Passat (B5) :: GLX Shuts Off When Levels At Idle
Jun 30, 2013
I've been searching for a few days, Can not find an exact same posted issue. 2004 Passat GLX 2.8 Auto FWD. The car starts great, will idle all day if you let it. Will move down the driveway or a small ways down the road and die. start it again, will start easy. die once it levels at idle. Also if you rev it, it will die within a second of revving. If you can get it high enough, say 4000+ it will die, but as the engine speed slows down it will catch again and come alive. and kinda repeat. will do that as long as you hold the gas down. after about 15mins of restarting, it will level out at idle and you can continue on your way. the fuel pump still runs for it's second after the engine dies, so i know it's still going. The car recently had new plugs put on, New brake switch, and the pcv hose that runs from passenger side valve cover to the rear of drivers side along the front was replaced with the same size rubber hose. it broke during new plug install. It idles smooth, drives good while acting right. but does have a noticeable power loss, but still very driveable.
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Lately I have noticed when I start my car in the morning it idles around 800 for about 30 seconds then levels out. No smoke or anything from exhaust. Then after driving for a bit and coming to a stop it does te same thing. It's very intermittent but have noticed it seems to be getting worse. Timing belt n water pump was done about 5 k ago. All new coils done under recall. With new plugs. Air filter was done n oil changed every 3k.. It's a 1.8t aww by the way with 97k on it.
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I drive a 2006 Scion tC with 96000 mileage. The car has been getting a lot of problems lately.
1. P0741 torque converter engine light
2. Lost in power
3. Lost in MPG
4. Shakes a lot inside
5. Low Idle
6. engine shuts off on reverse and d mode
7. Noisy strange sounds
8. Gear slip around 2-3
9. RPM goes high at low speed.
I Replaced,Spark plugs, coil plugs, engine oil, coolant, steering fluid, brake fluid. I need to to replace the transmission fluid. I was told by a couple of shops to get a transmission rebuild....
I also read someones comment online: "It's your transmission. Your torque converter is bad. There is too much torque as a result. When your car is in neutral or park there is no torque being created. When you leave the in gear idle state, the torque is relieved. That is why the problem will go away when you hit the gas."
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Symptoms:
- rough start-up, car shuts down
- backfire when releasing after WOT
- OBD-II codes (see below)
Okay so these issues started to appear only 1 day after I got tuned...
Problem History:
Day 1:
- car started mildly rough
- I got an EPC light on my dash 2 minutes after moving and for 2 seconds the car sounded like an STI (the sound you hear with a misfire)
- I turned it off and on, EPC gone car started up normally
- took it straight to dealer, they checked coils and plugs and said that it's a tune issue.
- went to take it back from the dealer and that was the first time the car shutdown immediately after start-up. it started at second attempt with a quite long ignition sound and the STI-like sound briefly once again.
Day 2:
- I went to my friend and we pulled the codes from OBD-II and only got the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code only (as the dealer probably erased any other code related to my EPC light)
- we deleted the code and drove around
- every time we turn the car off and on. The car starts up mildly rough and the code comes back up
Every 2 days or so:
- the car would require 2 attempts to start but no EPC light coming up.
Day 4:
- I had a night of possibly 6 WOTs to test the cars performance, and it was performing great. didn't feel any loss in power or anything. (was friendly racing my friends modded 135i with very impressive outcomes)
- car backfires after i release the gas pedal at WOT (not with every WOT but 2 out of 6 runs it backfired)
- After the last WOT i got the EPC light. turned the car off and let her relax for 5 minutes.
- car took 2 attempts to startup. with severe roughness and shakes (as if the car is cammed V8 engine) for 5 seconds and then back to normal.
Now since the EPC light came back on i wanted to check if there is another code from the OBD-II. I was hoping that the issue will only be the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code but my fears were true and i got another very annoying code
This is last nights code pull
2 Faults Found:
14914 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 00 [096] - Control Range Not Reached
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
[Code] .....
Day 7:
- The car had the sever start-up roughness again
As I'm trying to find a solution for my problem here are the steps i took/will take:
- took it to the dealer for nothing.
