Passat (B5) :: Lumpy Idle / Smooth Acceleration And Misfires - CPS Error
Feb 28, 2008
I am trying to track down a problem for a friend with a 2001 Passat, 1.8L. The car has 150k and had a timing belt about 50k ago. About 3 weeks ago, it started misfiring badly on idle. In gear driving around, it purrs like a kitten. I scanned for codes and got:
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 4B0 906 018 CL
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 16551
9 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
At first I thought it might be a vacuum leak, but it looks like when he took it in 2 weeks ago they replaced all the vacuum hoses. It is unclear when he last had sparks and coils. I understand the likely culprits are:
sparks
coils
ICM
I am hesitant to blame sparks/coils if he is getting misfires on all 4 cyl. It seems like they might have screwed up the timing belt install given the camshaft sensor error, but he's been running for 50k miles since the change, and this idle issue just appeared recently.
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I've got a R32 with nearly 100K miles on it. Several days ago I was adjusting my shifter cables and am not sure if i accidentally leaned up against any sensors or their associated connectors that are in that vicinity. I took the car for a drive to feel how the shifter adjustment had turned out. I was building engine RPM from 2500-4000 RPM, I let off the acceleration pedal and felt a small and new kick as if something got loose, popped off, or backfired. Not sure what it was but my engine started to misfire in what seemed to be in several cylinders. It idles rough but the needle doesn't exceed 1000 RPM during idle. When driving calmly, there is sporadic misfire. If pushed hard to build RPM, it will misfire heavily.
I scanned the vehicle and got the following codes,
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
I've checked
- Every hose I can see and feel for Vacuum leaks
- Checked all my fuses
- Swapped coils from banks 1,3,5, with 2,4,6
- Disconnected, cleaned and reconnected camshaft hall sender sensors and tightened the bolts.
- Have erased the coded and the same codes are back.
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Still trying to resolve this issue. I've replaced the coils and now the 6 month old NGK plugs with Bosch plugs. I bought a kit from ECU; the red coils and the Bosch plugs. Car revs smoothly no hiccups all the way on up. But sometimes the car won't start first kick, and the idle is almost always lumpy. CEL light has been on for more than several weeks. Last time I took it to the dealer to clear. It was back on the next day. 112 K (km) on car. 2009 TSI 2.0...
Parts Source will read the codes, and now there are plenty. I've looked at other threads re PCV valves and air leaks, but I don't believe they're related to the idle issue I'm having. More pronounced in the colder weather I might add.
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Drove the lady's car out on some errands today and ran into a problem on our drive home. Car was pinging really bad (low rpms in 1st and second) and car seemed as if it couldn't get out of its own way. Was driving for some time on the freeway (after a blistering 0-60 time of 20 seconds ), and noticed that the brake pedal was really spongy (felt like a mk1 when you try to brake with the car off). Found that the e-brake handle was up (negligibly up (perhaps 1mm raised)). Didn't have power brakes at all and had to use a lot of engine braking to slow the car off of the freeway.
Rear of the car smells like copper (wet pennies) and found that the brake reservoir is cracked (but fluid still at max level). Also noticed that as of late, when the car is at a stop (sometimes in gear, and sometimes in neutral) the car will rock/bump a little almost as if someone were giving it a bumper kiss with their car.
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It's a 2004 V8 Touareg with 100k miles.
Getting horrible misfires and they're jumping around to different cylinders + other intermittent codes. The symptoms are ROUGH idle, and hesitating/shaking under acceleration.
The MIL has never come on in this car. But, it illuminates when you turn the key forward. (Almost like previous owner coded the light out?)
Replaced all 8 spark plugs, just ordered 8 new ignition coils. Hoping the misfires are the coil packs but obviously theres some other stuff going on here.
Pulled codes 2 weeks ago:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
3) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )
4) warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 2 (P0431)
5) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 1 (P0491)
6) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 2 (P0492)
7) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)
Pulled codes 1 week ago:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)
3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)
4) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)
Pulled codes tonight:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)
3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)
4) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
Cleared codes. Swapped ignition coils from 2 & 3 with 7 & 8. Drove around the block, then re-ran them:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
3) misfire cylinder 5 (P0305)
4) misfire cylinder 6 (P0206)
5) misfire cylinder 7 (P0307)
6) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )
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So I took a trip from Dallas to Florida, and on the way back my check engine light came on. The car shakes at idle, almost like it wants to take off. I drove it back to Dallas like that since the car runs normal on the high way. I got it scanned at autozone and the code said it had multiple random misfires. I'll be taking to the dealer in the morning, but what it could be? The car jumped over 50K during the trip hopefully the dealer will be nice and cover it.
