Passat (B5) :: Leaking Brake Fluid - Clutch Pedal (manual) Does Not Return All The Way
Apr 23, 2010
Over the past week I have noticed leaking brake fluid and after my STOP Brake failure light came on I topped off the brake fluid and it is down to a low level again. I also notice that the clutch pedal (manual) does not return all the way when the brake fluid is low and I assume they share the same fluid. I'm going to take it to my mechanic but could this be a clutch problem or just a fluid leak.
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My B5's clutch started not returning by itself when the really cold weather started. When it gets warmer it starts to spring back up. I called the dealership and the initial cost of looking at it takes me somewhat aback. I've already spent quite a bit on it last year. Reading some of the threads on other car models I've seen mention of clutch master/slave and fluids.
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I swapped my fluid and ever since I did that my clutch and brake pedal are pulsing/vibrating only when I start the car. It almost feels like ABS pulsing but on both pedals and the car is obviously stationary.
I followed the procedure from the manual and did all 4 corners and slave.
Brakes work fine/clutch is fine...
I must have done something to upset the BRAKE system?
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I have an 04 GLI 1.8T 6speed. It is very clear to me that the car has some hydraulic issues. I can't leave the clutch in for more than 10 seconds or it stays on the floor and I have to pull it back up with my foot. So what does this mean? (Besides the fact that I'm a double clutch king now) I couldn't wrap my head around why this was happening and thought at first it may have something to do with a hole in the Slave Cylinder that is allowing air into the lines. Neither confirmed nor denied yet.
My other problem I have is that my car is losing brake fluid at about a quart every 3 weeks. I'm no expert but that is alarmingly fast, and it is getting worse by the month. When driving I get the error message of STOP and my brake light flashes, which is how I know it is low. I can't locate the leak but I do see a drip coming from somewhere behind the drivers side front tire, relatively close to the firewall. I don't know if I have a broken brake fluid line that is dripping down, or if something else could be broken that is causing the leak.
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So... I have a 99 Subaru Outback 5 speed that I love the hell out of. Anyway, recently my clutch pedal has started momentarily sticking mid return. The clutch appears to be fully engaged, but the pedal sticks, or hangs for a moment before popping the rest of the way up. Once, and only once so far, it stuck completely just for a moment before returning after being depressed again. I'm not sure how concerned I should be, and given that the car is new to me I'm still trying to familiarize myself with it.
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So, I think that my clutch pedal return spring broke yesterday in my Focus 07 Hatchback when I was at a stop sign. I let out the clutch and felt and heard something like a small cable breaking. Now the clutch still operates fine, but it is softer than before. If it is indeed that little spring, can I still drive it around for a few days until I can get it to the dealer?
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1988 Acura Legend, 2.7L 6 cyl., 181,000 miles only do 6,500 miles a year to train station, parked inside, runs great. Last week parked out in hot sun, '90s, for 8 hours. At first, no problem. When did errand and returned to car, pushed clutch pedal and it would not return or allow gear to engage. "Jammed" into 1st, then could not shift, shifted slightly by pulling up on clutch pedal with my foot. Parked overnight, cool, next morning seemed to be fine and crept to mechanic. Mechanic road tested and found no problem and now seems to be working okay. Would parking in sun, high heat cause "clutch cylinder" to "seize" or "freeze"? Is there a "fix"? Also, increasingly hard to get parts for this car.
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I know I have a leak in my power steering fluid return. I bought the big expensive green jug and top it off when I need to. The past few days, when I start up my car and turn around in the driveway, there's a groan when I turn the wheel in either direction.
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So, a few day i bought an 84 Ranger and even since have not been able to figure out what the hell is wrong with the brakes. I know it's not the brake booster for starters. Because, i went to Auto Zone and picked up a new one and when i took the old one off (before i had put the new one on as well) i tried to see if the brake pedal would now move freely and it won't. It is still very stiff and squeaks when you push it down. i then to get it to return have to pull it up with my foot... What it might be? the WD-40 failed here as well.
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First of all this is also my first camry and I noticed that there is only 1 reservoir for the slave and the brakes - which is unique to cars Ive owned in the past. My question is when I remove my slave cylinder from the trans and unhook the hard lines from it would this introduce air into the brake lines since they share the same reservoir? Should I remove the brake fluid from the reservoir before I disconnect the slave? I am wondering because If i just disconnect the lines brake fluid will leak from them between the time I disconnect the old slavecyl and hook the new one up.
Also regarding the trans fluid. my le has 80,000 miles on it and I am not sure whether or not the previous owner ever changed it before. I am having a hard time finding information about how much fluid and exactly which fluid to use. All I know is that gl-4 is the safest choice, butis it ok to use red line mt-90 or amsoil MTF? I dont want to ruin the trans by putting in the wrong fluid and/or wrong quantity.
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I currently own an mk6 gti with a manual trans... as of late I've been noticing a rattling noise when the clutch pedal is not engaged.. once engaged the rattling stops completely .. it seems to be getting louder and louder .. I am worried this could eventually turn into something worse than just a rattling noise .. i had a friend mention it could be the "throwout bearing" ..
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My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad...
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I have a 2003 Jetta GLI. Thus morning driving into work my clutch pedal stuck to the floor. I was able to pull it back it and make it to work, but when i got to work i noticed fluid dripping from underneath my car.
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I am loosing gear oil through an odd place . There appears to have been a rubber boot or cover over this area that got cooked by a hot exhaust (whole other story there). This is left (passenger side) just above where the axle enters the gearbox. Not sure what this is and how I can resolve the issue. I have temporarily used silicone to stop the flow and have topped off the gear oil, but am still leaking a little. I have already done some damage to the bearings I fear, as the tranny really whines when I get up into 4th and 5th.
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I have an '06 Camry 4cyl with 84,000 miles on the clock. The brake fluid in the mc is leaking down. It takes about 3 weeks for it to leak down enough for the brake light to come on. I have checked the mc,booster, hose from booster to engine,traced the lines to the ABS,traced the lines to each wheel,checked the calipers,rear wheel cylinders,and under the dash.
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I currently have no brake fluid in my car because it keeps leaking out (leaks while actively being used). The leak is between the power brake booster and the brake master cylinder... Is there any type of gasket I can get to better fill the gap between the two pieces of metal? Is there some way to tell which of the two pieces is creating the leak to narrow down which to purchase?
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Have 2005 Buick Century. There is a brake fluid leak somewhere between the brake fluid reservoir and the bottom of the car. Seeking a leak-stopping fluid such as the fluid used to stop a leak in a radiator.
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"I have a 1997 Mazda 626 w/ 198k miles.... The clutch is making a squealing noise when depressed and I am losing brake fluid."
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This morning I could feel vibration in both the clutch pedal and the brake pedal under normal acceleration. This just happened and is significant enough to make me feel something is wrong. Car has about 5700 miles on it. To be honest, I have never liked this transmission and have zero confidence in it. It feels completely weak, loose, soft, and lacks any feedback except unbelievably notchy shifting. Maybe it's my DieselGeek. I've already had to tighten/adjust it twice in ~2000 miles.
I am not resting my foot on the pedals during acceleration. I can feel the vibration as I go to engage the clutch/apply brakes.
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Just replaced brake line and bled system. 2000 Power Stroke with Auto Tranny. Now brake fluid leaks from bell housing after running and using brakes. Brakes function fine. What did I do wrong?
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Topped off my brake fluid 6 months ago. Last week my brake light came on. I checked and I only had half the fluid left so I topped it off again. Today I went out and there was some kind of oil near my rear tires and my light came on again, needs more brake fluid.
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