Passat (B5) :: No Start / Engine Has Zero Compression
Dec 2, 2007
Picked up a 2001 Passat today, it doesn't run. At first I thought it was a timing belt and I was prepared to fix it, but it's NOT the timing belt.. The belt looks good. The car turns over with no interference, I took the valve cover off and everything looks fine. But, the engine has ZERO compression.. it turns over with ease, and a compression tester doesn't even register. The car has the following codes:
16486 P0102 163
Mass Air Flow Circuit -G70: Low Input [Sporadic]
16395 P0011 035
A Camshaft Position (Bank 1): Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance
16712 P0328 163
Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Bank 1 -G61: High [Sporadic]
16717 P0333 035
Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Bank 2 -G66: High
17733 P1325 035
Cylinder 1-Knock Control: limit attained
17735 P1327 035
Cylinder 3-Knock Control: limit attained
17734 P1326 035
Cylinder 2-Knock Control: limit attained
16725 P0341 035
Camshaft Position Sensor (A) Circuit Bank 1: Range/Performance
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Initially I brought the car in for repair because the engine was cuting out at higher speeds so they replaced all 4 coil packs and did an oil change.
After 50+miles of driving it was taken home. Later on we tried to start the car and it wouldn't start. The car has power and it cranks.
We then bring it back to the shop and they say there is no compression. I suspect conventional oil was used.
Would the wrong oil cause my problems? 2008 VW Passat Turbo...
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Valves are stuck, no compression! Head needs to be pulled apart according to mechanic...
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So today I hop in my car to run a few quick errands. 2004 V8 4.2ltr. Turns over but does not start. Sounds odd as well. Call a buddy he comes over and plugs in his laptop, the only codes were maf and fuel rail. He turns it over and says, "sounds like no compression" we pull the left cam cover and sure enough the timing belt is loose. The tensioner appears to have failed. I am going to pull the front end off and replace the belt and tensioner.
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With vehicle engines in the past, I have used a compression check as a fundamental part of routinely checking the wear on an ICE. My usual method was disconnecting the ignition, removing spark plugs, inserting the compression gauge line in a spark plug hole, and turning over the engine with the starter. How exactly do I do that sequence with a Gen 3 Prius?
If that method is not feasible, would a "leak down" method of checking compression such as we did on old aircraft engines possibly work with the Prius ICE? To do that I would have to be able to carefully position the crankshaft so that the intake and exhaust valves were fully closed on each cylinder in turn. What is the safe method to do that with the Prius ICE?
Exactly what the compression reading should be? I am assuming that if the engine is spun at 1000 rpm by MG1, the correct reading would be 13 to 1 or 13.5 to 1. Or?
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I have 2004 f150 small v8 (4.7?) Has about 92000 miles.
When warm truck runs excellently. At first start up the idle is very rough and raw gas smell for about 4 minutes then truck runs like new. Will start and restart great until it cools down overnite.
My actron says missfire cyl 3. Did not fix it. Dealer says that on start up compression is zero in cylinder three but is 100% when it warms up. Suggested I run seafoam through it. He thinks it has a vacuum leak or carbon at start.
In my limited knowledge I am thinking:
sticky lifter
bent push rods
warp valve
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I had My VW tiguan 2011, Died all of a sudden, where went to supermarket and went out and the car is not starting at all.
So next morning had it towed to the dealership for investigation. Now after a week of tests and investigation and replacement of Fuel HP pump @ the engine still not working.
They did pressure test, and surprise came "no compression on all 4 cylinders".
They will need to open the engine and do further investigation. Hope it's just a gasket leakage
The car is still less than 5 years and mileage is 174K km, just made oil top up and general checks few days before the incident. all services @ dealership if not on-time, before time.
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I have a 2005 Toyota 4Runner. 355,000 miles. No problems with it until now. About 2 weeks ago Check Engine Light came on. I replaced spark plugs (they were due), checked coils and fuel injectors and still have Check Engine Light on with code P0301 (Cylinder #1 missfire).So compression tests were done and cylinder #1 had 120 psi and others 170. I suppose 120 isn't terribly bad but is significantly lower than 170.
