I just turned on my car to move it out of the drive way and i noticed it starts rising when cold probably like 25-50 rpm then goes down, then back, and so on. i never noticed this before. is it a cold start assist or something like that ? i dont believe it does it when cold ( never noticed )...
View 11 RepliesIt showed up when the car wouldnt start. It would start but the rpms would just fall then shuts down. And now I have been having issues with the car not starting. At times it would start on the first try and others i have literally tried over 10 times and it wouldnt start... eventually it always starts but i dont want to get to the point where i get stranded.
View 8 RepliesA few days ago I posted a thread about losing power on a steep hill climb with a cold engine. I replaced the hybrid battery and all seemed well. A few days later, the problem occurred again--bummer. (The car has 120K miles and has spent most of its life in a hot and mountainous environment, and I knew the hybrid battery was failing, so that's not a problem.)
The car starts the climb OK, gains a few hundred feet in elevation, still has some charge left in the hybrid battery, then loses power, surges a couple of times, then comes to stop. The engine continues to run at idle and I get no warning or check engine lights. The "ready" light stays on. This time, the second time it happened, I turned off the car, turned it back on again immediately, and all was well. The remainder of the 1000' climb went fine. As did several other similar climbs on the same drive. Since then I've climbed this hill with a cold engine without a problem, so it's intermittent.
I hesitate to pay Toyota for a code scan since the check engine light did not come on. Should I do this anyway? My local auto parts store will scan for free, but I know that their scanner will not read Toyota-specific codes, just industry standards.
A few months ago, when I used the AC, it would kick in cold for a minute, then blow hot air for three minutes or so... and repeat. I checked into it, and the only error I got was the N42 resistor short to ground code. Looked it up, and it's supposed to be located here:
(#1 in the pic).
Funny thing... Cars with Climatronic don't have that resistor in that location (or at all from the searching I've done... and my blower works fine on all speeds). A week later (after a cold front), the AC worked flawlessly... Through SOWO. Wasn't until earlier last week that I noticed it crapped the bed again. The compressor isn't even kicking on... I haven't had the chance to scan the car again, but I'm going out on a limb to say it's the same error, to a resistor that isn't on our cars...
The compressor seems to work perfectly when it does work... So I'm thinking something's not kicking it on like it should. I'll be checking all fuses/relays tomorrow in the daylight.
I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
View 14 RepliesI just bought my frist VW, 99 Passat with V6 and tiptronic. Awesome vehicle! The car has 42,000 miles, but no records of any maintenance. What needs to be done at this interval - besides regular oil change, of course. I can also hear some valves going slightly "tik-tak" when cold, is that normal for the 2.8 or should I start worrying about adjustments. Having a bad crank on one of these before, or is it valves I hear? Also, should I change oil every 3,000 or 5,000 miles?
View 2 RepliesHave a 2001 CRV that is running really bad. It almost stalls when I put it in gear or even when the RPM's fall to idle. It is now throwing a p0172 code. I have a simple scan tool and verified the MAP reading and primary O2 voltages as suggested by the manual, both appeared to be normal. It seems all the symptoms point to valve clearance, however the valve were adjusted not 2000 miles ago by the dealer during the 150K service, and this issue has existed before and after that adjustment. I also cleaned the IAC screen with no changes.
View 5 RepliesI've noticed something new on my R32 recently. If I let the car sit in neutral with the motor on it's rpms will start to climb slowly. Normally it idles at around 800 rpm but when this happens it will climb to around 1200 rpm and stay there. Usually it takes a couple of minutes but you can slowly see the tach climbing. Also, you can feel the engine slowly revving as well (can hear it).
Now this doesn't happen all the time. I've only experienced it a few times in the past couple of weeks and only seems to happen if the car has been sitting idle with the motor on for at least 10 minutes (it happens when I've been at sonic waiting for an order). I can bring the rpms back to normal if I rev the car up to around 3.5k and let the motor settle back down to idle. What is causing this?
2003 Dodge Durango 4wd, 4.7 liter, 130,000 miles ... I'm having a problem with stalling. First started about 3 months ago, when I would come to a stop, the rpm's would fall off drastically, but would rebound right away. About a week later, it would actually stall, but I could start it without a problem. Took it to a local shop where they said my cam sensor needed replacement. That was done and it ran good for about 2 weeks when the same thing started again.
Took it back to the same shop and they told me that the cam sensor had gone bad or the sensor that had been put in was faulty. They replaced it at no charge to me, but they said that the crank sensor needed to be flashed and that had to be done by the dealer. So off to the dealer I went, and they told me that the crank sensor needed to be replaced not flashed. I had them do that and it ran good for about 2 weeks again and now it's starting to stall again.
