Passat (B5) :: On Remote Hook That Holds Spare Keys Broke Off?
Jun 1, 2011
here is my problem on a 02 passat. on the remote, the little siver hook that holds your spare keys broke off. i had a new spare remote that had never been programed. so what i did was to simply remove the blank key and replace it with the cut key. also i took out the computer chip (i guess that is what it is called) and put it in the new remote. so i have the same key with the same chip that has always worked only in a different fob. BUT when i start the car it will only run for a sec. or two then it will shut off and i will get 'imoblizer disabled' ???? everything else on the remote workes. this makes NO since to me at all and is driving me crazy.
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I recently noticed that using my spare keys w/ my R disabled my vagcom tricks / convenience settings I had done. When going back to my original keys I use 99% of the time, these vagcom tricks become active again w/ no problem. I've gotten the following vagcom tweaks done to my '13 Golf R;
- convenience feature to open and close windows using key
- 4 convenience blinks (instead of 3) when switching lanes
- horn disabled when locking the car
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Well heck, the PO of the truck I just bought has lost the spare key to the ignition, and the key that opens the tailgate and unlocks the spare tire. First question, is the key to the tailgate and spare tire the same key or are they different?
Second question, is there any simple way to have new keys cut for these things?
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I have a 2012 Accent GLS with premium package. So, this came with fog lights. Few months back, one of the fog lights got ripped of its place and the body shop said the hooks which hold the light are broken and whole bumper need to be replaced for the light to be attached and quote was given for around $750.
I contacted other small body shops to just stick the light with glue but no one accepted to do that.
I don't use those fog lights anyway. So, is it cheap in a way to remove the other fog light and just fill the fog light spots? When I say fill, I am not sure what those are called which exist in place of fog lights for a car with no fog lights. I think its better than just being with one fog light.
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Got the following problem with my 2004:
1. Unlocked ny car this morning by use of my remote key and the alarm went off.
2. Got the alarm turned off by locking and unlocking my car several times by use of my remote keys
3. Put the car in reverse and took out of the garage. Parked the car and put the gear stick in P position. The knob on the left side of the gear stick remained in the "in" position where one usually can move the gear stick up and down between the gears.
4. However, I was not able to move the gear stick, and the main display said something in German like "Call the workshop".
5. Locked the car bye use of one of my three remote keys.
6. Later, after trying to solve the gear stick problem by moving the knob and the gear stick in several ways I was not able to lock the car with any of my remote keys. No messages were displayed.
7. I was only able to manually lock the door where I used my key.
The knob on the gear stick is showing scratch marks so someone has tried to do something to it earlier. I have owned the car since easter this year and has not experienced this problem earlier.
The battery on the left side of the car is new, and the batteries were charged for 12 hours two weeks ago. The car has not been driven much since easter, and has only been taken in and out of the garage four times during the last three weeks without being driven.
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My father took the car to the grocery store and lost the keys. When we got the car from the dealer we only got one set of keys and proceeded to order a second set. Forgot to pick the other set and when I did the key did not worked. They (the dealer) swapped the 2 last digits from the VIN number so they had to reorder the keys. In the meantime how do I open the car. It is a 2003 Passat V6.
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So my gf locked her keys in the trunk of her 2002 passat glx 4 motion... any other way to open the trunk? for some reason the trunk switch on drivers door won't pop the trunk. Gas door does pop.
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I thought nothing of the ESP light when I was driving home since it just snowed another foot and it was slippery. But, just got home and when I turned the car off I noticed the displays are staying illuminated with the keys out and doors shut. Not the center info display in red the small ones to the sides .. One is the odo/km display. Are these related ? I disconnected the battery since I have to sleep and don't want to wake up to a dead battery.
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So about 30 minutes ago my exhaust broke between the turbo and cat. I guess I could weld it back but the pipe is a little rusty. Should I just get a turbo back and call it good and if so what brand and where do I get one for a 01 passat 1.8t
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I got a CEL this morning and the car was driving rough, tach bouncing at idle so I popped the hood and the plastic funnel that the oil cap screws into was completely broken off from the top of the engine. I was picking little slivers of plastic from it out of the hole in the pic. Fortunately the oil cap actually screwed into the spot where the plastic cylinder had broken out of. Not sure if that's by design but it worked and the car drove ok after.
