Passat (B5) :: No Power When Pulling Out Of Parking Spot / Brake Lights Stayed Lit
Jun 3, 2006
I have a 2003 Variant V6, 34,000 miles - I was pulling out of a parking spot and the car had no "power". but eventually it kicked in..then when I got home I noticed that the brake lights stayed lit...no problem, I pulled the fuse so the battery wold not run out...put the fuse back in for the ride to the dealer, but a block out and again no power - depressing the gas pedal had no effect. Could these be related? The cars been at the dealer all day, they have no clue so far. I had the fuel pump replaced under recall...could it be some sort of electrical problem.
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I just got my new 2011 Prius a week ago and still getting used to it. Yesterday I was pulling out of a parking spot in Reverse when the ICE came on and I felt a slight jolt in the transmission when it happened. Is this normal or should I get it checked out?
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My daughters 2010 Sonata has a occasional problem that is very disturbing. When she is slowly pulling into a a parking spot or into her garage, the car will make a lurch forward. Just a quick acceleration and then back to normal. So far she hasn't damaged anything but its just a matter of time. She has taken it to a neighborhood independent garage.
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Does it harm the emergency brake to use it instead of the foot brake to slow while gliding into a parking spot?
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Car makes a whining type noise when I start it and turn the wheels to pull out of parking spot. Once car is warmed up, the sounds is gone. Is this the power steering?
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I have a 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera with 235,000 miles which last summer started to lose power going up hills and then stalled when I pulled into a parking spot. After sitting 20-30 minutes car restarted and drove fine. At the time a mechanic recommended tune up and replace fuel filter. Because money was tight, I could only replace the fuel filter, which actually improved driving performance.
But a few months later, when I started the car the idle was very rough, at 35-40mph the car felt like it was driving over those street cut outs, acceleration capability dropped...got a tune up but it hardly fixed the problem. Mechanic thought the ignition module was bad, but a new one didn't cure the rough idle. Fuel pressure was normal and the injectors seem to be working fine.
Since the tune up, there's strong gas smell outside the car (lessens after engine runs a while), gas consumption has dramatically increased, and the engine shuts off repeatedly when slowing to turn into a parking spot or turning car around in the street. This winter cold killed my battery so the first thing I need is a new battery, after that then what? Should I get a compression test? What could be causing these engine performance problems?
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So I'm coming home from the gym and the truck is running fine all the way until i get to my apartment and I notice its vibrating more than usual and as I am turning into my parking spot the truck starts running really rough, like when idling in drive it doesn't just go forward it lurches forward and then the rpm drops and then lurches forward and then the rpm drops.. Know what I am saying? I was low on fuel (light had just came on) so I was worried maybe i was running out of fuel (kind of seemed like it) and turned the truck off immediately because I didn't want to run it out of fuel.
Went to the gas station got a 5 gallon can and filled it up with diesel turn it on and its still running rough, like when you put your hand over the exhaust its not a constant flow but more like a puff puff puff and you can hear it too, I tried again this morning thinking maybe it would magically go away but nope still the same thing, if i put it in drive and try and let it idle it struggles even more. Should I be worried about letting it run or driving it while its running bad? I was thinking maybe it would go away if i let it idle for a while? but I don't want to ruin anything so i just turned it off.
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I am coming out of a loaded Treg that had its footwell lights on low while driving the car, which I really liked. While my new B6 also has footwell lights they turn off once the car is started up. Is there any way to get the footwell lights to stay on from the MFI? Can it be VAGGED? Or is there no way to do this?
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1998 Passat 1.8t B5 sedan. OEM fog lights up front. No rear fog lights.
I recently upgraded to a "Euro" light switch to get more flexibility with my lights. Put tape on the TFL pin to disable DRLs in OFF Mode. Put tape on the 56d pin to disable DRLs in CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights) mode. Completely successful -- no DRLs, just as taping the TFL pin on the original light switch accomplished long ago.
BEFORE I did any taping this time, I installed the Euro switch AS IS and tested all of its modes and physical positions:
(1) OFF: No fog light position available (switch knob will not pull out). As expected and okay.
(2) FULL ON Fog lights come on (but who the hell can see them?!?) when switch knob is pulled out one stop into the fog light position -- and the little front fog symbol on the switch lights up. Again, expected and just fine.
(3) CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights): The fog lights position is physically available by pulling the switch knob out one stop... BUT THE PARKING LIGHTS DO NOT COME ON (regardless of ignition switch position, emergency hand brake position, etc., etc.) And the little fog light symbol on the switch does not light up. (Not surprisingly, pulling the knob further out to the REAR fog light position does nothing either.)
THIS IS NOT GOOD - since with a Euroswitch one ought to be able to manually select and de-select the fog lights while in CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights) mode!
How to make my FRONT FOG LIGHTS available in Euroswitch CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights) mode...?
