2001 1.8T ... using oil 500ml/100km
- Blowing smoke-intermittent
- Power loss-intermittent
Some jelly white stuff in oil may not be related... Service techs looking at turbo....
I have an 07 6.0 with 400,000 miles. Has been a great truck with no major problems. Before I started the work I had 3 bad injectors, running rough and the oil/ coolant temp just outside of 15 degrees. So I tour her down and replaced head gaskets, installed arp studs,all new injectors,all new glow plugs and new oil cooler. Ran great for a couple days. Then when driving to work lost power on and off for a few miles then completely gone could only go 10 miles an hour. I checked codes and there was the under boost code witch has been on there for a while and I forget the other code but it was for the ipr valve so I replaced the valve and right after still the same but that code went away and the p0470 popped up. So I cleaned out the ep sensor tube and replaced the valve. After several miles she now runs great but now I'm getting a little puff of white smoke when I take off and not every time and mainly when I take off some what quick. All codes are gone expect the under boost. I have an egr delete already.
View 7 RepliesVehicle details : PASSAT 2.0 TDI 170 BHP DSG - 2007 ... 160KM
Problem:-
>>RPM doesn't climb as it should and esp in the run up to 3 gear and the DSG up shifts too quickly 4th and 5th
>>Loss of power. Pressing the gas pedal during all this leads to lots of black smoke and jerking but eventually the car picks up rpm and speed. Am I stuck in limp-home mode here?
>> No CEL light (yet)
The problem becomes very prominent when the engine warms up fully. Its drivable before that. Driving it in Sports mode is the only saving grace. Note that the car it is nothing like how it should be in sports mode, but feels better. I can hear the turbo whistle only when the engine is cold.
Initially, the Engine mounts were thought to be the culprit (for jerking and then ECU reducing power) and then later the EGR value unit (jerking/pinking and power loss).
Work done so far :
1. Original VW Timing Belk Kit (incl water pump) - September 2012
2. Engine Mounts changed - - September 2012
3. Has been plugged into VAG Diagnostic software and an intermittent error was detected for EGR.So, EGR valve control unit was changed - late December 2012
4. Engine Oil (5W-30, fully Synth) and filter changed three time in space of last 10K KMs after I bought the car in September 2012. This is something I wanted to get done anyway to flush the engine
5. Used injector cleaning additives couple of times -December 2012
6. ECU (error-code) reset procedure, just a couple of days ago. This actually seemed to remove some of the jerking and loss of power, but it appears to be coming back now.
7. Transmission reset - yesterday . Did this anyway although the DSG seems to be fine, no problems with the gear shifts
2.0t's smoke alot at WOT. I haven't seen it first hand from behind the car, but when I floor it and look in the rear view I see a little bit of smoke. Not black or anything. It has always been this way. Bought the car new (2006). Is this natural for the FSI?
View 6 RepliesI may have an issue with my engine. My car is beginning to blow some blue smoke when I romp on it. It doesn't break up at all, there isn't any loss of power. It's just blowing some smoke and I noticed a light oil build up on my exhaust tips. I don't think I need to be hugely concerned yet, but I am bringing it to the dealership tomorrow just to make sure.
View 9 RepliesMy 1991 mini-motorhome, built on a Toyota pickup chassis with the v-6 engine & 5-speed recently developed a "hiccup" immediately after having the ignition distributor, rotor & wires replaced along with new belts, hoses, valve adjustment, etc. No work was done on the fuel system. Every once in a while (15 minutes to an hour or more, never more frequently) the engine will lose power for about 1/4 of a second, followed by a "thunk" as the slack in the drive train is taken up. It's easy to ignore except when I'm laboring up a mountain in third gear when the "thunk" becomes an alarming "bang". Other than that, it runs beautifully. Check engine light is not on. I haven't been able to associate the hiccup with load, speed, temperature, or anything else. My mechanic has no idea what it could be, and it didn't misbehave when he drove it. What's going on?