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Iv got a 2000 passat 1.8t and the shift linkage bracket broke, so i got a new one but my problem is how do i get the linkage cable off the old one, and onto my new one. Is the cable supposed to be able to break into two parts.
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I was checking the oil this morning before getting ready to drive (for an hour) to the in-laws for Christmas, and the Effing orange plastic dipstick tube broke about halfway down. Now I'm afraid to drive for an hour at highway speeds, for fear that a lot of oil might come out of that compromised Effing orange plastic dipstick tube part -- would you all agree that I should not drive the car? Figures this would happen on Christmas Eve when nothing is open.
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In my 2001 Passat, the handle / compartment above the handbrake has a problem - it can be rotated (as to reveal the compartment), but when I want to put it back to horizontal position, I can't, it always leaves a distance of 4-5 cm. I took out the black compartment to see what's inside, and I found out that it gets stuck because when I push the handle down, it doesn't rotate the shaft that holds the teeth (which are in charge of the several "steps" in the handle position) down so that the handle will be able to be put to a full horizontal position. Also, I found a orange-yellow-semi transparent plastic thingy near the teeth of the compartment part, and it was loose, it appears to be broken. Looking for a detailed (exploded) view of the part assembly (like in a Haynes manual)?
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Looks like my timing belt broke. I was taking my car out of the parking lot, and heard the warning chime. I tried to look at the warning light, I think it was the malfunction one. I heard a belt/ fan snap. The engine stalled and I dint try to resart the engine. I had it towed to the dealership and am waiting to hear from them. The engine dint make mucg of a noise but sorta just died. Does this sound like a timing belt? I am worried abt the damage. how much would it cost if it was a timing belt? my car only had 73k miles on it. It is a 2001.5 1.8t.
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Hit a bump in the road, car hiccuped then EPC and MIL illuminated. Scanned it with Carista and showed low fuel pressure. Looked under engine cover... Lo and behold! Connector is plugged in but male portion on regulator is snapped off!!! Needs whole fuel pump assembly at 25,000 miles!
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So I had to replace a front ten signal bulb the other day and with almost no pressure, one of the small plastic tabs on the bulb socket broke off when I was trying to seat the new bulb into the headlight housing. The plastic socket looks like it's own piece that's removable from the wiring harness, but my dealer tells me it comes as a kit with the whole headlight housing and I'd have to replace the whole thing.
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My wife called me on her way to work this morning and said her car(2.0T auto) was not running right and her engine light was on. We had it towed to the dealer and they said that the air cleaner assembly broke and was creating a false air run. The car has 33k miles and he said it was not covered under warrantee because it looks like somebody broke the part based on it being cracked in several areas. Well I haven't touched it and the last one to even open the hood on the car was them, when they had to replace the valve body 3k miles ago. How would that thing even break unless they did it? It was idling at a light, then started shaking and running poorly. I'm going back in tomorrow morning to talk to them about it, but I'm not sure what to say here...what do you think?
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We have a 2007 Passat. The tire pressure sensor broke off at the valve stem. In checking with the dealer, I was told the tire pressure sensor and valve stem are all one unit. My question is if you can use a regular valve stem and attach the sensor to it, or do you have to get the entire unit with the valve stem and sensor together.
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Guess my cables have stretched. I just adjusted my handbrake cables and I noticed no matter how strong I apply the handbrake and it holds the car however on both driver's and passenger side the outside pad does not touch the rotor. I'm guessing that the inside pad moves and holds enough, however, i would like the brakes to operate properly. when is the handbrake applied should both pads apply pressure to the rotor?
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I just purchased a 2005 GT Hatch 5 speed. I've noticed that when I up-shift, it holds the revs. I can live with it if I have to though. This is my 4th car that's a standard so I doubt its user error. Anyway, if you guys think its a feature that I can shut off that would be cool. If not no worries.
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98 sunfire 2.2L
Basically the only way we can get my car to start is by hooking another battery up to it. Like, we plugged the tractor's battery up to it as we were going to jump it, but we didn't turn the tractor on. Then my car would start. The second we take the jumper cables off my battery it will die though. One time it did hold a charge for a minute or two before shutting off.
Also, my battery light is constantly on, even when hooked up to another battery, like the tractor one. We replaced the alternator today (got a brand new one) thinking that was the problem but still no dice. What else could it be? Could it be my battery that's less than 7-8 months old? It shows 11 volts when we put the meter on it. The new alternator is also showing that it's getting charge.
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