Passat (B5) :: Driving On Freeway And Cruising At 75mph When Suddenly Car Shut Off
Jun 7, 2013
Okay, So this has happened to me about five times now over the past year or so. I will be driving and my car will literally shut off. yesterday, I was driving on the freeway and was just cruising at 75mph when all of a sudden out of no where my car makes a big jolt and then the rpm's go from around 3k to 0. I have had this in the shop for this problem many times and no one can really seem to figure out what is wrong. when my car shuts off while im driving, the oil light comes on, traction control light comes on, as well as the battery light. What's even more weird about this problem is once the car stops, if i try to start it right away it wont fire up... It will just roll over. But. if I wait for a while the car starts and drives normal with all the lights off. This is not only annoying but very dangerous.
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Okay, so I was looking for a parking spot and my car just shut down. I didn't think much of this at the time because i was rushing to take a class for school. On my way home I was on the freeway going 75mph and it SHUT down again. So what happened was it was in drive and the the motor just stopped running and I costed in the gore zone. So I tried to start it and it wouldn't, I gave a few seconds and removed the key then tried again and it started. when I got closer to my house it happened again and this time through a CEL and the oils pressure and battery light were flashing and on the screen it said "STOP!" I did the same thing and got it to my house. Whats going on????
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The engine of our VW Passat 2000 quit suddenly while driving home on freeway. Night. Rain. We put on the flasher lights as we were slowing while trying to move to the right lane. No shoulder as we we were on a bridge. Do not remember being rammed from behind. Had a new battery installed one month earlier after VW mechanics could find no reason for intermittent non-starting of car which we had been experiencing. They had run "fault codes".
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I've got an 03 Passat with 110,000mi on the 2.8L 30v and 01V. I've had this intermittent problem for a while. Occasionally while cruising on the freeway, the car would start to buck, feeling like the trans was slipping in and out of gear, but rpms would stay constant as far as I remember. Also, the ASR light would come on and flash. The car would continue bucking until I pulled over and shut the car off. When I restart, all is fine again.
The dealer pulled codes and only found a EVAP canister purge valve code. They fixed that and said that should take care of the aformentioned problem. I didn't think the code was related to my problem and sure enough, it wasn't. My car still does it, but now there seems to be more related to this problem.
I was driving the other day on the freeway again, this time with my cruise control on. Everything seemed fine until the accelerator pedal dropped to the floor and the car began to accelerate on its own. I quickly switched off the cruise and braked to slow the car down to my original speed, and then the car continued bucking as it always had, now with the ASR light fully on. Pulled over again to restart, problem gone again. What gives? Went to have codes read again and nothing is found.
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I have a 2013 Golf R Apr stage 2+ with about 74k on the odo. I have been stage 2 for about 5k and was stage 1 for about 20k before going stage 2. Changed my plugs and coils at stage 2 as well. So was driving on the highway at about 60 just cruising when all of a sudden there was a minor hiccup in the car and then pushed the gas pedal and nothing, RPMs started falling and then car shut off, put the clutch in and coasted to the side of the road. Tried to restart and it would not.
I have power and car tries to start but won't catch and turn over. Towed it back to a buddies shop and let it sit overnight, still won't start. started poking around. Checked Hpfp and everything seems fine, cam follower and cam are good. Noticed that when I open my drivers door now I don't hear the other fuel pump prime like it usually does and after putting hpfp back on and opening drivers door a couple times we checked the Schrader valve on the hpfp and no fuel came out like it usually would. Have it narrowed down to most likely culprits; Faulty in tank fuel pump, faulty fuel pump control module, faulty fuel pump relay.
Btw just thought of this, no check engine light ever came on, also don't have a way to pull codes.
