Passat (B5) :: Got The Stop Check Coolant Level Then Overheat
Oct 9, 2011
When I got the STOP check coolant level message on my 2002 Passat glx. I pulled over as soon as I could and then I began to over heat. The coolant level was good, actually it was a little high. The check engine light also was blinking. I replaced my water pump about 70K miles ago.
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I've got some problems going on with my 2001 VR6 Jetta. I was driving home from my way to work this evening and all of a sudden the indicator light came on and told me to stop and check the coolant level. Within about three minutes the car was already up to about 200. I pulled over to a gas station and the coolant reservoir was completely empty. So I began to pour coolant in the reservoir and fill it up I notice I was pouring a lot of coolant so I went to the hood looked on the driver side below the bumper and water/cool was pouring out everywhere. I inspected as many radiator hoses as I could and did not find any cracks. The water seem to be pouring out from around the thermostat housing. My question would be since I don't know whole lot about cars would they crack thermostat housing because you need to have this problem?
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When I start up the car in the morning, the infamous "STOP!! CHECK COOLANT LEVEL" warning will come on, and then shortly thereafter it will go away. I topped off the coolant level (with the pink stuff of course) and yet this light will come on occasionally. It mostly comes on first thing in the morning when the car is started up and cold, and *sometimes* come on when the car is warm. Fluid level is all topped off. What gives?
I was reading that there is a fluid level sensor that sometimes goes bad? could this be it? I changed the coolant temp sensor back in the summer of this year. (not sure if that has anything to do with it?) Not sure if I have a leak, cause I look under the car in the morning and I have no spots of coolant anywhere.
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The "stop!" check level! alarm sounded as I was parked last evening...
Looked under car and a gigantic pool of coolant flooded under my car.
Where to look under the hood for loose or broken clamps or hoses that may be the culprit. Which hoses (color?) are the ones to check?
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It's been pretty cold the last few days and tonight when I was coming home the car told me to stop and check the coolant.. and servicve manual....what does this mean...I have read to check the coolant level (pink G12 stuff)...the resevoir is full....could something be frozen??
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About a month ago, I started my car and the computer started beeping saying STOP! check coolant...so i did....it was on empty...this was rather weird to me because i remember seeing it on normal like a week ago....so i added the coolant to the max level in the tank.....Two weeks later it was on the MIN level line....so i added some again....then a week later it decreased a little again.... it would seem that its a leak....however i do not see any wet spots under the car...it seems that the coolant disappears due to driving the car... Could it be the coolant? Also, how does G12 coolant differ from regular coolants sold in auto stores?
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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For the last several days, most of the times I've started my car I've had the Red "Check Coolant Level" message on the MFD - accompanied by a tone / chime.
The first time it happened, I was a tad below Min, so I added a 'glug' of G13 to push it back up into the normal range. Everytime I've checked it since, the level is in the normal range.
So how is the level "sensed"? I had a new coolant reservoir put in about 18 months ago, so my "hope" is that it's not actually that (though those are really cheap).
Is there something else I should be cleaning / renewing? Maybe as simple as the electrical connection on the reservoir?
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Turned my car on this morning and heard a long loud beep, i look at the car at its saying "Check coolant level low - Check owner's manual"
Turn the car off (engine still cold) pop the hood and coolant reservoir is almost bone dry, way below min level. Check underneath, no apparent leaks, no puddle, etc. Turn car back on, no warning light, drive to dealer, the service advisor looks at it and says there should be no way it's that low that soon.
He said in the morning its common for it to be low but after the engines warmed up it should be higher (and it was) but still below min level. He thought that it was strange and topped it off. Said to keep and eye on it and it will gradually gone down since its 40% water and when it slowly evaporates the level should go down.
So not sure if i have a leak or my car came with low coolant from the factory or something else even, but check your coolant levels
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So I recently bought a Chevy Impala with about 150,000 miles on it. The check engine light is on and sometimes it will tell me my coolant levels are low. I filled it up with coolant and the message still comes on sometimes. Also, when I'm driving, I can feel my rpms go way up when I press the gas, but they car won't accelerate for shit. Sometimes the check engine light will blink, which I've heard is for safety, and my car will barely accelerate at all. I can drive it around town easily the way it is now, but I don't want to risk ruining it. On top of that, my radio and lights will cut in and out sometimes and get better the more gas I give it.
