Passat (B5) :: Limp Mode - Only 4th Gear Available / Sensor A Is Bad
Sep 13, 2011
Wife's Passat went into "limp mode" and will only give me 4th gear. Check engine light came on when it happened. I had a buddy scan the car with OBD scanner and it is saying Sensor A is bad? Which sensor this is, or thought of writing down the code that it was throwing. My guess is the speed sensor for the transmission.
Luckily the car is a W8 and has enough power to pull the car from stop in 4th gear. There aren't any reputable VW dealerships in my town or any neighboring town. I've decided to take the car to a VW/Audi specialist some 60 miles away. They told me they can take a look and replace if needed. I absolutely do not trust VW dealerships/service around here. I've heard nothing but nightmare stories about them.
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I have a 2004 1.8T AWM auto tranny Passat with APR chip. CIA, Bolt down Coil Packs, Bosch F6DTC plugs, OEM cat to straight pipe to magnaflow muffler, N75J, Forge DV (not the 007).
I installed a MBC bypassing the N75 to keep the spike at 16psi and hold (the n75J i spike at 22psi and hold 12~14), When I did that, the car will go in limp mode from 'over boosting'. I have to turn the MBC down to 9 to keep the car limping out. I love the way the MBC have the boost curve (the N75 is too passive for me). would like to fix this issue.
Also, with the N75 and or MBC, while in the APR 93 oct chip mode, I always get surging in 4th and 5th gear. Any time the boost is over 10psi, it is like I have tons of boost, but the engine is not using it. APR said it is the tranny, the tranny shop said it is the engine or computer, the engine shop said it is the tuning.
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New to the jetta (used to own Saabs so not new to issues) OK, 2003 jetta 2.0 CEL is on for the CAM Post sensor. Car is in limp mode. has been for a while before I touched the car. I have replaced the Cam post sensor, I replaced the Crank Post sensor, replaced the coil pack, replaced the water pump and the timing belt. I have searched a lot of the other threads before posting this one. Triple checked the timing (3 people did not just me) I replace all the other stuff because I had codes the water pump and the timing belt just because they were due. i had one last code P0343 so when i replaced the WP and the TB i replaced the sensor. Still in limp mode, still have the code i pulled the plug on the Cam post sensor. then i said to my self this car should NOT start. but it did start and i drove it around a little, shut it down and car started up again so I am at a complete loss.
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So I have a bad map sensor and lately my turbos been going in and out of limp mode. I recently just replaced with a new n75 valve and it solved the problem for about a week and now it's acting up again. Its not a constant problem it occurs usually every 20 starts. Could the map sensor be the reason why my car is going into limp mode?
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So yesterday, this had happened for the third time in 3 years owning this car. Unhooking the battery for 20-30 minutes resets the computer and it is ready to go for a while with no issues. This has become annoying though. What is causing the car to enter "limp" mode and stay in third gear? One time it happened, I brought it to AutoZone and they did a scan and came up with the speed sensor. I haven't replaced it because it didn't happen for a while after that.
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Should we go to a transmission specialist or a regular shop for our issue? 2006 Kia Sedona - won't shift into reverse suddenly and is in "limp" mode, only staying in 3rd gear.
My concerns are primarily getting it done correctly and as cheaply as possible. I've read that the issue could be an input or output solenoid or maybe having to get a full on re manufactured transmission instead. But the consensus appears to be having it properly diagnosed.
So my question is, will the local shop around the corner who is pretty good with most repairs be able to properly deal with this? Or am I better off skipping them and going to the specialist?
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Today I decided to change my rotors and pads out.. Got everything back together and i believe car is in limp mode.. It wont shift out of 3rd.. Abs light on ,check engine light, traction control and stability control light on.. Also my speedometer doesn't work but my rpm"s do...hooked up scan tool and comes back as wheel speed sensors.. I never touched them or removed them....
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I have 1 month left on my AAMCO rebuilt transmission. I took it in a few weeks ago when it went into "limp mode" (Stuck in 1st gear). Eventually, they got an error code of P0730, which I believe is electrical-related. All was pretty good but then today, driving @ high speed on the interstate, I could not get into 4th gear...