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I was pulling out of a parking lot making a sharp turn when all the sudden I lost my power steering. I have a '94 Ford Ranger manual transmission. It didn't make any sounds. I was going to try to keep adding power steering fluid to it and try to get it home to my mechanic in my hometown - but it drips constant liquid when I drive it down the street (you can see drips) so I don't think that's possible. I've read a lot on here about gear boxes failing, but would this cause it to leak even if the truck wasn't running? (the puddle builds quickly when its just sitting there, engine off). I took it to a mechanic (I don't have tools), and they said they can't say anything for sure until they look around, it could be seals or a new gear box.
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So a few weeks ago my car stalled when I was backing out of a parking spot. It then continued to stall when I was trying to drive through the parking lot. I chalked it up to being low on gas. When I got on the highway it stopped doing it. Then I filled up with gas and it continued to stall while going from a stop position. There is gas and when I go to shift from Reverse to Drive it stalls out when I push the gas. It is almost as if the fuel is not coming through but if I punch it then it does not stall. I've had a number of car issues in the past and I've never experienced anything like this before.
This is an automatic 2003 BMW 330xi.
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We've been noticing that upon pulling into and out of our parking spot, there has been water puddles and upon close inspection today after pulling our car into the parking spot, I looked under and saw water dripping. This is possibly A/C-related because we are running the climate control on auto every time we drive? Our car is brand new and has about 400kms on it.
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The problem occurs intermittently... about once every few months. The hand brake would be loose (no click) pulling the handle up to engage. If I pull the handle up and down many times, somehow it would return to normal.! I searched my Bentley manual but didn't see any page about the hand brake mechanism. Passat 2002, 1.8t...
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I've been hearing a popping noise occasional when reversing into a parking spot for about a year no, its like 3-8 pops each time. I looked at the CV joints and the rubber hosing is intact. I am pretty sure this particular noise now is not ball joints squeaking.
How long can I let this slide without replacing. Is the CV joint sold as one whole piece?
BTW I'm checking out the 2013 Sante-Fe....
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Having a slight issue with my 2004 Camry. I've noticed when reversing out of a perpendicular parking spot the car seems to cluck when I am turning my way out. It always clunks twice, it feels as if I am reversing over a slight bump. It doesn't happen every time and it only seems to clunk when I am reversing out of a spot. I feel it throughout the car rather than hearing any odd noises. The lots I park in are smooth so I know it can't be the lots.
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I recently had a Car alarm/remote start installed in my van and it seems that every now and then my ABS Light and Parking Brake Light come on while driving but if i shut the van off the lights all go out and don't come back on for a few days then it's the same thing. I also changed the front brakes right before i had the install done so i don't know maybe i did something or maybe it was the shop i am thinking it was the shop as they seemed pretty incompetent and could not to this day (3 weeks/19hrs shop time (8hr+3hr+8hrs)) get the alarm to function right.
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Suddenly all these lights came on in a 2012 Elantra . Had at the dealer and they checked wheel speed sensors, wiring to sensors and said all those are ok and the abs module is bad. I replaced the module, bled the brakes and the exact same lights are still on with the same codes coming up. Tech is confused as I am.
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My son parked the car and I noticed the brake lights were on. After depressing and releasing the pedal a few times the lights go off, then 2 or 3 seconds later, they're back on even when the pedal is released. This happened all of a sudden. I'll pull the switch in the morning and test it, but what else could it be but the switch, right?
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I drive a 94 Pontiac sunbird LE, and recently I was driving up to a stop sign and just about stopped when the brake pedal went straight to the floor. I pumped the brakes a few times and they were fine again. Then the next time I started up the car the abs and parking brake lights were on, and stayed on for 4 days. Just the other day the same thing happened again. What is going on?
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Had my car parked outside of work for about 12 hours yesterday, and in the NYC cold front, the parking break must have stuck on slightly. When I started to move, despite the fact I'd released the parking break, I received a warning in the MFI that said PARKING BREAK FAILURE TO RELEASE. I pulled the handle again and heard it pop just a little more off. Everything worked great after that. If I hadn't received the alert I probably would have driven off with it on. I'd probably have noticed the hesitation and checked the break again, but the alert was useful. Some of the warnings in the MFI can appear to be a pain at times, but it's amazing how thorough a job VW has done monitoring the cars systems and giving real time information if something doesn't work. You just have to make sure you don't get info overload from it all!!
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I drive a 2007 camry hybrid. i live where there is a lot of snow and unfortunately my only place to park is in the street. last winter, a couple of times i had an incredibly difficult time getting my car to move because the 'automatic traction control' would engage as i tried to pull out of the parking spot. there was a decent amount of snow, but if this automatic feature hadn't engaged, i would have been fine.
I know in the newer models, there is a button to push near the steering wheel that turns off this function. this is not the case with my car. is there any other way i can disengage this function?
In my haste last year i quickly read a couple of other messages suggesting i go through a series of depressing/releasing the brakes, followed by turning on/off the car etc etc (like a video-game cheat code!), however i had no luck.
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