Passat (B5) :: EPC And Caution Signs Displayed When Rev High / Does Not Accelerate Past 80 Mph
Jan 14, 2010
My car is a 2005 1.8T Passat; About two weeks after replacing a burnt spark plug coil the vehicle started displaying EPC and a caution sign embedded in a circled arrow, whenever this happens i discover the vehicle does not accelerate past 80 mph even when the throttle pedal is pressed to the extreme; I replaced the engine speed sensor all to no avail, a used throttle body also behaved same way, what is responsible for this and how to rectify the problem?
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As I was getting on the highway today, I heard a loud warning bell and my MFD displayed "Oil Pressure High. ENGINE OFF!". It lasted all of 5 seconds and then disappeared. Car seemed fine (other than the usual ticks and annoyances).
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I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback (automatic) that has 176,779miles on it. I live in San Francisco and only drive the car occasionally every 2-3 weekends out of the city. Recently within the past month I have noticed that after turning on my car and once it is in drive for the first 10-15 minutes it has a hard time getting past 20 mph. When I put the foot on the accelerator to go past 20mph the rpm goes way up to 4, 5 or 6. Once it gets past this then car is smooth and I have no problems. This problem seems to go away within 10-15 minutes of driving or if I turn my car off and then on again it seems to go away. I called my mechanic and they said it could be that the transmission fluid is low. I checked the level and it is perfectly normal.
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1994 E350 Club Wagon 351w, E4OD Transmission. New MLPS, New VSS, New TPS, New Fluid, New Filter, 5 year old Torque Converter.
The Transmission dribbled a little bit from the front pump seal a couple weeks ago, I checked the level, it was a bit low. Topped it off with Lucas, the dribble stopped. I drove it successfully for another week. I took it on a 10 mile trip, and 5 miles in, it started slipping above, 35mph, I let off the accelerator, and the transmission "Caught up" and I drove 35mph the rest of the trip. I let it sit over night.
The next morning it acted as if nothing were wrong. I drove it some more, and the same thing happened. I parked it, and revved the engine up a bit, and it tried to MOVE in park, I put it in neutral and revved the engine, and it lurched as if it were still in 1rst gear.
This time I let it sit for 24 hours, and after work I successfully put 20 miles on it without missing a beat. It was shifting right, good solid connection between the gas pedal and the road, and I thought the problem was fixed, as the temperature the day before was -20, and it warmed up outside to 30 degrees above.
I parked it for a couple hours and went to go do the errands, and it wouldn't make it above 15mph. It even struggled to do that much. I put it in reverse, and it held great, no slipping at all.
Let it sit until the next morning, and it was better. I pulled the Codes, and it gives me a 63(7) TOT High, and a 62(9) Torque Converter Clutch. It may or may not be relative, but Cruise hasn't worked in about 6 months either. What am I missing here? What could possibly causing this trouble? Fluid is up and new.
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I have a 1992 ford mustang 4 cylinder,its messed up bad.my car is shaking bad all the time and will not go faster than 40mph.what is wrong??
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93 Mercury Cougar 3.8L V6 with just over 83,000 miles
l've been trying to figure out this issue for ages, but can't seem to find the root of the issue. When driving and accelerating to 40mph, the rpms drop and GET STUCK at exactly 1000rpm. Forcing the accelerator down makes the engine bog and sputter and not go any faster. No check engine lights whatsoever.
The idle is very rough and low in park (700rpm compared to the regular 900) and very low in drive (500 compared to 650-750). When stopped in traffic for a while, it begins to shudder and shake like it wants to stall right there. Now let me run down the extensive list of parts l've thrown at it, bringing only temporary results:
Replaced catalytic converter
Replaced IAC valve
Replaced O2 sensors
Rebuilt transmission (runs great, so l've ruled that out)
Replaced 1fuel injector
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced motor mounts
Cleaned throttle body extensively
I asked a guy at a Firestone and he said that l needed a valve job. Asked another guy at another place, he said l needed a fuel system cleaning. Asked another guy under a tree, said l needed a new speed sensor. What could be the root issue? l was thinking carbon build up over 22 years maybe? Almost all 83k of those miles have been city miles...
