I have a 02 B5.5 Passat w/Climatronic and my AC/heater does not work. What can I do to fix it because I really need the heater during winter time the only thing that heats me up is the seat warmer.
View 5 Replies1988 Celica GT Convertible Heater does not work.
AC works. Fan works.
Heater has an automatic control system.
When I move the control from cold to hot the cable to the heater control valve doesn't move.
Could this be a bad heater circuit breaker? I believe this circuit breaker is on the passenger side right side panel.
I've got a 2006 Avalon coming up to 30 K, bought it last summer. Starting to use the heater now, and it doesn't seem to work well. Have to turn it to 80 to get heat, not cold air, etc...
View 5 Replies1995 Isuzu Rodeo.
My heater blower does not work. I pulled the connector to the resister behind the glove box and couldn't find any current going to it. I had the key on. I checked and also replaced the blower fuse in the box under the hood (just in case) and checked all the fuses in the fuse box by the driver's door.
Is there somewhere else I should check to see why I don't have any power going to the resister?
I have a 2001 JGC Limited with the 4.7 v8 quadra drive 4x4. Since it got cold out, my blower motor for heat will not come on until the vehicle has been running for a while. Sometimes as long as 30 minutes. Eventually it does come on and seems to work OK. It works the same way if its on auto or on manual- high or low speed settings.
View 1 RepliesThe heater fan in the van will only work on full blast and the rear wiper/ ac button lights flash which I had another 98 caravan that I was driving that had the same issue with the flashing lights. What is that all about?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, My AC unit works great. With the heater, it will work for 2-3 minutes, at which point it starts to blow cool air. I can leave it running, but it never gets warm again, if I turn the fan off for 3-5 minutes, when I turn it back on, I get a good amount of heat that goes for about 2-3 minutes before blowing cold air again.
View 1 RepliesHonda Accord Special Edition - 72,000 mi.,4 cyl. auto - When I turn the control knob on to use fan or is it called the blower for A/C or heater nothing comes on. When I turn the control knob on with the cold motor not running and A/C button engaged (green light on) I hear the two fans under the hood come on for about 10 seconds and then shut off. Not sure if that is normal or it indicates something. I checked some of the fuses under the hood and under the dash. Could not find any that were bad.
View 5 RepliesI just replaced my evap box along with most everything connected to it (had some bad servos and replaced other stuff for good measure). AC works great now, but the heater still doesn't work. I've had this car 4 years and the heater has never worked. When I took the box apart, the doors were naked (no foam). Heater core looked ok, but thought it would be stupid not to replace it while I was there.
So, I was hoping this may cure my heater issue, but was really only looking to get the AC going. So, the car had been running for 30-45 minutes and while the heater was on, I went to check the heater core hoses, the pass side hose was hot, the driver's side wasn't. Driver's side goes to axillary pump and bottom of coolant reservoir. Not too long ago, I replaced the mechanical pump and t-stat along with other stuff (crack pipe, etc.). Thought I'd get everything while I had the system drained. Didn't work then, either.
My parents have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix. The blower that controls the a/c and the heater does not work consistently. It just works when "the spirit moves it." I took it to a mechanic today. They didn't even look at the car. They just went by my description of the "symptoms" of the car. According to the place I went, it needs the whole nine yards (naturally). How could they tell what was wrong without examining the car?!
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 Sonata and just a few weeks ago the AC/Heater Blower would only work on full blast. You actually had to have the control set a little before the full setting to get it to come on. Both the heat and the AC worked. Now, nothing is coming out on any speed setting. I've replaced the blower resistor and checked the fuses/relay and they seem fine.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 Chevy Silverado, and recently it has been running hotter than usual (I dont know the exact numbers, but it usually runs at the halfway mark, and is now at the 3/4 mark) and the heater doesn't work... as long as I'm going UNDER about 60 mph. When I get on the freeway, the water temp goes back down to the 1/2 mark, and the heater comes on! Occasionally when I'm going around 30 or even stopped the water temp gets even hotter, and it tells me that the engine coolant is hot. I've tried adding more coolant... maybe I have a leak? I also know that I need new AC/Serpentine belts, could it have something to do w that?
View 7 RepliesOkay, so the car in question is a 2003 Escort ZX2 with roughly 110k on the clock. It's run like a champ up until now. My wife was driving it home from work the other day and said that there was a burning smell coming through the vents, then the coolant temp gauge on the dash went all the way to hot and stayed there, and the heat simultaneously stopped working.
She got it home and I quickly found out that the car IS NOT overheating. Something screwy is going on with the gauge and it will sit at cold for 10 minutes, then go all the way to hot, then sit in the middle, and it's just all over the place. However, the engine fan works fine and comes on at the appropriate time, the engine does not overheat at all, and other than the gauge acting weird and the heat not working, the car runs as it always has.
So, just a as a measure of preventative maintenance I replaced the thermostat, thermostat housing, and both clip-in coolant temp sensors on the thermostat housing. This seems to have fixed nothing, but oh well.
Next, I let the car heat up and checked the two hoses going to the heater core in the firewall. One hose is just slightly warm (even at full operating temperature) and the other is completely cold.
