Ok my brother has a 99 passat he just put a new clutch in a few weeks ago and it still wont shift. I don't want to rip apart the trans and change the clutch again if that's not the problem...
View 1 RepliesMy buddy has a 2000 1.8t 5 speed wagon, it got towed the other day and now it is having issues shifting. I doubt that it is related to the towing. If you start the car in neutral, you cant get it to shift into any gear with the clutch pressed. Even if you try to shift with the clutch not pressed, it physically wont go into gear, it wont even grind. it just wont go.
However, it goes into gear with the car off. Your an start the car in gear with the clutch pressed, and can drive as normal....until you need to shift. at which point, it does as described above. He had a shop tell him that the clutch is bad, but it does not slip. I was thinking perhaps the shift linkage, but I don't know a whole lot about these transmissions, I am only well acquainted with mk2/mk3 style 020's.
Just went to leave my apartment and I get at the first traffic light and put it into neutral. Light turns green and I try to put it into first and it won't let me... In fact I cannot shift into any gear while the car is started. Put the flashers on and I am stumped. There was also more resistance in the clutch pedal as soon as this happened.
I turned the car off and tried wiggling it into any gear. For some reason while the car is off I can put it into any gear. So I had to put the car in first gear and start it and limp it home. I had to rev the engine to about 2,800 - 3,000 RPMS in order to get the car to bite and take off. Shifting into any other gear while driving was a hassle and it felt like there was a lot of resistance.
Just did some quick Vwvortex recon and some people are saying that it is a broken pressure plate? Pressure plate welds itself to the clutch? Or possibly a throwout bearing? Also what Transmission is in a 2003 Passat 1.8T Engine code AWM.
Sounds actually quieted down and my mechanic is thinking its more the alternator pulley.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 5-speed Golf 2.5L. Around 2 months ago after coming back from vacation, i noticed that when shift from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd, there is horrible chatter/vibration coming from i assume the clutch/tranny. its been getting progressively worse and its at a point where i can hear the spare change rattle in the cup holder. the car had been sitting for a month, and i sort of "broke it in again" when i got back from vacation, not revving over 3 on the first tank, not over 4 on the second. It does have 100k kms on it, solid mix of highway and city. Is this something easily fixable, i dont have a warranty so i'd have to go aftermarket. Not down to pay two arms and 3 legs for something that could put me back in this situation yet again. if its the clutch id just go aftermarket with something a lot better, or if its the tranny id put a 6 speed in it, really lacking on the highway i believe. Or maybe it's something else.
View 7 RepliesI have an 86 f350 with a 4 speed manual transmission, I am trying to figure out how to check transmission oil and rear end, and clutch.
View 1 RepliesSo long story short, last week I destroyed my first gear in the tranny. This weekend I did the complete swap and put a used o2j in. 5 speed. 2.0 motor.
Right after the swap, on the first startup I noticed the clutch felt softer. The grip is also a little less than it used to be.
Right before my transmission blew I upgraded from 15" alloys to 17" longbeaches with spacers all around- much heavier. It happened on my first drive with the new rims so I didn't get to feel the car much.
I reused my current slave cylinder. Did not disconnect it from the line while swapping. I did however notice my slave boot had a small little dent in it (super small) but no tears or anything. Also, reinstalling it i pushed it in and compressed the boot and secured it with the bolts - I hope I did this right.
I redid my rear brakes about a month ago, did not disconnect brake lines or bleed the system.
I have already driven about 50km on the new tranny. Today I am getting the tranny service (flush) done because I didn't have the sockets to check it after install. I'm going to ask the mechanic if he might know anything. The brakes also feel a touch less but I'm not sure if this is cause of the 17" wheels.. does the system just need to be bled?
All gears go in smooth - clutch in.
All gears go in smooth with car off.
No grinding of gears when switching or driving.
No reverse grind.
No slipping in any gears.
Just a soft pedal and feels like softer bite. I did the tranny swap in a rush, did not replace fork, TOB or anything. They should all be fine, I'm thinking it's just air but need confirmation. I just want this car to last another year or so..