View 2 RepliesI have a F350 that has intermittent power loss.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 Excursion. This weekend, I noticed some intermittent failure of the power steering where it seemed like the pump was not engaging and then would all of the sudden. Deciding to try to head off a failure, I got a reman unit from Oreilly and installed it this morning. It was fine when I tested, had good brakes and went locked to lock quietly without fuss. Let the house and within a mile, I lost steering and brake assist. I stopped and turned around, but what I am noticing is that at idle, I have no power steering, but when the RPM's are up, I do.
View 3 RepliesIntermittent loss of power (could be describe momentarily stuttering) with momentary illumination of the check engine soon light. Its only happened a couple of times. Maybe about a year ago (I changed the fuel filter after it occurred). It occurred again about a month ago and then again yesterday. About a month ago I had a friend with a scanner look at the codes and he said there was only one and it was for low fuel pressure. Its been maybe 5k since I changed the fuel filter.
The truck is driven intermittently, maybe 5k or 6k a year, and usually parked with a full tank of fuel. What areas I should look at to correct this? I got my stock 2001 F350 4x4 manual transmission in 2004 with about 157k miles. Today I've got about 228k miles.
Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
Today I was riding along and all of a sudden I noticed a loss of power. I look in the rear view mirror and get into the pedal and a lot of black smoke. When I get to where I'm going and stop I noticed the idol was a little loopy. I never saw a check engine light. I have the Edge insight. I had two codes. P1000 OBD System readiness test not complete. P2290 ICP TO LOW.
When I would reset the codes the P1000 came back instantly every time. I parked the truck for about an hour. When I started it back up everything was normal. The power was back and no smoke. This happened two more times throughout the day. I have heard people describe a sticking EGR Valve causing these symptoms. Is that where I should start looking or is the ICP the culprit or something else?
My 96 Passat GLX-VR6 Wagon is blowing a white smoke that smells like maple syrup if I do any temp adjustments on my AC. It's also not blowing any cool or cold air in the coldest setting. Any thoughts? Heater Core? Just need freon?
View 3 RepliesI was on 285 tonight in Atlanta and had a very hard time seeing because of all the white smoke. I thought some old GM car or Ford was billowing white smoke through the exhaust.
When I finally caught up to what was the cause I was shocked to see it was a Passat. A 2014 at that! 1.8 Turbo. I followed her into a Kroger Grocery store parking lot and parked as close as I could. She was unaware that her car was smoking out of her exhaust. I told her she needed to bring her car to the dealer asap and have them look at it. The white smoke was coming out of her exhaust even after she turned the motor off. She had no clue. I would say she was in her middle 70's age wise. It think she talked to me because I was in a Passat that "looked" like her car. Interesting to me to say the least. What could this possibly be?
I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
My 02 excursion is missing at idle and jars the whole truck around going approx 50mph feels like good amount of power loss but still pushing 30psi boost, just got autoenginuity all injectors buzz fine on the test, contribution test show balance fault in cylinders 1&8, should I look for o-rings to be bad, uvch, cups cracked or what ----- turbo fine, hpop great condition, new IPR, new fuel pump and hutch mod, about. 250k miles on truck nothing else major showed up on ae.
View 5 RepliesOk so the wife and I were heading home, she was in her 2.0t sedan, I was in my 3.6 4motion wagon. I got stuck behind a slow driver on the highway (doing 50 in a 70 mph zone) so I get in the passing lane and I floor it to pass him. When I get home, my wife tells me she saw a good amount of black/blue smoke coming out my tail pipes when I went to pass the other driver. This is on a engine with 2400 miles.
I take a look, and the chrome exhaust tips I had installed not long ago are now all black, covered in a oily thick residue. These same exhaust tips were on my previous 07 3.6 4motion wagon for 10k miles and was still shiny when I took them off. but after about 1k miles on the 08, they are now all black. I check the oil and it still reads full.
