Passat (B5) :: Intermittent Codes, Creaks And Squeaks Keeps Coming
Dec 22, 2006
My Passat seems happy enough. Been over a year since I've had a problem. Not even a CEL. My dilema is do I take this into the dealer for warranty work or best leave well enough alone.
For kicks I did a Vag COm scan the other day (last one was a year ago and I cleared the codes ) and I have a handful of intermittent codes again. Mostly the same. Cleared again, rescanned in a week and only one came back. They are mostly Central Convenience / HVAC codes. The one that came back was one of 2 codes for positioning motors in the HVAC.
I know digging into dash stuff isn't fun. Creaks and squeaks and demons come out if the the tech isn't careful in what he does. I'm not noting any issues at all.
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Now that its cold out, my car sounds awful. I read something about the LCA bushings... What to replace?
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I have recently made some repairs to my 2007 Chevy Cavalier LT AT/FWD/ABS/TRACTION CONTROL, has 60,000 miles. I replaced the stabilizer bar bushings, tie rod ends, control arms and sway bar end links then got an alignment. Later on a week later I changed the front brakes. The car felt good for 2 weeks after the suspension parts were replaced and a week after the brake job, then all of the sudden the car began squeaking and creaking on the front end.
Sometimes, the creaking and squeaking come when I turn, some times when I slow done and sometimes when I go from a stop to slowly speeding up (in forward drive or in reverse). I am puzzled as to what it could be. I just this evening sprayed some Blaster! Silicon Lubricant on the stabilizer bar bushings and control arm pivot rear pivot bushing.
The sounds seems not so loud now, but the squeaking and creaking are still there. Could be that where I sprayed was only where some of the noise was coming from. I suspect that the other squeaking and creaking could be coming from the strut bushings and/or strut bearing.
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2005 F350 4x4... I just installed some Bilstein 5100 on all 4 corners. Stock truck. No lift.
Now every bump I go over the truck squeaks and creaks like crazy. It's embarrassing. Sounds like bushings? Truck was fine before with the stock Ranchos.
I torqued rear to 46ftlbs and front to 76ftlbs. I tightened the top nut until the bushings compressed 1/4" each.
No instructions came with them. Do I need to lube something?
This was a last minute install before a road trip and they ride great but I'm hoping the noise is something I can take care of.
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My 2008 rear suspension creaks and squeaks and groans when I move my horse trailer. Truck has 32k miles, has done since purchase last year, squirted wd 40 and that works. At ford place now, they say it is because I added the ride rite air bags. Told them it made same sound before I installed. What to tell them (tech service bulletins ?) or give up and keep spraying and looking for dry joint?
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So I've been able to suppress all of the rattles in my car except one: The cluster trim right above the display rattles, it creaks, hell, I can hold a conversation with it. What can be done to remedy it? The 'turn up the radio' technique doesn't work.
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I recently noticed that I start hearing some tiny squeaks coming from the suspension somewhere when I get on or off the car, or rock the car from the inside. I have a 2011 with 70k miles, always been a CA car.
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Having squeaks coming from their window seal between the glass and the seal? I mean, it can get really bad... I have to roll my windows down a touch and then it's a smooth, quiet ride. I was going to try and drag a small amount of some kind of lube around the seal soon.
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I am having problems with squeaks and other noises from the dash. The dealer sprayed some foam on the dash board (underside of it) to quiet the noises. It didn't work. The repair order says he sprayed the air bag cover. I'm not an expert on air bags but would this effect the function of the bag?
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I have been experiencing some unwanted noises coming from the rear of my SF. I finally had the opportunity to ride in the back seat while someone else drove. I was able to determine that one rattle/squeak was coming from the styrofoam pieces in the storage area. I pushed the entire set as far to the rear as possible. Even though they only moved a fraction of an inch, the noise stopped.
Another noise is coming from the seat backs. Specifically, the seams where each seat back touches each other. They create a squeeking noise as the seat backs vibrate. I can make it stop by folding the middle section down, and therefore it doesn't touch the seat back on either side. I'd like to not have that be my solution though. I'm thinking some lubrication, such as silicon spray, on the surfaces that touch each other would stop it. I have no clue what silicone spray would do to leather in the long term though.
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My 8-year-old (2003), 134k mile Nissan Maxima has a new quirk. When the car is started from completely cold (as in over night), there is a distinctive intermittent squeaking noise (think water being rubbed against glass) coming from the left front somewhere near the tire. The car only does this for about 5 minutes or so until it's warmed up and it has to be going 20 miles an hour before it starts. Once the car is up and running you can turn it on and off all day, let it sit for a few hours even, and it's fine. What's going on?
