My passenger-side motor mount is cracked out. Is this a common failure? The aluminum part that connects the "frame" to the engine mount is cracked, the hydraulic rubber mount looks almost new, not sure how the previous owner missed the crack in the aluminum. Car has 140K miles on it. I'm thinking about just having it welded up.
View 8 RepliesThe passenger-side motor mount on my '99 1.8t has blown (again). I'm on my second mount already and want to make sure I address all other possible causes before I go through another one. Looking for keeping this new mount intact a bit longer? (BTW the original mount lasted approx. 120k miles and the replacement has "only" lasted 85k miles)...
View 4 RepliesWhat hardware I need to install the passenger side motor mount spacer from Euro Image Tuning. Been sitting on it for a while and cant find the hardware that it came with. Would like to install it, but dont remember what it came with..
View 2 RepliesI can't get my front (passenger side) motor mount out because it's under the refrigerant line. How would I do that? There is a black, coiled "jacket" that goes around the line right before it enters the back of the radiator, can I detach it there? The line snakes all over the engine compartment and appears to be bolted onto the radiator on one end and the other end goes through a clamp and into the dash area. [URL]....................
View 5 RepliesSo I just replaced my oil pump and i am reassembling my front end and I just cant get my passenger side engine mount bolt to stop spinning so i can get the nut on (the mount underneath the car) , I have no clue how to stop the spinning
View 1 RepliesI was sitting at the stoplight in neutral when the light turned green. I pushed in the clutch and put the car in first then all of a sudden a huge CLUNK like when you take out the starter bolt without supporting the trans or motor. Then while letting out the clutch about halfway all hell broke loose. It sounded like a bunch of marbles rattling like crazy in the trans. I pushed the clutch back in then it stops until you let it back out again. The car still moves forward and reverse but with all that noise. The sound seems like it's coming from under the driver side motor mount. When I put my hand on the tranny I can feel the vibrations very well. Does this sound like the throw out bearing?
View 3 RepliesMy 99 Passat 1.8t broke down on me last night... my front motor mount is missing and my motor snaps back from time to time but last night i think it went back all more than normal and as soon as it snapped back the motor cut off and won't turn over... it will crank and crank but not turn over. i looked for any loose wires or anything possible that could be out of place and couldn't really see anything out of the ordinary... There are 3 sensors right next to the power steering reservoir that aren't connected but don't look like they were connected, need to identify those sensors.
View 2 RepliesMy 2006 AWD LTD 500 has about 52000 miles on it; a slight rattle/clunking noise is intermittently heard on driver's side in engine compartment. Took it in to dealer who says motor mount is cracked and front stabilizer bar joints are worn and both need replacing. Car has only been driven on highways or for short trips (3-4 miles) and has had no impacts nor been driven over rough roads or run over any potholes or such. Should the motor mount be damaged? At 52K miles?? Never heard of such a thing. Ditto, the stabilizer bar joints: worn out in under 60K miles? What can I do about this? Who seek relief from? Ford warranty is, of course, over, and supplemental warrenty will only cover motor mount replacement but not stab bar. Are these parts routinely wearing out at such an early date that repair shops can reap the rewards???
View 4 RepliesWhile swapping on my winter tires yesterday, I noticed the strut boot (I believe it's called) on the passenger side has a large crack, almost split in two. See picture attached.
The Prius is a 2006 with almost 370K KM (~231K miles), and I am hoping to keep the car for another 1-2 years, until the PIP2 is out.
Is this something to be concerned about? The strut is not leaking, and the suspension seems otherwise fine.
2003 F150 5.4 4x4 supercrew ,76k miles
Recently the passenger side exhaust manifold cracked on my truck. I bought this truck about two years ago with 58k on it and currently have 76k miles. I remember getting the carfax report and being relieved to see that it had exhaust manifold replaced in July of 2014 at 49K miles along with a new EGR tube. I called the shop that worked on the truck to see if he could confirm that both manifolds were replaced since carfax only said manifold & egr tube. The shop manager confirmed that both manifolds were replaced and he told me that they were most likely manifolds from napa according to the part number.
Now, my question is, what's the best brand to replace the manifolds with? Should I just go with OEM and spend the extra $130 per side? I know the manifolds are a common problem with these trucks but only lasting three years and 27K miles just seems ridiculous to me.