So what could this black smoke and this oily residue on the exhaust tips be caused by? should I be concerned? Engine runs fine with the exception of sometimes stalling when trying to start it after a short stop. (VAG-COM doesn't show any error codes logged.
I have an Excursion with 220k miles. I've owned the truck for 6+ years and had very few problems. I change my own oil and fuel filters, but beyond that I know next to nothing about the diesel motor. I do run a DP Tuner with the standard 80 hp program. And a 4" exhaust. Everything else is stock. I do keep it plugged it for the oil heater and the battery tender just about all the time now.
This latest issue started yesterday morning when my wife jumped in a cool truck to take the kids to the dentist (not warmed up but still 55 degrees ambient). A few miles down the road (35 mph max) the motor began stumbling and rocking and black smoke coming from the exhaust with reduced power. She pulled off and kept it running (very rough and rocking) and put it in park for a minute. When she put back in drive, it shifted heavily but the power was normal so she went on her way without any problems. The only report I got sounded like the motor was just cold and rough, so I thought nothing more of it.
Yesterday evening we drove it about 70 miles on the highway (72 mph max) with no issue at all, but when we continued on surface streets toward our destination (50 mph max) it did the same thing, but would not settle back down. I kid you not that it went through gallons of fuel the last 12 miles or so, just dumping black smoke out the exhaust. It felt to me like we were running 1/2 the motor, like the plugs weren't lit. Very rough and rocking and very little power (comparatively, at least). I had to switch to manually shifting the trans to get going and the shifts were much rougher than usual. Idle was low and rough but it never stalled. Behind me there was a huge smoke screen this entire time.
We made it to our destination and parked it. Did our thing and after 5 hours went out with finger crossed. Started right up and ran perfectly the entire 91 miles home. No motor or trans issues at all. Currently running 10/40 synthetic oil that I just changed about 2000 miles ago. Oil level is perfect. 3/4 tank of fuel with standard level of Diesel Kleen added. Fuel filter is less than 10k miles old. Temps yesterday were 65-70 on the drive down and 50-55 on the way back.
I jiggled all sorts of connectors this morning and didn't find anything loose.
I've been having a problem over the past month with my base 2014 Elantra (33k miles). Sometimes when I go to start the car there is a complete loss of electrical power. One of a couple of scenarios will occur:
1) Key Fob will not unlock/lock doors:
*There is no power to anything (no dash lights, interior lights, car won't crank).
2) Key Fob will unlock/lock doors:
* Either all interior lights will be on and when I attempt to crank everything shuts off (no dash lights, interior lights, etc)
* Or Clock and radio are reset, car starts fine
* The battery checks out as far as voltage/charge.
* There are no visible fuse issues.
* There are no check engine lights.
I have had it in the dealer the past 4 days and they haven't been able to reproduce the issue. So far I have been able to eventually get it to start by opening and shutting doors, which would lead me to believe it is a loose connection somewhere, but again the dealer hasn't been able to diagnose anything.
My 01 VW Jetta with 181690 miles started having intermittent loss of power a year ago:
1) it never conks out;
2) it loses power on the highway at 70 or in town at 25;
3) engine is usually hot, about an hour into a trip, but now does it cold, too;
4) weather doesn't matter: dry or wet;
5) check engine light flashes while it happens
6) it feels like it's running out of gas but isn't.
Mechanics have tried the following: Note: every time I brought it in to be looked at, the symptoms above were happening :
1) March 2013: replaced coil pack and it ran fine until Sep;
2) Sep 2013: ran Dx on check engine light: "arching all over the place" so replace spark plug wires;
3) Dec 2013: got oil changed
4) Jan 2014: ran Dx and was told crack in piston;
5) Jan 2014: got second opinion and told wrong spark plugs were used (single electrode vs triple electrode)-replaced all spark plugs; got car inspected and had oil changed again as it was dirty;
6) Feb 2014 mechanic is stumped, but found an article about clean oil and changed the oil again. Oil was down almost a quart.