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I have a '99 Passat 4 door sedan, 1.8t and have started to notice some serious groans and squeaks in the front end. I can get it to squeak in the garage just by pushing up and down on the front end, and by turning the wheel while stationary.
The car's 10 years old and I expect some back talk but, I'm wondering what I can lube on the front end. I took a look last weekend and the cv boots are fine, there's nothing leaking out of the car and no real ugly surprises under the hood.
My cursory peek inside the wheel wells didn't turn up any grease fittings, although I'm guessing there have to be a few. I can, almost fondly, remember all the zirc fittings on my '67 beetle and am wondering if there are any easy solutions to my squeaking/groaning problem.
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I have a 2012 Ford Supercrew, 6.5 FT bed, Ecoboost that I got in April. About two weeks after I got it, someone ran a two way stop right out in front of me and I hit them on my drivers side front. Damage pretty minimal considering their car was totaled. I had my truck back from the body shop about two weeks later. Everything was great.
About 3 weeks after I had gotten my truck back, I began to notice a strange noise that sounded almost like someone was opening a door really slow. (more of a rapid popping sound than a high pitched squeak) It only happened on acceleration and the sound was coming from the passenger side right up next to the firewall. I figured it was something that wasnt tightened correctly from the body work. I took it to Ford for warranty work and told them this story...they werent concerned about the wreck. They suspected suspension...I agreed this was probable.
They checked and tore down the whole front suspension on the passenger side. They ended up replacing that whole side with brand new parts, new shock, upper lower control arms, new coil, gaskets, etc. Problem was still not fixed.
I took it back to the body shop where it was worked on and had the foreman ride with me so he could listen to noise. He said that he believed it was the suspension as well. He said that most of the bushings that sit on top of the coil come from the factory sort of dry...he suggested breaking it down and putting teflon grease between the bushing and the top of the coil tower that mounts to the frame. He said he has had luck with that.
Long story short, the driver side began doing the same thing. I took it back to Ford and they agreed to try what the body shop foreman had told me. Still no luck!
My front suspension has been replaced and broken completely down three times, tightened back up to factory specs, and re-aligned...and still no fix!
It sounds like a truck with 250,000 miles when I first accelerate, and I can still here it a cruising speeds when I hit bumps (air has to be off to hear it well)...
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I just started getting a squeaking noise when driving over bumps. It sounds like it is coming from the back seat area. I have search and cant find anything..
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Noticing rattles, squeaks and/or buzzing vibrations?
I have a rattle from the rear driver's side, a vibration from the passenger-side dashboard and a squeak in or near the front passenger seat. I feel like I'm losing my mind!
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So I have a 2013 Passat I bought on 1/2013 and it currently has 25,9XX miles and it's having a lot of loud squeaks while driving. It turned out to be an issue with the rear brake rotors which they are saying aren't covered due to being a wear and tear item but wouldn't <26k be abnormal wear and not fall under that exclusion? Both the service department and the person I spoke to at VWoA said they had never heard of anything like this happening before.
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I've got a 2006 b6 2.0 with about 92k on it. I bought it Cpo at around 68k 3 years ago this December. My auto tech said I'm going to need a new timing belt in about a month, so once this semester is over in a few weeks I'll be taking it in for that. Anyway, to my questions. My front suspension squeeks quite a bit going over bumps, especially when cold. Is this a sign of bad things to come in the future? Now my brakes, when they get wet they give off a very rough feeling, not very smooth. I have to slam on my brakes to 'wake them up'. Is this telling me they need to be replaced?
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I am getting 20 intermittent ground fault codes and the kid I bought the car from had an alternator put in. I see a terminal closest to the front of the car on the alternator that has no thick wire attached to it and when I was at the junkyard they had wires connected to them. I cleaned all other grounds on the car that I can access so I think that could be the issue but I don't know where the wire should lead to and how the alternator should be grounded!
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The P1116 and P1121 codes have shown up on my 2009 Gen II Prius about a month ago. The CEL is intermittent - it will disappear on its own within a few drive cycles to a week, only to come back again. I'm not sure what to do next - should I go ahead and replace the three-way coolant valve or water pump or both?
Of note I also hear a "push-pull" noise from the engine compartment. Sometimes it persists through an entire drive (my trips are usually short, under 30 minutes) or sometimes it will only happen upon a cold start then stop after a few minutes of driving. What the noise indicates? It sure sounds like some sort of valve or piston opening and closing. It's faint so I've "enhanced" it to make it louder.
