Passat (B5) :: Electrical Malfunction - Can't Lock The Door
Oct 5, 2006
i have a problem with my passat.everything was perfect with my alarm and my doors.
one time i went to my car, start my engine, and then this BEEP BEEP BEEP was the whole time, and first i didn't know what that is. and then i turned on my headlight on and the notice god more and it did BEEEEEEEEEEP. the light inside my car did not turn off. after few minutes looking around, i recognized that my car things that i didn't closed my door, but i did. and my alarm doesn't work too, because it things my door is not closed, and it doesn't want to lock it!! what should i do? My car things that my car is open the whole time.
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I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
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I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
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Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
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So, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
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I was having intermittent problems with my key fob. I replaced several times, but still had problems with it not working. (A real joy when the alarm is armed). Recently, the driver's door switch (lock/unlock) failed completely. All of a sudden, the key fob is working perfectly (so far) again. Could the failing switch have been causing the fob malfunction all along? I'd like to use the fob, but I'm not fond of the part where the car is alarmed and it won't disengage.
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The power door lock switches, on both driver and passenger doors, only functions to lock the door but will not unlock. When either switch is depressed to lock, both function with no problem. But when depressing either side button to unlock, there is absolutely no activity at all. Like there is no current reaching either one. This happened once about a week ago, but my son came along and just kept pressing the passenger side button and it came back to life after 5 or 6 tries. But now the same problem has recurred and it will not resolve.
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2016 push button start, need to confirm something? It's cold up here in these parts this time of year and I have been letting my car run for a few minutes when it's frosted over in the morning. The issue I'm having is that I start the car and go back into the house. When I come back out to get in, The driver's door is unlocked but the rest of the doors are not. When I press the unlock button on the key fob, nothing happens. Is this how it's supposed to work or do I have an issue?
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I have a 2001 Prius. Well, it looks like the electrical door lock on my driver door is no longer working. I can lock/unlock it manually with the key, but the clicker doesn't work on it at all. I was having trouble with the front passenger door locking, but discovered that clicking twice would get it to lock. Now, that door is working just fine, but the driver door isn't responding at all (the lights don't even flash). All the other doors lock/unlock fine, so it's not the clicker.
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I was driving my '02 Passat 1.8T home yesterday, and I noticed the steering wheel controls for the sound system weren't working. I thought nothing of it, believing that it was a fuse. I also noticed the my radar detector wasn't on, but was plugged in. So the cig lighter wasn't working either. Hmm. I got home, and pulled into my driveway, and then noticed that the HomeLink garage door opener wasn't functioning either. It was late so I just left the car outside for the night, planning to work on it the next day. Today, I went to go get my friend (I didn't have time to check on the problem), and when I honked for him to come outside, the HORN wouldn't work. At that point, I went home, popped open the fuse box, and checked all the corresponding fuses. And whaddaya know, all the fuses are fine. Yet, still, nothing work.
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I have a 2000 f250 super duty. Right now the only problems with it are:
1: When i press the door lock switch the passenger door lock will click and come down about half way but the door still is unlocked. in order to lock it, you have to press the latch down by hand.
2: My key won't unlock or lock the driver's side door from the outside, however it works to start the truck and open the passenger door.
3: When i bought the truck the previous owner game me a handheld wireless unlock and lock button. The little black thing with an alarm button, and it doesn't work either, i replaced the batteries and still nothing. So what would be the solution to fixing all of this?
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Repaired my locks on my F350. Had the motor reversed. Before I figured that out I thought I needed to change the wires in the plug. Changed them and it didn't work, put them back and now the switch on that door does not work for the lock; however, all other switches work. What do I need to fix?
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My door will not lock..when you hit the remote, the door button or try to push it down..it goes down a little and there is resistance and then it comes right back up. If I use the key it will lock easily, but once you turn the key to get it out it comes right back up. I can hear the motor working, but it feels like there is something stopping it from going all the way down.
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The following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
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I have a 2009 Camry Hybrid. Both driver side door locks work/fail intermittently. This sometimes does/doesn't happen when i use the inside door panel button, outside door button, outside hand sensor when i grab the door latch, remote control buttons, gear shift . . . etc. I see the driver side locks open/close or not move while I see the passenger side doors lock/unlock correctly.
For some reason, it seems to be a bit better when the weather gets warmer around hear in the northeast. I thought it might have something to do with the integration relay. But I'm not exactly sure where it is. I looked under the dashboard, too many wires!. On the drivers side I have located the fuse box, unplugged most of the wires, plugged them back in and it seemed to work only for a day or two, but the temperature also warmed up on those days.
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My power door lock switch in the drivers door stopped working (not the actuator problem, but the actual switch would unlock, but not lock the doors)
I started to research if it could just be simple corrosion and decided to spray the contacts with CRC electronics cleaner. It completely fixed it.
Next, my parking brake light sensor stopped working so I did the same and it fixed it.
I began to research cleaning contacts and found a number of people in the automotive forums who basically spray contact cleaner on every electrical connection they ever touch.
I will do this in the future. The only part I wonder about is if there is something better to spray on them to prevent further corrosion in the future. I used dielectric grease but it would be nice to just spray the thing down. However, CRC does say their electronic cleaner prevent future corrosion.
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I am trying to hook up my power door locks to my command start. I am having trouble getting it to work. Ive tried a number of relay diagrams from the12volt.com. I've tried actuators/reverse polarity and it blows both my factory door lock fuse and the fuse I have supplied to the relays. Ive also tried 5 wire alternating 12 volt positive door locks, and 3 wire positive door lock combinations. Both of these combinations the relays click back and forth fine with the actuators unhooked, when I connect the actuators the doors unlock with the factory switch but when I unlock with my remote it blows the fuse. How to properly connect the actuators?
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I have a 2005 excursion with about 112,000 miles and last week all 5 doors decided to stop working on me when trying to lock or unlock with the remote or the door switch. I do hear a sound like something is happening just right of the fuse box. I did a little research and found that this is a wide spread problem. I did order 4 of the 5 actuators and I replaced the drivers door but nothing yet. Do they all have to be replaced in order to work? Or is it most likely something else causing this? Just trying to figure it out before I install the other actuators or take it in to a shop.
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My 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
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I've been having an intermittent problem starting our 2007 Passat 2.0T. Sometimes when I insert the key fob into its slot the car starts then stalls immediately. The steering wheel icon is displayed and the MFD says "Steering column lock malfunction". The car eventually starts after several attempts but I'm wondering what's causing the problem
My wife are both guilty of two things that I've read in the manual and I'm thinking that may have contributed or is causing the problem. We both insert the key and push it in to start the car in one motion. The book says to do it in three motions. We also do not depress the brake pedal when starting the car.
Needless to say we are not going to that anymore. If I may have done damage to the steering column and its associated parts?
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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