I bought 95 metro 3 cyc. 5 sd. bad tranny. The clutch is shot spins when put in 4th w e-brake on the tranny will not shift in to 3rd or 5th gear. Seller also gave me a different tranny says 2nd is shot and also a rebuild kit ( bearings,seals,secniorz) same as the one in the photo from dr bills tranny rebuild. What are my options for the tranny not going in to gear and what the easy way I should go.
I've never rebuild a tranny but I've done just a bout everything else to a car u can think of from rebuild motors to brakes and bodywork. Mainly want to no what the problem is with it not going in to gear. I know I will have to split case to find out for sure and I am going to start with the one that not in car. That supposedly 2nd don't work.
1993 Geo Prizm with some odd 275,000 miles on it. Was at a stop sign, in first gear, and gave the car some gas. Very quickly it jumped out of first gear and stopped moving abruptly. Tried to get it back in first gear and it just stayed in neutral. Had to push it to the side of the road. Tried putting it in any gear and it wouldn't go. Then tried to have the car running in neutral and let up on the clutch and as soon as I started letting up on the clutch, something (like metal) started grinding. Pushing the clutch it (in neutral) stops the grinding. So, do I need a new clutch? New transmission?
View 11 RepliesI am having trouble shifting my 6 speed into 2nd, 4th, and 6th. I got my clutch replaced about a year ago, not sure if that makes a difference. Any fixes short of bringing it to a shop?
View 1 RepliesOkay so I bought this car and a week later tranny wouldn't shift out of first when I would slow down or at least it would take a min. I would hit 4or 5 grand then it would jolt me back. It wouldn't do it every time though. I bought it to go to college drove it the 900 miles on the highway and had no problems except right before I left town but then fine. All I did was change the tranny fluid before I left which I can confidently say I don't think has been changed before that. stunk bad bud no metal.
Alright now I'll go jump in the car to go to class and it will not leave first. If I put it in the manual mode it thinks it's in third but clearly if in doing 15 mph at 4000 rpm that's not the case. It doesn't do it every time. Kinda hit or miss. After driving for a min it usually shifts. Sometimes I make it the two miles without it shifting though. Also sometimes It will shift but once I slow down it won't shift out of first again.
I have seen a code for torque management since I bought the car. The check engine light is on now but I haven't seen the torque code since I change the MassES. that's not to say it's not still there. I used a different handheld computer for the check engine light the last time I did it and I could have missed it because I was unfamiliar with it. I have put a mass airflow sensor, battery, alternator, and changed the tranny fluid since I have owned the car. drained 3L of tranny fluid and put 3L back in. Oh and the last time I checked the light it said lean in bank 1 but I was assuming that was an unrelated issue.
98 Gmc Jimmy 4.3L engine 4X4, they told me when the Abs light would come on will driving the tranny would not shift past 2nd gear, so after a month of not driving it, I took it for a drive Abs light was out vehicle drove fine shifted good even took it on the highway still ran good, two weeks later problem is back Abs light comes on after driving for a few minutes and the tranny goes into limp mode can't shift past 2nd gear plus the speedometer was not working, could it be speed sensor on the tranny causing the Abs light and the tranny from working wright.
View 1 RepliesMy 94 accord lx just received a replacement motor and tranny from jdm auto.its from a 95 odyssey. I had to swap throttle bodies, distributor... from the old one cuz the new one didn't have cruise control components, external coil... Now its seems rather gutless and it wont down shift when in d4 or d3 unless I come to complete stop, but sometimes it stays in 4th which sucks at an intersection! Also the shifter moves freely from first to neutral without pressing the button. and of course check engine light is on constantly. I've played with tranny cables fuses are good, reset ecu, fluid is new... every thing seems fine and the tranny that we took out down shifted fine so I must be missing something simple. timing?
View 3 RepliesI have an 04 Gli with 85000 miles on it. I just had the clutch done with a conversion from a dual mass to a single. When the car is idling there is some chatter coming from the tranny but it stops once i press the clutch.
