Passat (B5) :: How To Repair Internal Headlight Adjuster
Jan 27, 2009
So i was adjusting my headlamp and it popped and now the internal cartridge part is all loose and my headlamp is pointing at the ground. Long story short I need to remove my headlamp and repair, how do you fix the internal tray? I have only REPLACED lamps before never repaired them. Have to remove the cover lense or is there some other way? If I have to remove the lense I am just going to buy a new headlamp at the junk yard.
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I have a 2009 Prius with NON HID headlights. The left one appears to not adjust properly. If I remove the bulb boot, the light bounces up and down (the part that is supposed to adjust). When I turn the adjuster, it will wiggle down then up again, like it is not engaging the screw inside... Also, when I hit a bump, the left beam bounces. The main housing is secure, just the inner (adjustable) one is not.
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I have a broken headlight adjuster assembly, it's a steel bolt with a Plastic nut on it, the Star piece behind the nut is broken. What is the source for this part ?? A Ford part number????
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I have a 2007 Passat 2.0t that unfortunately suffered a broken timing chain at 80k miles. While try to figure out what to do with it I'd like to learn a little bit about the design.
I have the timing chain cover off and have viewed the carnage. The chain broke and got jammed between the cover and the adjuster and the adjuster's pins sheered from the cam.
I can see the solenoid on the cam cover and the spring thingy extending concentrically from the cam cover to the cam adjuster.
What is the purpose of the cam adjuster? Is this changing the valve timing of the intake cams or is it simply maintaining the sync of the exhaust cam and intake cam as the chain wears?
How does the solenoid and the projecting spring from the cover influence the functioning of the adjuster?
Is the adjuster ruined on my car? Those pins are designed to shear off so maybe the adjuster is still ok?
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Passat, 2003, 5 speed, turbo, 1.8T engine, 4 door, 66K miles.
No oil on garage floor and tiny amount of oil at rear of engine, Is this urgent?
(I have had many cars with no seal or gasket issues- especially at 66K).
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When I got my 60K service last weekend, the dealer called me and explained that I had a "very small internal leak fro an emissions canister that was leaking into the intake/manifold". He said something like that. He also said that it doesn't do anything to the performance of the car, but that the leak will increase over time and will throw a MIL.
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I am currently working on my accord and well have hit a bit of trouble nothing too bad. I was just wondering how do you retract the timing belt adjuster for the '98 honda accord.
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As the tittle states, my driver side ratchet thing stopped working randomly, I've tried searching but cant find anything.
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The star wheel is not bound up. I can adjust in manually and it clicks properly when tightening. The adjuster arm is touching the right area of the star wheel. What happens is, I manually adjust the rear brakes until they are close to perfect. I back up hoping to get them to self-adjust to the proper spec, and instead of tightening, they seem to loosen a few clicks and stay that way, leaving me with "half way" rear brakes. Meaning, it would take me a few hundred feat to come to any meaningful stop when pulling the E-brake.
I can also feel the difference between the rear brakes functioning, and not, despite their secondary role, and these are not functioning properly. Right after a drive, I can jack the car up and the wheel spins freely again as if I never adjusted them in the first place. They don't unadjust themselves to the point of being completely ineffective, just to the point of not being nearly how they should. I'd expect to be able to lock them up by pulling the e-brake, and it isn't even close.
When I apply the e-brake, I can hear them "grinding", sort of touching but not really. Everything seems to be installed correctly.
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I adjusted the slop out of my steering box according to this thread a couple days ago. Long story short I got the adjuster screw tightened down TOO far, probably when setting the locknut. Now the steering is unusually heavy and the steering wheel won't return to center on its own. Spent the last hour trying to go back the other way but I can't budge the allen head adjuster screw one bit. Locknut is plenty loose for it to turn, but the allen wrench is just flexing trying to turn it and it feels if I give it any more torque it's just going to strip out anyway. Is there anything I can try here to take the pressure off it so it'll turn or is the steering box now officially FUBAR?
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So I have no high-lights on mirror controls and dash light adjuster (2 button clusters under left hand). I went to dealer, and after looking at this and also looking at other "brand new" C they tell me that it is not supposed to be lit up.
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Yesterday I got in my 2000 Rav4 and for no apparent reason the radio, digital clock, and the mirror adjuster didn't work. I checked all of the fuses and replaced one 15amp in the dash but it didn't fix the problem.
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I have a problem with the internal ventilation: the fan works but no air exits through vents whatever the position of the control button. Where can I find a schematic of the ventilation system, I do not know how to disassemble it....
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Can I bypass the internal rad atf cooling and just run the factory aux cooler? I have a internal leak in the rad. I won't tow much over 3k, van is an 88' 1ton 460 club wagon.