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At the end of last winter, I got the warning flash that my coolant level was low. So I topped up (about a pint or more)About 3 weeks later I had to go through the same scenario !! but then it started to get hot outside and my air conditioner mode took over and lo and behold - no more coolant loss.!!?? Now that winter and cold weather is back - so is my leak!!
So I run off to the local dealer and they get the car up. And drop the belly pan with the engine running and the heat cranked up. the mechanic said he found a dripping hose coming from UNDER the intake manifold.
The engine is a 2002 2.8 v6....
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It's a 99 Passat 1.8 T
The last time it was checked: Last year around March-April
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I have added a quart of recommended oil per the manual (the dipstick is now reading optimal oil). The warning is still on. What actions can be taken and what was the outcome? I am assuming that if the warning is not gone in the morning the sensor is bad.
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Woke up this morning Drop 200 yards before I got a dash notification saying "STOP CHECK COOLANT" Turned off car, turned back on. and noticed never appeared. Showed up to work (temp never went up past half) and check the fluid and its not low. What can cause this.
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Coolant overheat warning. Luckily, was moments from home so pulled in and stopped for about 6 hours. Checked coolant on level surface...looks ok. Started it up and drove around neighborhood. Car steadily climbs to 200 degrees F and then will sit there for around 5 minutes. As oil temperature breaks the halfway point, the coolant temp begins to steadily rise again until it hits just below to overheat mark for a couple minutes, then finally pushes through into the red.
Parked car overnight.
Drove to VW repair shop. Exact same results driving there. Temp increases from ignition to 200 degrees over a couple minutes then stops for 5+ minutes. Oil gets hot, coolant gets hot, I get very hot.Only 10 Months ago, I replaced the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat with genuine parts. I know what a pain in the arse it is to change these items so I did them all at once. I am sick thinking about having to do it yet again with these apes poking around my car.
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Stop check coolant light came on dash tonight. Scanned the car no code. Did a search pointed towards coolant temp sensor. Car had it replaced by vw estimate of 30,000 miles ago. I tried to see if its green top sensor appears the very bottom ring is green but top is black maybe vw's is different than ecs? Planning to do water pump, belt kit from ecs anything else i should be looking at?
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This morning I went to my car started it for 10 seconds the light on my dash said stop and to check coolant, I got a ride to get some coolant filled it up, drove to work than drove home after work and the coolant level is at the same place I filled it up as this morning. What happend that it was gone last night than fine today? 03 vw gti vr6 24v ....
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1999 Camaro V6 125K miles. Occasionally overheats. No noticeable coolant leak. Was pressure tested and passed. Mechanic suggested new radiator cap. New cap installed and was fine for a while then overheated again and problem seems to have intensified. Will a compression test reveal anything regarding this problem?
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On Sunday I'm driving to the store my LOW COOLANT light goes on. So I buy some coolant. I get home let the car cool off and check my radiator, it is full. My coolant recovery tank is also at the proper level.
Been three days already checked levels again and I'm not losing any coolant.
What the car is NOT doing:
1. Not losing fluid
2. Not running hot
I'm thinking coolant level sensor?
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I was getting a check engine light with a P1112 code, so I had a mechanic replace the coolant flow control valve. There's a TSB on that and it seems to be the thing to do. But after the replacement, I'm getting overheat warning light whenever the engine needs to work hard. Also, the cabin heater only works when the gasoline engine is not running... when the engine is off, I get heat (though it's not as hot as I'd think when I have it on max heat), but when the gas engine kicks in, the cabin heat disappears.
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I have a 2000 vw Gti vr6. It leaks coolant smokes and starts to over heat when idling. Does fine when driving down the road. It has a new radiator. When pressure tested I can see a little stream of coolant coming out. But there's no space in the engine bay and I can't see exactly where it's coming from. Like I said it only happens when it's Idling for an extended period of time. It does fine going down the road.
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