I drive a 99 1.8t Passat with 90,xxx miles. Yesterday I felt the car hesitate/jerk a little when it's accelerated to 35-40 miles per hour. I've had this problem in my past and it was a cylinder misfire. I would bring it to the repair shop.
My question is: Can my car last about 1.5 weeks? My work is 20 mins away. I can definitely avoid the freeway.
Getting multiple CEL's for the catalytic converters and cylinder misfires. Looking for threads that address these particular codes ie. 0431, 0421, 0300. 0303, 0306. I have a feeling that these are being caused from a vacuum leak and/or needing a reflash for the ECU.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Pontiac Aztek with about 170,000 miles on it. About 3 weeks ago, it began having problems when I would hit the gas to speed up. It would hesitate, and then jerk forward and go. Then about 2 weeks ago, I was driving on the highway and the engine just suddenly stopped - as if I had turned off the key.
There was no warning, no sound, nothing. I kept hitting the gas the whole time and it started up again after a minute. I replaced the fuel filter and it ran well for a week. Then it happened again, but this time the engine completely turned off and I had to turn the key to restart the engine. The engine started with no problem.
I tried to drive to the mechanic, but the engine stopped & started again on the way, so I ended up having it towed. It is not driving roughly or idling roughly, it doesn't make any strange sounds and no warning lights come on. When the engine stops, all electrical components are still working (lights, radio, etc.). My mechanic appears to be stumped. What could be causing this?
I drive a 2001 Toyota Camry LE, 2.2 4 cylinder. It has about 206k miles on it… About 2 months ago I started to feel slight hesitation when I was driving…. It was so slight I wasn’t sure if it was happening or not. Recently the hesitation has become much worse… typically it will hesitate and jerk when I try to accelerate from slow speeds… this primarily happens when the car is cold. It will also jerk and hesitate when I am cruising at a fixed speed. If I step on the gas, the jerking stops.
Here are known issues and recent work I have had done… in November I replaced my complete exhaust system myself, including the downstream oxygen sensor. The cat is now bad and it will rattle. I had a mechanic replace my water pump, timing belt and all pulleys and tensioners associated with it about 2 weeks ago. The hesitation predated this problem.
About 5 years ago I replaced my own plugs and wires… when I did this; I noticed oil on one plug. This was for the cylinder closest to the driver’s side. I never noticed any issues with the performance of my car related to the oil, and I do not burn through much… perhaps a quart every 2 months. About a week ago I replaced my plugs and noticed the oil again. I do not know if this relates to my hesitation problem or not. I also filled my tank and used a container of injector cleaner, thinking perhaps a clogged injector was causing the problem.
The problem still exists.
Now I am thinking it might be one of two problems… either a defective ignition coil or a bad throttle position sensor. Yesterday I borrowed a code reader… it told me I had “long fuel trim in bank 1”.
Okay, the code I am getting is a "Misfire on Cylinder 3" code. The car hesitates in REVERSE and DRIVE only, not in neutral.
This is what I have already done: checked all wiring (fixed a bare wire), did an ignition coil swap (#3 to #2) to see if it was actually the coil (no change), replaced all the spark plugs (no change), replaced the MAF sensor (no change).
A shop I tok it to said it was the ignition coil, and that all the spark plugs needed to be replaced. They did not know that I already replaced all the plugs and, having already done the swap with another coil (and getting no change), I find it hard to believe anything they say.
I am leaning toward an O2 sensor issue or a fuel filter issue (but these cars are supposed to have lifetime fuel filters and that is not a job I ant to do if I don't have to).
I was also told that the "green thing" in this photo might be bad. What that is and/or why it would be bad. it does move a little, but so do all the others.
How the cylinders are numbered as your facing the car from the front left to right (forgot the order) so I can replace coil packs on cyl 5&6 (238 misfires in 2min is not good).
View 4 Replies2005 Prius 195k miles, oil changes every 5k +/- 500 (usually minus), new plugs at about 187k, TSBs for coolant loop done, coolant valve for ICE replaced on my dime, replaced aux battery in 2010. Transaxle fluid changed at 100k and 190k due to noise, but that is another post.
I mostly do my own work because, in general, I find dealerships to charge too much (like one hour to change the aux battery) or not competent (like changing the traction battery under warranty but leaving the seat belt behind the panel or not resetting the maintenance light during 5k Toyota covered maintenance)
I have a 2002 Elantra that has been in shop 3xs for same thing. The car says it is missfiring on 1 and I have changed wires, coil pack and spark plugs with no success.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 f-150 5.4 Trition v8 and recently i had misfires on 5 and 6 come up. After I changed out the coils and injectors on all the cylinders the misfire would still come up.
