Passat (B5) :: Failed MAF - Circuit Condition Or Idle Speed Is Higher / Lower Than Expected
Dec 12, 2007
I got this "Failed MAF" along w/this "circuit condition or idle speed is higher/lower than expected" codes when I hooked up my car, what does this mean????
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2007 Passat 2.0t tiptronic
I personally think it might be the relay, but before replacing/looking for opinion.
Here are the codes
4 Faults Found:
001287 - Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected.
P0507 -- 001 -- Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 3
[Code] ......
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Car started idling all weird this evening, rising and falling when at a stop light. Car APR Stg 2+. Found the fault code above. I changed the map back to stock and cleared the code and it still does it. I let the car sit for like 30 minutes and started it up again and it sounds even worse like it wants to stall. I did a few google searches and it seems that it could be a faulty PCV or throttle body. How should I proceed? I'm thinking change the PCV and if the problem is still there it's a potentially larger issue.
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I got a "P054F- Idle Control System - Fuel Quantity Higher Than Expected" this morning and again this afternoon. I did a search and the only threads that contain the code are the codes lists and one guy who got the code but no follow up. I found a few instances through Google, but almost all of them said the dealers just reset the code. It seems to happen in cold weather, which we are having. Both instances were in the same situation, remote start warmed up then short town drives. No CEL came on. Anyway, I reset it and I'll see what happens.
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My 98 1.8t Passat is throwing a P1565 Idle Speed Control Throttle Position Lower Limit Not Obtained. I have cleaned the throttle body with no improvement and cleared the code many times with no luck. The car only has 114k on it car runs fine although some times will give me problems starting it ill have to sit and crank it for 40 seconds or more and also will idle on rear occasions 1300 vut normally between 850 and 900.
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The idle speed is higher than normal, about 800-900 RPM. Whenever I stop for the traffic light, the engine will behave as if someone is pressing the gas pedal intermittently. It has new spark plug wires and coil.
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I have a 2004 Camry XLE V6 with about 70k with a CEL P0171 that came on yesterday. Looks like that code is for a lean condition. Could it be a bad O2 sensor or is that a different code and what should I look for to fix this code?
Also, I'm not sure if this is related but for the past few months my engine has sounded different. When I first start it up and at low RPM like 2,000 and under the engine sounds like a go kart, not necessarily louder it's just a different lower tone that it never used to have. It has sounded like this for 6 months but the light just came on yesterday.
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Just noticed the other day when when rolling up or down the window on my 2010 corolla, when the window reaches the upper / lower stop and the switch is held down, the idle speed drops and the engine stumbles. Alternator ?
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What exactly influences MAF readings to be higher or lower? For example I am running similar boost and timing to other Stage 1 cars but my MAF peaks at 238 g/s while others are in the 250's I have heard that you can relate MAF to power but its not exact. I have a Forge Twintake and Stage 1 tune, I have been looking at peoples logs all night and I don't understand why my MAF is reading lower than other Stage 1 and 1+ cars.
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is locking in 4m but is too high, suppose to be ~2200rpm.When I checked with vagcom the speed shown on computer show a speed with 20km/h higher than the real speed (shown at speedometer)
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Sometimes I will stop at a light and my idling rpm will go from 600 (usual rate she idles at) to about 950. While this may seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of things, it's noticeable enough that it seems like the car wants to go. It'll lead me to depress the brake more. You can also hear the higher pitch of the faster turning engine (it is a 50% increase in speed). This will happen at random times so I have not been able to pinpoint if it is caused by a particular driving style. ECM for this?
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Shifting into gear was a problem occasionally, but lately, within 15 minutes of driving, I start feeling the shifting into higher or lower gear getting stiffer and will not shift into gear.I've shared the problem with couple of my mechanics and it left them puzzled, since there are no leaks or low levels of fluid.
B2600i '92 cab ....
