Passat (B5) :: Engine Makes Knocking Sound At Idle After 30 Minutes - Code P0411
Mar 16, 2013
I have a 2002 1.8T with about 75k miles which makes a harsh rhythmic sound at idle after about 30 minutes of driving. If I tap the accelerometer to increase the rpm and release it goes away and is silent. Recently it also seems to be making the same sound when it starts but goes away as soon as I drive. The sound seems to be coming from the front lower right (passenger side).
I have changed the timing belt about 18 months ago (along with the water pump, tensioner, etc. using an ECS tuning kit) and it ran fine (seemed even smoother than before) but it had a small engine oil leak which my mechanic fixed. I think this sound started after he repaired the leak. I've left the car with him for a week and he just called and said it he couldn't figure it out but it could be an oil pressure problem but I have not had any issues with an oil pressure light.
I have had issues with the P0411 code over the same and have replaced both the secondary air pump and the combi valve but the code just reappeared and my mechanic says he has checked the entire system again and can't figure out what is causing the problem. Not sure if the two can be related but just thought I would add that. The car runs fine otherwise and I have always used synthetic and the large oil filter but I am beginning to think this could be a sludge issue (the noise).
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l have a 98 s10 with the "x" code 4.3l. While driving the cel started flashing and it lost all power. after got home i scanned the codes and revealed a MAF sensor error. replaced the maf sensor, which did not work. Then replaced the cap, rotor, and wires as they were burned through. This made the truck run fine when given gas, but makes a knocking sound at idle and stalls.
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this is the engine code we got when we checked it out
it also says air injection problem...
what's wrong here?
i assume its something with the vaccum lines?
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I have recently noticed that my Azera makes a "knocking" sound right after starting the engine. It just about a dozen of fast short knocks one after another and it is gone after 2 seconds (like a diesel engine started on low temp. It appears more often when the engine is rather cold.
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I have this whistling noise that developed after re installing my stock airbox. Seems to have just started right after installation. Cant seem to pinpoint what is going on. I also had a error code come u p(p0411). 1.8t b5.5 passat ...
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So i got a 98 passat sedan used and was told it read a p0411 code. The person at autozone told him it was a cam sensor. The sensor was replaced. I know now from the manual that codes reads for sec. Air injection system , incorrect flow. It could be the vacuum lines. Now lets say it is the vacuum lines. Their is a misfire on cylinders 1-3.
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Just installed a short Ram intake on my 2000 Vw Jetta 1.8t. Had the Intake for about 250 miles and now the check engine light came on. Just pulled the code p0411 secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected. Is this just cause there is more air going through the MAF sensor?
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98 Taurus, 6cyl, 3.0L OHV, 184K miles. Check engine light is on and code reads "P0411 - secondary air injection system - incorrect flow". This is my son's hand me down car and has a rather large exhaust leak that I plan on fixing. Could this code be related ?? I found out that the CEL has been on for quite sometime now and the car is due for emissions testing (state inspection) in October.
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I have an 05 Accent with about 115,000 miles. It is a GLS automatic.
This morning as I was pulling from a stop light about 30 seconds from my office the car was extremely sluggish. I noticed the CEL light blinking and could hear a knocking sound from the engine. I pulled over and found code P0303, cylinder #3 misfire.
I checked the spark plug cable on the coil side it looks ok. I have not been able to check anything else yet as I am at work.
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I have a 1999 passat 1.8t with 197k miles. When I drive if you listen really closely the engine makes a pretty cool sound like a turbo winding. It's a really really low whooooooo on the first and second gear. You cant hear it unless you have the windows down and there's like no other cars. Is this normal? My friend said the turbo might be going bad ?
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My 2000 Toyota Corolla is making a knocking sound that gets worse when the car is in idle and in drive. I have a feeling that it is dying, but is it unsafe?
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I took my car into the dealer to have them check out the loud knocking/pinging sound from the engine. First time, they told me that it was normal. It bugged the heck out of me so I took it in for the second time. Note: I was given a loaner to drive and it happened to be another 06 Passat 2.0T and this one sounded fine to me. The lead tech did kind of agree that it was a bit loud. So, they replaced a new fuel pump and did an oil change....?? But that of course didn't fix the issue. The noise is so loud that I can hear it inside the car w/ windows up when I'm sitting in traffic or at the light. Also at night, I can hear it when I'm standing about 15 or 20 yrds away from the front of the car.
I realize that the engines will have some sort of knocking sound (my 330i does that), but shouldn't be this loud. So, does this sound normal? BTW, the dealer told me that they contacted VW engineers and was told that it was perfectly normal. I don't really buy that!! I've only had this car for almost a month (took advantage of the CPO w/ 2.9% fin) and I don't want to have to deal with this if this seems to be an issue. I guess who does, huh?
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My 1999 VW Passat has a check engine P0411, P0422, so I looked for any damaged vacuum lines and found one that was all melted coming out of the blue vacuum reservoir tank in the front left lower bumper area. The line was broken off and I cannot figure out where this line is supposed to go.
