Passat (B5) :: On Start Up Car Idles Around 800 For About 30 Seconds Then Levels Out
May 9, 2011
Lately I have noticed when I start my car in the morning it idles around 800 for about 30 seconds then levels out. No smoke or anything from exhaust. Then after driving for a bit and coming to a stop it does te same thing. It's very intermittent but have noticed it seems to be getting worse. Timing belt n water pump was done about 5 k ago. All new coils done under recall. With new plugs. Air filter was done n oil changed every 3k.. It's a 1.8t aww by the way with 97k on it.
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A minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.
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I've been searching for a few days, Can not find an exact same posted issue. 2004 Passat GLX 2.8 Auto FWD. The car starts great, will idle all day if you let it. Will move down the driveway or a small ways down the road and die. start it again, will start easy. die once it levels at idle. Also if you rev it, it will die within a second of revving. If you can get it high enough, say 4000+ it will die, but as the engine speed slows down it will catch again and come alive. and kinda repeat. will do that as long as you hold the gas down. after about 15mins of restarting, it will level out at idle and you can continue on your way. the fuel pump still runs for it's second after the engine dies, so i know it's still going. The car recently had new plugs put on, New brake switch, and the pcv hose that runs from passenger side valve cover to the rear of drivers side along the front was replaced with the same size rubber hose. it broke during new plug install. It idles smooth, drives good while acting right. but does have a noticeable power loss, but still very driveable.
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Iv got this escort from my sister, i assume it has been hardly maintained considering the... state. I bought it because she was tired of dealing with the problem... driving, it will turn off. She said it got to the point where she just stopped driving it, although it only happened twice. It began when first time it shuttered then died. Took air filter off and it only ran it like that to get it home. Now it doesn't run but for a few seconds even without air filter, so Its the best choice to leave in.
Anyway, I've replaced:
-PCV Valve
-Fuel Filter
-Some dry-rotted hoses
-I didn't replace it, but i cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor in the intake.
I've tested alternator and batter, both are good. I tried fuel treatment. Being honest this is the extent of my.. automotive understanding. But Im fairly certain it is a fuel system problem.
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It's a 05 Kia Rio. I've recently put a bit of work into it due to a few issues which were fuel related, namely replacing the fuel filter/pump. It also has brand new spark plugs. That solved the issue that originally put it on blocks for a few months and it ran fine for the past few weeks.
Today I went outside to drive to work and got the symptoms in the title. I know it's not a spark issue because it does start, and I used it on accessory to air up my tires this morning.
I'm just not sure where to go next. I've done a bit of searching and have found recommendations for checking the grounds and the distributor cap.
While running at rough idle, depressing the accelerator makes it die faster, rather than keeping it running. It rained last night and this morning. It's about 70 outside instead of the 80-90 it's been the last few weeks. No check engine light, but I've only tried to start it about 10 times.
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I've got a 1994 Camry V6 that I am swapping transmissions from automatic to manual. Before the swap, the engine ran fine and started first time every time. Now that I have everything back together, the car will take many times of 10 seconds or longer cranking to be able to start. Once it does start, it idles very high and within 15 seconds will die. If, during the time it is running, you touch the gas at all, the car instantly dies. I've got CEL's for CPS and TPS. I have replaced both sensors numerous times, checking with a voltmeter they are within spec as are the wires, I have replaced the ECU and wiring harness.
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I have an 02 X, and it's been giving us trouble for almost 2 years now. We've babied it along, but it is acting so crazy now. Here's the current weirdness...
Truck idles, ABS light comes on, within 15 seconds engine dies. Battery is DEAD, must have a jump to restart. Otherwise, if we catch the ABS light and Rev the engine to 2500 rpm and hold it for a few seconds until the ABS light goes out, then it is fine and does not die.
We have replaced the alternator with a stock Ford brand (whatever their brand is from the dealer) because we were told the ones from the auto part stores didn't have a strong enough or steady enough current. (This thing had already eaten 3 auto parts store brand alternators in 2 years.)
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I've had this passat since it had 103k. Now at 167k. It's ran good. Til now. Lately its been having a problem starting. Goto start it and it takes a good 15-20 secs to start. Eventually starts but had a couple times when it started the engine would act like it was going to die then eventually stay running. I've noticed when the car sits for awhile. About 3-4 hours or more it starts ok. But say I run to the store and let it sit for 20 min to a hour then I have problems starting it. Had a local store test battery, starter, and alternator and everything tested fine except the starter failed on startup but then passed after the car was running for a min. So replaced starter. Still having starting issues. Recently I have changed the spark plugs and valve cover gasket.
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I got my first truck about a months ago 2001 ford f150 v8 5.4.. has 155,000 seems to run good.. but about 3 days ago i started to notice that when I am in my driveway ill start it let it idle for say a min or so... then when I go to put it in reverse it will idle up for a lil bit.. it didn't do that till about 3-4 days ago.. other them that everything is fine.. should i get the transmission fluid flushed??
