2000 B5 Variant V6 4motion / tip .. Randomly experiencing " no crank " when trying to start , sometimes after a few re-tries the dash icons re-appear and motor cranks & fires up. At other times no joy , leave it for 1 or 3 hrs. , re-starts normally . Also tried starting in "N" instead of "P" , and have cleaned battery terminals and load tested the battery ( all good )..
View 1 RepliesI have a 1995 Camry 2.2 that will run perfect for 2 weeks, them randomly it won't start unless you crank on it for a minute or so. Parts I have replaced are fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil. This problem has occurred when the engine has been at operating temp and at initial start up.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Excursion 7.3 Diesel that is having a starting issue. Have replaced the batteries, has new glow plugs, common failing cam position sensor replaced once already. It runs great when it starts, no codes. It will crank, but not turn over at random times. Will do this for 3 or 4 tries...charge the batteries, go back later to start and it will on the second try. Turn it off, try again..and back to cranking, but not starting. Not fun having to worry about being stranded somewhere. Absolutely desperate at this point.
View 4 RepliesMy son has a 1999 VW Passat Wagon with a 1.8 turbo 230,000 miles. He came home from work, parked his car and the next morning for school it did not start. He inserted the key and turned it and the engine would not crank. All dash lights worked and such. He did notice the power window were not working and the interior lights either. He jump the car and worked fine, until he shut it off, and again needed a jump to start.
I looked at it, battery and alternator tested fine, battery is only a year old. the car now randomly will start on it own or not, even with a jump. I had no codes pop up on the computer scan. I am hearing things like climate control module and another fuel module in trunk and water issues. I was told to check connect at starter and change iginition switch. Have not done the ignition switch yet will need to get car up on block for starter as my son has lowered the car quite a bit. I had the computer codes checked by a VW tech and he seems stumped too.
I got a friend 1999 Passat 1.8L with 160K miles. Every now and then it won't fire. (turns and turns but won't crank) notices odor of gas. Go away for 10-30mins car starts just fine. The car runs great! turbo still kicks in and pulls hard.
I have checked :
-fuel pressure = good (I check it a while back and I don't remember the numbers but they were good)
-voltage at the fuel pump
-fuel pump relay
-for leaks in the intake (none found)
-voltage at the battery
I have replaced :
-Fuel filter
-Sparkplugs (NGK's)
-Air filter (his old one looked like it hasn't been changed in 25K miles )
-all vacuum hoses
The only thing that is broken is the check valve (located right between the air box and firewall on the passenger side) I plugged it for now. (yes it is throwing a code for the evap system but that is the only one). I don't know what else to check and I haven't seen any other common problems on the net that are related. Note the timing belt does need to be replaced. he's saving up for a timing belt kit.
I just bought a 2000 VW passat GLS 1.8T, and I'm having a very odd problem with it... I have trouble starting it, almost like the starter is going out, then it starts and runs fine, then I'll be driving and the screen on the gauge cluster will say stop and I'll start getting a beep, if I don't stop the car dies, if I do then it just sort of putters for a second and then goes back to normal, when it dies it loses all power completely everything shuts off then it resets. At first I thought it was the starter, then it started doing this.
View 2 RepliesWell, this is the second time this has happened. After filling up the car I went to start her and she would crank, but wouldn't start. I waited about 30 second tried again and gave it some gas and it cranked for about 3 or 4 seconds after giving it the gas and it finally started. I've only filled up twice now and this is the second time it has happened. Took the car into the dealership for a check engine light last week and it said there was a large leak. They believe it was the gas cap (because I also had the gas cap light come on).
View 8 RepliesMy 03' Passat 1.8 won't start. It turns over and cranks. When I'm doing that, all the lights on the dash flash off and on (including hazards), the overhead light flashes and I can hear a click, click in the same time as the flashing. Seems like it must be some sort of electrical problem. Maybe a bad relay or fuse.
