Passat (B5) :: Fuel Gauge Stays On Zero Even Though With Enough Gas
Jun 28, 2011
Recently my car had a stroke.... the fuel gauge (analog) stays on zero (digital-miles remaining in tank) says ---- even though i just put gas in, the ac isnt working the outside temp reads -- celsius when it should say something and fahrenheit, driver side switches only puts down driver side window, i can't move the side mirrors the controls are unresponsive. the radio won't turn off on its own when i turn the car off or start on its own when i turn the car on. the car is driving fine no change in how it responds. the only thing wrong is 95% of all the electronics.
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My fuel guage stopped working, it just stays on empty, no sign of moving when the ignition is turned on and off. What the voltages should be or have a good system for problem solving this to locate where the problem is.
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My 07 Santa Fe fuel gauge doesn't seem to be working. what can the problem be??
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I just bought a 01 Intrigue that the dash lights don't work and the gas gauge stays at fuel when you start the car. It goes to empty when you shut it off.
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Two years ago I acquired a very very nice 2001 F350 DRW crew cab. The person I purchased it from put a Remanufactured 7.3 in it and set the truck up to pull wedge trailers. He put 25K miles on it and put it on Craig's list where I found it. It just turned over 300,000 miles.
One of the changes he made was to install a 70 gallon fuel tank in the frame rails below the bed. He told me that when the gauge reads EMPTY there is still 20 gallons in the tank. I remember him telling me that this anomaly is due to using the stock Ford pickup in the larger tank.
I have never filled the tank because so far the truck is used locally. I usually put 10 to 20 gallons in and when it gets to E I do the same fueling.
Then one day I turned the key on and the needle went up and beyond the full indication.
I can get under it and maybe the tank has some name or model number on it.
The truck runs fine, but the gauge concerns me. Eventually the truck will be making round trips from Chicago to our retirement home in Santa Fe, NM. It would be nice to have a working fuel gauge!
I have spoken to the person I purchased the truck from. He installed the tank as part of a complete upgrade that included a re-manufactured 7.3. The fuel tank is a 67 gallon Titan mounted between the frame rails. He believes that the original Ford sending unit was installed. That means it has 300,000 miles on it. I had the truck on a lift yesterday and it is a very tight fit. The garage said the best way to do the repair is to remove the bed. Six bolts, disconnect the tail lights and the 7 pin trailer connector and it is off.
So, my questions now are... Should I stay with a new Ford sending unit or are there better ones to install? Are there any other updates to the fuel delivery system that should or could be done at the time?
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Ok so the fuel gauge says empty and the low fuel light stays on even though the tank is full. I'm assuming its either the gauges or the sending unit. If it is the sending unit where is it located on this car?
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I have a '99 1.8T Passat. The coolant temperature gauge normally reaches operating temperature of 190 degrees within about 5 minutes and stays there. For some reason, after reaching 190, it sometimes drops by 20-30 degrees and is running cooler than normal. Once time it dropped down, then came back up again, while driving a steady 65 mph. The coolant level is full and nothing else has changed.
I guess there are a few possibilities: a thermostat stuck open too far, a failing temperature sensor, bad gauge, or loose connection at the sensor. The car has 145K miles and the thermostat and water pump were replaced at about 100K miles. What is going on? If it runs a little too cool, is that a big deal? How would I diagnose it? Where is the temperature sensor?
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I have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
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Having problems with the fuel indicator not reading full after a fill up. I have slowly filled my 2012 Passat TDI SEL till I can see diesel in the filler neck and the gauge still only shows 7/8 full?
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Last night while driving I saw the needle at zero and was surprised because I refilled a few days earlier, there was also no warning light to refuel the car. When reached home turned the car off and then on and the needle moved in position.
It happened again this evening and restart cured it ... only for the gauge to fail again while driving. The fuel-to-empty indicator was not showing any distance.
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So yesterday I was driving home from work.. I know my tank was 3/4 full. All of a sudden, my low fuel light came on and my gas gauge needle went to empty.
The needle sits at E, but it still says about 20 miles till empty on the MFD. When I left the house this morning, it said 5miles till empty.. by the time I got to work, it said 20. Kinda odd..
I will hook up the vagcom when I get home tonight, any area I should scan for? or just a complete scan? There is no CEL error on the dash though. What I could look at to fix this?
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so on last saturday while i was driving my coolant gauge went from "operating temp" and dropped to cold. I was at cold for a few seconds and then bounced between cold and "operating temp" a few times before.
