my wife has a 03 wagon 1.8t with a manual, lately she and i have been having problems getting car into second under normal acceleration from a stop.
Clutch is good no slippage problems.
I have what feels like a rotational vibration (front to back) during mid to hard acceleration in 5th gear (60-65+mph) and its driving me crazy trying to figure this out. I can slightly feel it under hard acceleration in 3rd gear as well.
I have tried two different sets of wheels (both after market and stock) with no luck. I am starting to think it is in the motor and not the suspension... Or could it be the trans? What can I check/inspect to get how to tackle this?
Info on the car: 2003 Wagon 1.8T 5sp. 40k miles
I got new brakes pu ton lats month (semi-metalic). Any way I was driving to work and it was raining , roads were wet and my car was shifting weird after coming to a complete stop. once i went it would shift into first gear hard. I took it to a mechanic but he couldn't find a problem.
Then it was fine, no problem but today it was raining an dmy car did the same thing. Anytime I went when a light turned green or his the gas after being at a stop sign. the car would stutter as it shifted into first gear. like it would go , then act like it was stuck and then shift
It has only happened twice and its both been raining. Also my tires are really really bad.
Could it be the tires aren't gripping the road and that's why my cars shifting funny, like the tires aren't caught up?
What is probably causing this white smoke on my 2012 camry se v6 with 105190km? Randomly, the camry would emit a screen of white smoke after stopping at a stop light with just normal acceleration (this is a LOT of smoke, something to be embarrassed about for a 2012).
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I notice that under normal acceleration, my cars transmission shifts very jerky. I understand this can happen if your driving stick but I have a TIP. Is there anyway smooth or eliminate the jerks?
View 2 Replies2005 f350srw 6.0 ps. If I stomp it for less than about 5 seconds no issues. Passing a car on a 2 lane or pulling a grade with the 5'r (longer sustained high boost over about 5 seconds) it will pull fine until normal driving recurs. Once normal driving recurs, converter locked 5th gear zero boost on accell. If I mash it to down shift it will stumble stumble stumble black smoke then finally boost fine. Let off same no boost issue. It seems to "reset" after about 4 miles/ 4 minutes. Sct canned tunes/ custom tunes don't make a diff. My dd is idp unlimited tow and 40 ficm tune. I cleaned ebp tube and sensor no change. Haven't tested sensor. I'm wondering if it's low fuel pressure related. Fixing to sell truck and want to fix this. Been going on for a year or so. Hasn't always been this way.
View 5 Replies01' Screw 5.4 4wd. Went camping this past weekend and it was the first outing for this truck our TT weighs 6k. When accelerating from a dead stop going straight I'm getting a rumble strip like vibration that last a second. If I take off very easy it doesn't do it. I've seen similar post but no definitive solutions. This truck has less then a 100k on it and so far I've changed the trans filter/fluid rear end oil with modifier and new spark plugs.
Once I'm rolling and hammer down it won't do it. It's more of a annoyance then anything.
Lately I've been having trouble with my car in third gear under hard acceleration while in tip mode with DSG. I have been Stage 2 since April and it hasn't really been an issue until recently.
The best way I can describe it is when you get into 3rd with your foot on the gas the car stops accelerating and kind of gets stuck. I have to completely let off the gas and before it "wakes up" again. I feel like it's been getting worse in worse, but it only ever happens when I try to push it hard.
No problems in auto mode or sport, it's just a major let down. Could the fuel pump be the culprit? It just feels like the car doesn't want to move for a second or 2, like no response from the gas pedal.
Wonder if its dry driveshaft slip splines? Only happens when leaving a dead stop under hard acceleration. Hard to describe sound, but seems to be coming from behind me, almost sounds like 2 broken pieces of steel snapping past each other. frame is o.k., leaf springs are o.k. , doesn't do it when shifting between gears or if I gently take off from a stop. I don't think there's a grease fitting for the driveshaft where the splines are (where the 2 piece shaft takes up slack for being loaded or unloaded) may have to take that apart once the weather breaks and see what i find. my 1st ranger never had this issue after 200K miles. this truck is now at 145K but its almost 20 years old. I've read somewhere before about pulling the shaft apart & greasing the splines up. does this sound like a possibility for whats happening? not sure what else it could be.
View 3 RepliesI noticed twice yesterday when I was accelerating from an intersection, going into 2nd gear (or 3rd depending on how short 1st is) it feels like it slips into neutral and I lose acceleration. If I take my foot off the gas and coast for a moment then re-apply acceleration, it goes on as normal without any problems.