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Recently I just purchased a 1998 F-250 (light duty) with 11X,XXX miles on it. Up until today, it was running perfectly. However, today it started idling rough whenever I was at a light. This was only when I was stopped, in gear, with my foot on the brake. In neutral or park it didn't do it, and it stopped as soon as I gave it a little gas. No CEL either. I've looked around, and saw that it might just be "feature" of the 4.6. I also have seen to clean the MAF, but wouldn't that also give a rough idle when in park/neutral? Same with replacing the coil pack.
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When I start my 1999 1.8 petrol passat it needs some throttle to start, low idle speed, misfires, drop in idle, so boot the throtle full - still no pick up and sits on 1000 rpm busy backfiring away! It started after fitting a new windscreen wiper motor, battery was disconnected but went back ok, all other electrics work and no warning on the dash. Didn't touch anything in the engine bay nor were there any issues before I changed the wiper motor.
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Audi A3 3.2 owner here from Fortitude and have rough / lumpy idle issues? While at a stop in neutral w/a cold or warm engine, it seems a little rougher than one would expect. If you rev it to 1000-1100 rpm the whole car shakes.
Engine Mounts worn?
APR Software causation?
Cam Followers or faulty coils?
Do I need a heavier duty front and top engine mount?
Wondering if CAI and Exhaust along w/ the APR ECU tune is causing it or if I'm just being paranoid.
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My 2005 Excursion, at 198K miles has become more of a 'hangar queen' in that I only use it for big jobs. I've kept it for towing/hauling and making long highway runs with more than 4 people.
The truck, 99.8% of the time, runs super. It pulls like a locomotive and gets decent fuel economy (17 mpg running 75 mph empty). I've got the 'blue spring', EGR delete, ARP headstuds, 4" MBRP, Banks intercooler, and run my SCT tuner all the time on "8000 lb tow".
But...there is this weird intermittent problem. It appears to only happen when it is warmed up and driving around town. Sometimes, when I pull up to a light, with my foot on the brake, the engine will sort of go into a 'lumpy race idle' and you have to clamp down on the brake pedal to keep it from lurching into the guy in front of you. Other times, it just runs rough and idles 'lumpy'. It has only died maybe 2 times when acting up. Often, the symptoms disappear on their own and don't come back. If I turn off the engine and re-start (to keep from scaring people at the bank drive-through) it usually runs fine after restart.
I've got an EDGE CTS monitor so I've been trying to find out from that what is going on. I can't seem to catch the parameter that might tell me. My local 'indy' shop can't find any codes thrown. The truck had new alternator, batteries, and starter motor installed in January this year. These symptoms have been going on for several years. Recently, they seem to occur more often.
I've searched on this site a few times, but with no definite 'hit'. I'll admit that I'm a big out of the jargon. I keep thinking this is related to FICM, but everyone seems to say the FICM would manifest as a cold start problem. I do know the FICM sits right on top of the drivers side valve cover. It has got to get hot.
FICM?
Injectors?
How do I kill this one strange problem?
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I have a 2008 model 2.7 v6 with 80000 Km, and I would like to share my experience with several issues:
- Random misfire: brought the car to Hyundai, very bad response. I bought online the wiring of the spark plugs (according to them that was the reason of the misfire) and they installed it, did not improve. The car was still showing error code after clearing, and the fuel consumption at an average of 23L/100km.
- I then decided to change all the 6 spark plugs, no difference. The workshop told me the coils were in perfect condition. Still having a message like this: "ignition error on 2 or more spark plugs".
- I did a complete cleaning with contact spray of the MAF sensor.
- I bought online a couple of ignition coils, being original Hyundai ones, and changed them. When installing them i realized the existing ones were not original Hyundai and had a small marking, making me think they were recycled or chinese stuff.
- Having done that, the OBDII shown two more error codes: P341: error on camshaft position sensor, P2189: fuel idle (too much air, maybe caused by the first one). Changed both camshaft position sensors and then big change in the behaviour, more response, throttle, better gear switching.
- I so concluded that the 4 remaining coils have to be changed and ordered another time 4 of them online. OBDII showing now only one error code: random misfire. The engine going much better than all i got before.
- I have decided to take advantage of this order and also ordered a new TPS (seeing here that it was a common problem) and a Crankshaft position sensor (in order to prevent any other issue).
- I also changed previously 2 downstream o2 sensors that were giving an error related to emission. Emission here are not strictly controled so it is not a big issue.
My question is, what in all that sensors can more likely make my car burn 23L/100km??? Asian cities are quite similar to american cities, lots of highways. This consumption compared to what you describe is way over the normal one isn't it? I was assuming the ignition problem was the responsible, am i right?