View 3 RepliesMy 6'4" hubby just got in my PriusV 2012 to use it and when he tried to shift into reverse, the parking brake was on and the anti skid icon lit up. It would not shift into drive. When I got in to see what was going on, after he turned it off, everything worked fine for me. It has never done this before but he rarely drives it. Is it possible he was mashing the regular brake pedal down too hard? He wasn't hitting the parking brake getting in or anything like that, I watched when he tried a second time.
We kept trying but he ended up taking his truck instead (which I was washing for him) I know on a couple occasions making fast, hard turns into our driveway I have lit up the anti skid icon but other than some extra braking action it has not caused a problem. And once while stopped at a light and reaching for something in the back seat, I lit it up, but I forget what the car did. I was mashing the pedal down hard as I reached back. I assume in both cases the car thinks I am getting in a wreck and is taking action.
Of course, I just finished washing it but there is no chance it's anything with that? I moved it from the front yard to the back and had no issues before he tried to use it. Anyway, I had this thought about pressing the pedal too hard after he left and here I am asking.
Is there a way to shut this feature off. I don't need to be told when I have to shift or down shift. I thought the manual tranny E's had the ECO button which would turn this feature off, but there's no button.
View 5 Replies2000 X V10 4WD... 178K. Truck was not well maintained for most of it's existence. Drained both the TC and Drain pain and replaced the oil filter. Tranny oil looked like crude and a lot of tiny specs of metal - it shimmered in the sun... needless to say - I'm pretty sure it had never been changed.
Now - issues since I've gotten it done... Tranny has been slipping... I figured that I may not have filled it enough and after adding a few quarts, it seems to have stopped. Slipping was initially just when going from a stop.
Now it's having a problem where the engine dies when I shift from one position to another... For instance - from Park to Reverse, the engine RPMs drop as the clutch engages - but they drop from about 900 RPM down to about 500. And 50/50 chance the engine dies. Going from Park to Drive, the same thing but maybe drops to about 700 RPMs. Tried it in 2nd and 1st gear. Has happened in both. I've tried shifting to OD first before going to 2nd to 1st or vice versa and seems to behave better.
Should I flash the ECU and have it relearn the shift points? Did I overfill? Between the TC and Drain Pan - about 16 qts came out. I've been checking the dipstick - no frothing or bubbles. When running and in park - it actually shows low. Seems to drive fine once it's on the road. The engine cutting off when it's put into gear is really unexpected.
I just got my ISF 3 weeks ago and this issue got me pretty worried. I would like to hear if there has been a recall or a fix on this issue. While in Drive (D), the tranny wouldn't shift past 2nd for a couple of seconds. It went as high as 4.5RMP and wouldn't shift, the RPM kept going up. Letting go off the gas did not work, the RMP just stood where it was and slowly decreased with the speed. This lasted for a few seconds. I must admit that I was just pulling out of the driveway and she wasn't properly warmed up (16 degrees temp or 60fh)...
View 7 RepliesLong story, but I bought a 2007 Prius with 73K miles on it. Now I'm at 93K miles, and I think it may be more jerky than when I got it when I shift the tranny into "brake" mode.
I don't know if the fluid has ever been changed on it, and I intend to change it very soon now. Am I in a pickle? Or should this transmission be fine if the fluid hasn't been changed for 93K miles?
Rebuilt trany after losing all gears filled the tranny and while cycling through the gear everything seemed to fine took it around the block topped off the fluid and went for a drive and it will not shift out of second and i lost reverse. What did i do wrong?
View 5 RepliesI need to solve tranny problem, it started out a while back, would not shift back into drive after stopping at stop sign (after driving fine for about 20 miles) thought maybe dirty filter so did fluid and filter change seemed to work for a while then started again noticed it was mostly after using cruise control, but u joints were very bad, so replaced 2 of the 3 and worked fine for about a thousand highway miles, then got really bad. Now when I check the tranny fluid cold and /or hot it is way up on the dipstick. Took to ford dealer in ladoga, lied and said no speed sensor codes, but list on the paper he gave me had all kinds of abs and a p500 code.
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