Passat (B5) :: Idle Very Rough And Check Engine Light Began To Blink And Beep
Sep 2, 2008
Wifes car began to idle very rough and check engine light began to blink and beep, I took it to the mechanic today and he informed me that my control module was no good and it was a $400 dollar piece. I said go ahead get it done, cuz she needs the car and i couldn't afford to not have it done immediately. Question I have is does this small-ass piece really go for that much on average and what control module is it?
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So I was driving my 2001 1.8t last night and put the pedal to the floor to make a yellow light and the check engine light began to blink and the engine started running very rough ever since. It idles very rough and it seems like I have lost a lot of the power.
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My wife has a 2003 Pontiac Grand am GT 3.4L V6. A few days ago my wife was out and tried to start the car and the service engine light came on and began to blink. (Prior to this the car was running well with no service engine light) The car was running very rough at this point so we shut the car off and I pulled the codes at witch four codes came up witch were: P0205, p0206, p0300, p0443. So I had the car towed to the shop and they said that they thought that it was the oxygen sensor but after that had been replaced they had concluded that the oxygen sensor was not the problem so they had placed the old one back in. Then they said that they restarted the car and it was running fine but then pulled it out of the shop and began to run rough again.
At this point they were thinking that there was a short so they checked the wiring from the ecm (?) back to the oxygen sensor and could not find any problems. And needless to say they started the car and it began to run fine again so they told me to come and pick it up and drive it for the weekend just to see if it was a lose connection that was possibly there. So needless to say once I picked it up the service engine light was still on but the engine sounded good so I figured I would drive the car home and maybe the light would shut off. Well upon taking off and getting a few miles down the road the engine started to idol at 2000 rmp when in park or neutral.
So I stopped and pulled the code and got P0443 again so while I had the scan tool connected I cleared the codes to see if the light would come back on with the same code or with multiple again. The service engine light stayed off. So the high idol continued for a few miles I also did try to restart the car and the problem did persist. About 5 more miles down the road the car started to overheat and the reservoir had overheated. So at this point the engine sounds good it is not running rough but is really high idol. The check engine light did not come on since I cleared the codes in that short drive but I do not want to drive it because of the overheating. I do know that the coolant level was good when we started the car.
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My 1999 Passat 1.8T (AEB engine) with 120,000 miles has run very well lately.............except for a recent problem. I drove 150 miles on southern California freeways, parked the car for an hour, then started it again. There was a distinct miss and the check engine light began flashing. I turned it off, let it sit for a couple hours, then plugged in a code reader. There were two codes, both the same - P-0302, "Cylinder #2 misfire". I pulled the cover off the engine, wiggled the wiring to the #2 coil, cleared the codes and started it up. There was no miss, maybe there was a little corrosion on the electrical connection?? I know there was a recall on the coils, but my car was too old to participate in the recall. Which it is - bad connection, bad coil, or something else? Or a way to diagnose it further?
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I have had my 07 now for a few months. The other day during a trip, I noticed my TPMS light began to blink, and then stayed constantly on. I checked my pressures at the end of the day and they were all right where they should be, including the spare. When I start the car, the TPMS light will blink for some time, and then it will go steady and stay illuminated.
Took the car to a tire shop and they hooked the tpms scan tool up to the car and told me I had a bad sensor. I did some reading online today and it seems like a lot of people say the sensors that come from the factory for these cars only last for about 5 years until the internal battery dies.
For what it costs to get one sensor replaced, knowing that the car is 5 years old and the other 3 sensors are prone to fail, I see some people are making little PVC canisters and putting all 4 sensors in the canister and pressurizing it to make the light go away. But my sensors are broke, and if I bought new ones I do not have a tool to program them.
Is there anything that can be unplugged, or a wire that can be cut or grounded to make this stupid, pointless light go away or am I pretty much at the mercy of the tire shop/dealer to replace the sensor and make the light go away?
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New 2012 Tiguan S with a manual, 800 miles and the check engine light comes. Seems to idle a little rough, at least the idle seems to fluctuate a bit. The real disappointing part is I took it in to the dealer expecting an easy fix within an hour, its now been at the dealer for 2.5 days and they'll have it over the weekend as well. They tried putting several parts in it, still didn't fix it. They called VW who said pull out the new parts, put back the old parts, and apply some software update. Dealer did that, still not fixed.