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My wife and I recently purchased a 2013 Jetta and have noticed some abnormal lag when accelerating. It's an automatic transmission and the gear shifts aren't as smooth as they should be. I have read that it is possibly related to the drive by wire system and may just be an inherent result of that system.
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During very smooth acceleration at any speed, steering vibration is felt which seems to come from bad engine support absorbers. Dealer said this is normal due to powerful V6 engine. Also hear disturbing exhaust sound when accelerating. Wonder if these conditions are related to steering vibration?
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I have a 2001 Passat GLS 4 cylinder. At Idle the car surges from about 800-1200 Rpms. seems to run fine while on the gas. but always surges while not on the gas. The check engine light is on, and autozone gave the following codes :
P0411
P0102
P0135
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My GF recently picked up a 1.8t (AWW) and we scanned it with vag com before she bought. We knew it had some misfires and a few other small problems so when it ran at higher RPMs we didn't think anything of it.
Fast forward to now after replacing some parts (hoses, coil packs etc...) and still the RPMs seem a little high compared to my mk4 vr6. On the streets in 4th gear, my car stays around 2200 and on the hwy its probably around 3300 in 5th gear at 75mph.
On the streets, her 1.8t seems normal but on the hwy in 5th gear, she's at nearly 4k. So my question... Do 1.8ts run at higher rpms under normal driving?
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I have been working through a variety of problems on my 01 AWM with TIP. Im down to two issues that maybe related but Im not really sure. The car idles very rough once warmed up (idles smoother cold). The other is in the way the car delivers its power. Its a un -smooth, kind of pulses at different times jerky and its inconsistent. There are currently no lights on and hasnt been for almost a year. On the last scan the only code that was stores was P01040 (cat). Here is what I have done so far;
Replaces plugs and coil packs Replaced fuel filter Cleaned MAF and TB New N75 valve New DV Cleaned pancake valve replaced 6 vacumn lines with leaks.
Maybe Im missing something here but I think im pretty much down to the PCV system under the intake. Should I just order a rebuild kit from ECS and dig in?
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I have a 2006 Ford 150 with about 120,000 miles on it... For almost 9 months now I've had a really rough idle and I can't seem to get it to smooth out. I've tried new plugs, tune up, new fuel filter, higher octane gas, fuel injector cleaner, octane booster, cleaned my mass air flow sensor and nothing works... I've checked the trucks ECM for any codes but it comes up clean every time...
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I have a 99 lesabre cold start rough idle but smooths out . Warm no start. Trouble codes P0171, P0300, P0336. Had plennum replaced 2 years ago but I'm seeing coolant around the base of the plennum so I'm going to have to do that again but I don't think that has anything to do with the warm no start.
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My truck has been running great for the lasts 2 years. Today is actually the 2 year anniversary of me buying the truck. Still have great power and rumbles great down the road with no lights or anything.
Lately though at stop lights my idle will be inconstant. Will either sit smooth at about 550rpm, or be high but smooth around 700, OR that one that worries me the most is it will idle at 550rpm then drop down to 450 or so then catch itself and go back to 550, then drop back down.
It has the usual maintenance, new spark plugs around 100k, oil change and air filter just a few weeks ago, so this idle has me a bit puzzled. Maybe time for a new fuel filter? MAF sensor dirty?
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I recently purchased a 2006 SE with 4 cylinder/at combo. Engine is silky smooth, but I have a rattle that I think is coming from behind the driver instruments or against the fire wall where the brake m/c is. This only occurs when the engine is in gear, mainly with a/c on, & the idle drops to 600-700 rpm range. Like if I am sitting at a red light for more than a minute or two. If I put the tranny in neutral, cut the a/c off, or step on gas to raise the idle speed the rattle goes away. It's definitely rpm dependent.
It's not the a/c, because I have been able to repeat the issue with the a/c off. I did notice that on the back of the air filter box, there are several plastic components attached but what they do. Is there anyway to increase idle speed?
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1994 Buick LeSabre Custom 3.8 Litre V6 with 103277 miles.
It runs smooth when idling in Park, rough when I put it in gear when I am stopped (either drive or reverse) has hesitation when accelerating, it smooths out again when driving then it starts to drive rough at about 55 MPH.
Mechanic told me it was the plug wires. I replaced those and the plugs. This fixed the hesitation when accelerating issue, but the other issues remain (now even seem a little worse) I thought the plugs and/or wires were bad, so I rechecked the gauge on the plugs and traced to make sure I had the wires hooked up right. Everything seems in order.
I have added fuel injector cleaner, and changed the oil, oil filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, flushed the radiator, and changed the thermostat. (For a tune up since it has admittedly been a while)....
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