulators I see two options. The lower cost option ($50-70) is to just by the regulator cable/pulley/gear assembly.
Like this: [URL]
But I also see options to buy that assembly pre-installed on the metal door plate that it attaches to: [URL]
So, my question is, once I have the door apart and the glass out, is it relatively easy to install a new cable/pulley/gear regulator assembly, or would I be better off buying a pre-installed regulator on a new metal plate?
I know how to take the door apart as I have done this before to change out the door lock/latch module.
Ok so here's the deal.. A few weeks back I started to notice my passenger side window started to roll slower than the driver side, not by much but its pretty obvious enough every time you either roll the window down or up.. I made an appointment with a VW service center to have them look at it but they said they can't do anything about it .. Is this true ..? The service guy told me that their would be no way to make the motor of the window go any faster or slower.. However I'm back here again due to some clunking/ticking noise every time I roll my pax side window which develop during their first assessment.. So they ordered me a new window regulator which is getting put in now.. The main and initial problem as to why I made an appointment in the first place was for VW service center to fix my pax side window rolling a bit slowly. Now since they are replacing the regulator of my pax side window I asked the service guy whether this would fix the problem of the window rolling slower compare to the driver side and he bluntly said no.. "we cannot make the motor of the window go slower or faster".. Is their any way to fix the rate of the window to go up or down..?
View 6 RepliesPassenger side window not operable from drivers side anymore, with the respective button. However, the windows does work when I try from the passenger side.
View 10 RepliesI have a 95 Chevy G30 van. The power windows, power locks, and power mirrors stopped working when I installed an electronic trailer brake controller. I disconnected the controller. The circuit breakers are fine. Where do I look next?
View 2 RepliesReplaced the battery on my 07 the other day, and subsequently discovered my passenger side power window would not open or close from driver side control switch. Initially thought the worse of course, that I needed a new motor for the passenger side window. Then I tried the passenger side window switch and the window worked fine.
So now, I think that the switch for the passenger side window (on the driver's side) is bad, and I will need to replace the whole switch control module. Did a search and found the root cause and solution to the problem. Apparently, after replacing a battery, I needed to RESET the passenger side switch from the passenger side, by HOLDING the switch approx. 3 seconds after raising and lowering the window two times.
Awhile back I did get my battery replaced and I did reset my windows so they could be used from the driver side panel. As of now, I can roll down all of them from the driver side except for the passenger side rear (window diagonal from driver). The window does roll down from the door itself so the window isn't broken. The light on the driver window switch is lit green, not blinking. However, the light on the window switch on the passenger door is NOT lit and not blinking either. And yes, I did make sure the window lock was not on.
Could the switch, either passenger or driver door, be bad? Should the battery be disconnected and reconnected??
The passenger side low beam failure alarm come on about 20 seconds after starting the car. It goes out after about 10 seconds; then alarms again after 10 more seconds; it goes out and then finally alarms after another 10 seconds and stays alarmed until the car is turned off.
Looking at the light from the front of the car, it goes on and off as described above. However when it is on the light is very bright. This suggests to me a loose connection or maybe a a loose fuse. That is, unless this is the way those bulbs go out. It seems strange because the bulbs in my other cars did not behave like this. They were either out or not, never in between.
The only thing that has been done to this car was that the tires were balanced about five days ago. The VW place did not do a good job at balancing the tires when they rotated them. What is going on in my car?
I know about the need for resetting the power windows after a battery reset. I have one window, the rear passenger side door, that does not work from the master switch. It does work at the door itself, but the green LED is NOT illuminated, or blinking. When I try to roll the window down on the first press, there is no response, but the LED illuminates solid. At the second press, the window works. When I attempt the reset procedure on the window (press and hold the one touch down after the window closes, then repeat the procedure going up. However, when I do this, the instructions say that the light will be blinking, and you should hold it until it is solid. Mine is solid when I am holding the switch, then after about 10 seconds, the light goes out and does not illuminate again.
View 3 RepliesMy 2006 V6 has about 115k miles. I pulled up and parked the other day and with the car still running, heard a loud "bang" under the right passenger side, and then the compressor wouldn't stop, even with the keys out of the ignition...it was still running an hour later when the flatbed took her away to the dealer.
The car was rear-ended 4 years ago and the back hatch/glass, which operates from the air suspension system, hasn't been able to hold itself up in several years. So there probably really is a real problem with the air system.
Here are questions initial questions I have.
1. From what I've read, it is common that a leak elsewhere in the system caused the compressor to eventually fail. The dealer is telling me that the compressor "blew apart inside" and that it needs to be replaced. Is this reasonable given that the compressor was still audibly operating an hour later?
2. The dealer is telling me that they cannot troubleshoot the rest of the air suspension system without me buying the compressor first. Is this a reasonable approach and level of competence? The service went on to say "We don't see many of these." Should I be worry? I am also concerned that I've read stories about dealer service departments who didn't know/didn't offer up that components of the suspension system can be replaced without the whole, very expensive unit.
3. The SUV was in the dealer 3 days prior for a new drive shaft and some electrical repair in the headlight which included the fuses blowing several times. Could there be any connection or does this sound like coincidence? Any thing I should ask them to protect my interests.