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so i was driving the vw and the car starts surging like its in limp mode but no cel! so i stopped and checked my engine bay to see if maybe my intercooler piping came loose but nothing! so i shut it off for about 5 seconds and turned it back on and it threw a cel! the whole time i was driving it home felt like it was going in and out of limp mode and would not boost past 4 psi! check the cel and came back as this:
P0238 turbo/supercharger boost sensor a ckt high input
p0106 map/baro ckt rng perform
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Passat 2008/09 TSI engine 16k miles. APR stage 2+
I was driving normally and suddenly EPC light comes on, and the engine goes to limp mode. I turn the engine off and then turn on again. Everything runs fine. Vag shows N276 intermittent fail. I had already this fail, but always when starting engine, and the engine used to run OK. Is this a "sign" that is time to replace the HPFP? Or can I take the chance and keep running?
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I have the problem of over boosting and hitting limp mode. now does that mean i adjusted the actuator wrong when putting it back on? if so how do i adjust it properly. or is there something else i can do to make the car come out of limp mode? also since it is boosting past a certain psi should i put a mbc on it and adjust it down?
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Nissan XTerra 2005 transmission RE5R05A. Trouble code is p1757 When I go from park to drive it goes out of gear and puts my car in limp mode. I took it to the dealer and they told me that I have to replace a transmission another place told that it could be brake solenoid or oil filter. In third place they told me it could be the TCM problems.
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My friends has an 06 3.6 motion sedan and has a problem. His car went into limp mode with the ECM and traction control light as well as CEL. we took it to the local dealer (45 min away) they scanned it and said that the throttle pedal was the only code that wouldn't clear. He ordered a new pedal from ECS and installed it today. The cars still in limp mode we read about a potential throttle body adjustment procedure (not too sure of the validity) any how followed it open hood open door ignition in the "on" position for a few minutes. After that when he started it every warning light came on. Is there a step in pedal replacement we re missing? On a side note the connector on the pedal end was fairly damaged not sure what from maybe the po had a botched replacement attempt? Not too sure what to try next.
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I got into my car about 5 minutes ago and while driving i noticed a ample amount of power loss. I would go half throttle and my rmp's would go up by my speed seemed lacking even full on it it seemed to be lagging and was a slow climb to 60. Could it be my turbo not putting out or something more serious. Its a 99 1.8t ....
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We have a 2006 Passat, 30K miles, live in northeast on a Great Lake. We bought it used in 5/07 with 11K miles on it. The other day, a whole mess of warning lights came on, and the car went into "limp mode." The dealership diagnosed corroded wires where they connect to the throttle valve controller. We usually keep our cars for years, and we've never had corroded wires before. Is this a typical problem of VW's? The service mgr said he'd seen about 6 come in in the last year, but I don't know if that's a lot or a few compared to other brands. We're getting ready to shop for cars again, and we'd consider a new Jetta, but not if it can't go out in the rain. Also, if the wires corroded once, what will keep them from corroding again? Should we expect this to keep happening?
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Own a 2006 Volkswagen Passat 2.0t a/t. My dash board is showing a parking brake fault but as soon as the that comes up my tranny will go into limp mode ???? could the parking brake and tranny be linked together??? My parking brake still engaged and disengaged ??? what can it be ???
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I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
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I have a 2006 Charger R/T. My car used to not start (even thought the battery, starter, and alternator was good). I had it fixed, and the problem seemed to be electrical. However after that, it would always start, but would go into "limp mode". I let it sit for two days, and the limp mode disappeared. However, it will only start on occasion. It won't start after about 30 mins after use. It won't start for a few hours. All electrics work fine, it just won't even attempt to crank. Try to start it later, it will work fine. Even though the check engine light was NOT on, I was able to pull three codes out of it: U0100, U0103, P0700. I did have to replace the notorious "pink thingy", but everything (should be) connected fine.
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Happened once or twice where I tried to back up a hill and the car went into limp mode. Neither the dealer nor my mechanic could replicate it.
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So I was driving kinda hard yesterday on the highway, and it was about 80 degrees outside. At some point in the drive, I got no boost from the turbo at all (my gauge also was showing no boost). I pulled over, stopped the car, and restarted it, and the car was back to normal. Is this something I should be worried about? I am running 93 program APR Stage 1+ with VWR intake and HPFP.
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My 2007 Santa Fe was acting up at one time, then stopped doing it, and recently started again. My wife is the primary driver so I'm not always in the vehicle when it happens. When the vehicle is started cold, it will run a short distance then the MIL comes on and it goes to a 5 mph limp mode. After pulling over and shutting the vehicle completely down for a couple of minutes, it will run normally with the MIL still on. However, by the time I get back home to pull the codes, the MIL goes off. I don't remember the exact codes, but when it acted up last time I believe the codes had something to do with the TPS, Pedal Pos Sensor, and one other I can't remember.
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