View 1 Replieswell for a few days the car woudln't start every 10 times or so , i'd turn it back and forth a few times and it would kick over , then tonight wife took it and it just wouldn't start so i went and picked her up and tried it about a 100 times and called a tow truck
so what does everyone think it is, everything else is normal but the no crank. ignition switch maybe? I'm going to try and pop the clutch after it gets here, i didn't have the room or distance to try it where it was
I have a 1999 4DR V6 Passat and today was not my day. I got to work around 8am this morning, and parked. Forgot my window was down, so I turned the ignition on to roll up the driver's side window like normal, and the window does not go up. In fact, no window will go up or down. I have full power, from what I can tell. All lights work, radio works, AC works, etc... Door locks and my alarm doesn't work either.
This also boggled my mind; the car wont start?!? The car won't even crank. It doesn't even want to try to start. This all happened at the same time. What could have happened? The battery has 12.8 volts and the car drove fine on the 1 hour commute. I disconnected the battery and reconnected hoping to reset anything that may have happened. But that didn't work.
As description says no start and crank . when tested battery is good . automatic trans push button starter??
View 2 RepliesMy problem is on my gf's 99 Passat. Its the 1.8t and runs and drives fine. The abs/brake light is blinking which from reading seems common and I have to send that module out to be rebuilt. The issue I am having right now is every once and a while it wont start. It will crank and crank and finally start like a minute later. She's convinced pumping the gas pedal works but I don't think its fuel related at all as it smells flooded when it finally starts. Ive replaced the plugs, air filter and still does same thing.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 Passat 2.0t Sedan. My wife broke the front engine mount this morning and now it will crank, but will not start. Put my code reader on it and it is throwing camshaft position sensor, misfire cyl. 4, fuel rail pressure low, and Mass Air Flow sensor codes. It looks like the insert of the mount is wedged against the belt. Would the engine mount being broken cause any of these codes for some reason? and would the mount against the belt cause it to not start?
View 6 RepliesI own a 1994 Chevy Beauville. 12 passenger G-30 (1 ton) with 48k on the 305 V-8. Starting last year I have had problems starting it. At first it was just having to crank it 5 or 10 times. This was random, sometimes weeks would go by with no problems. But it became more frequent as the year wore on. Then twice, while driving, the motor shut off. The check engine light would come on and it would take the usual 5 to 10 cranks it start it. By the time I got to the local garage the light would be off and the set codes would show nothing likely to fix.
Continued this year so finally left it at shop for a week. Not once did it act up, so rolled the dice and installed a rebuilt distributor last week. Took it for a drive yesterday and after 15 miles of driving the motor shut off twice within a mile. Would not restart so had it towed back to garage. Several codes where set so they started looking. Spark tester showed no spark so they put on a test coil and it started right up. Switched back to my coil and, of course, it started right up. They checked for voltage drop but it's ok. Also checked for loose wires. Now when they start it, it runs for 15 seconds and stalls. Saw this happen multiple times.
I think my starter took a s hit like I said truck randomly doesn't crank all lights on dash come on can hear injectors buzzing turn key nothing. Took wire off passenger's side of truck yellow wire touched to pos post solenoid click no crank. So I had the old lady sit in the drivers seat well I hit the starter with my BMFH started right up could something else cause this or should I just bite the bullet and replace the starter?
View 7 RepliesA cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
View 14 RepliesI have a 97 F150 w 4.6L engine with auto trans which I bought new and has approx. 150,000 miles on it. Very recently it would crank and crank and not start or sometimes would start. In searching through multiple threads on here many of the Ford techs recommended replacing the IAC valve as a cheap and easy to do fix and I did that. The OEM factory IAC valve appeared to be dirty with black soot. I also cleaned the MAF sensor in the air filter snorkel. I also replaced my very old battery at the same time. I verified that the fuel pump was running for about a second or two and shuts off after the ignition switch was turned to ON so the fuel pump is running since I could hear it. I replaced he fuel filter several years ago so it should be OK and not plugged.