Now this morning driving to work the car warmed up fine to "operating temp". I was driving to work and all the sudden the gauge just goes straight to cold and stays there. I tried messing with the heater control buttons, turned on the a/c, defrost, heat, blower on high, blower on low... everything. Needle never moved from cold. I had heat at every temp desired, a/c got cold when i turned it on. I don't have a cel or any error codes showing...
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I have a 95 Chevy astrology van that I've owned for about a year. On occasion (about once a month) when I start it, the battery gauge stays in the red and all the lights are dim. After driving a bit I can stop the van and restart it, and the battery gauge normally shoots up to normal, and lights are all bright again. Don't have any problems outside of that, until now. For the last 4 day, my battery gauge has refused to pop out of the red, and lights are always dim. I can drive for a couple hundred miles and nothing changes. Last night, as I left work, it ran like it has been with low battery and then just died. There is no clicking, no "whirring" sound the starter normally makes, the battery just died. I'm on a very small budget and can't afford a shop, or both battery and alternator. What are your thoughts on this problem and where should I invest my money? As a side note, battery cables and posts are cleaned off, and are bolted securely. Nothing loose and no corrosion.
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After about a 5 mile drive my '05 6 cyl Santa Fe always smells hot. The temp gauge needle always stays mid point. Coolant is good and is changed regularly. No oil in coolant or coolant in oil. No cracks in recovery bottle or hoses. All hoses tight, has been pressure tested and is ok. No heater core leak, no visible leaks anywhere in the engine compartment or under the car and no green patches on the radiator. After about a week of driving the recovery bottle level is down about 3/4" but the radiator is full to the neck. Where the coolant is going and how to locate the source?
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I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid with a 2.7 motor. I have cold heat but it will still defrost windows the temp gauge stays around the 1/2 way mark.
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I just noticed the oil pressure gauge on this Pontiac TS GT stays in the red zone at idle and climbs a little out of it at 2000 rpm and higher (never over the first unit). There's no other warning light or error in the dashboard - just the scary oil pressure gauge.
We brought this car home for repairs after a 600 km trip (370 miles) without any issues in mountain roads or hot weather. Engine temperature was well below the first quarter mark, acceleration was great and there was no strange sounds whatsoever...
When first started cold engine has no lifter or tapping noise. What would be the most obvious sign of oil starvation/low pressure on this engine?
Is there any way to confirm it beside the dash gauge? With this 3.8 engine what would be the most probable cause for this:
1. defective oil pressure sensor
2. failed oil pump
3. worn crankshaft bearings
4. worn camshaft bearings or other cause
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I have a 2001 ford ranger xlt 2.3L and the temperature gauge has been staying a cold. And my heat doesnt heat well. I'm guessing I need to replace the thermostat. Before I do that could it be anything else?
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The gas gauge on my 2008 does not seem accurate. I had three bars left the other day and when I filled up it took 6.5 gallons. Normally with three bars it only takes 5.5 gallons. Also, it stays on "full" (all bars) a long time.
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Normally, the temp gauge in my 4-cylinder 1993 Dodge Caravan stays a half-division below the middle, once it warms up.
Recently, though, it sometimes goes all the way to hot and then back down to the middle, taking maybe 5 seconds to go up and then 5 seconds to go back down. This seems to mostly happen after the car has been sitting for a long time (like a week), and when it happens, it only happens once, usually around the time the engine gets warmed up.
I also noticed this weekend that it would frequently go up a division or so and then go back down again, again, taking maybe 5 seconds. It happened maybe 10 times in a 50-mile trip, often (but not always) when going uphill.
I've checked the coolant level -- the reservoir is close to max. I also checked that there isn't an air bubble by loosening the radiator cap.
What this is? Thermostat? Fan (or fan relay)? Water pump? Faulty temperature sensor? I don't know enough about how the cooling system works to hazard a guess.
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I have my aux fuel tank pump hooked to upfitter 3. It has worked perfectly until this week. I started to transfer fuel and the aux fuel gauge and fuel pump both quit. The led on upfitter switch 3 still illuminates, but no fuel pump. I found fuse 9 on passengers kick panel is for upfitter 3. The fuse was good. Is there another fuse somewhere for the circuit I've missed? I can trouble shoot the wiring if necessary, but it's tough to do all behind the left side underbed box and not easy to get to. I've missed something simple before I go further????
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I recently had my fuel pump replaced in my 2005 GTI ... twice. Both times, the fuel gauge no longer shows a full tank, and doesn't show empty tank correctly. Is there some way to reset the gauge? Is the pump somehow tied to the gauge, or did the mechanics mess the float up when they changed the pump? Sadly I had it repaired somewhere other then the dealer.
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