So when i try and brake boost, I put my foot on the brake and then harder on the gas but instead of building power my ecu just cuts the boost. I tried it with traction control off aswell.
View 6 Repliesi have a 2013 golf r with about 2k miles. Say if I am in second gear and i kinda press the pedal a little harder then i usually do, i hear a weird noise. kinda sounding like a fake exhaust sound or some sort of vibration near where the e brake is. when i let go of the pedal the noise goes away. I know my description is terrible but its honestly a strange noise.
View 5 RepliesMy 2000 300M has 135k miles on her. With the a/c on when I come up to a traffic light and stop, it feels like i have to press harder then normal to keep the car stopped at the light. the other night at a light I put the car in nuetrel and the engine rpm went from 700 rpm to 1500 and up to 2000 rpm. There is no check engine light at this time. the car does not to this when the a/c is off. I have not scanned the car yet.
View 7 RepliesThree days ago while stopped at a light the car creeped forward forcing me to press harder on the brake to keep vehicle from moving.
Next day drove for 100+ miles with some stop and go traffic no problems. Third day drove 50 miles and upon arriving at home brakes felt spongy and nearly hit the floor the dash illuminated "Check Brake System".
My Camry has 5437 miles on it.
The dealer just called and said they need to replace a "brake booster". They said there is a TSB that addresses this issue in a VIN range.
Image here : YouTube [URL].....
I'm glad I was only stopping to pull into my drive way and not the freaking stop and go freeway traffic on the way to work in the morning.
I currently own a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. It is currently tuned for 15 psi supposedly. I have never seen that number been hit and the highest it will go(only in 4th and 5th gear) is 13-14psi on a good day. And even when it does get there it does not hold the boost what so ever. It will start losing boost almost as soon as it reaches those numbers. Another thing is my MAF is currently unplugged and is making my car throw a code. When MAF is plugged in it cuts out boost and goes into "limp" mode.
Here are some engine mods that may be apart of this issue:
- Front mount intercooler, full intercooler pipe kit
- Oem diverter valve
- N75 j valve
- ACHTUNING tune on 15 psi not sure which stage
- Forged turbo inlet pipe
- 032 motorsports crankcase breather hose conversion
- Ecs tuning
- 2.0t coilpacks and mounting plate
- AWP head
I normally drive my 2010 Prius. But I have been driving my wife's 2012 Camry XLE the last couple of days. (My Prius was clean and hers was not.
Well twice in the last two days I started her car and put it in drive to find it was accelerating uncontrollably! The harder I pushed on the brake the harder it accelerated.
After taking my foot off of the brake I discovered that my size 13 EEE shoe was on both the brake AND the accelerator.
Now knowing this, the same thing happened the second day! Luckily They both happened in parking lots and NO damage was incurred!
This has never happened in my 10 Prius or my 08 Prius. maybe the pedals are not as close or the Prius's low end power was not noticeable.
It would be ironic if all the BS over the floor mats came down to big feet or improperly placed pedals. My feet have been the same size for 50 years and many cars and NEVER had this occur before.
My transmission died last night on the way home from school. I was driving down the road just after leaving school and as I started to accelerate the car, I noticed that it wasn't moving so I pushed the pedal a little harder when I saw the rpm gauge rev. Up pretty high. The car was showing it was in 4 th gear and as I was slowing down so was the number on the display. I came to a stop and tried to move forward but noting. I had the car towed to the dealership so now the fun begins to see what is wrong with it.
I had the car in a few months ago for a whining sound coming from the car especially when I would put the car in reverse to back up. The dealer said we don't see anything wrong, go figure.
I'm suspecting that the transmission is shot. When the car was towed to the dealer I had to engage the parking break because the car wouldn't stay parked, it would roll even though it was in park.
Just passed 30 months and 30k miles in my 2012 TDI SEL and suddenly the air conditioning fans blow harder as I press on the accelerator pedal.
To be more clear, as I accelerate, I can hear the windshield/defogger fans blow harder. When I let up on the accelerator the fan noise dies down. I tried adjusting the A/C settings to blow to the middle or feet only, and also enabling/disabling cabin air circulation. It only seems to be the defogger fans that do this.
I have just replaced the ABS Module, and replaced the brake fluid in my 1998 VW Passat 1.8T GLI. Now my brakes don't work at all, when I press the brake It goes all the way down. All the pipes are connected correctly and everything was put back the way it was, so I don't get why the brakes aren't working at all. Passat 1998 1.8T GLI...
View 1 RepliesLove my 2012 TDI SEL. Lately I have noticed that it seems that the AC cuts out when I step on the brakes. I typically notice when I get off the freeway and come to a stop at the end of the off-ramp. The air coming out of the vents will be warm for some 5 - 10 seconds then get cold again.