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Ok, so I was driving to work this morning and the car was fine. I went to pass someone in the fast lane and when I stepped on the gas it started to build boost, then the engine cut off and the EPC light came on. I turned the car off and then back on, so I tried to accelerate hard again and same thing happened. I can accelerate, but only mid throttle (1-5 psi) as soon as the boost starts to build (6-10 psi) the car literally shuts down. I was able to make it to work, but was worried i wasn't going to make it, the car seemed to sputter on the highway. I don't believe it is a coil issue, I have R8 plugs that i put in 20-30k ago, but I am not 100% maybe spark plugs?
Car is a GTI with 76XXX miles, 6 speed, and stage 2 apr. I have the car in stock mode with all stock parts on.
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I have a 2003 new beetle with a manual transmission. It has about 60K miles. I was driving down the freeway (about 60mph steady, not stop and go), and my car suddenly lost all acceleration. Pressing on the gas did not rev the engine. Otherwise, my car was on. I pulled over and put it in first and it still would not go. However, when I turned my car off and back on, it started like a charm and I was able to move and accelerate. .
I took it to the mechanic and they could not find anything wrong with it except that the battery was low. I don't think that could be the problem, could it? I'd hate to bring the car back out on the freeway, but how can I fix it if there's nothing wrong with it.
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OK so here's the deal. Driving around town @ lower speeds I've yet to have this problem. When driving at freeway speeds seems like between 1/4 tank & reserve all of a sudden the power just drops off . I mean like the ignition has been turned off. No throttle response .. nothing..... just begins coasting & dropping speed. When throttle is depressed... totally dead. This lasts for about 5-10 seconds then after coasting & looking where to pull off the highway all of a sudden the engine kicks back in like nothing ever happened. Where to look for Jetta MK 4 18T Fuel supply problem??
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My 08 prius completely shut off while driving on the california freeways today. No warnings no lights on the dash nothing. Just powered off. Will not start the ready light of any dash lights for that matter work.. tried to jump it.. nothing working. What the he'll can cause thus.. I'm about 500 miles from home with a car just parked. Could a 12v battery cause this no start issue?
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I own a 2003 Chrysler town and country. I was driving home and all of a sudden the car just shut off. I coasted to the side of the road and tried to restart and nothing. The warning signals( i.e., seat belt etc.) came on normal but when I turned the key nothing no sound. I have no clue as to what is wrong with it. Had it towed home and here it sits.
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Its not my car (its my father in laws). The other day his 05 prius (170k miles) shut off while he was driving. He pushed it home and I sent him a link on how to check the 12v battery. He said it showed it was low so he used his golf cart battery to go and take it for a test drive to see if that fixed the problem. In the drive way at idle his hybrid battery charge went up half way but when he went to drive it he got 1/8th of a mile down the road and it dropped to 0 then the car shut off again. He said the display says something about the battery (I haven't been over to look at the car).
They are sure its the hybrid battery, but if it was me I'd go to the dealer and find out for sure. My husbands aunt had her hybrid battery go out and hers did other things, like go into turtle mode and a/c blew hot. I think her inverter pump went out and she kept driving it till the battery got messed up, but anyway...What does my father in laws symptoms sound like? Is there any extra at home testing that can be done?
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Was driving vehicle on highway at 75mph (speed limit) and the engine cut off. Just prior to this event, the vehicle was acting sluggish when stepping on the gas pedal. It took the vehicle from 5-10 seconds to respond to the acceleration requests.
Up until this point, the vehicle would work normally except for the transmission, (we've always had a problem with this from day 1), the GMC mechanics said they even took the trany apart and put it back together and couldn't find any issues. The transmission, when moving from a stopped position will not engage into gear for several seconds (4s - 7s) and when it does, the van pops into gear, jerking the van.
Vehicle: 2004 GMC Savana 1500 passenger Van
Mileage: 105,000
History: has had regular oil changes/tuneups
Primary Issue: Engine shut off while driving at 75mph
Secondary Issue: Tranny pops into gear after delay from stopped position (from park to drive or park to reverse)
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I have a 1996 F250 460CI that was running great for years and all of a sudden it shut off for a few seconds when I was on the expressway. It was like turning the ignition key off and turning it back on. It did it several times and eventually just died and would not start. I put a new coil on and it worked fine for about 150 miles and now it started doing the same thing again. The check engine light was on for a few seconds but not all the time so I am not sure if diagnostic equipment will show any error messages. Mileage on my truck is 92k. Does this sound like a distributor pickup issue?
