I got into my car about 5 minutes ago and while driving i noticed a ample amount of power loss. I would go half throttle and my rmp's would go up by my speed seemed lacking even full on it it seemed to be lagging and was a slow climb to 60. Could it be my turbo not putting out or something more serious. Its a 99 1.8t ....
View 10 RepliesI have a 2001 Elantra GLS 5spd with about 175k. Recently it started driving very sluggish. Under any more than minimal throttle during acceleration or load/resistance (i.e. climbing a hill), it bogs down and will decelerate. No check engine light, no codes, etc. I have replaced the TPS, catalytic converter, Spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, fuel pump, strainer, and fuel pressure regulator. Without any codes, I am at a dead end. I also unplugged the MAP and threw the code for it so I know it is functioning.
View 3 RepliesI got a quick question about limp mode. I know this has prolly been covered a few times but I couldn't find anything too similar. Well, to start out my car cannot boost past 3lbs. If i turn the car off and take the terminals off the battery and let it reset for a while, it goes back to normal for a while. After a few times driving it, limp mode comes back on.
The first time this happened, the check engine light came on also. But once I reset the battery it turned off and went back to normal. But it never stays away for good, limp mode always ends up coming back...
so i was driving the vw and the car starts surging like its in limp mode but no cel! so i stopped and checked my engine bay to see if maybe my intercooler piping came loose but nothing! so i shut it off for about 5 seconds and turned it back on and it threw a cel! the whole time i was driving it home felt like it was going in and out of limp mode and would not boost past 4 psi! check the cel and came back as this:
P0238 turbo/supercharger boost sensor a ckt high input
p0106 map/baro ckt rng perform
Passat 2008/09 TSI engine 16k miles. APR stage 2+
I was driving normally and suddenly EPC light comes on, and the engine goes to limp mode. I turn the engine off and then turn on again. Everything runs fine. Vag shows N276 intermittent fail. I had already this fail, but always when starting engine, and the engine used to run OK. Is this a "sign" that is time to replace the HPFP? Or can I take the chance and keep running?
I have the problem of over boosting and hitting limp mode. now does that mean i adjusted the actuator wrong when putting it back on? if so how do i adjust it properly. or is there something else i can do to make the car come out of limp mode? also since it is boosting past a certain psi should i put a mbc on it and adjust it down?
View 1 RepliesWife's Passat went into "limp mode" and will only give me 4th gear. Check engine light came on when it happened. I had a buddy scan the car with OBD scanner and it is saying Sensor A is bad? Which sensor this is, or thought of writing down the code that it was throwing. My guess is the speed sensor for the transmission.
Luckily the car is a W8 and has enough power to pull the car from stop in 4th gear. There aren't any reputable VW dealerships in my town or any neighboring town. I've decided to take the car to a VW/Audi specialist some 60 miles away. They told me they can take a look and replace if needed. I absolutely do not trust VW dealerships/service around here. I've heard nothing but nightmare stories about them.
My friends has an 06 3.6 motion sedan and has a problem. His car went into limp mode with the ECM and traction control light as well as CEL. we took it to the local dealer (45 min away) they scanned it and said that the throttle pedal was the only code that wouldn't clear. He ordered a new pedal from ECS and installed it today. The cars still in limp mode we read about a potential throttle body adjustment procedure (not too sure of the validity) any how followed it open hood open door ignition in the "on" position for a few minutes. After that when he started it every warning light came on. Is there a step in pedal replacement we re missing? On a side note the connector on the pedal end was fairly damaged not sure what from maybe the po had a botched replacement attempt? Not too sure what to try next.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 1.8T AWM auto tranny Passat with APR chip. CIA, Bolt down Coil Packs, Bosch F6DTC plugs, OEM cat to straight pipe to magnaflow muffler, N75J, Forge DV (not the 007).
I installed a MBC bypassing the N75 to keep the spike at 16psi and hold (the n75J i spike at 22psi and hold 12~14), When I did that, the car will go in limp mode from 'over boosting'. I have to turn the MBC down to 9 to keep the car limping out. I love the way the MBC have the boost curve (the N75 is too passive for me). would like to fix this issue.
Also, with the N75 and or MBC, while in the APR 93 oct chip mode, I always get surging in 4th and 5th gear. Any time the boost is over 10psi, it is like I have tons of boost, but the engine is not using it. APR said it is the tranny, the tranny shop said it is the engine or computer, the engine shop said it is the tuning.
We have a 2006 Passat, 30K miles, live in northeast on a Great Lake. We bought it used in 5/07 with 11K miles on it. The other day, a whole mess of warning lights came on, and the car went into "limp mode." The dealership diagnosed corroded wires where they connect to the throttle valve controller. We usually keep our cars for years, and we've never had corroded wires before. Is this a typical problem of VW's? The service mgr said he'd seen about 6 come in in the last year, but I don't know if that's a lot or a few compared to other brands. We're getting ready to shop for cars again, and we'd consider a new Jetta, but not if it can't go out in the rain. Also, if the wires corroded once, what will keep them from corroding again? Should we expect this to keep happening?
View 2 RepliesSo the other day as I was trying to accelerate my car had absolutely no power at all. it almost seemed like it went into a limp mode or something of the sort. No matter what gear or how much gas i gave it, it barely chugged along at more than an idle. I pulled over turned it off, then waited a few seconds and turned it back on, same deal. Once more, I turned it off and back on and finally, it seemed to be ok. It flashed a warning light but it cleared after I turned off the car.
View 4 RepliesOwn a 2006 Volkswagen Passat 2.0t a/t. My dash board is showing a parking brake fault but as soon as the that comes up my tranny will go into limp mode ???? could the parking brake and tranny be linked together??? My parking brake still engaged and disengaged ??? what can it be ???