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Filled tank with 8 gallons of 91 octane to top off. One hour later noticed car running rough at idle then check engine light comes on. Could it be the coil pack? Car has been running very well until now, and this Gremlin appears. I don't think it's the gas.
2004 -V8 Treg
52,000 on the odometer
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I just purchased my first foreign car ever. it is a 2002 Elantra it idles very rough changed plugs using NGK and wires new fuel filter and ran 2 full tanks of high grade fuel with STP fuel injector cleaner. but had no effect on idle also have no check or service engine light. What to check next?
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a 2011 jetta. brake pedal is hard no pumping action. The car show check engine. The idle is not smooth.
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I just bought this car from the original owner. She didn't take that great of care of the car. First oil change was done at 8,000 miles for example. Basically if it was broken she would fix it, but didn't do much preventative maintenance.
I just replaced all 4 spark plugs and coils since one was misfiring and didn't want to have to go back in and replace one in another few months. Replaced the AC belt a few days ago since it was cracked and worn. All other belts are fine. I drove the car around for a few hours the next day and it ran great.
Today, the check engine light flashes and then stays on. The car is idling rough at stop lights and acceleration is poor. Previously, the light came on and it was the EVAP system. Not sure which component and I was told it isn't supposed to affect the way the car drives.
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My 1998 Toyota Corolla has 180 K miles. Two days ago I was putting the pedal down to get to work on time and it bucked, began chugging like a motorcycle and the check engine light (which was already on because of an emissions issue) began to flash. A mechanic looked at it and saw that cylinder 3 wasn't sparking. He changed the plugs and wires but the engine was still chugging, especially when idling. The mechanic decided it was a stuck or burnt valve because he said he could hear/feel a lack of compression in the cylinder. I'm looking for a second opinion on the issue, and a first opinion on the mechanic!
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I own a 1998 ford f150 4.6l triton v8. I was leaving my house to go on a snowboarding trip about three weeks ago it was a rather warm wet day and all of the sudden my check engine light began to flash. I immediately pulled over and restarted my truck, once it was started again it was solid.
I turned around and started driving towards home. I get a small amount of feedback from my speakers and usually it's a smooth whizzing sound but as i accelerated the sound began to stutter rather than remain smooth. after about 5 minutes of driving this went away and the check engine light remained on.
so today I went out it's also a wet day and it's raining quite a lot. on my way into town everything seemed okay. then on my way home the check engine light began to flash again and the feedback from the speakers became choppy again.
I would also like to mention my battery light is on but it was on prior to the first time this happened. I'm just wondering if the belt could be loose or slipping due to the wet weather?
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My 98' 1.8t AEB was having a bad valve tick so i took the valve cover off and noticed the top camshaft had a lobe eaten away pretty bad and it looks like the bearing next to it was spinning I KNOW that its from a lack of lubrication so that means its my oil pump? there was absolutely no sludge or swarf that i could see.
what made me take the valve cover off was a small oil leak and i thought it was the gasket, but my PCV valve slipped out of its sleeve so thats where the oil came from.
also, every time i started my car the oil would come on right away, beep three times, and blink until i shut the car off.
So, i guess i am wondering, do i have deeper problems here or could i replace the cams, bearings and oil pump?
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My car will drive fine, then @ 60 mph or above sometimes it will sputter and the check engine light will blink on. I brought it to my mechanic and plugged it in. Miss-fire on some spark plugs. They replaced all spark plugs and wires. The car is sill doing the same thing. My mechanic plugged it in again and now just a miss fire on #2 plug. (even after new wires and plug) Only seems to happen once the car is warmed up. If left sitting for 15 hrs the check engine light goes off completely. Only to come on again, after driven 25 or more miles. What could be wrong?
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I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
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I just replaced fuel pump and tps on my 1989 Dodge Dakota 4 cyl truck. Now it idles rough and the check engine light came on. I have removed battery cable to reset computer but did no good. What could be the problem now? I have since replaced the plug wires and distrib cap and it is flashing 3 5 5 twice now?
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My 3.0 with 216k miles has developed a rough idle and it progressively got better with new parts and cleanings. On startup it revs up to 2k then back down to 600. If I let it idle for about 8 or so minutes my Check Engine Light starts flashing. If I drive about for a little bit it stops and is just fine.
