Passat (B5) :: Fuel Shut Off While Driving Too Fast?
Jan 12, 2007
I would like to know if my car has a fuel shut off if you drive too fast?
and if yes how can you remove this?
I would like to know if my car has a fuel shut off if you drive too fast?
and if yes how can you remove this?
My cousin was driving his car last weekend and the car shut off on him, after we towed it home i hooked it up and got the following codes:
2 Faults Found:
012555 - Low Pressure Fuel regulation: Fuel Pressure Outside Specification
P310B - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
004767 - Low-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulation: Pressure too High
P129F - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
I cleared the MIL and its off but its still throwing the second code.. What would cause this? failing fuel pump?
I have a audi a4 1.8t engine code atw and for awhile i would have random no starts then about two weeks ago it shut off while i was driving home from school and hasn't started since. it turns over fine but i am getting no spark and im getting the error codes p1517, p1433, and p0321 so far i have changed the crank position sensor, the cam position sensor, and the ecm main power supply relay. Still I am getting no start i cant figure this out...
View 7 RepliesAs of about a week ago I have noticed that while driving once in awhile the dashboard will just shut off for about 2 seconds and go black all dials drop to zero and then it will come back on again but with everything reset to 0. I also now have an airbag fault lit up on the dash that was never there before. The car runs fine and does not shut off or anything when this happens but is unnerving. I scanned the ecu and no codes.
View 6 RepliesWorking on a 88 Ranger 2.9L 5-speed ext cab. The fuel pressure drops off fairly fast when turned off and I'm pretty sure that the check valve is bad. My question is, which pump has the check valve? It is a single mid tank set-up and has a pump in the tank and on the frame.
Pressure is fine while running. about 30psi @ idle and 40psi with no vacuum on the regulator. The pressure drops off within a couple of minutes which causes it to have to crank over for a bit to rebuild pressure and start.
It looks like the frame pump is readily available while the in take pump is special order. I just need to know which one has a check valve. I'm thinking the in tank pump, but I hate to waste money for the wrong pump.
Pressure drop rate
30 psi @ shut off
25 psi @ 1:05 min
20PSI @ 2:30 min
15psi @ 4:45 min
still dropping
I am wondering about how fast to accelerate for maximizing fuel economy. I understand with the P&G approach that you don't want to get up to speed too slowly. The question is whether it really is more efficient to go ahead and get up to speed or stay within the ECO guidelines? In particular, I find that getting up to highway speed especially that it can take quite a while to get up to 70 mph without having it going into the power range. It seems like it is better to get up to speed and then back off to go to the high efficiency mode.
View 16 RepliesSo the other day i was driving down the road, pulled into the gas station and the car shut off and the dash began flickering rapidly.
I popped the hood and the thing that controls the air fuel mixture- when you step on the peddle it moves(sorry cant think right now lol) well it is moving slightly back and forth rapidly also.
I popped the panel under the steering wheel off because i heard a flickering noise coming from it when the key was turned and it was coming from the fuel pump relay.
My question is- is the fuel pump relay something that would just fail and cause the car to shut off. or is it making the clicking noise an indicator that there is a problem somewhere. I looked up the part and it is only 40 bucks, but I am low on money and cant afford to be fishing around ordering parts trying to diagnose the problem.
How can you tell if the EBH is working? I thing there is a little bit more heat coming from the vents, but its hard to tell. I am thinking of putting the car on ramps and touching the block next to where the EBH is. The gas engine doesn't seem to be shutting off any faster.
View 18 RepliesOkay, So this has happened to me about five times now over the past year or so. I will be driving and my car will literally shut off. yesterday, I was driving on the freeway and was just cruising at 75mph when all of a sudden out of no where my car makes a big jolt and then the rpm's go from around 3k to 0. I have had this in the shop for this problem many times and no one can really seem to figure out what is wrong. when my car shuts off while im driving, the oil light comes on, traction control light comes on, as well as the battery light. What's even more weird about this problem is once the car stops, if i try to start it right away it wont fire up... It will just roll over. But. if I wait for a while the car starts and drives normal with all the lights off. This is not only annoying but very dangerous.
View 8 RepliesI took my 2008 Prius to Jiffy Lube to have oil changed. When driving away, I made it about one block and all warning lights came on: Master Warning, Hybrid System Warning, Brake System Warning, Malfunction, etc. I pulled the car over and stopped. I started the car again, lights still there - drove 2 blocks back to Jiffy Lube and lost momentum about one block away, with pedal to floor, I could drive about 5 miles an hour into the bay. They looked at it for about 30 minutes and claimed I had bird seed that dropped under the air filter.... I said "goodbye" called AAA and had it towed to my dealer. They said it was because air had entered the system due to my being low on fuel. I have never heard of being low on fuel and it causing the car to shut down nor did I ever get a warning of low gas, still on one bar. Each time I restarted the car at Jiffy Lube, it started fine, drove forward or backward, then lost momentum again. Still no warning of being out of gas. The ticket from the dealer states:
"Vehicle low on fuel causing ECU to shut down fuel injectors when engine started to misfire. Found codes P0A0F, P3190 in system. Added 5 gallons of fuel and reset ECU."
