Passat (B5) :: New Turbo Installed - 1999 I.8T Stalls At Higher Revs
Mar 24, 2011
I got a brand new turbo installed on my 99 Passat 1.8T... i took it out of the shop and everything worked fine for a few kms (the turbo was installed by a mechanic and i was there for the installation, i made sure he connected all the hoses ext...). after some time I am driving on the highway with around 110 and i decide to pass someone so i drop it down to 3rd gear, the revs go up to 3500 and the car started choking up(exactly the same thing as if the Air Mass Flow sensor was disconnected or removed) the problem continued. I disconnected the battery to restart the computer, also i have a brand new air filter and a brand new gas filter. If the new turbo is pushing more boost could it be that the car is not getting enough air through the regular intake?
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i got my coilovers on and both the front and back are all the way down as far as they can go but they fronts are still about 1/4" higher. will the fronts take longer to settle in? ins been a few days.
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Let me start with I have a 2003 f250 5.4. The motor blew on my truck and I had a 100k motor dropped in it. I've put new spark plugs, ohmd out the coils. I tried both sets of injectors. cat delete and new fuel pump. It has rough idle and stalls but runs fine at higher rpms. Also has basically no brakes. I am thinking vacuum but I've check all the lines. No codes either!! also cleaned throttle body.
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i just installed my downpipe and i took it around the block and i opened the hood and there was smoke coming from the turbo could it be b.c i didnt put the washers witht he bolts to connect the dp but i put them on really tight or could it be the wd40 i sprayed on to loosen the bolts?
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I only use AC in the summer around here, not year 'round. When I turn it on, I notice that the engine revs higher when turning the compressor, which cycles on and off. It's only a few hundred RPM, but it's quite noticeable and will make the truck surge forward when sitting at a traffic light. The dealer says this is how the AC works on a GX, so I've gotten used to it.
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So I get in my car, start it up. as i drive away i notice a whining noise, as the revs get higher the noise gets louder. so i push the clutch in and rev it. Got that same whining noise, gets louder as the rev goes higher etc... so i turn the car off come back a little while later and its still making that noise. It doesn't really sound like a belt noise,
It was the power steering fluid, thought it was low. I haven't checked that yet...
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I am experiencing a weird noise coming from my 1.8T AWP engine. Its kind of a buzzing, and it gets louder with higher revs. Unfortunately its hard to hear while driving as I have an exhaust on it, but in a confined space you can hear it clearly.
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In the past month for 3 times I've experienced problems with engine start (starter turned properly and I could hear fuel pump working). Yesterday however, I noticed that during full acceleration - at higher revs, engine suddenly loses a bit of power and at the same time you can feel kind of rattling or vibration in the engine. After letting off the gas pedal everything goes back to normal ... Besides, everything seems to be normal. Lambda control light does not light up indicating any errors. However I get a faulty knock sensor code 1-4-3. To my intuition the problem is with the ignition (but approx. 2 years ago I replaced distributor cap + rotor and the plugs + ignition wires were replaced about 3 years ago) or the amount of fuel in the mixture, but that could be caused by many things.
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I don't like the way my transmission switches gears, is it possible to make the car change gears with 0.5 revs more then what it is right now... I feel like Hyundai only considered gas mileage for this car and didn't even think about the stress on transmission and engine...
I want the car to switch gears on higher revs then it is right now..
2012 Accent GS hatchback... Automatic transmission
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I recently installed a k04 turbo, when I try and accelerate hard my wastegate just seems to open up very quickly without building much boost. I don't have a boost gauge or anything like that installed. Do I start by adjusting the wastegate actuator, or install MBC. Pretty new to this still.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent 4-door 1.4L auto, 123,000 miles.
Before you ask: The high mileage is because it's used for a newspaper route. We(as in, myself and my father) take great efforts to keep it in as good a shape as possible given the amount of stress this puts on it - one minor deer impact aside, I think we've done a good job.
Recently(read: a week ago), we replaced the purge flow valve due to it causing stalls and difficulty starting after refueling. After a week of apparently fine operation, as I was nearing completion of the route, a very clear cylinder misfire began. Not the worst misfire I've ever heard - the car barely seemed to struggle on initial acceleration(except in reverse, which made me slightly concerned I wasn't feeling an engine issue, but a transmission issue), and only got really shaky at higher revs.
We have an OBD-II reader at home, so when I returned I plugged it and discovered not one, but TWO error codes: P0497 -low purge flow- and P0301 -Cylinder 1 misfire- with the reader listing them in that order.
Looking up information on these two being connected has turned up little support - I've only learned that either one can be cause and effect. Needless to say given timing I strongly believe that it is highly likely that we either made a mistake installing the new valve, or that the new valve was bad from the get-go.
We'll be checking the spark plugs as soon as we are able(I am about to go to sleep and my dad has work - we tag team automotive repairs since two sets of eyes and two brains can figure things out better and an extra set of hands is always good to have ready even if only one set can actually do the job), but even if the problem isn't the spark plugs, it doesn't automatically mean it's the purge valve, either - at least as I understand things.
So with the background out of the way, my questions are thus:
1) Is the spark plugs don't fix anything, what is the quickest way to figure out which error is cause and which error is effect?
