Passat (B5) :: Engine Check Light On And Throttle Start Surging - Water In Tank?
Jul 29, 2007
Coming back from Busch Gardens today. Filled up at a Shell. Got on the road and within minutes got a check engine light and the throttle started surging like when you have water in the tank (know from past experience-don't ask). Is the check engine light what would come on if I had water in the tank?
I was able to make it home after adding one bottle of dry-gas but the car is still doing it...major loss of power during mid-level throttle. I was able to keep the engine light from coming on if I was very careful with the throttle and kept the revs around 3K or higher.
Hate to take it to the stealership if not necessary. Burned 1/4 tank of gas on the way home. Should I add a second bottle of dry-gas and top off the tank with fresh gas before taking it in? Don't want to damage injectors or?
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So we were getting the annoying check engine light pretty religiously when we got to a half tank or less of fuel. In the trouble shooting I guess maybe there was a bad ground or something that required a little work then they told us the the intake flap motor was bad. Or at least was not returning the correct values.
So they ordered a new one and replaced it on Friday. I was looking at the paperwork, seemed like a fun job, pull the intake manifold, replace the part, put back together.
In the end, the experience with Emich VW in Denver was great. The service writer was awesome and you can even pick a tech to work on your car. I think that's a fine idea.
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The car is great. Filled up with first tank of diesel last Sunday. About 100 miles into a long ride east, the CEL came on without explanation. I double-checked the gas cap, and it had been replaced properly.
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My mechanic tells me I need the intake manifold gasket replaced (check engine light on, engine surging, running very rough). How much damage can I do to the car by doing this repair myself and screwing it up? I've done lots of repairs on my car before -- brake pads, rotors, replace oil pan. I also have a copy of the manufacturer's shop manual.
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When I turned on my 2005 Passat V6 this morning, it idled very rough and the check engine light came on. Kind of sounded like a misfire. After about a minute or so, the engine ran as it always has....normal. Smooth as ever. Well I had it scanned at AZ and they said it was in fact a misfire from two of the cylinders. So then I called my local VW service department and the guy there gave me a no nonsense over the phone diagnosis, he told me that he owns a V6 Passat and he encountered the same issue on several occasions when the outside temperature drops precipitously over night. He stated that the misfire is due to condensation in the ignition/coil area. He stated that it is in fact a very common problem and that I would be fine and that the light would go away on it's own. The car is running fine. Should I really worry?
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My 1999 VW Passat has a check engine P0411, P0422, so I looked for any damaged vacuum lines and found one that was all melted coming out of the blue vacuum reservoir tank in the front left lower bumper area. The line was broken off and I cannot figure out where this line is supposed to go.
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My wife drives a 2004 passat 4 motion 1.8 T that for a couple of days has been acting up. By acting up I mean it will turn over but won't start. When this happens and after letting the key out of the start position, the epc and cel light will stay on. After letting it sit for a while it will start.
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My recently acquired '07 SE V6 has a little quirk when I drive it in the morning. Until it warms up completely, it seems to have a little surge while driving under light throttle. Tach doesn't jumo, and there is no CEL. Tranny was just flushed and serviced also. Once the car is at normal operating temp, all is well. I've searched the archives, and there are some suggestions about having a bad TPS, but my rpm fluctuations aren't that bad, and like I said, don't make the tach move. It also will sometimes hesitate just a hair when taking off for the first time after starting.
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Naturally, the dealer service close to me and my regular repair shop are both closed today, so my mind is racing. My check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and I have been waiting for my guy to get back for it's full 80+K workup/service. That was to be right away.
This morning on my 5 mile trip to work after my car sitting for a day, the check engine light came on as usual (with no seeming weird behavior) - but as I was going through some S-curves, the EPC light came on and it felt as if the engine was throttling down, not knowing how to shift, something.
I wasn't far from my parking lot so I drove on here, parked nose out and popped the hood. Nothing visible (not that there would be necessarily) but weird exhaust smell.
I just went back out after lunch and it cranked for a good 20+ seconds over three start attempts before it finally did. Tach went all low and jiggly before kicking in and revving steadily at 1K. However, white puffs of smoke began coming out the exhaust - weird smell (e.g., unburnt fuel perhaps...)
I'm only in a mild panic as I'll likely have to have this towed in and I don't have a clue what I'm facing. I get conflicting tales online as to what it might be but I'd love to impose on your brains if you have some insight to share. I've read about coil packs, throttle bodies, and more.
The only mechanical issue I've had with this engine was that I had the intake manifold assembly replaced right after my warranty went out. Had the throttle body cleaned then, too. Nothing since other than regular services according to vw standards.
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I installed my i-throttle but I might have done some steps wrong don't remember exactly but now my check engine light is on.I throttle works fine. Is there a way to fix this and make the check engine go.