I had to use starting fluid after the battery replacement to get the truck running but after I got it started and I did several driving cycles over three days to make sure the truck computer reset properly and the truck was running fine and starting without a problem. I was checking the starting every 4 hours or so for the first two days and it would start on the first crank every time without a hiccup.
This morning on day 4 when I went to start it the same problem occurred where it would crank several times and not start. I loosened the filter snorkel up and shot some starting fluid in there and it cranked up after a couple of tries and ran fine all the way to work. It seems like I have a fuel delivery issue of some type. I know the fuel pump is inside the tank and very expensive to replace if it turns out that it needs replacement. That is definitely beyond my capabilities. I plan to check the fuel pressure this weekend when I have a chance and can rent a gauge from Autozone.
My question is this: If it turns out to be a defective fuel pump can I just add an inline electric fuel pump outside the tank and have it pull through the tank in the pump leaving the in-tank pump abandoned in place? Are there any other sensors or parts I should be checking for voltages, resistance, etc. that would affect fuel delivery for starting? The truck seems to run very well with no misses of any kind and accelerates nicely after it starts. Also, no "Check Engine" light at any time and the bulb is working since it lights up momentarily when the ignition is turned to ON position.
Update Saturday June 25 - Got a fuel pressure test gauge and got the following results after installing a new fuel filter:
1. Bled off fuel pressure to connect gauge and after 5 or 6 Key On, engine off cycles the pressure came up to about 38psi and truck started up fine after pressure was at 38 psi. The pressure built up slowly after the bleed off with each ON/Off cycle and that is why it required 5 or 6 cycles to reach 38 psi.
2. Key ON, engine idling maintained 31 psi
3. Key ON, engine revved up slightly maintained about 31 psi and seemed to stay there even with more throttle increase.
4. Key ON, engine idling, disconnected fuel pressure regulator line and pressure increased to about 40 psi and stayed there
5 . Left the gauge connected after turning off engine. Key OFF, engine off, after 1 min fuel pressure increased to 33psi. It is about 90 degrees in the shade here today.
6 Key OFF, engine OFF, after 2 min gauge read 33 psi, after 5 min increased to 34 psi, after 15 min decreased to 33 psi, after 30 min decreased to 29 psi, after 45 min decreased to 26 psi, and after 60 min decreased to 23 psi. The pressure seems to decrease slightly with time which I think is what it is supposed to do. Is the pressure decrease rate too fast or about right?
The truck seems to be running fine and starts up immediately after sitting for a few hours but I am making sure to turn the key on/off for at least one or two cycles to build up fuel pressure and the truck starts every time for the last week. Does it seem like my fuel pump is OK or not? Fuel pressure regulator OK or not? Any other diagnostic tests I should run?
I just installed my DDM HID kit and in the beginning it was working fine but then I was seating and re-seating the bulb because I had some glare and now the bulbs will randomly not turn on. Sometimes it's the drivers, sometimes the passenger, sometimes both of them will not turn on
View 6 RepliesIm having a problem where random doors wont unlock, it seems to be mostly the driver rear door but it also affects the driver door and passenger rear door. The driver rear door is the most consistent.
View 6 RepliesWell like I said, I have an airbag fault light. I recently installed a sound system and ever since I unplugged the "Passenger air bag light" indicator module from the dash trim piece the air bag light has been on. When a passenger is in my car the air bag does indeed activate and deactive when they get out.
My question, why is my air bag light on? Did unplugging the module from the dash trim peice really cause that? I don't really want to take it to my local dealership and get charged diag time.
I have a 2000 Mazda 626 and it randomly does not start. Sometimes I try to start the car and when I turn the ignition, there is no sound. The battery is brand new and so are the spark plugs. This happened a couple times. The first time I just tried again about 15 minutes later and it started up. The next time I was playing with battery terminal wires and it started. The third time I tried to move the battery terminals but that did not work so I put the car in neutral and moved it front and back and it started. Why is this happening?
View 4 Replies