My "99 1.8T Passat has 92K miles. The past few weeks, the check engine light started to come on and I need to refill at least a liter of oil since the dipstick is showing I am low on it. What the problem is? Will it be an expensive fix? The car is still running great...just using up a lot of oil.
View 1 RepliesI just bought 2003 king ranch with a 5.4 it started burning coolant and the heat was coming on then while the engine was at operating temp would blow cold air. Then the temp gauge would start to rise,once it got to the top the heat would start to come on and the temp gauge would then go down to normal.I started by changing the thermostat which didn't work.
Then i figured it was air in the system I kept burping the truck at idle but it never worked, it kept burping while driving all the coolant out that i put in back out finally i took that cap off the one that clicks when you tighten it and replaced it with a cap that tightens down all the way and doesn't click. Every morning I check the reservoir fill it up to the proper level and so far so good.
Having burning oil smell coming from the V6. Took it to the dealership and they tole me it has an oil leak on the the header then it burns off. It seems to get much worse when the RPM's are some what high. Only 70,000 miles too. Guess its getting to stay that way for a while.
View 9 RepliesWhen stopped at lights I start to smell burning oil coming from the vents when I have the heat on. It only happens every now and then and only when you are stopped at a light. I tried letting the engine idle after driving once and I can't smell it when i open the hood. I do synthetic oil changes every 5,000 since the car was new. I don't know what it could be? My last oil change was about 2,000 miles ago so I can't see it being burn off from the last change still.
View 4 RepliesI can smell burning oil and when stopped see oil smoke coming from the right front area. Theres absolutely no fluid on the ground ever even after sitting for days. I cant visually see any oil leak on the engine but I cant see the back. Im guessing its a valve cover leaking just enough on top of the exhaust on that side. Ive seen the gasket/plug seal set from $25 to $80. Some include the timing chain area gaskets/seals. Is that necessary to change at same time? Also, is there a gasket where the intake manifold and valve cover meet needing changed along with?
2004 Passat 2.8l V6 GLX
Took about a 200 mile trip this weekend, stopped at a rest area about halfway through and smelled burnt carbon, smelled like a burnt clutch almost. It was very strong and there was smoke coming from the engine. It wasn't a lot but it was cause for concern. I checked the oil, last oil change about 1500 miles ago but no problems there, temp gauge was in the middle. Let the car sit for a 10 mins or so and then headed of again. When I got home that night, couldn't smell it and there was no smoke. Car has 42K ... Also, I got an airbag fault light about 30 mins from my house.
View 8 RepliesI was driving around running errands when my AC stopped blowing cool air, a funny kind of "metallic" burning smell was coming from the engine, and there was a slight knocking noise that was apparently coming from the engine and would go faster as I accelerated.
My car is still under warranty so I know stuff will be covered. My question is : what the heck is going on with my Santa Fe? I need to know whether I should call into work or drive it anyways.
I've got an 08 Gen II with 173k miles on it. The last few days of coming up the huge hill in front of our house I've noticed a burning smell, link burnt coolant.
So today I actually popped the hood to investigate and found a small tuff of smoke coming from the back of the engine.
After climbing underneath I found a leak of some sort of brown/cream fluid.. Kinda scary color. Anyways it seems when put a significant load on the car going up a hill it sprays this fluid on the exhaust, thus the burning smell..
Oil is clean on the stick and under the cap.
the car's battery light still has not shut off and now the defrost button stays on for about one second. The engine bay sometimes smells of something burning, too.
No CEL, so what's going on here?
I have an 04 2.8 v6 5spd. I have recently began smelling oil burning as in leaking on exhaust or something. There is no visible oil under the car, on the engine and no oil at all on ground even with car parked for days. It seems to be from the backside of the engine on passenger side. I am thinking a leaky valve cover gasket. I know a drop of oil will burn and smell strongly. I still want to fix it though. Should I just get a valve cover gasket kit and replace them. Its very hard to see back there.
View 7 RepliesSo I have 69,500 miles on my car. I leave it parked on a small hill for 3 days and when I turn it on after 3 days of sitting it sounds like it is going to stall and the check engine light blinks. I roll it to the bottom of the hill and turn it on and the light doesn't blink but just stays on. On top of this, randomly but always after stopping when driving i smell a really strong burning oil smell. The smell is so bad i have to open the windows.
I don't think it has anything to do with the CEL but it has been happening for some time. It only smells after you have been driving (mostly Highway) and then stop. It wont happened if your in traffic or driving around town, you have to be on the highway then get off and stop and you smell it. It can happen once a month or twice a week, it is completely random.
I have a 2000 vw 2.8 v6.
I got it back in February and it ran great up until now. A couple months ago while driving home my cel started flashing and right when the light came on I could immediately feel an immense loss in power and when I got to a red light it would shake like mofo. Gettin up to speed was suddenly a huge problem and the car would make a strange noise and I could smell a strong odor of gas and slight oil. I have a valve cover gasket leak that I paid 300 bucks to replace but after a week I realized it's still leaking oil so that 300 bucks just went out the window. The sluggish performance and cel went away the next time I drove the car and it ran awesome for over a month till one day while I was on my way home from grabbing some lunch it all of a sudden started happening again. Sluggish performance, smell of gas and slight oil, wouldn't get up to speed.
