VW Passat b5 1.9 TDi AVF engine ... When I start my car in cold the idle keep moving from 800 to 1100 rpm. and sometimes when i start the engine in hot it revs till 2000 rpm. I never scanned with vag com? I think G62 sensor problem???
View 2 RepliesRecently, my car has been having issues starting. It will start if I get a boost, but will be dead if I turn it off again. Also, while I'm driving, the airbag, ABS, and traction lifts all come on, and eventually my radio will shut off, but after a few minutes the radio will come back on and the warning lights will go off. When i first start the car it idles as it should but if I rev it will idle at about 1100 RPM. What might be causing all of this? Battery? Alternator? Or EPC?
View 7 RepliesThe title pretty much explains it. Coming home today started hearing a squeal/whistle while at highway speed - almost sounds like the brake wear indicator tabs that GM is so fond of. Thought it might be the brakes, but it didn't stop with brake application and continued after coming to a full stop. Also, surging at idle, which seems to be reduced when the A/C compressor is on. The squeal happens both with and without A/C.
View 1 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 03 celica gt with around 126k on it. most resent it has had a problem of high idle its sits anywhere from 1100rpm to 2000rpm. I replaced the the tps sensor figuring it was the problems it seemed to get more consistent with the new tps it now sits at 1100 but it may still be high I don't drive it a lot. And I forgot to mention no engine lite. I've herd its not common with toyota. I also looked for vacuum leaks as well but found nothing.
View 5 RepliesSo my car started doing some weird things. at idle and only at idle it will go up and down between 1100 and 1500 rpm. No throttle input no clutch input or brake input. I do have a CEL on but when I read the code it gives me 01314 on brake electronics setting. I'm using a vchecker pro. I go into all the engine brake airbag and trans menus and do clear fault codes and this fixes it but id like to know what the actual problem is.
View 1 RepliesFor last 3 months I have faced to a problem. My 2009 2.0 TSI, misfiring in cold start (in Summer!). When engine is cold (particularly in the mornings) in FIRST start, RPM goes to 1100 and engine works hard and car badly shakes. If I continue, engine light flashes. But if I just after first start, turn off the engine and restart it again, RPM comes back below 1000 and engine works well!!.
During first start a strange noise comes from the below of the car (Check...check...check...) but in second start everything is OK.
KM is 100k. I red the code and it usually shows P0302 (Misfire in cyl 2) and sometimes P0301 and P0300. I recently change all spark plugs (ngk) but problem had started before sparks change.
I switched the coils to see if misfiring follows the coil but negative.
I know it can have different reasons, PCV, carbon build up, EGR,..... but as it goes just after SECOND start I think it should be an electrical problem.
Audi A3 3.2 owner here from Fortitude and have rough / lumpy idle issues? While at a stop in neutral w/a cold or warm engine, it seems a little rougher than one would expect. If you rev it to 1000-1100 rpm the whole car shakes.
Engine Mounts worn?
APR Software causation?
Cam Followers or faulty coils?
Do I need a heavier duty front and top engine mount?
Wondering if CAI and Exhaust along w/ the APR ECU tune is causing it or if I'm just being paranoid.
I noticed on 5 different occasions so far this year that my idle speed will increase to around 1100 rpms when sitting at idle for more than a few min. Last summer it did it while running a/c, and today it did it with cold weather. The rpms are usually at 550, what happens is the pcm will decide to increase idle speed for no reason at all. Start driving it, and the next time at idle it will stop doing it, a couple times it went down to 550rpms, then went back up to 1100rpms. I recently changed the spark plugs, the air filter is clean, and runs good. I have a code scanner, no pending codes. I have 53k miles. I wonder what could cause this?
View 6 RepliesI have Golf MK4 1.6 16V BCB '02 and problem while engine is running on idle. Engine works at 1100 rpm (doesn't matter is it cold or warm engine) all the time.
Dashboard turns CHECK ENGINE and EPC lamps and says : "engine workshop". At the beggining of problem VAG-COM diagnostic found this error:
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
But after I've changed my old throttle body with new one VAG-COM diagnostic haven't reported any error (no permanent error) and idle issue stays.
While engine is running and Check engine and EPC lapms are turned on diagnostic reports this error:
17961 Barometric/Manifold pressure signals: Implausible Correlation
P1553-35-10 ----Intermittent
After engine is turned off diagnostic doesn't report any error!
Beside of changing throttle body, I've changed ECM, MAP sensor, temperature sensor, EGR valve, . Also checked intake manifold and hoses if is it leaky (doesn't leak anywhere), and timing belt is ok and checked complete wiring installation!!!
Morning are getting colder engine runs at 1100 to warm up OK I understand that. But after running around town and engine is warm, I checked again, still at 1100 RPM. Shouldn't it be lower or is that what the batteries need?
View 1 Replies2009 Corolla LE... IDLE will fluctuate from 600 to 900 while at a stop light. It will keep rev up and then rev down to the point where it feels like the car is about to turn off and then it will rev back up again. I use Shell 89 Octane fuel. I have tried everything with the car.