While the light is flashing I get codes P1000, P0305, P0306, and P0316. Which are OBDII Monitor Testing Not Complete, Misfire detected in Cyl 5, Misfire detected in Cyl 6 and Engine Misfire Detected on Startup (First 1000 Revolutions) respectively. Any other time the truck runs like a dream. Gets 20 city and 29.5 highway.
I cleaned my Mass Air Flow, replaced my Idle Air Control, SeaFoamed throttle body and vacuum lines, brand new coil pack, new wires, new plugs, new fuel filter, I've only ever run 91 octane, Chevron with Techron goes in at every oil change and B12 every other and I just ran 3 bottles of Lucas fuel injector cleaner.
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I started out with my 2000 F150 with a 5.4 V8 running rough at idle. It would idle way down slow and then rev up a little over and over. On a couple of occasions it would even die when in drive or reverse. I did finally get a Check Engine light so i put it on my diagnostic program to see what was up. Here is what I got:
P1151 Lack of HO2S21 Indicates Lean
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
p0174 System Too Lean Bank 2
After doing some reading up I checked all my vacuum hoses and cleaned my mass air flow sensor. I then got the same codes again after a few minutes of running. So I went to the next thing that was recommended, the upstream bank 2 O2 sensor. After changing it the truck ran fine for a couple of days, no issues. Then all of the sudden it idled a little funny again and I got a Check Engine Light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0300 Random/Multiple Misfire
I reset the light to see if I would get the same again later. Before the light came on again I filled my truck up with gas and it seemed to be running pretty good again. Then a day or so later it set the light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0136 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0156 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 2
P1131 Lack of Switches HO2S11 Lean
P1151 Lack of Switches HO2S21 Lean
I went ahead and drove for a few days as it had gotten really cold here and I didn't feel like messing around in my shop since it isn't heated. A couple days ago I needed gas so i filled up again. Suddenly the problem was gone again. Truck ran fine idled fine no missing or odd idling at all. That lasted a day or two before it started acting a little weird again. At that point i was down about 1/8 of a tank from full. I have read that there can be issues with the fuel pump.. I am kind of wondering if that may be it now. But I haven't had to deal with this sort of issue before so I am unsure what to check next. The truck always runs fine off idle, it only seems to have the issue when it is idling. I had reset the codes the last time and i have the light on again now. I haven't checked it yet but I am sure it is going be some combination of what i have had in the past.
I have read that the IAC valve can be an issue as well. I had a problem with mine sticking a couple years ago and when it would do it you could just tap it with a wrench and it would idle up. But it never died like it does now and it would also idle a lot slower than it does. Back then I cleaned the valve and had no more issues with it. The truck has always had times when it would act weird at idle usually after slowing down after being at highway speed. The current issue happens at all temps cold or hot.
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When I turned on my 2005 Passat V6 this morning, it idled very rough and the check engine light came on. Kind of sounded like a misfire. After about a minute or so, the engine ran as it always has....normal. Smooth as ever. Well I had it scanned at AZ and they said it was in fact a misfire from two of the cylinders. So then I called my local VW service department and the guy there gave me a no nonsense over the phone diagnosis, he told me that he owns a V6 Passat and he encountered the same issue on several occasions when the outside temperature drops precipitously over night. He stated that the misfire is due to condensation in the ignition/coil area. He stated that it is in fact a very common problem and that I would be fine and that the light would go away on it's own. The car is running fine. Should I really worry?
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So I drive a 2001 civic 5-speed and recently my check engine light doesn't go off right away after I start my car. It'll blink for a good 5-10 seconds then stops. Thought it might be the oil, changed it didn't do anything. What it can be?
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Today I got the engine light blink a couple of times and then steady on. Parked the car, waited a few minutes, start again just the engine light on (not blinking anymore).
I scanned the car and got this
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Tuesday, 06 August 2013, 13:48:09:11637
Chassis Type: 3D - B5 VW Phaeton
Scan: 01,02,03,05,06,07,08,09,11,15,16,17,18,19,23,27,34 ,35,36,37,38,42,46,48,49,52,55,56,57,61,62,65,68,6 9,72,76,77
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Controller: 07C 906 018 C
[Code] .....
I have a hard time believing that all coil packs went bad. My wife told me that when she was driving the car she could hear a clicking noise coming from the trunk so I think this could the fuel pump not giving enough fuel but I was hoping to get an error for it.
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