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I have a 1998 Toyota Rav 4 with apporximately 140,000 miles. When I fill the gas tank the check engine light comes on, the engine runs rough (like a misfire). Diagnostic code comes back a "lean mixture,bank 1". When the tank reaches approximately 3/4 of a tank the light goes out and the engine runs smooth and fine. Then, when the tank reaches just belwo hal a tank the light once again comes on and starts running rough again. Have drained the tank, used dry gas, Startron to counter the ethonal etc. Nothing seems to work.
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I loaned my car to a friend for 2 days. While driving, she allowed it to run out of gas. The check engine light came on as soon as gas was put into the tank and has never gone off. I now need to get inspected, but afraid it will not pass. Someone said to put "Garanteed To Pass" in the gas tank. I have never had any problems with this car. I am the original owner, and I keep the oil changed and the filter clean. The car runs perfectly with 120K miles! What should I do?
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I have a '01 7.3 Excursion 2WD. 220,000 miles. It has a 4" exhaust, K&N filter and Edge Reprogrammer set on emission illegal. It gets the best fuel economy and moves out very well for 8000 lbs. Recently, I started to feel a surge while making light throttle acceleration. For example, round a corner at 35 and try to gently resume the 45 Speed limit. It begins to accelerate and then cuts out or surges, sometimes several times. If I lay into it, it responds fine. I have serviced the air filter, the fuel filter, use synthetic Amsoil. I did notice a slight improvement after the service. Less frequent cutting out or surging. I also was in an area where Bio diesel is readily available. I added almost a full tank of B10 Bio and it seemed to work. Changed the fuel filter just after.
It has been cold for NC. This morning it was +14 when I started the truck. It seemed to finally catch on maybe 2 cylinders with lots o' white/ blue smoke. It cleared out in a few minutes and seemed to be hitting on all 8, or at least 7. Once it warmed up, it's fine. But I had the codes p0672, p0674, p0676, p0678. My question is: Is there a common thread in the fact that it appears that I lost 4 glow plugs on the same bank?
One arm chair quarter back's response to the surging, is that the under valve cover injector wiring harness may be breaking down, especially since the truck has 220,000 and the valve covers have never been off. I have a fresh turbo with the good wheel sitting ready. I have just been too lazy to swap it out. Would a fresh set of injectors be a wise choice, when I swap over?
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Car dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
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I have 2007 explorer 4.6 v8. The check engine light is on, and i can only fill the gas tank about 3/4 full, after moving the gas nozzle all around and taking about 15 minutes. I read a few different things while searching. Like vapor canister need to be replaced. or the vent hose needs to be replaced.
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I have a 2014 camry SE 2.5 with 66.000 miles on it and been having issues since the warranty expired..... What it could be? Cleaned the maf sensor and still no luck and every time i fill the gas tank it won't start takes a while.
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2012 Prius Gen III 38,000 miles, check engine light came on. Drove car to dealer and they came up with error code 0456. The explained that a rodent (I live in a rural area) chewed on a hose which is causing a leak like a bad fuel cap.
To solve this problem they recommend that the entire gas tank needs to be replaced. Does this seem reasonable? It seems to me they are saying that the chewed hose can not be replaced.
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My check engine light came on the other day and the code stated the the "throttle position is open" so after researching and everyone telling me that i need to change the sensor. I did everything after was fine running better but today only after 3 days replacing it i get the same problems. car has no get up and go hardly can push to 20 mph and when in idle i press the break it starts to bog down and almost want to shut off! and can be really loud...
Santa fe 05' 3.5L ....
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I brought my Prius, 128,000 miles, into the dealer with the check engine light on. Runs fine, and checked the gas cap. Toyota dealer said they need to replace 4 fuel injectors, replace oxygen sensor, and clean the throttle body. Check engine light needs to be off so I can pass emission test.
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I have a 2002 F250 4x4 Powerstroke with Automatic. I have been having off and on issues for months with the throttle going dead. This only happens when I start it, if it works when started it will continue working until a different start session.
I have replaced the pedal several times before learning how to check its output with a meter and am quite sure that is not my issue at this time. However, when the pedal is depressed the check engine light lites up and nothing happens.
I am thinking it must be the computer itself, but was told there is another sensor or module under the hood that could cause the issue also which is several hundred dollars to replace as would be the computer.
Is there a way to test the computer, and what is this other module/sensor if it exists that could be the issue? Unhooking and rehooking the battery to reset the computer is no longer working to buy me a few more weeks, is there a simple way to reset the computer to try?
I love this truck when the throttle works but I am getting tired of paying on a truck while having to borrow a vehicle to drive to work.
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My 2003 Chevy Imapala went over some large water puddles and shortly after a check engine light came out. My local auto store did a check and stated there is a possible problem with a senor. If the senor got wet, could it even give the computer a good reading? Would it probably give a totally different reading once it dries?
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