Passat (B5) :: Oil Light And Buzzer Comes On Once Warm
Jun 19, 2010
Picked up a 5spd 98 Passat w/AEB issues... 117K miles
Oil light & buzzer comes on once warm... so I flushed with Mobil syn 0-40W (previous owner was using whatever oil).
Dropped oil pan, changed out oil pump w/Meyle oil pump (good sludge & nice metal shavings)
New Mobil syn 0-40W - engine runs smooth...
Issue.. oil light and buzzer are intermittant, engine runs & sounds great.
Mechanic tells me coil packs can induce noise into electrical and cause nuisance warnings like this.
Rather tentative to drive with oil buzzer & light going on/off... Any way to ensure another trouble free 50K miles
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My wife's 1998 Passat's ABS and Brake lights both comes on along with that beeping buzzer. Everything is norm from start up, but after driving about 10 miles or so the ABS/brake light& buzzer show starts up.
It seems the ABS is working because my wife found a patch of sand in a parking lot and jammed on the brakes while the ABS/brake light& buzzer show was going on. She said she could feel the brakes pumping.
We took it in to the dealer and they check the brake pads and sensors. They said that the sensors and pads were ok. They thought it might have been dirty sensor, so they clean them.
Two days later the ABS/brake light& buzzer show came back. But this time my brakes squeal a little if you press on the brake lightly. (cleaning solution got on the brakes?) Also how big a deal is it installing a new ABS black box ? (where is it?)
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oil light on after warm up. 15 psi at idle, 23 psi at 2500 rpm . will get as high as 28 psi at any rpm above 3500 but no higher. heard of the sludge problem so i added flush and changed oil using amsoil 5w40. this did not change the pressures. when i drained the oil , i poked a wire in the drain hole to try to see if i could drag some sludge out but there did not seem to be any there.
I am thinking the oil screen may be clogged with some harder deposits which would require removal of the oil pan.does this all sound reasonable and what kind of difficulty is the oil pan job. it looks rather tight. this is a 1999 passat 1.8 t with a/t.
One other thought: this vehicle just had a head job after a timing belt break. the valves were replaced etc. i wonder if that could have affected the chain driven oil pump?
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I'm also having an issue with these lights/buzzer on my 2002 since last weekend. Probably about one in every five starts, the brake/ABS warning lights/buzzer come on for around five to ten seconds and then go off. Braking appears to be fine. I'm thinking the brake system is taking too long to pressurize on starting. The car has run fine and brakes have worked fine after this has happened. Brake fluid level is fine. Do these warning lights/buzzer usually stay on, with an issue, or is this intermittent lights upon starting how it normally shows a problem? And yes, I am going to see about finally ordering a mini VCI and also read the blink codes. Dealer is 50 miles from home so I'm trying to figure out what is going on prior to heading that way, as I don't want to have an issue on the drive there.
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I've replaced rusted out brake lines on my 1998 GMC Sierra 1500. I bled the system properly and every thing seems to run fine and brakes good. But the brake warning light stays on in the dash and buzzer is on. What to do to turn these off...
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I just recently purchased a 1984 VW Rabbit convertible. I bought it knowing that the "idiot" light and buzzer for the oil sensor comes on when the engine revs at around 2100 RPMs, and won't shut off until I turn the car off. I replaced the oil sensor however it made no difference. Even when I disconnect the oil sensor unit, the buzzer still turns on!
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I just bought a prius 2007.
I have a unique situation:
•No passenger: light is "Airbag" - No red flashing seat belt sign
•Passenger with seat belt: light is "Airbag" - No red flashing seat belt sign
•Passenger with no seat belt: light is "Airbag" - No red flashing seat belt sign
I have no other warning lights on the dash.
I tried to check to check if there are any loose wires/connectors under the passenger seat but everthing looks ok.
Is there a blown fuse?
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I dont drive my passat in the winter and its been in my garage since it started snowing! i go out and start it up every other day or so and when i do start it up there is no warm up period! it goes straight to idle! ive also noticed that my secondary air pump or saic doesnt kick on either, EXCEPT when it goes into idle so i know it works! all summer just fine, now that its sitting in the garage it will not go into warm up stage!
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So, I get in my car yesterday after being away for the weekend (the car has been sitting for 4 days). I get in and crank the AC and it blows warm air. My first thought was "here we go, I need a new AC compressor". I decided to pull into a driveway and I turned off the car, and then turned it on again. When I restarted the car, the AC kicked in like it is supposed to. Cold air as always. Is this a sign of the AC going out?
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I know last year it was working fine, actually went pretty cold. Yesterday it was 93 degree here in Wisconsin, so thats pretty hot for us. Anyways, It's blowing warm air out, not hot or anything just pretty much outside air (the feel of it atleast) Can this be recharged with free0on or w.e it takes??