I'm hoping that when I get around to actually doing this that they wont be to bad because of how recently they were replaced. For now I just cleaned the area with a wire wheel and used the inferno metal repair. Seems to have done the job but I don't expect it to last long, just another month or two until I move to a place where I can actually work on my vehicles.
I had the struts replaced a few months ago along with the strut mounts and bearings. Since then I've developed a popping and clunking noise from the passenger side spring/mount area. I've greased it and it has quieted it down but I noticed that when the car is not moving and I turn the wheel from lock to lock that very top piece of the strut pretty sure it's called the hat moves along with the wheels while the drivers side does not. What's wrong? Is it something as simple as the nut being to lose or to tight?
View 3 RepliesIt seems that the install of my Doug Thorley headers didn't go as well as I thought. Turns out the passenger side header melted the bracket holding the heater lines and then punctured one of the lines when it rubbed against the header. Right now I'm not sure what to do. I noticed the melted bracket and pulled the fender well, but that's when I noticed the leak. I guess some of the melted plastic was keeping it from leaking everywhere until I removed it. I live in AZ so the rear heater isn't really necessary so if a stop gap measure is to bypass it then I'm game but I can't find any info on how to do it. If the only real solution is to get the entire line replaced then I'm a bit hosed I guess. 2001 V-10 4x4 BTW.
View 6 RepliesI have an O4 Phaeton here - the passenger wiper motor doesn't work.. After removing unit - verifying mechanical operation I've found that it's function just fine. However there is no power to connector. When wipers are running I supplied power with power probe and wiper operates just fine.
Cant find location and # for what I presume is a bad fuse. I looked for fuse diagrams all over and cant find one.
My 1997 Camry with 2.2 L motor is leaking oil profusely beneath the passenger side of the engine. Over time it looses oil slowly however when the engine runs it really leaks. I've isolated about where it is coming from beneath the timing belt area as shown in picture : [URL] .....
View 1 RepliesCleaned the engine and determined the location of this oil leak. I am posting two pics. The far away shot shows the leak in the center of the picture...near the motor mount. The close up pic u can see the leak coming from a vertical seam just Below where the half shaft enters the transaxle. It is definitely motor oil, not transmission oil.
View 5 RepliesThe vehicle in question is a 96 Buick Century. I don't use it a whole lot, but occasionally lend it out or use for some undesirable task. Anyway, I have to get it to pass inspection.
View 4 RepliesWith summer heat, i usually push my front windows down. but today after finishing lunch, started the car,push the window down, the passenger window is not working (luckily it's in closed pos). i still can hear the motor running up or down as i pushed.
View 2 RepliesI have a f150 with a 5.4L with 354,000 miles on it. It started leaking water somewhere on the front of the motor on the passenger side. it looks like it is under where the heater hose connects to the intake. I guess my question is can the water eat a hole in the intake?
View 1 RepliesI need to change the all support mount motor of my Camry 2003 v2.4l. but I don't know where find the best model or manufacturer.
View 2 RepliesWhen I got home from work last night i discovered i had this strange noise coming from my gs430. not sure what is it but there was some smoke coming from my passenger side of the motor but I couldn't see what it was exactly due to the night hour. please view the short video clip to see what it could be.
What is this noise? - YouTube
The other day when i wanted to start the car, I found out my battery was death so i decided to ask my buddy to push me and crank it on gear. Car shakes as normal and engine started, but then i heard a weird noise like if something was rubbing. I turned it off and popped the hood. I found my engine leaning forward and toward the passenger side.
So the next morning, I checked the bay again and i found out that it wasn't the motor mount. Motor mount is ok, but then i found a broken bolt that holds the bracket to the block; the one that goes right next to the water pump to be more specific. Also in the back of the block there is a bolt that hold bracket to the block again and the thread whole was enough weak to break when the other bolt failed. So I did some research and i found that there is a solution for the bolt in back of the block.
What I am concerned is for the on the goes right next to the water pump. It seems that it broke the whole thing including the part where the bolt threads go. I just had a shop install I.E connecting rods, new piston rings, and rebuilt the heads. They put a new timing belt kit and all its job required. I think they might have a bit of fault on this since it had to be removed when they did the timing belt kit. Anyways I don't want to think my block will be a junk now because engine is running like a champ, and that would be a bummer.
-Bolt that is broken in two pieces.-
-And where it is attached to the block-
-Part of the engine where this all goes.-