66k miles... Owned it for 2 years and have had no other issues and have only taken it in for oil changes.
Am I correct in assuming the ATF is supposed to be good for the life of the vehicle?
Having problems where sometimes the car won't go into gear, other times it's fine? The problem started after some hard acceleration in 3rd, there was what felt like a momentary loss in power. I dipped the clutch as I thought a boost pipe had popped off, all was fine (still seeing boost when revved). After this it got progressively harder to get gears, finally resulting in not being able to get into gear at all.
I found I could get it into 1st with the engine off and could go up gears normally, but couldn't change down without stopping and turning the engine off. The clutch is working fine, the biting point is normal. The problem seams to come and go randomly, it will work fine for a while and then start playing up again. When working the gearbox feels normal, there is no grinding or wining noises. I can move between gears normally and do clutch less gear changes.
There is now a vibration which can be felt at 1000rpm when stationary. It feels like it coming from the engine/gearbox and seems like something is out of balance as it shakes the whole car. The car is on 91k, supercharged running 470hp & 370lb/ft (at flywheel) and is fitted with a Spec stage 3+ clutch and solid flywheel.
I am having some trouble with my 02 Buick recently. The acceleration from a stop is very sluggish and gear changes come slowly, although they still seem to shift smoothly. The first thing I did was check the fluid levels and I can find nothing wrong there. The trans fluid was last changed 3 years ago, but the level, color, and smell are all normal so surely that couldn't be the culprit ?Unfortunately, that about exhausts my diagnostic skill.
View 8 RepliesI have a '91 Camry that's my daily 50 mile round trip commute car. It runs well and still has lots of pep at 156,000. There are oil and tranny leaks (tranny leaks around the pan seal) but I check the levels and keep everything topped off. Tranny fluid and filter were changed about 20K miles ago. I am the original owner. Shifting is OK unless I accelerate hard, then it "bumps" into gear. On hard acceleration it is a pretty good bump but if I back off the gas it shifts much better. There are no other symptoms, at lower speeds it shifts fine unless the A/C is on, then I get bumps above the 1-2 shift. What the problem is?
View 3 RepliesSo today I had a scenario where I had to pull out from a blind corner onto busy street. By the time I pulled out I realized an SUV was coming down the street fairly quickly. My immediate instinct knowing I have 360hp on tap was to put the hammer down.
I basically planted my right foot to the floor and held it there. The truck was already rolling out of the lot and turning into the street at approximately 5-7 mph. This resulted in the truck shifting hard from rolling in 2nd gear, down to 1st. I never drive this way so what I'm asking next is if this is normal or not. As I held my foot to the floor through 2nd & 3rd gears the truck seemed to blip the throttle at 4k then up-shifted from 1st to 2nd gear.
I have a stock Ford Raptor exhaust on my truck with the resonator deleted and when the truck blipped the throttle just prior to the up shift, the exhaust "popped" like a race car with an open exhaust downshifting from speed into an apex. Yes it sounded cool, but it was obviously cutting fuel or throttle for some reason.
So here is the weird part, out of curiosity I tried a few different scenarios just to see if something was wrong with my truck. *Note if I just mash the gas from a dead stop there is no fuel cut going from 1st - 2nd gears at WOT. The fuel cut only happens when I'm leaving out and getting on the gas from a turn.
If I turn off the traction control or advance trac and stability program then there is no fuel cut or 4k rpm, the truck just runs out to the 5600 or so redline seamlessly. Im just wondering if the traction control or torque management is really that sensitive or aggressive? I mean it was 70 degrees out and the road dry, plus I was already at a speed 45-50?? mph where a loss of traction would not be an issue so what gives?
This truck has been giving me tranny problems for a while now. About a year ago, stopped in traffic in neutral, I attempted to shift into 1st but it wouldn't go into gear, not reverse, not any gear. Eventually after a minute or so of trying it reluctantly went into 1st. About 6 months ago I started the truck after being parked and again it wouldn't get into gear. Shut it off, tried to get it into gear, nothing. Checked the hydraulic fluid reservoir for the clutch and it looked a little low so added a bit and after that it shifted into gear (maybe coincidentally). Now about a month ago, it again wouldn't shift into gear after being started. I checked the reservoir again, looked fine this time. Shut the car off, attempted to shift and this time shifted with ease
Something that I've noticed in the past year is that sometimes now when I shut the engine off it doesn't run down smoothly; kind of slows then clunks to a stop. Didn't used to do that.