View 4 RepliesMy Mk4 R32 has been in the shop for a week now. My number 2 cylinder began sporadically misfiring on the highway and then once I turned the engine off and then back on it would run fine until I got back on the highway and began to accelerate up to about 60.
Took it in and the mechanics couldn't replicate the code. Got a vacuum tube replaced and and it ran fine until I got to the highway. Same issue.
At this point the fuel injector has been replaced and its still throwing the code.
My accent is misfiring at startup, and randomly at stoplights. Pulling the code tells me it's the #2 cylinder. I have no trouble at highway speeds, the car really drives fine outside of stoplights and startups. The idle hovers around 900 rpm. Sometimes, once I'm on the road and driving, the CEL will go away altogether.
My main question is, is there any way to be certain that it's the 2/3 coil pack? I don't want to spend on parts that won't fix anything.
I have a 2000 lc 1.5l ... I just rebuilt the motor machine shop work and all it Will start and run for 3 seconds and then die. If I hold the gas pedal it will run but sound rough and as soon as you let go it dies I have been able to get codes multiple misfires, misfire cylinder 1, misfire cylinder 2, and misfire cylinder 4 I have put brand new plugs (copper core ngk), wires coils, crank sensor, cam sensor, iac, tps, maf and the injectors all have new orings it also has ntk o2 sensors that might have 1000 miles on them...
View 1 RepliesThe car crank up normally, but when idling it misfires on #3 cylinder. When start to drive it will drive at 45 mph at full revolution but when I stop at a light the engine begins to vibrate and shakes the entire car. When moving off again, it continues to vibrate and hesitate and will not get up back in speed 25-30 mlp and now start to backfire in to the manifold. While stepping on the gas it also makes a popping sound. If I try to get the speed up any higher it will violently makes a popping sound and backfiring constantly into the manifold and struggles to go. The engine is also getting very hot although the engine gage said it normal and not overheating. If the car is sitting in a grassy area while idling it will completely burn dry the grass underneath.
View 12 RepliesI have an intermittent start-up problem with my 2001 BMW Z-3, 3.0: cylinder 1 misfires on start-up for a few seconds or up to a few minutes under certain conditions. The misfire conditions are consistent:A)OBDII code P0313 (misfire detected with low fuel) or code PO1343 (cylinder 1 misfire with fuel cutoff). Both OBDII codes equate to BMW fault code 238.B)after winter storage it misfires on start–up for 5-10 minutes (I’ve always added a fuel stabilizer before winter storage);C)after a spike in humidity it misfires on start-up for a few seconds or up to a minute after a rain storm or;D)If I don’t run the car for a 3-5 days (always stored in a garage) it misfires for a few seconds (just long enough to turn on the “check engine” light).
Otherwise, the car runs flawlessly –plenty of power – smooth as silk - no hesitation, but with the bloody check engine light on 50% of the time.In lieu of black tape over the check engine indicator, I’ve taken the car alternately to both Minneapolis BMW dealers over the years (once if not twice a year), but the intermittent nature of the misfire and the fact that I store the car 5 months the a year has made it difficult to pin down the exact “root cause” of the problem. The dealership mechanics have swapped and/or replaced the cylinder 1 fuel injector, spark plug, cylinder coil and cable, kept it overnight and for days. The last dealership diagnosis was a defective cylinder 1 exhaust valve that could only be fixed with valve job! Yes, that’s right, pull the head and do a complete valve job - on all six cylinders. What am I missing here? What about the infamous BMW VANOS valve control system?
Besides being spark plugs and wires and/or a bad coil pack, what other things could make it so i have misfires on cylinders 4 and 6? going to replace the plugs and wires later today when they get to my house but i just want to know what other things i could be so I can evaluate the potential repair cost and should the wires for cylinders 4,5, and 6 be under or over the intake manifold? I bought my truck used and they are currently under the manifold i think it would make more sense to have them over personally.
I have a 1997 Ranger 4WD with the 6 cylinder 4.0L engine. I can't remember the codes that it tripped at the moment but i think one might have been the 304 code not sure though.
I tripped the 300,304, and 306 code but don't know about any others i remembered what codes i tripped the other day when i had it scanned
I have an 05 Lariat with 145k miles on it. About a month ago I had a misfire code on one cylinder. Since then it's gone from once every couple of days, various cylinders. To now every day. I've had to continue driving it but the last few days it's gotten bad and I hope I didn't do any more damage(cats) but I didn't have a whole lot of choice. I've read every thread I can find and haven't found an exact match. It seems to be worse first thing in the morning, it will be down on power for a few seconds then clear up. It may not return for another 10 or 15 minutes and then cough a little and clear up.