- ordered an O2 sensor extender for the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code and i hope it's somewhat related to the start-up issue. it will arrive today or tomorrow.
- once the extender is here, I'll take it to an exhaust shop to install the extender and check for any DP/Exhaust leaks
- I will take it to a mechanic to check any leaks in all intake/air connectors and piping, any leaks in DV (I have forge recirculating DV), Boost pressure sensors (the piggy back was connected to them and one might be loose when we removed it), spark plugs and coils.
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I have narrowed down my starting issue to a faulty relay(409). When I pulled the relay and cleaned the contacts and reinstalled the pump primed and the car started. Car will idle for about a 1/2 hour and out of the blue it shuts off. If I try to restart, 9 times out of 10 it does not start. If i tap the relay, it starts right up. If the car is running and I tap on the relay the car stutters and if I tap it again it shuts off.
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Like the title says, 89 Chevy G20 V8 5.7l. When coming to a stop or in idle while in drive the van will shut off. Here are the symptoms.1. When driving below 10MPH the oil pressure gauge will drop to 0 and then the van shuts off.2. When starting the van a nice white plume of smoke comes out of the exhaust.3. Van had been chugging a bit when stopped and the AC was on. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator today thinking that possibly the engine was getting flooded when slowing down, but that did not fix the problem.
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2007 Santa Fe 3.5 ... All of a sudden today the engine is vacillating and at idle shuts off. I have to keep my left foot on the brake pedal and the other on the right to keep it running without lurching forward. Does this sound like the throttle body?
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I got a mkv R32 with 57k miles (DSG transmission) on it and the past few weeks ive been having some crazy issues. My car shuts off once in awhile when I come to a stop in traffic or at red lights. Last night it happen again I came to a red light and the car shut off, when I restarted it my idle was bouncing all over the place all the way up to 2500rpm and down to 1300rpm. Also, in addition to the idle every time i started pressing the gas the car would KICK like something was wrong with the transmission and a CEL came on. I ran the codes and it said MAF was at fault and I have had a MAF code again maybe a month ago.
I am thinking of replacing the MAF to see if it fixes the problem and I was wondering if it is a straight hardware swap or will i need to do some programming with a vag com?
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I recently purchased a 1969 dodge dart, with the 225 inline 6. I have done the usual repairs (fluid changes, spark plugs and wires, fuel pump and line, thermostat, and even carburetor and distributor). The car starts and drives alright except when at idle such as red lights where it begins to tremble and shuts off. I have to start it again and begin to accelerate it while idling to keep it from giving out. I fixed the timing and switched to electrical distributor but the problem has persisted.
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1997 Subaru SVX (Alcyone) LSi, 3.3L H6 engine.
My SVX was driven from Denver to Las Vegas, NV and it developed an odd habit where the RPMs would start to oscillate while on cruise control. I had to disengage the cruise control to get the oscillations to stop. Three days later I was driving the SVX to work and the RPMs started oscillating at idle and the car started running rough and it died.
These things have all been replaced with OEM grade parts: Spark plugs, electric fuel pump & strainer & fuel filter, Mass Air Flow sensor, new air filter and fuses.
The car starts up fine but after a few seconds the RPMs begin to oscillate. Then the car tries to recover, the idle becomes rough, and the the RPMs drop very low and the engine shuts off.
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1992 S10 Blazer, 4.3L, 4x4, TBI "Z"
When I start the truck, it idles rough, like it's idling too low, and even feels like it's missing during idle. Sometimes when I put it in gear (reverse or drive), it shuts off. No codes are being thrown. It has no problems driving around town or on the highway. It's just that initial start and idle.
I've checked all the following with a shop manual:
Ignition Control Mod.- Orig and 2nd one from junk yard. Both tested good at store. Even the testing in the shop manual with an ohm meter and battery tested good.
Ignition coil- tested good using shop manual testing
TPS- Scan shows .2-.7 at idle.
Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are good.
Vacuum is good.