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I have begun to notice that when I start my van each morning for the first time that it is reving at a higher RPM then it did back during the winter. During the winter it may have been around 1000rpms at start before lowering down after a few minutes. Now it is starting at about 1500 and then returning down to the lower level after a few minutes of warming up. Could the change in outside temps cause this?
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I have a camry 2000 automatic transmission with 150 K on it. For last few months I am having this sporadic issue with it having difficulty to change the gear from lower to higher gear(from the first to second, i guess). It goes like this, when i start speeding up the car, its having difficulty to move to higher gear, it just revs up to like 5 - 6 K rpm and with a jerk it shifts the gear. And at the same time check engine light goes on. And during the time this check engine light is on, it does this same thing a couple of times or so.
Then after some time the check engine light goes away and the car runs just fine without any issues for some tine and then the same thing happens again and after some time the issue and the check engine light goes away and the car runs just fine again. this keeps happening every few weeks. So I took the car to the mechanic (check engine light has gone away at this time, who told the code was showing some "speed sensor" issue and they replaced this. After that the car ran just fine for a couple of months. But its starting to do the same thing again.
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I have a 1996 escort wagon with strange auto transmission behavior. Sometimes during the summer months but mostly during the winter; the transmission will start off in 3rd gear from a stop and won't go any higher or lower. If I drive it around for a while, it will suddenly shift into 4th then the transmission will act normally for a while then for no reason will just suddenly start off in 3rd gear from a dead stop. It has been doing this for about 8 months now. 146k miles. I have tried shifting through all the gears manually. It will drop down into first when I put the lever there, but when I move the lever back up into drive, it goes right back into 3rd.
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My Subaru want to stall when it shifts from a higher to a lower gear when driving up a grade/hill. Also does the same thing when pulling out from a stop sign or traffic light. You need to pump the accelerator to get it going.
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I have a 2002 Vue with an annoying "service engine soon" light problem. When I first took the car in to have it scanned, codes 171, 172 came up, which were "Fuel too lean Bank 1/Bank 2". It also has a problem with a high idle condition where the idle will creep up to 2000 rpm when parked, and a vacuum leak. My mechanic fixed the vacuum leak and replaced the gaskets on the intake manifold plenum, reset the light, gave it back to me and within twenty miles the light came on again. It only has 20,000 miles on it....
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My sport trac has just started having a very strange problem. When I start the truck none of the gauges on the dashboard work... not the indicators or the RPM or the speedometer. The gas gauge will visibly move higher when I brake and lower when I accelerate.
But a few min after I start driving everything pops on. What could be causing this?
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I recently installed the apr turbo compressor inlet hose and eurojet smic on my 20th. I am running apr stg. 1 software on apr diverter valve. I also have 3" ghl turbo back exhaust. The three codes I am getting triggered shortly after the 2 upgrades I mentioned above we're installed. In detail the codes read specific:
-idle air control system: RPM higher than expected
-bank 1 mixture adaptation(add): system too lean
-turbo/super charger: overboost condition
When the car idles it seems to miss every now and then I think cause the fuel mixture. It also does idle higher than it did before (~900rpm) when the cel comes on it seems to fix the missing issue but not idle rpms. I am running the stock ko3s turbo and am soon planning on a Eurosport cold air intake. Am I harming my engine? Can I get the light to stay off?
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I bought my 3.6 in november with 2k miles on and now have 15k, in the last month or 2 I've noticed that at odd times it idles high. It normally idles at 500-600 id say and will randomly peak to 1000-1100. It wouldn't really bother me except it sounds like hell and I have to practically stand on the brakes for it not to jump forward. I've had 13k miles and 6 months of problem free driving
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My 1993 Celica, 1.6, 5-speed manual left drive shaft failed and I am trying to replace it myself. I have the new part in hand, but for some reason, the inner splined shaft does not want to go all the way into the transaxle. I have tapped the rotor end of the shaft with a mallet and tried to force it in, but everything Ive tried wont work.
My car is down for the count until I can get this drive shaft back in.
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