This car is my baby, all l want is for it to be able to handle highway speeds without a hiccup. l'm keeping it and plan to see 100k hit the odometer and many more miles!
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Okay I have a 2001 Vw Jetta 1.8t Wolfsberg.
I have done a few mods:
- Oil catch can
- Boost gauge
- New turbo (5000 miles old)
- Brake booster mod
- PCV system fixed and some hose deletes (that make the intake manifold have one line off of it rather than two)
- Timing belt/ pulleys
- Accessory belt / pulley
- A few other things but nothing to cause this
The car will do this randomly. And I mean once every two weeks of that. I will go to accelerate and the boost gauge says the "boost" is at zero and no matter how much I give it gas, it won't go past zero and stutters. But it stops almost as fast as it starts. I don't get it...
My catch can has 3/4" line to about 1/2" or so, that meets the oil catch can. (Ebay with the blue hose.) I have new plugs, all new (dealership recommended) lubes, all kinds of new small odds and ends. But it's never done this before. (3rd time now in a month..)
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It's a 2004 4wd 4.6 v8 with 140,000 miles. My wife was driving around town today and had to park it at her daughter's house because even if you floor it,the engine will only rev to about 1500-1800 rpm's and idles really low,maybe 600 rpm. she said right before it started running bad,there was a bad smell. Also there is a humming/rattling noise that sounds like it's coming from the upper intake/throttle body area. I went and looked at it,tried to pull codes.
The check engine light isn't on and there are no codes stored in the computer. A couple of days ago,there was code po420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)and the check engine light was on. Engine was running fine. I cleared the code,and it never came back. I am not sure this is related,just trying to give all info possible.
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I'm driving a 97 Accord SE and it's suffering from a few issues that have me worried to say the least. For one, when I filled the radiator with water I noticed that it was cloudy/oily. Something was definitely in there with the water.
Two, I foolishly drove it thinking it would be fine. After 50 feet or so however problems started happening. I couldn't accelerate past 20mph. If I tried by putting my foot down on the gas nothing would happen but the RPMs going up. Each time I started the car I could go a little ways before pushing on the gas did nothing. Then I would have to restart the car in order to get anywhere with it.
Some background, I got my oil changed today after going about 1000 miles over when it should have been changed. Also, when it was scanned in the past the error code 0420 showed up. That has something to do with either the catalytic converter running rich or the O2 sensors above and below it might be broken.
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I have a 2002 Chevy Impala driving it in the city of Chicago. It's recently had the oil changed, and the transmission fluid flushed and filter replaced. This car was mine before I went off to school, and I meticulously maintained it for three years, and then my step sister inherited it. She drove it for two years, and then it sat in the driveway for a year and a half. It's got about 175,000 miles on it.
Problem: Every time I start to accelerate past 25mph and get around 2000rpms, the car starts to give out, sputter and jerk. It starts to drop off right when it should be shifting to second gear. When on the highway, even if I floor the gas peddle, it won't accelerate normally, but instead just crawls slowly to higher speeds.
It will eventually reach the higher speeds, but it takes about 5-10 minutes for it climb up from 25mph. I don't know enough about this level of car trouble to make a diagnosis myself, and would like an estimate of the cost for repairs. Also the car is getting around 19mpg on the highway, which I need to improve if I'm going to survive the $4.50/gal of Chicago gas. I'm hoping that fixing this problem will take care of that as well.
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I have a 2003 Mach 1 Mustang, ( 4.6 DOHC 32 Valve)....
When I start my car in the morning. Idling the car sounds normal and perfect with my SLP exhaust. But when I start to go on my merry way, when I’m in 1st and 2nd gear and I accelerate past about 2.8K rpm's. I hear a really quite noticeable pingy/tingy sounds from my engine (Yes sounding like that annoying AMMCO commercial with people making noises). This will continue for a little while when i get into my normal running temperature, the sound isn’t as "Loud" so to say but still present.
I can comfortably say that there is nothing loose within the engine compartment. My spark plugs are tightened to the proper amount. I experience no performance lost as well. This has just been a nuisance since I have purchased the car, it currently has almost 60k mileage and has followed the proper maintenance.