I have cleaned the MAF, the Throttle Body, changed the engine air filter, using only 0W-20 Synthetic oil (change every 3.5 to 4k miles). Have added Fuel Injector cleanered to the fuel: Have tried BG44k, Red Line SL-1, Techron Concentrate. Added Liqui-Moly Ceratec to the engine oil to reduce friction.
Now Changed the Bank 1 Sensor 2 for Oxygen sensor.
Drained the Transmission fluid, dropped the pan, changed the transmission filter and refilled it with the Toyota ATF.
Changed Spark Plugs and used the Toyota OEM Iridiums.
Reset the ECU.
Tires at 35 PSI.
I noticed a slightly higher RPM at idle (1100-1200) with outside temps in the mid 50's after a 15 mile trip. I dont recall what it usually is, it just seemed to revving higher. What would say normal RPM's are on a warm engine.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1998 Chevrolet Prizm that will not fast idle when it is started in cold weather the first thing in morning. what could be the problem?
View 4 RepliesWe have owned a 95 Camry V6 for 20 years and it has always been reliable. However, several days ago, the car started to have its first engine performance issue. When we start the engine cold, there was rough idle/engine lope. If it was warmed up for about 5-10 minutes, the car was fine for the entire day. but during this rough idle, the car jerked slightly as well if i press on the gas.
Since the symptom began, I took it to local shop A and they replaced all the spark plugs, pcv valve and air filter which did not solve the rough idle/looping problem. The rough idle continued, and few days later, I was unable to start the engine though it cranks. (at least that's what I think it does). Had it towed to shop B and they've replaced oil pump, which they thought to be the problem. I took it home, and the next morning I found myself unable to start the car.
I have a 1997 Ranger with a 3.0 v6 with a super high idle.
It idles at 2500 RPM when the IAC is plugged and a steady 1100 when unplugged. I have replaced the IAC twice now (dropped the first replacement. long story) and and have also checked for vac leaks with no results.
After about 2-3 minutes of idling at 2500 on a cold start it will drop down to 1100 (same as when IAC is unplugged), but after a 10 minutes or so drive it will idle steady at 2500 with minimal if any dropping in RPMs. This is driving me crazy not only because it sounds horrible but also because of the fact it's burning through fuel like it's going out of style.
I have checked the MAF sensor and it looks brand new (not the original owner) along with the O2 sensor. I have been meaning to check the TPS voltage to see if it's working correctly but without a working multi-meter it's making it difficult to do anything.
I'm at a loss with this right now and because of all the previous repairs i have done to it and the others that still need to be done i don't have the biggest budget to fix this problem nor the money the truck is using in gas.
I recently bought a 2000 passat 2.8 v6, and ive noticed that there is a dead spot in the rpms. It also will randomly have problems idling at a certain rpm usually will fluctuate between 900 and 1100 and i have to give it gas in order for it to stop. Also when you give it gas and try to hold it at a steady rpm it keeps going up and down and wont stay at one rpm speed. I thought it would either be the tps or idle control valve but cant quite seem to find it. planning on cleaning the TB soon and replacing some hoses to see if it clears it up.
View 2 RepliesCar :1.8 20v SE 1999 passat adr engine .....
1st prob#: whilst at stand still, in neutral gently accelerating to approx 1100 rpm the engine will rev up/down all on its own, pedal remains steady
2nd prob#: car also has intermittent misfire. I checked the coilpacks using water mist & definite arc/spark
3rd prob#: car has definite judder ,felt through heel/knee kinda bouncing /vibration sensation seems to happen at 35+, light throttle, constant speed, can acc through but thinking all probs related.
This morning I was going leave, turned the key, car started up fine but had a very bad jerky/sputtery idle, like it was cutting in and out. Gas light was on and car parked uphill so first thought..hm must not be getting enough gas to start up. bf gets some gas in a jerrycan and empties it into the tank. Gas meter goes up, light goes off. Thought I was set to go so try to start er up again, nothing..car does turn over but its not getting any spark now. didn't have time to check much this morning as my bf was in a hurry for work so I just left it at his house for the day. I know coil packs and/or spark plugs could be the main thing and we're going to check them later after we're both done work..is there anything else I should check for? The engine light is on but we checked it with the code reader, its just the catalyst emissions stuff, no misfires or anything. (I drive a 2000 v6 4motion, tiptronic & car was parked there since saturday night)...
View 9 RepliesI've been having this problem since I've gotten the truck about year ago. it has very high long-term fuel trims and it seems no matter what I do I cannot get them to go down my fuel trims at idle are 39 Bank1 and 33 bank2 they go down to around 12>7 while driving what could this mean. And even weirder occasionally I get Bank 1 or bank 2 too lean codes at idle when cold starting???? 1997 Ford F150 4.6 ......
View 7 RepliesMy 1.8t is very rough at idle when cold, smooths out when over 1000 rpm and when at normal operating temperature. Code reader says 171 and misfires.
View 6 RepliesCheck out how loud my cold start idle is. Still can't figure out why you can't hear the turbo on start up though. Even revving at idle you can't hear it that much. I've seen plenty of gti's with more exhaust restriction then i have and you can hear it clearly. [URL] .....
View 8 Replies