Passat (B5) :: Open Door Light On, Even When The Door Is Closed
Jan 20, 2009
The door ejar light stays on, on my moms 02 passat. I checked the latch to see if it opens and closes all the way, the light is still on when the door is closed all the way (it sits flush with the rear door) and there is a small whistle once in a while when driving. and sometimes, she says, the luggage compartment light comes on like the trunk is open but its closed.
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This seems to happen a lot when it gets really cold out. Started happening a few weeks ago. Sometimes if I notice the light starts to flicker on, at a stoplight I'll open the door, push down the rubber button that triggers the light, and shut the door. It'll usually stay off for a little bit.
I noticed that there's a little dent on the door where it presses against the button, and I'm wondering if that's a possible reason why this issue is happening.
I have a 1997 Honda Accord LX....
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The door handle isn't broken as far as I can tell, I just went to get in the car one day, put the key in the door lock, turned it to the right like I always do and the door wouldn't open. After trying a few times I went to the passenger side and got in, hit the unlock button to unlock all the doors and the driver door still wouldn't open. I took the trim piece off (the little piece that covers the door lock) the inside of the door and attempted to manually unlock the door by pulling the rod but to no avail.
What I should do next? It seems like I would have to have the door open to get whole inside door panel off so I'm not really sure what to do.
1st gen lumina .....
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Could this a door open/close sensor? Where is it located?
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Have a '93 Aerostar that had something roll up against inside sliding side door and must have nudged it out of alignment. Broke off outside door handle, took off inside panel and tried prying, pushing, kicking and pulling rods, handle, linkage and anything I could get at. Any way to get it open, so I can re-align the catch mechanism??? I have tried everything I could to "muscle it" open....
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Yesterday went to fill up and the push feature on the fuel door would not open it. The door would pop out about 1/4 inch and would not release open even with a forceful tug. Played with it for some time pushing and couldn't get it to release. I actually left the gas station with no fuel. when I got home it worked fine so back to the gas station. Never had this Issue before and I go through fuel like its my job.
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The front passenger car door just closed and wouldn't open from either side. It is not locked, and lock is functional. Nothing budges.
Husband uses this car as a rural mail delivery vehicle and drives it from the front passenger side. On the route today, it failed to open for him during the route -- very inconvenient to move all that mail to get in and out.
He needs to take the inside door panel off but doesn't see how with having the door open.
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I'm unable to open my trunk door with the remote, using the key, or with the switch on the drivers side door. I am also pretty sure it is not frozen shut. Will I need to switch out the complete latch assembly or just need to wd-40 something? This is for a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan.
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So on my 2001 passat v6 the trunk wont open with the switch on the driver door for some reason and it seems the previous owner wanted to fix it and instead messed up and now the rear driver side door wont open even when its "unlocked".
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2009 XLT.. rear drivers side door is locked and closed. Master lock button, remote button and keypad all function and make the manual lock rod go up and down as it should. Both the interior and exterior door handles move freely, as if the door were properly locked, but regardless of the lock position neither will open the door.
I dismantled the door from the inside as best I could and can see all cables and rods are intact down to the actuator mechanism. Pretty sure something inside the actuator is messed up, but how do I get the door open to get at the screws needed to remove the actuator?? If I need to pry the actuator apart, what am I looking for (or more acurately, feeling around for) to release the door latch??
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So yesterday I installed a Kenwood Double Din with a back up camera....that being said I was in and around the car all day, door panels, trim panels, rear bumper etc etc all removed. After completing the install the "Door Ajar" light stayed on, on the dash. No interior lights remained on to show a doors open, and the trunk light goes out when the doors closed. The drivers side door module is no good, and its been no good for a few months now. It doesn't show when the doors open, so i doubt that is the problem. What it could be? Any way to figure out which door is the one that's staying open?
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Now that I have the audio upgraded in my LS, we have uncovered a slight issue with the drivers rear door. The installers will work with me, but I thought there is so much knowledge up here, why not ask.
Everything else on the vehicle works perfect, its just this one door as if all the power is off or disconnected.(ACC or ON power it functions fine) I have checked the fuses under the driver side and the ones in the trunk, they are all fine and we took the front driver door apart to make sure any connections were good. everything seems secure, we even looked over the ECU in the door to make sure it didn't seem fried or anything, all functions on front and passenger doors are perfect.