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So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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I just replaced the water pump and put it all back together, now it won't run well enough to drive. Checked vacuum system, all sensor connections, hoses, gas cap, changed fuel filter, I can hear the fuel pump kick in, reset system with battery disconnected and have looked at everything I can think of so far.
Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.
I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.
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When I start my car it seems like some of the cylinders are missing for like 5 seconds then runs fine. Sometimes its quite violent and this morning it stalled the first time I tried. The colder it is outside the worse this becomes.
The car is still under warranty, but you have to wait a week to get the car into the dealer here and a battery wouldn't be covered anyway. Here is what I have so far.
Bad battery : The car has 45k miles on it and as far as I know the battery is stock. Also, when I did the 40k service I seem to remember something about the battery on the invoice (I will look), but I was too busy worrying about the bald tires. I do generally leave my ipod plugged into my car stereo (which charges it) over night, so that is putting a drain on it. I am going to take it out of the car tonight and see if that makes a difference. I suppose I could take the battery to O'Reilly's and have them test it, but it seems like it would be in their best interest to lie.
Coolant temperature sensor : The car was recently in the shop and they said they found a small coolant leak and fixed it, maybe the sensor became damaged? Most reports I see about this suggest the car runs rough for much longer than mine and must be fed gas.
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I currently noticed something today, that my euro LED taillights (HELLA smoked) are strobing when i start up my car, only the LEDs (Amber and the brake light). It strobes for a couple of seconds. know for a fact, that it never happened before. After the start up and the strobing for a couple of seconds everything gets back to normal. What could the problem be ?
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I'm having a strange exhaust leak type noise (loud exhaust type noise like hole in exhaust pipe) that goes away after about 20-30 seconds.. quite noisy in the garage. Can't see anything obvious. I tried the dealer but they always send a porter to bring the cars to the service bay and of course it stops by then! They couldn't duplicate the noise.
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I have an 05, 2.0 TDI which recently got a a PO118 fault. My mechanic replaced the green top sensor with one with a blue top (having been told that the green top sensors have been updated to blue). I am still getting an occasional PO118 fault but now the auxiliary (a/c) fan or the radiator starts running within a few seconds of start up, A/C on or not. SO, bad sensor, wrong sensor or something else entirely?
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In the first two years of ownership of my Passat, when I would turn the car on during cold days, the rpms would stay at 1500 for a quick 20 seconds until the car got a bit warm and then would drop down to about 800. Recently, when I turn the car on cold days, the rpms drop directly to 900 and below.
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This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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How it all got started: [URL] .... Replaced Check Valve (06A 133 528 D/A) today, car is still idling rough, flashing CEL but it's solid/no CEL when the car is moving.
What I have done so far:
1. Replaced Turbo Inlet Pipe (Cracked at one corner)
2. Replaced D.V. (Original was fine)
4. Did Smoke Test, No Vacuum Leak
3. Replace Check Valve (06A 133 528 D/A) Above The Intake Manifold
4. Cleaned Throttle Body and All Pipes under Intake Manifold
Codes keep reappearing:
17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
And All Cylinders Misfire
Car idles fine when I squeeze this hose marked in green : [URL] ....
Something I noticed before and I think it's still doing it, there is weird noise every time I shift to reverse or drive, It sounds like when you just open drivers door.
Here's the link to the sound clip [URL] .....
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02 Passat 4Motion with the 3.0L V6. I just had the car at the dealer 2 weeks ago for the 50K service and to have the temperature gauge fixed. Otherwise, the car was running just fine. At the service, they replaced the water temp sensor, performed a fuel injector service and radiator flush (both recommended).
Now two weeks later, her car rough idles, dies and has to be towed to the same dealership. They first diagnose fouled plugs which they replace gratis. They then tell me the plugs fouled because the ignition coil and wires have gone bad and need to be replaced. They want to do an additional injector/intake cleaning service. They are offering to discount the services slightly. I'm still going to be out another $850.
I called Volkswagen Customer Service and they confirmed that the ignition coils were not covered under the recall.
Something sounds "off" to me. The car was running fine before the initial service. Was the dealer just being "nice" in comparing the plug replacement or did he think that they initial fuel injector service may have fouled the plugs? I don't really want to pay 2x for the same service and now the coil/wire replacement.
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I've got a 2000 passat v6 and lately it started running pretty poorly. Now it takes a good 15-20 minutes just to get it started and idles very low and dies until after awhile it will run fine. I plugged in an obdII scanner and got the codes p1131, p1423, and p1411. I am pretty sure the last 2 codes are just emissions codes I've had ever since i bought the car. I haven't been able to find a solid answer on what this code is. I imagine it has to be something along the lines of a mass airflow sensor or o2 sensor. I'd rather not go throwing all that money at my car if I don't have to yet.
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I just had my timing belt, water pump, etc. replaced at a reputable indie VW shop. I just got the car back and it seems to idle a bit rough. The car used to purr like a kitten but now it shakes a bit in idle. Seems to run fine but the idle is rough. I'm going to bring it back to the shop on Monday. Can the timing be off a bit? Will it ever purr like a kitten again?
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