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Recently purchased an 2002 SC430 and have an error on Navigation System which states the following...
DVD
UNABLE TO READ DATA
CHECK IF MAP DVD IS CORRECT
Dealer thinks it an internal failure at navigation ECU. Estimate for repair $1,256.00 OUCH..
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Car: Seat Leon 2010, manual trans. On Saturday, upon starting the car after it had been driven 1 hour before, no internal electricity would work (dash board/internal lights, electronic windows, turn signal (internal and external), touch screen, electrical side view mirrors). The car itself ran and got home. I assumed it was something with a fuse, but all those under the hood aren't blown and I can' seem to find (/it doesn't seem to exist as there is just empty space where the manual says it should be) the internal fuses.
Today (monday) I looked again and made sure none of the fuses under the hood are blown and made sure (by taking out and putting right back in) all the fuses in the hood to make sure they are in all the way. Although I didn't test turning the car on since saturday, now, it wont start at all. In internal overhead lights go on when the door is open and the security code needed to start up the car work, but there is zero reaction when trying to turn the key.
What is wrong with the car? a fuse? battery? wiring? did I maybe put a fuse in the wrong spot? What should I do? try to jump start it or just get it towed to the shop (as anyways its due for a checkup....
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Looking for diagnosing an troubling engine noise. Working on a 04 Hyundai Elantra with a 2.0L engine. This is a reman engine installed by the dealer. Engine has ~ 25k on it since install. Orginal one, thrust washer cracked, and crank drove front seal out. So replaced under warranty.
Changed timing belt, tensioner, idler pulleys ~ a month ago. After driving I noticed a whining noise. Said Noise is RPM dependant and sounds like a bearing or belt whine. Loosed all the belts still there. Sounded to be in the area of the water pump.
Changed water pump ~ a week ago, noise still present. Removed all belts from crank pulley and noise still is there. Thought it might be timing belt or idler tensioner pulley even though they were new.
Today changed timing belt and idler/tensioner pulleys with a new Gates set again. Left lower and upper covers off of the timing belt. Whine is still present.
After all this I have narrowed the noise down to internal engine. So my question is this, Is there any common internal engine issues that might cause this. I know this motor does not have a balance shaft so not bearings there to whine. About the only thing left is cam/crank bearing. I might add the noise sounds to be lower in the motor, therefore, thinking bottom end.
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It is a bit 'of time i notice that the water level goes down more than usual. Lately, the level drops from max to min in a month or so and, in addition, i smell of mold inside the car.
In the past I had the same problem on another car, and it was the tap on the radiator, which leaked. In the case of Rio/Accent, the radiator is a single body, so i suspect that will be drilled. Is it possible to remove it without completely dismantle the dashboard, as happens in many modern cars?
In the past i seem to have touched the internal radiator hoses, on the passenger side, but does not know if there's enough space to pull it off.
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I just purchased a 03 2.7 v6 sante fe a few days ago. so far its been a really nice drive. However I have noticed that the internal circulation does switch to allow external air to come in without me pressing the button.
So Im just driving along and smell exhaust fumes in the car and realize that the button has switched over. Has happened a few times. Cant think of any other factors. Driving normally. I hope its not loose wiring.
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I dyno'd my car a couple of weeks ago and we found that the torque curve was a trough instead of a bump compared to stock - down about 10. HP was down maybe 5 (I don't have the printout in front of me). Magically, at 4100 rpm, it crossed over the stock curve and then was + 10-15 HP above stock, as you would expect from tune, intake, and exhaust. So it seemed that the power port vacuum valve was not activating. We did not have time to diagnose, so I went home and T-d in a vacuum gauge under the actuator.
From the info. I have been able to find, the flap in the manifold closes at 900 so that just the long runner torque pipes are open to the valves. And then it opens to the tuned closed port at 4100 rpm. On a cold start, there is a brief period when vacuum appears on the gauge, then it goes away and does not come back regardless of the engine revs. So, given the low torque curve below 4100, I am wondering if for some reason the internal flap is stuck in the open position.
What else I should be looking at? For instance, at idle, the flap should be open. Does this mean that the little white plastic lever is pulled down, or pushed up? If the valve is active, there should be vacuum under the actuator, right? Any way to tell if the solenoid is getting a signal from the ECU to activate it?
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I called a local dealer requesting an appointment to get the auto trans fluid exchanged and the internal trans filter cleaned. The service rep told me they could not clean the internal filter in the transmission and there was no removable pan on the '07 Elantra transmission.
Is there a servicable fitler on the transsmission? If there is a filter should it be cleaned?
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