Passat (B5) :: Oil Leak Around The Timing Belt
Oct 15, 2011
Over the summer my car started having oil drips under it and it ended up being the valve cover gasket, so I replaced it. I noticed the half circle gasket next to the cam chain tensioner gasket was missing, so I just jammed it in there (didn't have tools/time to get cam chain gasket replaced). Before I changed these gaskets, oil would drip on the back side of the motor (farther from the front). Today I noticed drips of oil in front of the engine. Looking around there is oil in the timing belt area and is dripping down from there. It doesn't look like the VC gasket is leaking.
My question, what would cause oil to drip into/from the TB area?
engine = 1.8t ATW longitude
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I have a 97 Honda Accord with V Tec engine, 2.2L. I have an oil leak that is coming from BEHIND the timing belt cover. I removed the cover and the belts to expose several seals. The oil leak is quite extensive and leaves a good puddle after running the engine, however, it will not leak once I clean up the mess, put the car up on jack stands and disassemble the engine. I cannot tell which seal is leaking and am wondering how to tell which seal is leaking. Is there a way to apply pressure to the engine with air, possibly through the oil dipstick hole to possibly expose the leaking seal?
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Taurus 3.0 Vulcan motor.
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I was driving my 2005 RX 330 (138k miles) North on I-75 through Atlanta in rush hour traffic when the car completely died in the left hand lane w/ no shoulder. GDOT stopped six lanes of traffic to push us up and over a couple of hundred yards to a right shoulder. It was determined that due to a coolant leak from the water pump the timing belt malfunctioned and shredded.
I had heard that the water pump should be replaced during the 90k maintenance when the timing belt is changed, but my water pump was not replaced according to my maintenance records. I understand from reading a couple of posts that this isn't always required but that they do check the water pump. Is this correct? And if so should they have noticed that there was a potential problem?
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hile since i've posted on the Tex. I've got a buddy who's looking at getting a 99 Passater, the car has 110k miles on it and it's the 1.8T. I've been reading a few posts out there about what to look for on these cars and of course maintenance records are at the top of that list. The other things I've been reading about is timing belt (I'm assuming this costs a few dollars to fix) probably should be done at 100k, and some front end suspension parts seem to go bad at an early interval. Anything else that we should look at on this car? It's an AutoTranny, I know the B4's had a horrible AT, I used to own one. Did they fix this pretty well in the B5's?
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OK, so yesterday I changed my timing belt and all new components. I started the car before completely reassembling everything (bumpers, etc.) and it ran a little rough at first, then smoothed out. But this only lasted a few seconds and then it died out. I thought not much about it and finished my reassembly. Afterwards, the car would crank and crank and finally start. However, it would never idle smooth and it stalled out only after 1-2 seconds.
I did some investigation, and found the plugs all had wet oil on them. Changed them out and tried to start car with same results. Looked again at the plugs and they weren't as oily, but on their way. I looked all over for a source of this problem and found a broken "pipe" on the passenger side of the engine. It is black and sits behind a heat shield, directly under a larger black pipe. They both run from front to back. I think the broken one might be a vacuum line of some type, although when I plug it, nothing happens.
My fear is that I botched the timing belt job and subsequently, bent a mess of valves. But, I'm holding out hope for another cause of this dilemma. What is the smaller black tube/pipe on the side of the intake? The broken piece comes off a 90 degree elbow pointing to the ground. I'm guessing it was broken before the timing belt job, but who knows? Perhaps I broke it when I moved the radiator into service mode. Could it be part of the turbo? I thought that might cause the rough idle and stalling.
Oh, one other thing. When I last tried to start the car, I got a flashing "STOP" on the instrument panel, followed by something about the oil. The oil words only appeared for a split second before going away. Not even long enough for me to read the whole sentence.
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