View 8 RepliesA few months ago, my '00 Sentra developed a rough idle but I ignored it because it wasn't too bad, until recently at least. It had been getting progressively worse so I went out and bought some CRC MAF cleaner, which solved the rough idle altogether for about a day. After doing some errands, I started the car but it was now stuck in limp home mode, not matter how much gas I gave it, she wouldn't top 20 MPH and 2.5k revs.
I bought a new MAF, and that made the problem worse: in any drive gears or reverse, when given any gas, the engine would stall and die but when in neutral, I can rev it as high as I want to. I reset the computer and cleaned the new sensor to no avail. After re-installing the old sensor (which was visibly broken, it was missing an entire wire assembly), it will run poorly but will now drive with some quirks, and I don't trust it further than around the block.
My question is: with the new sensor, do I need an ECU reprogram, did I receive a bad sensor, or is there a compound problem? (I've heard with similar issues: bad alternator, bad TPS, bad IAC module, dirty IAC or TPS, clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, dirty air filter, among others.)
I was driving to work and got about 15 kms from home and all of a sudden, the engine lost power and I coasted to a stop, with the engine running rough on 3 or 4 cylinders. No engine light on and I have a Scangauge II and all the gauge readings looked ok. the fuel pressure was 42, but the glycerine in the gauge froze solid in the winter and I didn't think it was right. I stopped the engine and looked for obvious problems like a failed o-ring on the fuel filter, any leaks and found none. tried the engine again and it ran perfect again, drove the remaining 40 kms to work with no problem. It happened again on the way home, no engine light, again, stopped on the side of the road, it would not restart, check the SG for codes and there was none. Then it started again and I drove home fine again.
I picked up a new gauge for the dash I had added, and checked the pressure, it was 48 and steady with the engine running, but I then changed the fuel filters and installed the blue spring kit to the filter housing I was waiting for warmer weather to install. Drove it to work again the next week, it ran perfect, fuel pressure steady at 60. Then I used it yesterday and it lost power again. I could not get it to run properly for quite a few attempted starts, the it was fine again and I drove it home.
I idled it and checked for codes again, none. ICP was 740, FMP was 54, SYC 1, Fuel Pressure 60. While it was idling, it did it again, idle slowed down and all the previous reading stayed the same, fuel delivery did go up though.
Previous work done. (Current Kms = 390000) 180000 kms, new injectors, turbo, EGR cooler, (EGR blocked off as well), ICP sensor and regulator, in dash Fuel Pressure and ICP gauges installed. FICM sent to Swampy's after alternator died and took out FICM and upgraded to 54v.
The SG when I try to clear the codes it says "Not Responding" with the key on or off, so I don't think it will read or clear them. Where to start? I am thinking wiring somewhere...
Just filled up with Shell V-Power 91 Octane Fuel for the first time in my MKVI Golf 2.5
I know 91 isn't needed in this car but I like filling up with good fuel every once in a while.
After filling up my check engine light came on right away, also my engine wont allow me to go over 3k RPM.
Why did this happen and what can I do to fix it?
I was towing a fairly heavy trailer yesterday (around 10k) and laying into the throttle to gain some speed before a big hill when I completely lost power. It slowed me down to about 10 MPH.
I was able to drive home at very slow speeds and the only way to get over 10 MPH (only up to about 20MPH was to very lightly accelerate up to speed. Any hard acceleration and it cut me off to 10 MPH. No warning lights of any kind going off...
Truck has a Hypertech Max Energy programmer on stage 2.
I'm going to do a weld-in-plug delete in my RV in the next couple weeks, and its a crapshoot apparently if it'll throw a code. My immediate concern is I want to go on a trip right after, and I won't have time to fiddle about getting an SCT tuner to turn the code off. What I definitely don't want is a code for EGR flow restriction to eventually cause my motor to go into some kind of limp mode while I'm in the middle of a long drive. Is this possible?
View 14 RepliesWhile exiting the interstate just now my 2011 f250 just went in to limp mode going up the ramp and cut off. I am sitting at the top of a very busy exit truck won't restart .
View 12 RepliesI have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
What's the best tune for this motor? I have an hs mini max with the spe hot tune and has nothing but problems towing with with it. They swore up and down for a year I was the only one with issues for a year and then finally admitted it's not good for towing and lots of people had issues with it so they gave me their towing tune for free but it isn't very good either.
The hot tune is a little too hot and keeps going into limp mode when towing up hills even on the lowest stock setting, or really getting on the throttle on any setting not to mention way too high of boost for a stock turbo at 30-32 on every level . It makes sports cars look slow before hitting limp mode though.
Their tow tune fixed that problem but it's boost is too low at only 18-19 (had 24 running stock Ford programming) and it smokes like crazy, more smoke on higher settings without getting any faster or any more boost. It doesn't smoke much on the stock setting but clearly the other settings aren't very well tuned.
I want a tune that will tow 25k without issues and smoke(not literally) sports cars off the line at factory boost level s so it doesn't blow the turbo.
What the problem is with my F-350 6.0. I have an intermittent problem with my Speedo reading zero while I'm doing 70mph on the fwy. since the speedo won't work the truck goes into limp mode, the turbo will not function at optimum level. I have replaced the diff. sensor, the trani sensor, the a.b.s.sensors, the instrument cluster to a reman cluster. Then when I had a local mechanic plug a laptop dianostic program on it as he was running through the system inadvertently the radio cut out, so I found that who ever installed the after market stereo they cut a few wires to the harness, I went to the junk yard found the harness end and replaced the end. so with all that said and done no one knows what is causing this speedo not to work and limp mode. about 4 years ago the oil pump stopped working and ruined the turbo so the whole front end of that glorious 6.0 was rebuilt the problem started about a year after that.
View 2 Replies