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it was warmer the day than it usually was so it dosnt make the noise as bad however there is usually a lot of clatter/knock from the engine when cold. does it at idle and while accelerating. it gets less once the engine warms up but has been doing it for a while. car has 93k miles and synthetic oil is used. there is also a metal rattle sound almost like a heat shield that is loose. idk if that is part of the engine issue or not. but it only happens in winter or when temps fall below 60 degrees. kinda hard to hear on the vid but its there.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that has a knock or ticking in cold weather. The problem starts sometimes immediately after I start and other times it is only when I press on the gas in the cold mornings after a few min warm up. The noise goes away after 10 min. The question I am wondering is this:
1: could it be worn piston rings and the pistons are slapping the cylinder wall
2: is it an oil pump problem or a oil restriction issue
3: is it a valve guide issue
4: with the history of the 2.7 having exhaust manifold issues (poor manufacturing) could a cracked manifold be the issue
I change the oil myself, the oil filters have been OEM toyota, the noise has been going on since 60,000 miles, the truck is at 230,000 miles.
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So I drove my R kinda hard today (nothing more than i have in the past ) but i am now getting a knocking sound. It is faint when I am at idle and get a bit louder around 2-3k, then the exhaust over takes it. i checked and have oil.. but it is making the knock as if it were low.
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Alright so my car is popping up 4 codes.
P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
Vehicle: 1999.5 VW Jetta MK4 2.0L GLS (AEG)
The P0411 code I have had for a while now and I been lacking to fix it. I pretty sure I can get this fixed but it doesn't cause problems so I haven't paid to much attention to it. Anyways, the other day I noticed a puddle of coolant under my car so after checking it out, the water pump was leaking so I bought a new one and replaced the old one. However, during the replacement process I had to remove the timing belt and I accidentally turned the top pulley about 1 notch and didn't notice at the time. After putting everything back on, I turned my car on and the engine sound a bit weak so I ran for about 10 minutes around a couple blocks.
I instantly noticed that the car had no power and it took me a long time to speed up. When I got back, I plugged in my scanner and I only had the same P0411 code and nothing else. After carefully reviewing the camera I had recording during the water pump replacement, I notice I had turned the top pulley a bit so I went ahead and removed the timing belt, readjusted it, and it worked! I was excited that the car was working fine again. Soon after, I headed out to take a drive and noticed after 60MPH the car didn't have much power. The car still accelerates after 60MPH, but extremely slow. As soon as I arrived back home, I plugged in my scanner and that is where I seen the 4 codes. Now my question is what could have caused this? Could I have damaged something when I ran my car with the incorrect timing?
Things I have done so far:
-I checked to see if I left anything unplugged.
-I checked for any vacuum leaks
-I checked my oxygen sensors so see if I was running rich/lean
Things I will do after work today:
-Check the spark plugs
-Check spark plug cable for damage
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Driving home from work this evening and engine light lights up, also car started to idle very rough.... long story short got the car home and checked with vag com... 2 engine codes
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 86567 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2012.12.31
Time: 14:26:57
[Code] .....
After looking around online found out it could be a variety of reasons... gonna change spark plugs tomorrow hoping that's the problem... next cheapest fix would be the ignition coils... I'm just hoping its not internal, like piston or rings.
It's a 2007 Passat Wolfsburg 2.0T.... just went over the 53k mark.
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I now have a p0011 code on my 2001 passat 1.8t aug. this is a thinker because right before the test drive around the block i did the following
- coolant flush
-replaced the fuel filter
-cleaned the knn air filter
-rotated the tires
-oil change with new castrol 5w-40 syn. and 1/2 a bottle of lucas syn oil stabilizer.
With a few phone calls a possible cause is the timing chain skipped a tooth cause of the lucas being to thick, other cause could be the tensioner finally went out?
Right know the car car has a rough idle and seems to be finding idle , and a noise from the engine around 4000 rpm.
I am waiting for the engine to cool off before i open her up to check timing.. if the chain is off a a tooth what could be the cause?
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I have an '09 LS 460 AWD and there is a very unlike Lexus knocking sound at idle to maybe up to 20mph. best way I can describe is to imagine a diesel engine at idle, and dilute it substantially. subtle but clearly there. i read here in CL that could be due to valves or such, but dealer insists it is because of the intentionally designed "oversized fuel pump and fuel injector" and completely normal.
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1999.5 gls vr6 ... 113k on the clock
Timing chain hasn't been changed yet .. Has new spark plugs & wires ..
Water pump was replaced & pulleys look fine ..
No CEL .. Yes there's oil in it.
I get a knocking sound at idle and it has absolutely no rhyme or rhythm which makes me think it's not a valve or rod(wouldn't that make a constant noise?). The sound comes from the passenger side floor board. Only happens at idle, and if you rev the engine, it will go away. Even if you don't rev the engine some times it goes away then comes back. Sometimes I hear it when i pull up to a red light real loud & most of the time the engine purrs like a kitten. I even sat in the car and told my dad when it was making the knocking/ticking noise and he went all over the top and bottom end with a mechanical stethoscope & heard absolutely nothing. Am I missing something obvious?
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