Sometimes it will start at the beginning of a hill and not clear up until I'm back on flat, sometimes it will lose power at the top. There is zero predictability to it. I have had codes on almost every cylinder, but no single one has dominated the problem. Twice when it has been real bad I have also gotten a lean code 0174. It had new Motorcraft plugs 25000 miles ago and has run fine until recently. The ticking isn't too bad but I think I'm going to try thicker oil for the summer. It's been a while since I did the fuel filter and since it probably isn't a bad idea I'm going to do that today.
I have an 02 Civic EX. Engine light has been on for over a year, runs just fine. Reading misfires on 3 cyl, and cat code. I have since: changed all plugs and coils, changed both front and rear o2 sensors....switched coils around to see if code misfires changed (yes).
I see this is a common problem but no one has a solution..? I'd rather NOT change the cat converter and pay for that only to find out the light stays on. Need to smog so I can sell!
I just bought a used 2001 Subaru Outback L.L.Bean, and the check-engine light is on due to misfiring in cylinders 1, 3, and 5 (right side only). I thought I was getting a pretty good deal even given the CEL risk, but the car is at the mechanic now and he is stumped and telling me I have to take it to a dealer service center.
This is a 6 cylinder with a timing chain. Plugs were replaced and computer reset and the light came right back on. There are no spark plug wires, and I read that the coil packs rarely fail. The engine runs smoothly and seems to have power, but since I just bought the car used so I'm not sure how much power is normal. It has 122k miles.
What could be causing misfires on one side of the engine only?
I have 11 tiguan 2.0T. When I start it up is runs rough below 1200 rpm. The check engine light starts flashing. The codes are all 4 cylinders for random cylinder misfire. When I go drive it around the roughness calms down but doesn't go away and the idle will start jumping up and down. It goes to 1500 back to 800. Then 1700 back to 800. It had even hit 2400 once. I have changed the pcv about 2 months ago. I checked it and it looks fine. One place said maf. I cleaned it and no change. Running out of options.
View 2 Replies I recently bought my 2010 gti used with 62k miles on it about 3weeks ago. The car had an carbonio intake stage 1 and a stage 1 tune from Apr when I had bought it. On the test drive and for the first two weeks I had it I did not have any problems. A few days ago on a cold start my car threw an MIL and it was flashing. When I got to school I plugged it into the obd2 scanner. Code read P0303: misfire cylinder 3 detected.
My teacher and I went over possibilities of the misfire. Coil pack, plugs , injector, valve float( even tho this should not occur at 1300rpm cold start) we also thought that maybe because the car is direct injection the valve was not closing all the way due to carbon build up on the top of my valves which in this case I'm glad I don't have an interference head. I moved around the coil packs. What is the cause of this? I'm only misfiring at start and when the engine isn't warms up to operating temp.
I've got a 2009 Tiguan with 65k miles on it. A few weeks ago I noticed some issues with running rough during a cold start. I only noticed because the engine would vibrate considerably more than usually for the first few minutes of operation, and would idle at around 1050-1100rpm instead of the usual 750rpm. After warm up, things were fine. Suddenly the issue got bad real fast - wife was out and the MIL light came on, EPC light came on, and the car was running extremely rough. We managed to drive it home (2 miles) doing under 20 the whole time on side streets. Once I hooked it up to my OBD reader, I was seeing cylinder misfire codes on all four cylinders.. P0300, P0301..P0304, all five codes simultaneously.
Since the car was due for an oil change and hit 65k miles recently, I decided to throw new plugs in there to see if that would work. It did, at first.. A day or two it ran completely fine, no rough starts, no misfires, I thought I had solved the problem. The old plugs had some deposits on them and were original, so I thought I was in the clear. Two days later, same thing happened again.. EPC light, barely running and misfires on all four cylinders..
I read up some online and decided to order new ignition coils. Took a few days, but I got four new coils and threw them in. Again, problem solved it seemed. No more EPC light, misfire codes didn't come back and no more rough starts. I drove a good 40 miles with no problems at various speeds, but started noticing some misfires during acceleration (slightly rough acceleration, almost feels like a back and forth rocking motion, very slight). Sure enough, after a cold start I'm seeing the engine run a bit rough again with misfires. This time, only P0304 (misfire on cylinder 4) is thrown, and it only shows up as a "pending code" (engine light flashes for a few moments during start, but does not stay on).
I checked my connections, swapped the plugs and coils in what I thought were cylinders 3 and 4 (closer to the driver side), nothing. I swapped what I think are cylinder 1 and 2 (passenger side) just to be sure, but still nothing. At this point I'm pretty lost. I know enough to be dangerous with a carbureted engine, but am lacking in knowledge when it comes to a fuel injected turbo charged VW engine. It seems to be cylinder 4 misfiring consistently at this point according to the OBD reader.
Also of note.. I had some misfire problems last year, and had my intake manifold replaced as part of a recall (also had carbon deposits removed at the same time). Can a carbon build up occur this fast? Can it be the injectors?