Passat (B5) :: Not Getting Any Heat At All In 2000 V6
Feb 3, 2007
My neighbors brother has a 2000 Passat v6 4 motion. (Climatronic) Here's the issue... the car has NO HEAT!!! and its cold out side. Last night we tore the lower dash part down to see the air box, when you adjust from hot to cold the servo is moving but were not getting any heat at all. The hoses going into the heater care are hot... there are no leaks.... also tried changing the climatronic unit itself and got no where.... I have a 3 hr drive home later this afternoon.
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So, for a couple of weeks my g/f's Passat has had no heat. The blower fan runs and the AC works but the heat is non-existent. Fast forward to this morning and now all of a sudden her heat miraculously works again. The car has 170k miles on the clock and had the timing belt and water pump done around 120k miles. The thermostat I'm not too sure about. I don't know when (if ever) the system has had a coolant flush so I plan on doing that this weekend. Is it okay to use something other than the G12 VW originally put in it?
At first I thought maybe her heater core was clogged but if it is I don't understand why the heat would start working again. Any tutorial on how to flush this motor properly and how to access the heater core lines so I can try to clear it? On my car it's a piece of cake but her VW stumps me sometimes.
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Have no heat, the a/c works fine, ran the diag. and got codes 1262,1265,1947, and 5041, I don't even know where to begin.
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I have a '02 Accent with a 1.6L. Over the summer the A/C blew ice cold. I changed all the belts and after a few weeks I noticed that whenever I turned on the heat or A/C the car squeaked. After that I saw that the compressor would stop spinning whenever the squeaks happen. I sprayed the pulley and clutch with silicone spray and it worked great for a day then the same problem again. Eventually I snapped the A/C belt, replaced the idler pulley, and the tensioner bolt but still the same problem. What it could be?
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My heater seems to not be blowing as much hot air as it used to in my 01 Accent GS 1.6 L. The air is warm, but it is not warm like it is supposed to be. All selectors work well eg. fan speed and temp selector. Engine is running normal operating temps too. So in the end, it takes forever to get warm in the car, and to keep it nice and warm, it has be on fan speed 3. if not, the car will lose the warm air faster than it can push it out.
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I have a 2000 Regal LS that has no heat. The cooling system is full of water. The heater hoses are warm. The fan blow lots of air and the speeds can be changed by the heater controls. The heater controls light up and you can change the fan speeds. My guess is the control doors are not working. What should I check to figure out what is wrong.
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I'm having the same issue as many others with the heat blowing cold air. I have read through the other post ad tried the blend door, actutator, vaccine lines, control ***, and both lines going in and out are hot to touch when warmed up. I am now lost!
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My heat shield was loose and my dealer said it should be fine, but then it stormed and driving home I ran over a branch and when I got home I noticed the heat shield was ripped and dragging on the ground. It is pretty torn up and I'm thinking of just taking it off. Am I allowed to take it off? If so how should I go about taking it off?
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I have searched many threads and seem to be confused. I have a 2000 excursion and unsure of exact plugs. I currently have the paddle mirrors that are heated and powered, and want to get the tow mirrors with heat and power. They don't need to have signals or power telescoping or folding. As long as they can manually fold. What is a good reliable mirror that will fit what I need?
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This noise has me stumped. The frequency of noise seemed like the sway bar bushing. I fixed these and still making noise. Almost sounds like a something vibrating against the heat shield, but nothing. Seems to be front right. in the last year replaced the upper bearing struts. Shocks 4 years old. I have pushed the brakes and sound does not go away. In fact some days i drive the car and there is no noise. I just lowered the car. 132k
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2003 Civic, ~180,000 miles. Previously had overheat problems, replaced head gasket, timing belt, water pump, thermostat and hoses (+ a few other things) No longer over heating, but there is no heat coming from the vents unless the car is over 2,000 rpm. Hoses to the heater core are both warm/hot, so flow through heater core seems to be good. Also AC has same issue no cold air unless over 2,000 rpm. Is this the control to the blend door? Are they operated by vacuum and with a leak, need higher vacuum to operate?