When you get in the car and attempt to turn the heat on, all the blower motor speeds work. When you turn the dial from cold to hot you can see under the dash that the cable that opens the blend doors is working fine as well. However, no heat at all, it's just cold air that comes from the vents even on the hottest setting.
The heater core isn't leaking at all, this has been confirmed.
So, I'm unsure where to go from here. The wacky coolant temp gauge seems like maybe it's the actual gauge itself that's gone south (in which case I'd need a new gauge cluster I suspect). The heat though perplexes me. Sure, the heater core could be plugged but that seems rather unlikely considering the coolant has always been regularly flushed and when you open up the radiator there's no gunk or rust or anything in the system at all.
I am not sure if they are related or if they happened at the same time but my wife said her heater/ac fan wasn't working. So I figured it was a fuse, but after visually checking all the fuses and I mean all, none appear to be blown. After checking all the fuses I turned the car on, only to find out I put a couple fuses in the wrong locations and re-installed according to the diagram on the back of the cover. Turned car back on and heater fan as expected did not turn on. Then I noticed the Trac light on, not blinking or beeping just "on". After looking on the forums and web this means that it is turned off. If it is just off how do you turn it back on?
View 3 RepliesWon't switch between functions (heat, vent, etc.) ...
View 1 Replies2000 Blazer LS 4X4. 186k miles. It would seem that my heater control will only work for defrost and face-vent operation. (Just happened yesterday) When I move the controller from the off position to defrost, I can hear the system moving the flaps into position. But it no longer moves for defrost/floor or just floor control. Would changing the heater control solve this problem, or could it be a bad vacuum line?
View 12 RepliesIt takes a LONG time for my heater to warm up... to be expected of an old car. However, once my heater is warmed up enough, it blows cold air when I'm idling at a light or anything. Once I get back up to 35 MPH it goes right back up to its temperature. Then drops again when I stop.
View 3 RepliesThis morning on my way to work in my 2012 F-250 I turned the heater on, controlling the temp from the temperature control. When the truck got up to temperature the heater fan would not come on accordingly to bring the inside of the truck up to the temperature that I had selected on the controls, so I tried operate the fan manually and it still didn't turn on. Once at work I didn't have really have time to look at anything with it, I did however shut the truck off and start it again and still nothing. Then after I got off work, driving home still nothing until I was about half way home then all of the sudden it started working again. I'd sure hate to have this happen again later this winter when the temperature gets below zero outside.
View 3 RepliesI have a 98 chevy astro thats been acting up alot these days! just a few eeks ago while checking tranny fluid it kinda smelt burnt. but topped it up anyway. mind you alot else is going on too. in the last year the horn has stopped working, the wipers work when they want to. the stereo stopped working. there was this wierd clicking noise that drained my battery, it was coming from this little black square looking thing under the dash on the drivers side, I removed it and it never happened agian. still haven't replaced it yet seeming as it ran fine without it. it wouldn't start when it was raining so considering the other electrical problems I was having I had a wire kit done on it and it didn't work. it turned out to be a cracked coil, which was replaced. just this last week the heater stopped working and now it started doing this this morning.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Windstar Van with 155,000 miles on it. A problem has developed with the electrical system/components. The van will start and run fine. With the engine running, there is no instrumentation, power windows do not work, wind shield wipers do not work, radio does not work, heater blower motor does not work. After the engine has been shut off, the radio will work, windows will work, door locks until such time as you open the door, then all quits. With the key in accessory, the windows work, door locks work, radio works, etc. The neutral module was replaced (the old one, none of the contacts appeared to be burnt). Ford dealer spent an hour trouble shooting - checked body modules (2) - found nothing.
View 4 RepliesIt's getting cold here in New England so my heater has decided to act up. I only get lukewarm air from the heater. The engine warms up in the same time it always has and the coolant temp gauge stays right in the middle at 12 o'clock. No overheating. So I think the thermostat and water pump are OK. I tried turning the heater temperature control from low to high and I can hear the blend door open and close. So at least the blend door motor isn't dead.
There's a definite difference in temperature between the inlet and outlet hoses to the heater core (based on how long I can hold my fingers on the metal hose clamps for the two hoses). I disconnected the two hoses and flushed the heater core. I mixed up some Prestone Radiator Flush with boiling water, poured it in, and let it sit for 40 minutes. Some particulate crud came out but not a lot. Rinsed and repeated in backflush direction. Somewhat more crud but still not a lot. I reconnected the hoses and not much has changed--still just lukewarm air.
To bleed the system I elevated the plastic coolant tank and pulled back the return hose to open the bleed hole in the hose by the firewall.
How much of a temperature difference should I expect between the heater inlet and outlet hoses? Do I need to improve my bleed procedure? Is there a coolant control valve in this system or does the coolant flow at max volume all the time?
BTW, I ended up adding about 44 ozs of water and G12 to what was already in the system. There must have been some air in the system because the coolant level was just a touch below the MIN line at the beginning. I've also noticed when it's rainy or cool/humid there's some vapor coming from the radiator (not heater) area. I'm wondering if I have a slow radiator leak and that's allowed some water/G12 to escape. But even after adding the 44 ozs I still don't get hot air from the system.