Well, I think my clutch is falling apart. I am hearing an intermittent nasty noise coming from somewhere in the bell housing/oil pan area. It comes and goes, but seems to be more frequent lately. It sounds like a dryer that somebody threw a pair of sneakers and some rocks in; with a metallic clunking noise of something being "churned" around. As I said, sounds almost exactly like the dryer thing.
The clutch does not seem to be slipping, but I do occasionally have difficulty getting it into gear at a stop. I'm guessing that the clutch disc has thrown a hub spring, and its rattling around in the bell housing. Assuming I need a clutch; which I think I do, I need selecting one. I have no history on the clutch or flywheel, so I will assume that I need a new flywheel to match whatever clutch I get.
I can't get a stock replacement, due to the injectors/chip/etc.... I would estimate I am making about 350hp/700ft-lbs. I don't tow currently, but I may pull a car trailer in the future. I DO haul heavy loads in the bed (4,000lbs) on a regular basis. I also drive/shift aggressively, as well as shifting quickly. While I spend a decent amount of time on the highway, I also do a lot of stop and go stuck in traffic driving; so smooth engagement is important. So, no ceramic/ceramic in/out type clutches.
I do NOT want a South Bend. I don't want a super soft pedal. Also, the whole pedal-sticking-to-the-floor thing they mention is unacceptable. Personally, I think they should be ashamed of themselves for putting out a product with such an obvious unsafe design/engineering flaw, and then try to explain it away as "normal". Nope. They need to go back to the drawing board and fix that. As I said, it constitutes a serious safety hazard.
Recent axle replacement and now I've noticed that there is some annoying vibration under hard acceleration and at speeds around 65+.
I just read that cheap replacement axles suck. However, I also read that the OEM are hollow and the cheapos are solid. Could only replacing one side cause there to be some sort of imbalance and cause the vibration?
I bought a B5.5 wagon with 145kmi on it last week. It's a 1.8t with a tiptronic transmission.
Last night, when I stepped on the accelerator for the first time when it downshifted I got a nasty vibration until I let off. When just cruising or accelerating at a normal speed there is no vibration at all. It doesn't matter if you're doing 20 mph or 60mph, it's the same vibration when you accelerate hard.
I'm thinking maybe a motor mount or something?
My 2001.5 1.8T wagon w/ tip (stock engine, no mods) has always had an amazingly long "dead time" when I gas it hard from a standing stop. It's less noticeable when I'm in manual mode, but is downright scary in automatic mode in that I wonder if the car is ever gonna take off. When it does take off, it accelerates just fine and goes through the gears without a problem.
If I'm in automatic mode, no significant hesitation occurs if I first give it a little gas just to get going. The situation arises only when starting from a dead stop. I've read elsewhere (not here) that this model does hesitate on initial acceleration, but it seems more pronounced than in other b5's I've had as dealer loaners. Any way to cut down on or eliminate this?
I have a 99 VW Passat with 2.8 V6, FWD, Automatic tranny and it currently has 94.5K miles. Under semi hard or hard acceleration from either a rolling or standing start, the car vibrates something terrible. Steering wheel has bad vibration and the whole car shakes. If you back off and accelerate very slowly its pretty smoother.
I have had the tires balanced 3 time but the last 2 times the dealer and Sears didn't even move the weights. When cruising at amy steady speed on the highway there is no vibration whatsoever. So I don't think tire balance is the problem. The dealer then put in two brand new half shafts but its no better. I asked them to check the motor mounts but they said they are fine.
Recently purchased a flooded 2013 VW Passat TDI and am a newbie. Flushed trans and did a fluid change. Transmission slips on hard acceleration in 2nd and 4th gears and under minimal pull in 6th gear. I then took it to dealership and they told me there was an active code for intermittent low pressure and told me I needed a new mechatronic and that fluid was still somewhat milky. After telling them it was a flood vehicle they told me I needed a new transmission.
Brought it home and drained fluid again and replaced the K-2 solenoid, refilled fluid and test drove. Still slipping the same. Pulled trans today to look at K-2 clutch pack and found what appears to be three pieces of rubber seal (approx 1/64 thick, 1/16 wide, and when putting pieces together appears to be 1 1/2 inside dia. I think one small piece is still missing. Arrived at the 1 1/2" ID by the curvature of remaining pieces) inside the inner hub. I have inspected most of the pieces and cannot come up with where these have come from. I believe they have to be from somewhere that seals up the K-2 piston.