I am having a problem when i go to start my car. I only seems to happen in the morning. The car will start and then 2 seconds later it will die. The only way i can get it to go is my jamming it in drive.. and then still it takes the car like 2 minutes before it will pick up speed and start driving normal.
View 2 RepliesMy 2001.5 Passat, 143,000 miles, has a problem which has me stumped. In the morning it won't catch. Starter turns over fine. Have to pump gas a bit. After 7 or 8 attempts, it (grumbling) coughs, chokes and then roughly starts. If I let it sit for a few minutes, it smooths out. After that, I have no trouble starting up the rest of the day, and engine runs smoothly and quietly. One buddy sez its the fuel pump; buddy #2 sez its the MAF filter; #3 sez its a sensor or maybe gummed up fuel injection. I used injector cleaner, but it hasn't worked.
View 3 RepliesCar has 6600 miles on it and is back in the shop for 2nd time to determine what is wrong. Basically, the car starts and then stalls out after a few seconds. It will not start again (at least with me). Course, the dealer can get it started after the tow to them.It began in April after an oil change at the dealer. A week after the change, it started up and then a message SHUT DOWN appeared on the dash.
The car stalled and would not restart. When it was towed to the dealer, it had no oil. Per the dealer, there was no leak and it was assumed the tech forgot to put oil in it, They indicated it was not a problem since there was some oil remaining but the car would still not start. They kept it a few days and replaced the relay for the fuel modulator, electronic fuel pump, fuel unit, fuel pump control unit, e-control unit and of course the battery. Note: this was a cold start.
About a month later, I had driven the car for about 30 minutes, left it for an hour and came back to the car.....it stalled again right after start up and would not restart. After being on hold with roadside assistance for awhile, I tried it again and it started without issue. .
A week later (today), used it for a half hour, came back to use it 3 hours later and same story. Started, then stalled, no restart. Towed it to the dealer and the tech got it started but no codes telling him what is wrong.
One of my friends recently asked me to change the timing belt on his 2004 Passat 1.8T. I put on everything as instructed by the manual that the parts department gave me. However, when I start the engine, it runs perfectly for about three seconds, then starts rattling, and stalls out. I took the belt off and put it back on three times and yet, it still continues. This rattling seems to be coming somewhere from within the exhaust system near the engine and sounds like a back-fire. The check engine light also appears when this begins happening. I replaced everything, water pump, pully, tensioner, and etc. Note, I am a professional mechanic and have worked on several Volkswagen cars, including my own, but I never encountered a problem like this one.
View 7 RepliesI have an 05, 2.0 TDI which recently got a a PO118 fault. My mechanic replaced the green top sensor with one with a blue top (having been told that the green top sensors have been updated to blue). I am still getting an occasional PO118 fault but now the auxiliary (a/c) fan or the radiator starts running within a few seconds of start up, A/C on or not. SO, bad sensor, wrong sensor or something else entirely?
View 2 RepliesSounds like a squirrel knocking on the rear hatch for a few seconds. Is this the fuel pump by any chance??
What i have noticed is that the relay clicking in the CECM is no longer clicking, yet now i hear this knocking in the rear hatch area when i start it up after it sits overnight.
My 2004 Camry XLE 4 Cyl has rough starts in the morning. Idle is smooth after it starts, but it just doesn't start as smooth as it does every other start during the rest of the day. Its a significant difference.
Things I've done so far:
-Cleaned the mass airflow sensor with CRC Mass Airflow Cleaner
-Cleaned throttle body by following the DIY
-Changed the Air filter
-Changed Oil (upgraded to Mobile 1 Synthetic, changed filter to Bosch)
-Changed PCV Valve
-Changed Spark Plugs to Iridium Power
It doesn't seem to matter what the weather is like, either way it rough starts. It has been doing this for quite a while now, well before all this maintenance I've been doing lately.
2002 Sante Fe, 2.7L Belt squeals for about 10 seconds when the vehicle is first started up (engine cold) in the morning. Doesn't do it any other time until next morning. I had this problem 6 months ago and replaced the belt (OEM) and Dayco Tensioner. Now I have same issue again! What gives?
View 6 RepliesI have a Hyundai-Accent 1.5 GL, Auto, year 2000 car. I bought this 4 months ago and ever since it has been giving the check engine signal. However, running conditions of the car has been normal and therefore, I didn't worry about the check engine signal. Now, the engine is rough idling for few seconds when I start the car in the morning, and then it comes back to normal.
View 12 RepliesHave a 2008 Saturn - 30,000 miles. Most times it only starts in Neutral first time of day it is used. After this, fine. Had with dealer mechanics for 2 days and they say they can find nothing wrong. Can't do anything unless they have the problem.
View 3 RepliesI have a 04.5 gli 1.8t. When I start the car in the am and give it some gas to go it sputters for a couple seconds and then goes just fine and I have no more issues with it. Where to start looking? No trouble codes thrown either...