Car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
When going at the desired speed (say 40mph) and there is lots of coasting room, I just let go off the accelerator and the car basically coasts. The engine RPM drops from 1600-1800 down to 900-1000 and it actually can coast a long way. Sometimes, I need to go faster (if I'm initially started at a slower speed) and when I press the gas pedal slightly, the tachometer shows the engine rpm jumps from the coasting 900-1000 to 1600-1800.
Is the tachometer (add on by ScanGuage) reporting it correctly? Is this a bad form of acceleration for the engine?
My parents are having trouble with there 2008 Santa fe 3.3 L. The transmission won't shift and the rpm's climb really high. Does that mean the transmission is going or is it something else.
View 15 RepliesI have a99 5.4 and its missing slightly when cold mostly. I'm thinking egr poss did tune up 7 mos ago so I don't think it's plugs or coil pacs seems to get better when it warms up...
View 11 RepliesI have a 2011 SE I4 with roughly 12k on it. Here's my problem: The past few days, I've been smelling something sweet coming out of my AC. I thought nothing much of it until today, when I noticed that my coolant/antifreeze reservoir level was slightly below the low "L" point with the engine cold. I am not sure if this means that I have a leak or something more serious? Is there something that I can do to try and figure out what the hell is wrong? My car is still under warranty, is this something that the dealership should look into? Will there be a cost for that?
View 7 RepliesJust had the unfortunate scene of seeing the engine light go on but I knew something has been up for a couple weeks just couldn't figure it out but today when I came to a stop my car starts revving slightly without me doing anything and when in park the rpms just increase slightly not alot.
View 6 RepliesI recently acquired a 1.8t auto Wagon from a friend who passed away, I dont wanna sell it, so I figured why not keep it. So here's my question. On cold starts the RPM's kick up above 1K and then drop to the proper idle speed. The engine purrs nicely, but I have noticed that it sounds beefy inside the cabin during warm up. I can feel the light vibrations on the steering wheel. After I start driving the car warms up and everything seems normal. It just sounds like a fan or blower motor has come on with the engine. No ticking or anything like that. Is this normal?
View 5 RepliesIn the first two years of ownership of my Passat, when I would turn the car on during cold days, the rpms would stay at 1500 for a quick 20 seconds until the car got a bit warm and then would drop down to about 800. Recently, when I turn the car on cold days, the rpms drop directly to 900 and below.
View 17 RepliesI've been dealing with this for some time now because it hasn't seemed to affect my performance when I am getting on it, but when I am at idle the rpms will surge ever so slightly and i can watch the needle on my boost gauge bouncing up and down. i have a WINtake on the car and it started ever since i installed that. I am wondering what this could be. I've already taken the whole intake out and reinstalled thinking i had a leak somewhere. even tried swapping my maf with a known good one off the lot on a brand new R.
I read somewhere that someone had their maf in backwards. could this be the issue? I don't have any power loss that I am aware of. in fact, if its down on power now, i would have a hard time believing that it could be much faster with what i have done to it. this idle surge will get worse when i have my ac on also. someone make me realize that I am missing something stupid and simple here so i can have a normal idle again. I am half tempted to put my stock intake back on to see but i no longer have the turbo inlet plastic pipe to test it with.
I drove my daughter's Dodge Neon last night and found that when I'm on the highway, the RPM goes up slightly every few seconds. I had about 30 minutes of driving until I was home so I tried to figure out if my speed had anything to do with it.
It doesn't happen when I decelerate or am at an idle. When I'm on a flat stretch of highway and using the gas pedal, the RPMs will increase. I didn't notice the feel of the engine changing, I heard the engine speed up a bit.
What kind of problem is this? The car has 109,000 miles on it.
I have a 2002 F150 5.4 2 valve. only when the engine is cold, everyone once in a while the engine will surge up and down about 2-300 RPMs for about 10 seconds. also right when I put it in drive it will surge. I was thinking about pulling off the trottle body and cleaning it.
View 3 RepliesI've a 01 elantra its a 2 litre tubro diesel. There is no power in the engine even to climb a small hill...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Taurus V6 DOHC w/170K miles. When engine heats up, oil pressure light comes on, but only when RPM fall below 1500 or at idle. There is a burnt smell sometimes after driving the car. I do not see froth or coolant in the oil. Car burns a little oil, but no more than it has been for the last 50K miles. Just had oil and filter changed 300 miles ago; I was using 10W-30 but I believe the mechanic used 5W-30. (Also, if I drive more than 45 minutes, the "low coolant" light comes on-- however, the engine is not overheating, and the radiator/reservoir are full.) What part(s) I should order first? Oil pressure sensor? Oil pump? (If at all possible, I need to repair myself, as I simply cannot afford my mechanic's hourly rates right now.)
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