Apparently I can't upload .wav's here, so I placed it on dropbox. And since I only have one post, I can't directly link to it. So I will post three replies in order to paste in the link.
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Previously on "This Old Truck": [URL] ....
Mileage now 298,5xx. Done since last report: Oil change and filter. Trans oil change (merconIII, no leaks apparent). Tires. Front brake pads. Clutch safety switch (was interfering with cruise control operation) Coolant replacement. (see below)
Rat damage related overheat (near total coolant loss, but no MIL) at 288k. (Rat suffered acute lead poisoning later that night) No sign of rodents since.
Fuel filter change (after onset of symptoms).
NO MIL/CEL, no pending codes. CEL/MIL operates on KOST.
Temps normal (190F +/-2 deg during steady-state cruise operation, fuel flows and fuel mileage have not changed significantly. (fuel mileage has IMPROVED approx 5%, possibly due to gentler/slower driving)
M5OD with Limited slip 3.73/ payload pkg II (1650lbs)
Symptoms:
- Intermittent misfire on startup, seems to get better as the truck warms up. (intermittent= some days it do, some days it don't.)
- Truck starts and idles well, even with misfire.
- Intermittent loss of power, usually worse on days when no- or minor- misfire at startup/cold idle. From the driver seat it feels like accelerating over painted lines on a rainy day. . . a couple revs of no power, then it pulls hard for a second or two, then misses a couple of shots, lather, rinse, repeat.
- Usually worse in higher gears; (not noticeable in first or 2nd, bad in 3rd at high power settings, now almost constant in 5th, to the point that truck will not accelerate below 3000rpm in 5th even on flat ground.)
- Fuel flows above 4GPH/ OBDII "LOD" (engine load) reported above 75% are typical during malfunction. (Fuel flows have been as high as 9GPH with no problems on other days.)
Symptoms started at approx 292k and have been slowly getting worse over the past few months. . . . usually worse at beginning of trip, fading to very occasional after 50 miles of high-speed driving. Some days/trips no noticeable malfunction.
Thoughts:
1) Ignition wires tired? (did visual inspection, no obvious damage, but no water spray test performed, but seems likely given that the problem is most evident in conditions that would lead to high cylinder pressures.)
2) Fuel pressure? (not measured yet. . . original pump but possibility discounted due to intermittent nature of malfunction.)
3) O2 sensors tired/rat damage? (Original units still installed/ no obvious damage on cursory visual inspection under truck)
4) Injector going bad or injector wiring rat damage?
5) Plugged catalytic converters? (no sound of blown exhaust gaskets, exhaust flows well at tailpipe, with puffs at misfire.)
6) Cam sensor? (never been replaced; known issue with this model engine. Had intermittent mystery squeak that came and went at approx 250k-260k)
7) Clutch slipping? (never had one do that; always lose the throw-out first)
8) LSD problem? (fluid level/ appearance ok, last changed 150k; would expect worse in LOW gears)
9) Blown head gasket/s?
10) Cracked heads/ block? (Oil and coolant levels and appearance normal)
So: That's the plan of attack. What am I missing? (Clutch last done approx 170k; burned throw-out, did disk, flywheel, pressure plate, slave cylinder while the trans was down. I did not open the hydraulics or disturb the pedal linkage when I replaced the safety switch. )
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2006 F150 4.2 fuel issue? I get an intermitent no start condition and no obd codes. Then I discover that it really isn't intermittent, it only occurs after I have been running the engine. It will not start for at least 5-10 minutes after I have driven a few miles and shut the engine off. So if I wait 5-10 minutes then she starts and runs just fine. I played with this in the driveway to recreate this condition so I could determine if I had a spark or fuel issue (I have spark during no start). I found that 50% of the time I could start it right back up immediately after I shut the engine off. But if I shut it off right away again, then I got the no start condition again and have to wait another 5-10 minutes.
Now with cold engine I can start the motor over and over. To fix this I read forum after forum, which led me to decide that I had a fuel pump driver problem (module) located on back axle under spare tire. I replaced this and restarted the engine many times. The problem seemed to be gone but this only lasted about 30 minutes. Then it would not start at all and still no codes. I plugged my old module back in and the truck fired right up. So I decided I needed to (flash) pcm for new part but that changes nothing. Still no start with new module and runs with old module. I also replaced relay in fuse panel.
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