View 10 RepliesJust finished putting a hydraulic cooling fan on my wife's 01 LS V8 when I try to start it , it starts then shuts off after a few seconds. Do I need to reset the computer? If I do, how do I do it.
View 11 RepliesI've shipped my R32 back to the UK, the combination of cold and damp weather has taken it's toll on my car. I started it up Saturday and left it ticking over to allow it to warm up before driving it. The car is used to Houston heat, so a few minutes running will allow the oil to warm a little as the weather here is around 40F at the moment. The car ran for 5 or so minutes, then stalled.
The car starts to about 3 seconds, then dies. I have checked VAGCOM, the only fault is a steering wheel sensor (?). It has a full belly of Shell 99 RON fuel and was serviced just before if left the USA in October.
I have had it towed to the local dealer for repair. I have tried disconnecting the battery for 30 mins to reset the car, it didn't make any difference. I have also tried another key in case it's s sync problem.
I have a 1982 short-box chevy pick-up with a diesel 8 cylinder 6.2L that will start and run for a few seconds and then shuts down. It may restart and do the same thing. It will not keep running after an initial few seconds.
I have a mechanic that operates an automotive repair business in our hamlet and he took it on although not an expert on diesels. He works on it when he gets time and talking to him today he feels it must be an electrical problem shutting things down as fuel is getting from the fuel pump to the injection pump.
I have owned this 01 LS with a V8 for about a year now and have had it to the dealer at least 6 times. After bringing the car in twice, the dealer finally found that there was a problem with the fuel injector. 3 months later the problem came back - basically the car takes 3-6 seconds of cranking before it starts (from a cold start of more than 2 hours). The last 3 times I have had it in the dealer has reprogrammed the computer and thought it was fixed - Wrong! After this last time, the dealer said they could not find a problem and felt they were doing all they could - in fact, they told me to switch to a lower octane gas and see if that works.
View 14 RepliesI bought the prius fog lights from and installed them per the instruction guide.
The lights work great but one BIG issue.
I cannot lock my car because after 3 seconds my alarm starts going off. Also whenever I start my car it chirps at me regardless if the alarm has gone off yet.
My car is currently on the road unlocked.
So i start my car and it starts easy but after a few seconds it dies. I can get it to keep running by changing the fuel mixture but then it has no throttle and it will die if i try to use the throttle. It is 1985 VW Jetta engine in a 1981 Scirocco
View 2 Replies02 Jetta GLS Turbo 1.8. The car runs perfectly fine, and has good power, but one out of 5 starts at minimum it sets the check engine light exactly 6 seconds after starting the engine. It is most commonly a P0340 - Cam Position Sensor Circ Error, I'd say 70% of the time. The other 30% of the time it is a P0011 - Camshaft Position Timing-Over-Advanced. And once or twice it set a P0012 - Camshaft Position Timing-Over-Retarded. It will only ever set one of the codes. I clear it after it sets, and it will never set the code while driving the car.
- I've double-checked the timing belt, and it is spot on. Could not ask for a more perfect lineup of the timing marks.
- There is no noise or rattle on cold start
- The car carries good oil pressure and I'm on a fresh change with Pentosin 5w40
- I checked continuity on the outer two pins on the cam position sensor with a result of 1.910 ohms.
What I should be looking for next? Almost spent for a new cam position sensor, but hate to throw money if there is something I could test to narrow this down. I can't find any test procedures in the Bentley manuals, but maybe I'm not looking in the right spots. The index has no mention of the camshaft position sensor.
I have an 04 w12 with 80k miles on it. It will start fine but will not run for more than 10 seconds. As it idles down from startup it settles to about 700 RPM's where it normally does then dies. If u drive it it will start and go into gear fine as u go to pull away it loses all power and dies. I have checked the minor things i know like air filters, oil, tranny juice all appears normal. New batteries less than 3 months ago also.
View 11 RepliesI've been having some issues with my mk4 R32. Right now i'm leaning toward changing the fuel pump and filter but i want to be sure before i do.....
Problem: I've been daily driving my r32 to work for the past couple weeks and about once a week it will start, idle for a couple seconds and then just bog out and die. no codes, just idle, then chugging and dying. it will fire with some starter fluid and will sometimes hold a very sickly idle but most the time will just run the starter fluid out. the weird thing is is that it's intermittent and will happen randomly and if i leave it overnight or sitting for a couple hours it will fire up like nothing was wrong. i just wanted some input on what it might be before i replace the pump. i have already done the relay so its not that.... the only code that it has ever thrown while i have owned it was for the intake changeover valve (N156) which i cleared and it hasnt yet to come up again.....
My car has the same issue, its a 2001 santa 2.4 . Its starts and then shut off after 3 seconds. camshaft was replaced twice already. still same issue, die after 3 seconds. everything seems to be fine.
What about fuel pressure at the rails? If the pump runs for a moment when the key is turned to the on position then when cranking it stops. That would let the engine start and run for about three seconds. Could it be the ignition switch?