I have also noticed this symptom from time to time when cruising along on the freeway. I know that some cars will disengage the AC if you really step hard on the gas, but that's not what's going on here it seems..... I have never had that happen in any other car. Is this normal for the 2012 Passat?
I was driving in tip yesterday and some of time that 3-2 downshift is choppy b/c revs dont match. So i tried a modified heel-toe, timing it so that i pressed the gas while the engine was disengaged i got a little rpm boost but then nothing as if during the shift the throttle was cut. is this possibly a safety feature to prevent unnecessary wear? or is it just not possible with a tip?
View 6 RepliesI started my car up for work this morning and it starting sputtering. I tried backing it up and the power cuts in and out. The check engine light is flashing. What could be the problem?
View 2 RepliesThe air conditioning of my 2000 Passat wagon cuts out when the car is not in motion. It works great when the car is in motion but not at all when stuck in traffic or at a stop light.
View 11 RepliesI have a funky screaming noise coming from my clutch when I press the clutch in down to the floor if I don't press it to the floor it doesn't make noise
and car still drives fine what is this noise. It makes a noise like when you over start the car it's weird. I never heard anything like this before is it a new clutch. I need or new throw out bearing of do I need to breed the clutch?
I have a 2002 Passat 1.8L T AWM Manual, 223K
I have noticed in the last little while, The car has a aplit second delay when I press the gas and it pulls.
I.e. If I'm on the highway, 5th gear 110km.h, I let go of the gas, soon as I press it again, a split second delay and it pulls with a slight jerk( Gas....... slight jerk. accel no problem).
Also, at times when the car is sitting overnight, my Airpump doesn't start when I start the car. In warmer weather, it always fires up after the car has been OFF for a period of time.
I got my Ross-Tech Vag and scanned it with no issues, except, my ABS module is not communicating.
So I was driving my cousin's Passat 1.8t gls with tip the other weekend when we went to the cottage and I got a strange message in the dash that first said STOP in big letters then Oil Press Stop Engine then Service Manual. So I immediately stopped the car. Checked the oil, it was completely full, looked around didn't see any oil on the bay so I called my cousin and he said its been doing that for a while and sometimes it says Brake Failure and I could keep driving no problem. On the drive home (3 hours) this was happening nonstop.
View 6 RepliesI've been experiencing this problem since I had the car but it gets me around fine and has been getting 30mpg; hasnt bothered me all that much but i'd really like to get the problem solved... A few months ago I hooked up a boost gauge and she would not boost beyond 2psi. Since then I've changed the air filter, spark plugs and found a wire that was un-plugged causing the engine light to stay on. Hooked up a scanner and no more codes.. But the car still doesnt pull the way I'd think it should and with a stop watch hits 60 in no less than 9 seconds (shouldn't it be around 8?). The WG actuator rod is free, but I disconnected that electronic control solonoid, drove the car hard and there was no change in performance or driveability! One thing I havent done is change the fuel filter so I'm thinking maybe it's in a limp mode and awaiting the fuel filter to be changed? But then wouldnt a code come on if this is the case?
View 9 RepliesMy engine light came on a few days ago and with no signs of problems I decided to wait until next week to take it in. At the end of a 70 mile highway trip today when I exited the highway and coasted to a stop the engine cut out. I managed to coax the car home but the idle was very rough and it would cut out when I came to a stop. At times I noticed the engine light flashing. What this could be - I may try to coax it to my garage which is about 15 miles away tomorrow if possible.
View 6 RepliesIs there anyway to disable this annoying "press brake pedal to start" on the 2010 with Vag Com or some other magic tricks? I searched and found a thread but no solution if there is any.
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My wife hit a deer going 60MPH 3 hours from home. Go back up and pick up the car, it's down on power, I feel it surging on and off boost, hard to drive smooth. Roughly a half hour later I get a CEL. Don't have the code handy, but Boost limit Maximum exceeded. My local VW dealer says its a normal wear and tear item so Allstate will not cover it. The car had the radiator, radiator support, condenser, hood, bumper, grill, passenger fender, timing belt cover and timing belt replaced.
Allstate says not covered, like a flat tire, once I leave the shop, its like a flat tire on the road, nothing to do with the repair. BTW I had it repaired at an Allstate recommended PRO shop. I get it back tonight after 8 weeks of fooling around. Will need to check the actuator, hopefully it's bad. The turbo itself is good, boost fine, no smoke.
This is an 04 Passat 1.8T. I have had 14 cars with turbos, still have four and have never had a turbo go bad, full synthetic oil every 3K and 60 second cool down in hot weather.
Is there any difference in boost between drive and manually shifting with a tiptronic? How about using sport mode?
I saw a video of a guy testing hist mkv with apr stage two and he reported that he was not getting full boost when manually shifting his dsg.