Here are the symptoms: passenger rear door light wont come on with the door open unless the ACC is on. the other 3 turn on, with or without ACC.
The door lock actuator from the outside on this door wont lock the doors or with the sensing when you approach with the fob and grab the handle (as in the lights there wont light up).
The door closer that finishes off the door being slightly open wont grab and pull it in.
The trunk lights wont come on and there is no fuse or connection issue we can see. Its puzzling.
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For some reason the dome light doesn't come on when I open the Drivers door. All the other activate the dome light just fine. Can I assume the switch is in the latching mechanism inside the door? I want to make sure I'm tearing into the correct area before I start and looking for tips as well obviously.
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New MY2013 SE w/Appearance Package purchased Oct. 2012. Earlier this year the fuel filler door would sometimes stick closed; progressively got worse to where it would not open. Replaced under warranty.
Now starting to stick again and I expect it to worsen. Going back in this week for a warranty replacement fuel filler door.
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A little history first. 1998 F-150XL ... We bought this truck in 2001 and other than some random electrical issues we love this truck. The first thing to go bad was the was the interior light staying on even with the door closed, no big deal I just removed the bulb, the next thing to go bad was the instrument cluster except the speedometer, not too big of a deal just keep track of the mileage so you don't run out of gas. The next problem was randomly not starting like it lost its ground, the lights on the dash would be bright until you hit the starter then the lights on the dash would go dim and the starter would tap like it had no ground. Wait a few minutes and it would start again and it would be a year before it would do it again, until now!
Drove to town came back out did it again except this time would not start again. We pulled the starter switch it was good, replaced the clutch engagement switch on the clutch pedal, no good. Decided to pull it home, tried to pop start it, no dice. While pulling home all the sudden everything lit up on the dash and it started like a champ, drove it the rest of the way home and it wouldn't start back up. Since then I have put in a new battery, new battery wire ends, took lose the ground on the firewall and starter and cleaned them with no luck. I can get the lights to come up bright on the dash again, but as soon as I hit the starter all goes dead again. I am at a complete loss where to go next?
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Just replaced drivers side door latch on my 99 explorer sport 3 days ago with no problems but now all of a sudden I noticed after I closed door the dome lights would stay on and I made sure all door were closed tightly so i unplugged the battery and plugged it back in and the dome lights came right back on. What this could be or how to fix it?!
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I had a problem with my door ajar light always being on, I was able to find out that it was in the sensor for the back glass and was able to fix it. But now when I cut the explorer off and remove the keys the dome light comes on instantly even if no doors are opened and the lock/unlock button on the driver door won't work. However if I manually turn off the dome light my lock/unlock button starts working properly. Also if I do not manually turn the light of with the roll switch the light will stay on until the computer kills the power to it about 10 mins later. What could cause this??
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Having issues with the door switches. My driver door, when opened, will cause a quick "door ajar" message then go back to as if I closed the door. Only once have I closed the door to have the dome light stay on. Doesn't do it all the time but is more frequent with the cold weather setting in. I got the service truck next week so its a good time to bring it in for warranty work.....
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So the switch for my fuel door has not been working for a while. I can still manually open it by reaching through the liner in the truck, but it has started to get on my nerves recently. I tried changing out the switch and that didn't seem to work, it was a switch from the junk yard but I tried 2 different ones and neither worked. It might be the fuel door actuator?
2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T ....
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I am trying to keep driving my Astro until I pay off my wife's new car. Repairing the door shouldn't be a problem if I could get the door open to remove the inside door panel. How to get the door open? Can't use the inside or outside handle now.
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When our 2008 Outback (75K miles) is running the garage door remote in the car will not open or close the door. New batteries in the remote, so that can't be the cause. We have to turn the car motor off, operate the remote, then start the car again. We have to follow the same procedure when getting back into the garage. This just started about a month ago and does not happen with any of the other cars in the garage when opening or closing the same door, i.e. the remotes operate with their motors running. Is it possible there is some new electrical discharge from the car that is causing this? Something unusual with the alternator? Other possible causes?
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