I brought it to my local vw dealership to have it looked at yesterday figuring that they'd be able to tell me exactly what was going wrong. I got a call early this morning saying that the oil leak in my valve covers are causing my coil pack to short out and foul my plugs and wires and then told me it was going to cost 1,700 bucks with all the parts and labor. I'm not very mechanically inclined when it comes to vehicles so it's not like I can do the work myself but my main question is, how can the oil cause the coil pack to short out seeing that oil is not conductive and some cars actually use oil to cool the packs down. Is that a legitimate diagnosis or is the dealership mechanic Actually right or is he just getting creative trying to squeeze some money out of me.
My wife was driving the car on the freeway and flames started coming out of the hood/vents/etc. We just picked the car up from service on Friday...Today is Monday. Whats the standard protocol for a car that's is still under warranty that goes up in flames?
View 24 RepliesAfter the -20 winter my 2009 Accent started burning oil at startup and after hard right turns. It was burning about 1 quart of oil per 500 miles. No codes ever appeared. I assumed that it was a pretty classic case of broken valve stem seals. Upon taking the valve cover off I found that there are two oil galleys leading back to the oil pan. One on the passenger side of the engine was exposed and had a large carbon deposit on the valve cover just above it indicating all the crankcase vapors were coming through that gallery and condensing. The galley was partially plugged. The other galley on the left side below the camshaft was completely plugged. Some cleaning first with a loop of welding wire and cleaning out the PCV chamber which was filled with oil has cleared up the problem. I followed with an oil change and then another change at 500 miles. I've used no oil in 1200 miles since the last change.
View 5 RepliesMy 2007 Saturn Vue Hybrid died on Sunday while driving down the highway. The car has 101,500 miles and a brand new (November) battery. It was -5 degrees out at the time. Different engine lights started coming on, one at a time (the check engine light, the traction control light, the oil change light, then the seatbelt light) and then all of a sudden the entire dashboard went dark and the driving lights went out (it was close to sunset so we had the lights on). My fiance barely managed to steer the car over to the shoulder before it completely died. The hazard lights wouldn't even worked. My mechanic got it jump started yesterday and was able to drive it and said no engine lights are on, and everything looks fine. He does not think it was the alternator. What this could be?
View 8 RepliesI purchased a 2001 Jetta and it ran alright for a few days then all these problems started arising. The engine would not idle correctly and then a week later my EPC light started coming on. After all of that I have replaced the Throttle body ( Bosch) the MAF ( after market) and gas pedal ( after market). It ran fine for a day and then same issues. I had a mechanic relearn the throttle which had the Engine light go away for about a day. Now all the issues have came back. Here are the main problems.
1. Randomly lose throttle ( up hill, down hill, highway does not matter)
2. I randomly get stuck in park and cannot shift at all.
This is extremely troublesome since every time I lose throttle i have to put the car in park, shut her off and turn her back on to be able to drive. I keep getting the Throttle and MAF codes. I also checked on the recalled parts and they have already been replaced. I have read many reasons as to what would cause this but even the mechanic doesn't even know and I cant pay for him to check the electric. Also when driving if it is raining my car will not start or when it does it chugs. I was running through a puddle and after the water splashed the car basically would no longer run.
I have a 2004 Toyota Corolla, with about 175,000 miles, and recently the heating system has been acting up. About three weeks ago the heat started to be slow coming, even when the engine was warm, but after a bit of driving it would kick in. The blower would work the whole time, but it would blow cold, instead of hot. However, no even that amount of heat has subsided, and the blower only blows cold air. On top of that, within the last week or so the engine has begun to almost overheat early in driving, but settles down a bit after driving a few miles. What might be happening?
View 7 RepliesOne night i was driving fast and when i let off the gas at about 85 mph my engine started to do a bad tug...(kinda like pushing hard on the brakes just to annoy passengers...) but it wasnt my brakes!!
View 2 RepliesI turned on my AC in my 94 ford f250 and it made a squealing noise then I started to smell smoke or more like electrical burning. I turned off the AC and the squealing and burning stopped. I found that the compressor was the problem and after pulling the pulley and clutch assembly off I found that the coil had melted or got really really hot and smelled lie it had burned. My pulley and surpentine belt were still spinning fine so what happened? My AC had worked fine a few weeks before this.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Prius, I had an accident and after it was fixed the check engine light started coming on. It would go off after a couple of days. The first time I took it to Autozone and the codes were P3150 & P3130, but the next day the check engine light went off. A couple of days later the light came back on....went back off....next week it stalled on the highway, but it started back up, now the codes it's reading are P1636 and P3002. It still starts up and will drive, but I'm afraid to drive it.
View 2 RepliesSo I was driving home from when my engine started to sputter once it hit 4000 rpm and the CEL came on so I figured it was my plugs and coils, I changed all of those and unplugged my battery to get the CEL to go away, now all of a sudden my computer is crazy, I have a lot of indicators and my gears indicators are all highlighted, when I start the car and put in it gear is shifts really hard, I just don't know what to do!
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