Haven't checked IAC, EGR
I recently moved cross country, and about halfway through, I broke down. Engine would turn over, fuel relay would click, injectors would work, but no fuel. Pulled it in to a truck shop, and after all my testing and theirs, we determined it was the fuel pump. After they had to fix a pinched hose, it ran. I made it to Texas. I didn't have the idle issues prior to the trip. Just had the tranny rebuilt and everything was great.
I thought, at first, the ignition control mod was the problem because it got a bit warm pulling the trailer, and I know those things don't like too much heat. No dice. So, what controls idle at Park and in gear but at idle? EGR, IAC?
I did a WinALDL scan. IAC at Park/Idle ranges from 18-55. The engine never runs in Open Loop. I would say the engine runs mostly rich according to the scan. I've attached a manageable version of the WinALDL data.
Also, I need to check the thermostat or temp sensor. Scan reads the engine never getting higher than 180.
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Every time i stop for gas..my 01 santa fe is hard to start..it would take 4 to 5 start before she goes, then i have to keep the rpm up, bring her to idle..after that shes ok, till the next fill up.. the only way around this is to keep her running while gassing up..while filling up she run rough idle, some time engine shuts off..then its hard to start..
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PCV hose/grommet was rotted out with 1 inch hole but supposedly he spent a long time tracking down the problem. It was located way in the back middle (like underneath the wiper blades area).
2002 F150 XLT Crew Cab 4.6L 4x4 170K
What known issues would do this but not turn engine light on? Motor sounds excellent and runs excellent. Previously it was missing and engine code come up as random misfire, misfire cylinder #2 and #4. I replaced the coil packs on 2 and 4 and erased the code and there was a 1000% difference. Ran excellent (still does).
However, a week later I noticed a subtle shake in the motor, and at idle it would stay at 1...maybe slowly chirp just above 1, and then sputter a little down to 1/2 rpm. It will do this and stay running, but sometimes it will cut off.
What are the possible things that you think it could be considering no check engine codes? (Bad motor?)
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Its been 1 thing after another with this car!!! i have a 02 passat with 1.8t eng. It loses power and shuts off!! its my wifes car and dont want her driving it until i can trust it again.
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It showed up when the car wouldnt start. It would start but the rpms would just fall then shuts down. And now I have been having issues with the car not starting. At times it would start on the first try and others i have literally tried over 10 times and it wouldnt start... eventually it always starts but i dont want to get to the point where i get stranded.
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I've owned my 2003 Santa fe v4 for about a year and a half now. One thing that has always bothered me in the fact my air condition works on only two out of four levels. Level 2 and Level 3 work perfectly, but level 1 and level 4 dont work, and have never worked.
I've gotten a lot of things replaced, but never bothered with this as I barely use it anyways (windows down + high speed = just as good).
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While I am driving my Passat randomly shuts off and then will not start for 5 min - a few hours. No beeps or warnings, the car just shuts off. When I try to restart it, everything sounds normal, the engine turns over fine, but it just wont start.
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So I have a 2012 TDI. 55k miles on it. Maintained 100 percent at he dealer. My wife takes the car to work today and three blocks away from the house, the car shudders and shuts off won't turn back on. I go get her so she can take another car to work and when I try to crank the car, it says Engine off, Oil pressure. Car won't turn on.
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When I'm listening to the radio and bring the car to a stop the radio shuts off when I turn the car off. Is there a way to get it to stay on until I open a door or something like that? It's kind of annoying if I'm in the middle of a news story to have to keep the car idling so I don't miss something.
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Ok so i was sitting at the light and my car was making weird noises like a computer was loading or something and then all of a sudden the car just randomly died ..
what is wrong???
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Just as I was about to start my '03 S10 I noticed that all of the gauges were not at zero and showed various levels even though the key was not inserted. When I tried to start it there was nothing. I charged the battery overnight and it started without hesitation; however, as I started driving, the gauges would stop working and then suddenly jump to life and, at the same time, all the idiot lights would light up! This carried on the entire 20 minute drive to work. Incredibly, none of this happened on the way home. My OBD reader reported zero issues. What's wrong with my truck?
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