2) Are there any serious risks to continuing to run the car in this state if a fix cannot be made immediately? (being able to borrow another car is possible, but problematic - need to stick with this car if safely doable)
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Sometimes I will stop at a light and my idling rpm will go from 600 (usual rate she idles at) to about 950. While this may seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of things, it's noticeable enough that it seems like the car wants to go. It'll lead me to depress the brake more. You can also hear the higher pitch of the faster turning engine (it is a 50% increase in speed). This will happen at random times so I have not been able to pinpoint if it is caused by a particular driving style. ECM for this?
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I have a 99 passat, manual transmission. This problem has occurred a few times, with a few weeks in between each instance. When it happens, it goes like this:
Start the car, engine revs to around 2k rpm or more. Then it settles down after a few seconds, and idles under 1k rpms. Now, sometimes it will do this and that is the end of it. Other times, I will be driving and the engine continues to rev more than it should. Instead of both the tachometer and speedometer being in sync, the tachometer tends to be higher- more so than normal.
Then, at times-usually in 3rd gear- I can actually take my foot off the gas and the car will continue to drive as if i had my foot on the pedal. When I slow do it is a struggle between the transmission and the engine - the engine does not want to slow down. What to do, especially with the intermittent of the problem.
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So the wife's 02 Camry (I4/ auto) would not start for her & so I started the usual trouble shooting, fuel, spark, combustion, etc. Scan tool found 5 codes p0300 thru p0304, found the plugs to be soaked and not looking so hot in general (replaced plugs, it was time/105k). Now I can start the car but only if I hold throttle open, so when it starts if I let off it stalls, unless I hold it at 2500 rpms for 2 to 3 minutes, the car then will hold idle. If I try to mat the pedal to the flr it falls on it's face (nearly stalls, in gear or park). If I ease into the pedal the car runs without any issues, can stroll down the highway 70/80 mph with cruies or pedal. Currently no codes but will not take fast acceleration. If the car sits for any amount of time I have to hold throttle open to start it/ large cloud of smoke, smells liek raw fuel. Cleaned MAF, throttle body, etc...
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I have a 1999 AEB 1.8t , My turbo is whining and is on its way out. Wonder what turbos from other year Passats and Audi A4 1.8t are a Direct swap in.
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OK, so my b5 has been sitting for about 3 weeks now because I didnt have the money to fix it. Now I do but before I fix it I wanna kno exactly whats wrong with it. Basically it will go into gear when the cars OFF but it wont go into any gear when its ON. Clutch still grabs because the car will jump forward if started while in gear.
1999 Passat 1.8 Turbo
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Motor has been stalling intermittently since May. Finally had the fuel pump replaced last Friday (8/17/12). have been driving the car back and forth to work since then with no problems until yesterday. Made a run to the local convenience store and the car was shut down for about ten minutes. Came back out and car would not start! Gave it about 10 minutes and then it started again. Got it into the garage and let it run for awhile and it stalled out. Got the check engine light (a first for that) so swapped the fuel pump relay with one of the same part number. Fired right up and did not stall out.
Also, check engine light went out on its own. Swapped relays back to original positions, motor started right up, stayed running and check engine light went out on its own. What could be causing my problem? Since check engine light came on then went out on its own, would there be any trouble codes to read? One other thing, original relay has pinkish residue on the pins. What could that be about? First time poster so I hope what I have typed out makes sense. 2003 Accent 4 door with 1.6L DOHC motor. Approx 79000 miles.
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Alright i got a 1999 Passat 1.8t, that I just did a new head gasket, turbo swap on and FMIC, the problem is that the heat only comes in at high revs and at speeds of 35+ and it's getting really annoying now with it being winter and I leave my car for 10 minutes in the cold and come back to see the whole interior side of the glass is frozen..
Also, my driver's side window will not go down, theirs a clicking noise you can hear when I press down on the switch?
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I purchased my 99 vw passat 1.8t about a year ago with 108k miles, currently i am at 128k. Unbeknownst to me since I have owned it my mechanic was changing the oil with regular oil.
One year and 20k miles later....1 month after an oil change my oil light came on. I took it in and it was dry. There are no noticable leaks (my driveway and radiator fluid are clean). I understand using regular oil instead of the recommended synthetic can destroy your turbo, and that regular oil can get burned up in the turbo and emitted into the exhaust.
Does this sound like a turbo problem? If so how do I know if it is completely destroyed or not? I am monitoring the oil everyday now and switching back to synthetic this weekend...I am hoping that there may be a smaller issue I can get fixed rather than replacing the entire turbocharger, if that is in fact what the problem is.
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My passat turbo went out a while back and cant figure out why? The Idle is the same as always was, engine is smooth while driving and changing gears, but the boost is very very low but not completely out. All vaccum lines are connected and cant hear the diaphram releasing like it used to abviously cause there's no pressure.
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I have a 2003 Camry 3.0l v6. Stalls at lights random.
Currently the car stalls at stops but this doesn't happen all the time it can go a month in between the problem occurring its very random. While sitting at a light the rpms drop and then it revs up and cycles like that for quite a while. This will also occur while cruising at a low speed while I'm just coasting the rpms will go up and down. I can compensate while stopped by power braking and keeping it at its normal idling rpm. I have no check engine lights and can't seem to determine what would be causing this issue.
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