Question 1: If I reset the check engine light (turn it off), do you think it will pass California smog test?
Question 2: What do I need to cure the problem? Engine rebuild? JDM? or retire the truck?
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Started having some crank no starts intermittently. Scanned and found codes for cam sensor. so I was in a pinch and a hurry on a sunday so I picked up a BWD brand cam sensor from parts store and installed. I have not seen this issue since but started noticing other thing going on. I noticed a few weeks ago my truck was starting a little strange. as it would spin over before firing off, it didn't sound right. I couldn't pinpoint if it was due to slightly low compression on one cylinder or one cylinder had a little fuel or oil in it and that one cylinder was actually firing while cranking over.
I also was noticing a little longer crank times than normal. didn't matter if engine was cold or hot. sometimes would fire up quick and sometimes it took a few seconds. most of the time I couldn't catch it on my scanegauge if the ICP was low due to the lag on the scangauge.
Well one day on my way home from work (50 miles one way) I stopped about half way to fuel up. after filling up and attempted to restart the truck it really acted like it didn't want to start but did after cranking for about at least 10 seconds and started rough. and of corse my scangauge decied to hate me this day because it would show any data until I unplugged it and plugged it back in. so started home. felt like it had a very very light miss on the way home. when I slowed down to turn onto my road the truck died. took forever to get it to start back up. this time the scangauge was reading and I could see ICP was between 300-400 and IPR was 85%. so low pressure and not reaching the 600 needed to fire. once it started I limped it home. scaned it with my Auto Enginuity and it didn't show any codes.
So that much I can see I have a leak on the HPO system. but I done a lot of work to the truck about 2-3 years ago. roughly 80k-100k miles since the work. what I done included...
OEM oil cooler
OEM (updated)dummy plugs, standpipes & STC fitting
OEM head gaskets and ARP studs
BPD EGR cooler (I should have deleted)
ALL other engine gaskets(Bed plate, oilpan, front&rear cover, ect.)
OEM glow plugs and harness
OEM blue spring upgrade
Cleaned turbo veins
2 OEM REMAN injectors. (cant remember which two) had contribution codes one on each side.
This is all I can remember right now. Now have yall seen the updated dummy plugs and standpipes leak? I have not pulled valve covers to air test the HPO system yet.(don't have my air compressor at my new house yet). Here is what I have done so far:
Fully charged batteries.
I did do a bubble test. pulled upper fuel filter cover off and removed filter topped the bowl off and turned engine over using the wire by the passenger side battery. some bubbles but not a bubble bath.
Checked fuel pressure (not running) its 60psi. did not start truck because I need a different fitting so I can run the truck and check pressure while running.
while doing the bubble test I could hear that one cylinder is low on compression. but I do not have any misfire or contribution codes.
when I ran contribution test on AE its not showing any particular cylinder lower than the rest. but the line is not very solid at all.
Here is what I plan to do.
Compression test on each cylinder.
Looking at the Harbor freight kit. Looks like it has fittings for glow plug and injector holes.
If I can do compression test on both glow plug and injector holes this should show weather my injector orings are the cause of the low compression.
Then I have to airtest the HPO system and find the leak.
Am I on the right track? what else should I check? Guess I should add that the truck currently has 297K miles.
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Does this sound like a choke issue? The car starts up fine and runs like a top. It even drives normally for about a mile, but then as the engine warms up it starts losing compression when I press the gas pedal. The engine runs fine when my foot isn't on the gas, but stutters and won't go anywhere when I'm pressing the gas.
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Our beloved 2004 Subaru Forester has the check engine light on. We've been told that the 4th cylinder has either low or no compression. Is this fixable/worth fixing? Would you replace the engine? The car has 183K miles on it, and runs great! It is stuttering now, due to this issue, but otherwise - runs great and is in good condition!