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I have a 1998 1.8T with 76k. Lately I've been hearing noise from the suspension. It used to be only when it was warm outside, like something had expanded but now it's all of the time. I don't hear the noise with straight up and down motion of the suspension, i.e. speed bumps. But when slowing down or accelerating I can hear it and sometimes when I hit the right kind of bump, I can hear it. I'm not sure what it is. I've taken it to the dealer about two weeks ago but they couldn't hear it. This was back when it was only doing it during warm weather. I'm going to take it back again, now that it's making all the noise all of the time but I'd like some input so I can tell them where they should look.
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am i supose to read it when the car is warm or when the car is cold? cause when it is cold it says i dont have enough oil but when the car is warm it says i am a little above
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Car is fully warmed up (200 deg) and the vents blast ice cold air even on 84 deg temp setting. If I put it on hi-temp it blasts really hot air (like it should). Why I can't get in between temps? This has been going on for 3 weeks now but not all the time.
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If my car get really hot, it initially blows cold air (the way it should be) for 5-10 minutes, but then it slowly starts blowing warm air until I get the full heater going for about a minute, and then it goes back to cold air, sometimes after 45 minutes the cycle repeats. This does not happen every time, this year I had it happen about 5 times.
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What a strange problem. EVERY EVERY morning the car starts perfect. Once it is warm some of the time (half) it will give a long crank approx 2.5 seconds before it will start. What a stupid problem! I have replaced:
Spark Plugs (NGK G-power) cheaper than stock, supposed to be better.
timing belt, water pump, idler-just matenence
Cam sensors
crank sensor (on tranny)
I checked the wires and coil by hosing them down while running. Vag-com says the temperature sensor is correct. No trouble codes except Secondary Air... What to do
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I have 07 passat.2.0 t.
My call didn't start two days ago, turned out to b dead battery. Got it replaced at local euro shop but now AC is blowing warm air. Called the shop they say, they didn't touch any wiring related to AC.
*could there be anything they forgot to hook back up that's causing this?
* any fuses I can check?
* do our cars need AC recharge?
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Is is best to check the oil in the FSI 2.0T when the engine is warm or cold?
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Having issues with the AC system turning on to blow cold air? The problem seems to be intermittent so I don't know how I would be able to replicate the problem if/when I take the car in for service. My problem typically occurs when I start the vehicle. The AC will be on but will blow warm air. I seem to have to continually play with the HVAC controls for it to finally kick on and blow cold air.
When I searched, I read that the malfunction may be caused by a bad solder in the system but wasn't able to find a concrete resolution to the problem. Should I call a few dealerships to see if the service writers are aware of the issue? Being in AZ, not having AC for the first 5-10 minutes in the car can be brutal. The car in question is a 2014 3.6 SEL ...
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MY 07 passat 2.0t stutters til it warms up. Took it in to vw and they replace the plugs and coils but it still does it. Engine light stays on says 2 cylinder misfires. Its stops after 5 mins but when it sits for awhile it starts again. it has 110,000 miles thought maybe it could be carbon buildup?
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I have an 03 Passat Wagon, 2.8L V6. My wife is getting ready for a big drive tomorrow, about 13 hours. Right now after reaching the operating temperature and then shutting off the coolant is boiling. The temp gauge never goes beyond 190 so it is not overheating but it is getting really warm in the engine compartment.
History: I noticed a couple of days ago that the expansion tank was badly discolored and had some corrosion inside. I know it was because I inadvertently mixed the green stuff with it about 2 months ago. I know it was stupid, but that was before I realized how stupid. Yesterday I drained the coolant and flushed it about 4 times. I couldn't flush it completely because I couldn't get at the drain next to the transmission fluid pan. I just drained it from the front outlet.
I refilled the system by disconnecting the expansion tank and holding it up until fluid came out of the hole on the hose going into the firewall. Then I was going to bleed it from the bleeder screw in the rear coolant pipe (as listed in Haynes manual) but could not find it. I even have the photo in the book to guide me and it is not there. Since I couldn't find it I skipped to the bleeder valve by the serpentine belt. I bleed that and hooked it all back up.
Now my fluid boils. I know it isn't the expansion tank cap because I took the one from my Jetta and put it in and it does the same thing. I put the cap from the Passat in the Jetta and it doesn't cause that coolant to boil. After driving today for a half hour the engine compartment felt superheated. Even the fenders were hot to the touch. It is almost 90 outside but it still felt unusually hot in the engine compartment. I would like for my wife to drive this on her road trip instead of the Jetta, but I can't let her do that with this problem.
I think I must not have bleed the system very well. The heater works and the temp gauge never goes above 190.
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I have a very annoying problem with my new (to me) 2003 Passat, when warm it tends to ping under what i would consider normal load, it's more apparent after it changes gear (auto) and also if you are traveling down the road you give the gas an extra tickle.
It soon shuts up but pinging is not a good thing any time. The car has 45000 miles so is barely broken in.... It also suffers from what i consider to be a lazy transmission which tends to make it a little worse.
I am using the recommended super grade of fuel and have tried different fuels to see if it is biased.
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