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I started noticing a burning oil smell a few weeks ago after driving to and from work. Then I noticed drops of oil on the floor in the garage. I wanted to start a consumption test so I scheduled an appointment at my dealer and asked them to look at the leak.
The invoice says they replaced some screws and a bolt near the turbo and cleaned the area. That was Monday. Today there are a few fresh drops and the burning oil smell is back as I drove to work. I made another appointment for Friday. What this could be.?
I'm at 53k miles and glad it's still covered. Just hope they get to the bottom of it.
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So I've got a 2007 2.0T FSI waggie. To my knowledge, the cam follower hasn't been replaced, at least not since I bought it when it had 64,000km on it. The car now has 125,000km on it. The car shows no signs of the CF starting to fail, just thinking preventative maintenance.
At ECS, the CF is $50. My dealer wants $100 and also 'strongly' recommends replacing the high-pressure fuel pump at the same time. The price of the pump is $500. Is this a scare tactic? I mean, I understand if the CF is worn, there will likely be wear on the pump, but replacing a $500 part when it's not necessary doesn't sit right with me. Or... just leave it alone and see if the CF fails, and get a new engine from VW under warranty.
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I was driving the car and suddenly started to vibrate and to give signs of stopping. The car doesn't have power now. I stopped the engine then start it. The idle rpm was instable and the engine stopped by himself. After i tryed harder to start, the engine started and the message Engine Fault Workshop and the sparking plug sensor apeared blinking.With that message and sensor notification on screen the car sounds normal and the rpm is idling..but after a restart the messages disappeared and the engine was again going wrong.
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I am considering buying a 98 Passat, it has 140k kms (80,000 miles) on it. It is in mint condition, but the transmission, will not shift past 2nd gear, whether in Auto mode, or manual shifting? (5 speed tiptronic).
The current owner took it to a mechanic, he tested it, replace a sensor in the tranny, but the problem is still there, and the engine light is still on. Is it possible that the computer just needs to be reset with a proper Vag-com?
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2.0T's having problems with fuel rails or fuel pump at 30,000 miles using GIAC chip. Just got back from induktion motorsports with a friend. He was having problems with fuel cut at about 4500 rpms. Holds boost up to 22lbs for some reason and then just drops down holding no boost at certain rpms between 5th and 6th gear getting on it. Car doesn't go past 80 mph until the turbo comes back (When it wants to) guys up at induktion said its prob the fuel rail or pump. They ran three different tests on the car and car still ran the same using the chip program (93 octane) and stock mode.
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Yesterday I had my first test drive of the 2012 2.5L gas Passat SEL automatic. It seemed there was often a little "stumble" as the car accelerated from rest. Is this normal or just an issue with this particular car ?
The only other annoyance I noticed was the rapid up-shifting through the gears past 30 mph. I guess it's set up this way for economy reasons, but acceleration seems to hit a wall when this occurs, then I have to apply more pressure on the go pedal. The salesman was one week on the job and knew far less about the car than I did.
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(1994 Volvo 850 2.4L L5 Base) whenever i accelerate i get high RPM's but now actual acceleration. i cleaned the MAF and it worked for a short time then it began happening again. so i ran the codes and i got back A1- 121, 131. A2- 121, 121. A3- 141, 142, 213, 214, 311, 312. A6- 131.
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My air/fuel mixture is fine. But when I accelerate then let off the pedal the engine stays at high rpm, I have to blip the throttle to get it back to idle. ?
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I have a 1990 celica hatch automatic with 33x,xxx miles on it. the cars always had problems like it would suddenly turn off or the rev would go high but all of thats been fixed
recently the car started losing power and it cant really accelerate to a high speed and speed past 30 and the car will start to shake a lil as if it was gonna turn off and even if i floor it at high speed it doesn't really go anywhere and if i use overdrive the rpm shoots way higher then usual.
Do i need new engine or is it other problem? my friend said it could be distributor?
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2006 Prius; HV battery replaced Feb 2013; A/C condenser core replaced July 2013
I searched and found a few posts with similar issues, but could not find any solutions, so I'm checking again.
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