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I just posted on here a few weeks ago about a flashing engine light possibly caused by low compression getting worse. And it was determined that a used engine would be the way to go because the rings were so bad. Since then I did some research and found that low compression can also be caused by coked rings. I did have a wet compression test done that pointed to the rings as the culprit. But is it possible that the low compression is not bad rings but coked rings instead and that something like Auto-RX might might be worth a try? Is there any way to test for coked rings or are the results from the wet compression test enough proof that the rings are bad without a doubt?
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I have a 2005 Corolla with 78,000 miles. The other day it stalled at a stop sign and wouldn't start. I got it towed to the repair shop and they called me the next day with the following:
1. Under the back seat is a fuel compression module. This has gone bad. They need to take out the seat, order the part, install new.
2. The belt that drives the accessories motor (or something like that, don't recall the exact phrasing) is worn, cracking, and probably going to break. Needs replacing. Battery is corroding and needs replacing.
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About a week ago I was driving my Pontiac 2003 Grand Am V6 and it began to violently shake and the "check engine light" came on and started blinking. I then immediately took it to the mechanic It has been with the mechanic for 6 days and they were unable to locate the problem. They called me today and I was told that I have no compression in one of the cylinders (I have done business with them before and felt comfortable in that I wasn't being taken advantage of). Also, is there any problems in the future with getting a cylinder replaced i.e. other parts of the engine that might correlate?
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2006 Subaru B9 Tribeca, 160,000 miles. Misfire throws check-engine light twice daily, compression leak, getting worse. Valve job? or trade?
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My 2004 F-150 5.4 has a rattling noise coming from the passenger side of the engine when at operating temperature. The cam phasers and all related parts have been replaced. The reason I was prompted to change the phasers, chains, guides and tensioners was due to the engine stopping on me as I returned home from an errand. The engine had already shown signs of needing the phasers replaced.
The engine runs very smooth while warming up. Vehicle lacks power and has a rough idle after warm. Took the truck to a local mechanic, in the process of making a diagnosis, he performed a compression test. Cylinder 3 psi was much lower than the other 7 cylinders, the mechanic recommended replacing the engine (possible bent valve).
I have a Haynes manual, have searched youtube and checked this and similar forums, I have yet to find instructions on the removal of the head from the block.
(2004 Ford F-150 5.4 3v)....
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I have a 2013 Passat TDI with remote starter, when I start the car it runs until I unlock the doors and then the engine shuts off, I know there is something I am doing wrong but can't seem to find the information in the manual on how to keep the engine running.
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I have a 2008 FSI engine and I have a chirping noise when I start the car and the engine is cold. The noise goes away when the engine is warmed up. This noise has been like this for a very long time (more than two years) and I was not seriously concerned about this until I found the below video which has exactly the same noise.
The owner in the below video says that the timing belt and the belt tensioner had to be replaced and that his engine was only at 26K miles. I am at 46K miles right now but I definitely had this noise when I was around 20K miles as well.
[URL] .....
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I just bought a used 1998 VW Passat and everything seemed to be working fine until today. I drove the car up the road to get some food, went inside and not even 30 minutes later came back out to get in my car to go to work and the car wouldn't start. I turn the key and push in the clutch like normal and nothing happens except for the lights inside on the dash come on, but the engine doesn't begin to turn over or anything. The emergency flashers in the dash begin to flash automatically, don't know if that has anything to do with it.
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She has a 2000 Passat. This has kind of been a recent problem where we would turn the key, hear a single click, and nothing would happen. After a few tries the engine would finally start. This has been going on for a few weeks. Now, it just won't start. The car only has 55k miles on it. Starter motors don't die after so few miles do they? I was going to check the battery first though.
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When I turn the key to start the engine, it makes the sound (I don't know what to call it) that it makes before the engine actually starts but it just keeps doing that. The dash has the battery light on in red so I think that might be the problem. It also flashed "STOP" at me on the dash so I stopped fiddling with it.
The dealership is only a few blocks away but they are closed until tuesday. What is usually the problem in this case? I know almost nothing about how cars work.
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