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2000 Echo, I noticed the other day the heat was half as warm as it should be. The blower is still moving air the same as it always has. The upper radiator hose is hot, the lower is cold. About the same temp as the air in the 30's. The line going in to the heater core and coming out are both really warm. I thought is was the thermostat so I had it replaced to day by a local shop who does good work. The problem persists with the same symptoms. The car has yet to have the high temp light come on.
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Ford - no front heat - 2000 Windstar - actuator
My Dad's 2000 Ford Windstar van stopped putting out heat to any front vents. I was able to hear a rhythmic thumping sound when the heat control slider was placed in the hot position. I looked for info on line, and found many posts that said the actuator was probably the issue. I also went back and asked my Dad if before the thumping sound he had heard anything else, and he confirmed he had heard some gear grinding noises, which others have reported as the actuator is starting to grind and slip its internal gears. If the actuator is not working correctly, it won't hold the heater duct door in the open position, which means you can't get any hot air.
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I have a '06 2.0T Auto, and the first cold day since I purchased the car was a week ago (I live in North FL) and turned on the heat, to find out that little to no heat was getting let out, so I brought it to my local guy, and said that the thermostat was probably stuck open, so he replaced the thermostat and housing for a couple hoses , and tested out the heat just now (55 degrees out), have it on 80 degrees and full blast, and still nothing. Also, usually I hear the cooling fan kick on after I shut off the car for about 5-10 secs, but haven't heard it since its not 90+ out. Its in the 70s.
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Having problem of not getting any heat from the vents of the car? The fan works and more than likely it isn't the Thermostat. The engine also heats up normally, it's just that the air the blows out of the vents does not get hot anymore and it's getting to be fall.
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I cant find my original post but I am reporting back on a low heat output issue. Not the climate door. It was the heater core clogging up. Instead of replacing, this is what I did. Purchased a "drill pump" and some clear hose and some CLR. Cut both the heater hoses,taking consideration of where best to install "T" connectors.
While hoses disconnected,filled heater core with CLR(as much as I could get in it). Hooked clear hose,drill pump configuration,on to the heater hoses. Ran drill pump in both directions for several minutes and stopping and letting it sit for a few minutes.
About 1 hour all together. Pieces of debris came out of the heater core and I could see it through the clear hose. Flushed the heater core out. Installed "T" connectors and it is heating very well now.
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I go to turn the heat on in my car for the defrosters the other day and the heat wasn't turning on. No the slightest bit warm, would this be a thermostat problem or a heater core?
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The other morning I started my car up and no heat or air would come out of my vents. The night before I had to drive through a blizzard and my car was completely packed with snow. The climate controls function normally, everything is lighting up when i select a button, but no air is coming out of the vents (rear defrost and seat warmers work fine). There is no sound of the blower starting when I turn the air on, hot or cold. I live in Northeast Ohio so we currently have several inches of snow and it's well below freezing outside. I live in an apartment so my car is outside 24/7 between being here and at work. I looked up a bunch of posts on here and other websites to try to figure it out. I ended up taking my cabin filter out and it is completely packed with snow. So i vacuumed out the snow that was left in the cabin filter housing as far as i could reach. I also unpacked as much snow as possible from wheel wells seeing as the HVAC vent goes to there, and the blower still doesn't work.
What I am guessing, which I could be completely wrong, is that the HVAC vent is completely packed with snow and it's not letting the blower turn. I guess my question is does that seem remotely possible or is it something else completely? My climate control doesn't work on the highest setting so I don't think its the relay I read about and my heater has been working fine with no noises or anything and I don't believe it would just go bad out of the blue.
2012 Passat SE 2.5
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I've got a 2001 4 motion passat and I am not getting any heat out of any vents.
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Why my Passat will not put out any heat when idling? I recently had some body work done (right front fender replaced) and it seems like this has started to happen...any possibility they didn't hook up some line...???
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I have a 2000 yukon and the climate control stopped working. The defrost works just fine but the heater/ac stopped working nothing blows out from my vents when ac/heater setting is on. I checked all fuses and wires and everything is ok and connected. I just replaced my cd player and the next day climate control stopped working. I went back and checked the wireing of the cd player as well, everything is fine. Would i need a new climate control, or senser or is there a fuse on the heater itself.
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