Have a 95 Bronco with 5.8, I turn the key on and fuel pump doesn`t shut off. Changed fuel pressure regulator still no shut off. Changed relays, no luck. Have 38 pounds pressure with key on, but no start. Checked spark just in case, and have fire. Don't know what to try next.
View 10 RepliesLast night while driving I saw the needle at zero and was surprised because I refilled a few days earlier, there was also no warning light to refuel the car. When reached home turned the car off and then on and the needle moved in position.
It happened again this evening and restart cured it ... only for the gauge to fail again while driving. The fuel-to-empty indicator was not showing any distance.
1999 Savanna 1500 van. This has been a great Van, only has 70,000 miles and has never let me down until a few months ago in February when it was getting down to -20 degrees F. Seemed like it was cranking fast so I thought it was timing. Turned out there was no fuel pressure so first put the relay in, that didn't work so we dropped the tank and put a fuel pump in. This seemed like it cured the problem but I only drove it 200 miles until mid May when it did it again.
The security light wasn't staying on so we thought it must be the ignition switch. That didn't fix it either, we just got the ignition switch back together (not the actual switch but the wiring harness) and it's not starting again. It will start after some anguish and cursing at it. Seems like messing with the wires going to the fuel pump or hitting the cover over the fuel tank will cause it to start. I haven't checked it yet but I can guarantee it doesn't have any fuel pressure.
The heater in my car only blows hot air when I'm driving fast. At stop signs it blows cold. You can imagine how this affects my driving strategy. What the problem might be?
View 5 RepliesMy air conditioner is giving me problems. For some reason, when I drive around town taking short trips, my AC refuses to cool the car down. I've also noticed the "outside temperature" gauge displayed in the cluster shows the temperature about 20 degrees hotter than it actually is.
I noticed today while driving on the highway, once I hit 45mph or so, the cool air really started to come through. I've looked at it with a non-Toyota tech after driving around for about an hour, and when we're sitting and idling the low pressure pipe doesn't seem to get cool. After my ride today, I popped the hood when I stopped to check, and it was cool to touch, but not cold as I've felt on other cars.
We also checked the pressure within the system, and it's right on the money (so he says). What could be causing this? I know my AC has never really been as fast as other cars given I keep it in eco mode, but it literally blows warm air until I start going an an accelerated speed.
Carburetor: Autolite 4100
Fast Idle Speed: 1250 RPM
Curb Idle Speed: 600 RPM (At normal operating temperature)
When I cold start my truck, the fast idle speed holds the throttle at 1500 RPM. I will let it idle about 30 seconds or so, and then I will tap the gas to bring the idle down.
When I do this, the idle will immediately drop all the way down, and too low for a cold engine. The engine won't stall, but it will hover just below 500 RPM, which is a bit too low to idle smoothly.
But when the engine is at operating temperature, the idle speed is 600 RPM and the engine will happily idle smoothly.
Shouldn't there be an "in between" speed? When I tap the gas pedal at 1500 RPM to bring the idle down some, shouldn't the speed drop down a little lower, like 1000 RPM since the engine is still a bit cold?
If so, what do I need to adjust? The Autolite 4100 works PERFECTLY otherwise.
My roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
View 7 RepliesMy Nissan Altima is normally fine but after about 40 minutes to an hour of driving even in cool temperatures the car stops wanting to accelerate much and the RPM needle will jump from 1-2k to 5k almost instantly when applying more gas. I can be at 5k RPMs and barely climb 1 to 2 mph every few seconds in my car. This issue will persist till I turn the car off for a short while. Once The car has cooled down and been idle for a bit the car works fine again for 40 to 60 minutes. I also don't want to take it in because I doubt they'll get the problem to reproduce unless they drive it for up to an hour.
View 10 RepliesA 2010 Prius III: Its been a few days now that its doing this.
While I'm driving, the car would start to beep fast (3-4 beeps per sec), the brake and steering wheel stops working, its very stiff and brake pedal is hard! Along with that, there's 4 lights came on the dash; traction control, abs, brake and tire pressure. All this happens when the car starts to beep, and the beep last anywhere from 2-5 second, constantly!
I checked everything and its normal, gas half tank, keyless key is in my pocket, all doors closed, brake pads looks good, tires are good. I've had this car for 4 years, its at 45k miles.
My 2nd gen 2007 Prius started to show a strange behavior today and I don't find any answer to it. While driving without any cars close, with all seat belts closed and nothing on the passenger seat I started to hear slow paced beeps (approx. 20) then fast paced beeps. When I switch off the car and started it again I got the same beeps after approx. 30 seconds. I never got any visual warning and the OBD reader doesn't show any error code.
View 2 RepliesI had just replaced my the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel bowl because it appeared to be leaking from where the FPR is, now with the new FPR , it is no longer leaking from there but now leaking (fast steady leak while running) from the fuel rail outlet fitting... How do you replace these, why all of the sudden it started leaking there ???
View 9 Replies