I’m having an issue with my 2004 Hyundai Elantra cutting off, and what to check for next. Basically I have a very intermittent issue where the car seems to lose electrical power for a split second (or possibly total loss of gas – as in, it doesn’t seem to be misfiring, just seems to totally lose all power). If it happens when I first start the car up, the car will start up for a second and then cut off. It also happens randomly when driving at any speed, and when it happens while driving, it just goes out for a split second, and then cuts back on and I can keep driving, so the RPMs Rev up for a second as a result when it kicks back on, but then goes back to normal. But it is completely intermittent, as in, some days it will not do it at all on my 30-min drive to work. I even went a whole week without it happening. But this week it has come back. Some days it will do it 3 times, some days 20 times. Some days its hard to get my car started, because it keeps cutting off when I start it. But so far after I try around 5-10 times it will start up and keep going. Also, this may indicate nothing, but when it goes out for that split second, I can hear a click, or electrical sounding click coming from the dash/instrument panel area. Which is what makes it seem electrical in nature, but I could be wrong, could be a spark/gas thing.
This has been happening it seems no matter what the weather is outside (its been anywhere from the 20s to 60s here in the last few weeks) and it doesn’t seem to matter if the car is warmed up or not. Also, so far the check engine light has not come on, so it makes me think it might not be a sensor, since those will usually trigger the light when they start going bad. Also, when the car is running, it runs perfect. Idles perfect, drives perfect, no misfires, no hesitation, etc. The ONLY problem is it cutting out. Also, it doesn’t seem to matter if the fuel tank is full or half empty. I had read in one place that if the vapor recovery charcoal canister gets full of gas, it will vent liquid fuel instead of vapor, which can result in car cutting off or running rough, but this usually only happens when fuel tank is full. So I suppose it could be this, but I doubt it.The car has 180k miles. Iridium plugs have 60k on them. Wires have 60k on them. Original fuel pump and fuel filter. I wouldn’t think it would be the filter since when it runs it runs perfect. I guess could possibly be the pump having an intermittent issue. Trying to avoid replacing that for now unless I knew it was the problem.
What I’ve done so far:
•I made sure the battery cables are tight and clean at the connection
•I checked as many grounds as I could find, they all seem good
•Alternator puts out a perfect amount of voltage
•I swapped the ECU main relay and fuse with another relay and fuse in the fuse box that were identical
•I swapped the Fuel Pump relay with an identical one in the box
•I replaced the Crankshaft position sensor
•I cleaned the Mass Airflow sensor (though it looked spotless)
•I looked around for any vacuum hoses that were disconnected. Didn’t find any
•I’ve tried resetting the ECU (unplug battery for a while) and I thought that fixed it at first, but then it came back a few days later. And now resetting ECU seems to have no effect.
Some possibilities of what it could be:
•Fuel pump intermittent issue?
•Camshaft position sensor?
•ECU problem?
•Catalytic convertor going bad?
•Some other sensor going bad?
•Possibly the vapor recovery charcoal canister is full of fuel as described above
•ignition coils – but I doubt it since you’d usually get a misfire/engine light when those go bad (from experience)
•Fuel pressure regulator – but I doubt it, based on the symptoms. Seems like I’d have other symptoms.
I’m not convinced of any of these above, and some of them I wouldn’t know how to check (like for a bad ECU). What it might be? Getting nervous driving 75mph on the interstate with someone behind me and the car cutting out. Luckily so far it doesn’t cut completely off when I’m up to speed with someone behind me!
I have a 2001 F450 7.3 chassis cab with just over 100k. I have a new problem... So far on two different occasions the service engine came on followed by a loss of power under a load and white smoke from the exhaust. Took it to the shop the first time, they determined it to be a dirty air filter, which seemed odd since it just happened all of a sudden. They changed air & fuel filter, problem gone- for two weeks..
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