Passat (B5) :: Loud Noise For A Minute Or So On Cold Start - Secondary Air Pump?
Jul 23, 2008
I've got a 2004 1.8T 4motion passat and when it starts cold in the morning it makes a loud noise for a minute or so then it stops and is normal again, I'vev been told by a local autoparts store that it is possibly the auxiliary/secondary air pump that needs to be changed to fix this poblem. if it is the air pump how hard is it to change and do u need any special tooling to do it or is it fairly straight forward to change?
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Have a little oil on the outer part of the turbo and its making a raspy noise when my turbo is spoiled not sure whats going on the car pulls just as hard and boost levels are normal i had a check engine light on for a few days right after this started code was for p0411 dont think its related cause i know my secondary air pump whistles at cold start so im assuming that the code is for that and not related to the turbo.
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There is a loud ticking noise coming from an undetermined location in the engine compartment (sounds more like behind the motor). It starts on cold-start, lasts approximately a minute or so until the engine heats up. Driveability doesn't seem to be affected, and the engine doesn't have any additional weird symptoms. Some other VW owners have suggested changing the cam belt and tensioner to fix this problem, but the car has only just turned 45K miles and can't imagine that it would fail so quickly.
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Every morning for the last 3 days I've gone to go warm up my car and each time i turn on the car only from a cold start up i hear this loud high pitch noise from the motor. If i turn the car off and restart it. It goes away and the car is at perfect idle. what is this and do i have some serious problems?
Is this true? If it's only on a cold start up, and then it goes away during normal driving, you have no need to fear....that's the Secondary Air Injection Pump that turns on during cold starts, and the plastic hose just needs to be replaced.. If so where is it located so i can replace this hose.
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The secondary air pump on my 2001 went out the other day. The question that I have is it bad to drive with a bad pump?
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Looks like I have an issue with the Secondary Air Pump, but I am not sure where its located, where this is on the car?
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I have had an engine code for some time claiming my auxiliary air pump is not working properly. My indy saw no obvious problem, but it could just be shot. He suggested I take it to the dealer. But from my understanding, that pump only works to achieve cleaner combustion when the engine is cold right after a start. I am tempted to continue ignoring it. Would I be making a mistake? I haven't noticed any power or mpg reduction.
I guess I can always take my car in for the under the hood seal recall and have them do a diagnostics too.
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Ok so I accidentally broke the hose that connects the secondary air pump to the stock intake box and been looking around for a replacement. I have looked around and searched and searched and the only one I found is this one: [URL] .....
Will this work for a 2004 1.8T? I know it says that its for the 2000-01 but it looks exactly like the one that goes on mine. Haven't checked the dealer to see how much they want for it but it will most likely be an arm and a leg.
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I have a question? I have had my car parked for about 2 1/2 months and I just started it this weekend and I've always noticed on our cars when we start them in the morning I think it's the secondary air pump that turns on, it sounds like a blow dryer.. It only stays on for about 10 seconds maybe. Cause when I started my car this weekend I didn't hear come on.
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What is the solution to fix the secondary pump humming/vibration noise? I get this humming noise from my driver side center dash area and according to few other members, it's the secondary pump. Some dealer fixed it by moving it to the side a bit to stop the vibration.
My dealer told me that's false and it's normal to make that noise (never had this noise before) and if there is something wrong, VWoA will issue an TSB to fix it..
Well, they won't do anything until there is an TSB and I was wondering if it's a easy fix that i can do it myself??
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Check out how loud my cold start idle is. Still can't figure out why you can't hear the turbo on start up though. Even revving at idle you can't hear it that much. I've seen plenty of gti's with more exhaust restriction then i have and you can hear it clearly. [URL] .....
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I just had all my belts changed on my 2009 elantra. Now when I start my car it makes a loud squealing noise. it goes away after about 1 minute, we took the belt off that controls the air conditioning and still squealing.
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2006 Sonata 3.3 V6 with 101,000 miles. At a cold start there is a loud whining noise coming from the engine on the passenger side. After the car warms up the whining goes away. The car has not had any noise before. It is progressively getting worse.
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My 2013 Prius v made a really loud clicking noise this morning when starting the car from a cold start. It was less than 30 degrees Fahrenheit. The car has about 14K miles in it. Is this normal?
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My power steering pump in my 05 Explorer 4.6L V8 is starting to howl it's displeasure on a cold start at near zero temperature. It doesn't do it when warm.
I thought I would change the fluid but the owners manual says to use Mercon ATF, but Ford now sells Mercon V as power steering fluid. It also warns not to mix the two kinds.
So, which one should I use? And, which way to change it, siphon pump the reservoir and replace with new a few times, or let the pump pump it out and replace as it goes?
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5.4. So I have a 2004 F-150 that just passed 80,000 miles and a month ago it started making a very loud noise on startup, but only cold startup, meaning if I haven't used the truck in about three hours. Now I went on youtube to research and found a video of a truck making the exact same noise! Here is the link:
2004 f150 cold start knocking noise - YouTube ....
Need to verify what this is??? Some people are saying cam phasers and some are saying I'll need a brand new engine!
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I am a proud and recent owner of a 2015 Sonata Sport 2.0T!
Car looks amazing and am very happy with it.
But lately I have been noticing lots of drone noise coming from the engine, and a really loud cold start as well. The "cold start loudness" goes away after a little bit of driving.
Was wondering if this is just the way the 2.0T sounds, or should i get it checked?
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What is this metal on metal noise...you hear it the best around the 7-12 second mark...it is especially loud on cold start in the morning when you put the car in "drive" but don't move the car forward. It also is prevalent on hot days when you park the car outside and just start the car. The sound gets louder when you turn on the a/c during the hot day.
2010 2011 lexus engine noise metal noise - YouTube...
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I have a 2006 Subaru Forester automatic with about 40,000 miles on it. When it gets cold out, I notice that when I first start driving the car, it jerks/lurches and makes a loud noise when shifting from first to second and second to third. When the car warms up after driving for awhile, it doesn't do it anymore. It's much colder here (high today of zero), the car is doing this much more often. I brought it to the dealer and they completely flushed the transmission fluid (which they said looked yellow instead of red/orange??), but it is still making the noise and having trouble shifting in the cold. They said need to take the transmission apart, so I've been leary about taking it back. My husband thinks I should just drive it until it dies and then get a new transmission if needed.
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Where the secondary air injection pump is? I'm getting P1411 & P1423 codes.
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Started with the p0410 trouble code. Pump was seized, so replaced pump along with the check valve and hoses. Ran fine for about a day, then noticed pump was running when I passed by the vehicle. Unplugged it, plugged back in, and all seemed to be fixed. Now the check engine light back on, and again the pump stays running- vehicle turned off and key removed from ignition. Have to go borrow a code tester again, but what is causing the pump to stay running? I don't want this one to burn up. I need to get it smogged for my reg renewal asap before I get penalized for it being late. The guy who replaced the pump and did the unplugging thing just wants to reset the codes and try again. I'm thinking there is a more logical reason or a step he neglected to do when replacing the pump.
99 suburban LS 5.7l V8
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