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My car (1994 TBird, LX) has an intermittent problem where the rpm's surge while I'm cruising down the freeway. I've noticed that it happens more often on an incline, and it also happens more during rush hour when I have to frequently slow down and the accelerate again.
If I had to guess, I think it's the TCC Solenoid that's the issue. Would replacing this likely solve the problem? Or would I be better served having my mechanic unplug it? My car is giving error codes to replace the camshaft position sensor (related?), and while important, I need to address the rpm issue first as it's getting progressively worse. Tranny fluid is clean, although I've only owned the car for 2 months so I don't know when it was last replaced.
I can't afford a huge repair, but I have a certified mechanic who's always done right by me, but he's not the best at diagnosis. I'd feel better if I could whittle down the issues and then just tell him what to fix.
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My tpms light came on tonight after 15 minutes of freeway driving. I checked the pressure in all 4 tires, and they were all right about 36 lbs. The door jamb tire info says 33 lbs cold, so this seems about right to me. why the tpms light might have come on? Is the spare tire hooked up to the tpms system? My Passat is only 1 month old, so I'm surprised the light came on.
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I have a 2001 Passat (automatic, Turbo) On the highway, the engine shakes from about 65-75mph. When I hit around 80 (3000rpm) it seems like the Turbo kicks in and it isn't as bad. I noticed on my last oil change bill that they didn't put in synthetic oil even though they said they did. The people who I bought it from said they had engine problems when using regular and to only use synthetic. Could this be causing it? If not, what could it be?
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Cruising down the highway, my 2001 Santa Fe engine suddenly cut out. Would crank, but not fire. Not hearing a sound from the back when I flipped on the key, suspected the fuel pump, which I replaced. No go.
I'd pressed the fuel pump reset switch under the hood - checked it again. Should the switch, when it's pressed, stay in a locked position, like when you do a reset on a GFCI electrical outlet? Or is it normal for it to have the up/down 'play' in it?
Also noticed a strange buzzing on the other side of the engine compartment -- was the unit (don't know what it's called) that the throttle cable feeds into - hooks onto a pulley. The buzzing was intermittent and inconsistent, but it was happening with just the power switch on.
Oh, and did replace the fuel pump fuse, too. While it's at 280.000 miles, not quite ready to give up on 'er yet!
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I finally drove the Celica for the first time to work after rebuilding the front end. As I was exiting off the freeway the car suddenly stalled. I coasted into the lot and tried to restart. The car struggled to restart and when it finally restarted it ran extremely rough with a lot of metal on metal clatter. I tried to drive it to the other end of the parking lot and the clatter got worse and worse. Sounds like the contents of a tool box in a paint shaker.
It's always run great prior to this. The only thing that seems to have changed is the work I did to the front end and the replacement of some seals on the timing chain cover. The car still has oil but I can see oil splatter on the bottom of the distrubutor. I'm going to have it towed home in the morning.
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I'm at a loss here, I bought a salvaged 2001 Prius at an insurance auction and fixed it up. After driving it for about a year the car suddenly dies on me in the middle of the freeway and i had to pull it over. the car hasn't started since. I can get it to turn on but the engine won't turn, and whenever I turn the steering wheel more than 45 degrees it makes this electrical sound the wheels jerks back to the original position and the PS message beeps on. I brought it to a dealership and they said it was a problem with the transaxle but they weren't sure.
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I was driving the car and suddenly started to vibrate and to give signs of stopping. The car doesn't have power now. I stopped the engine then start it. The idle rpm was instable and the engine stopped by himself. After i tryed harder to start, the engine started and the message Engine Fault Workshop and the sparking plug sensor apeared blinking.With that message and sensor notification on screen the car sounds normal and the rpm is idling..but after a restart the messages disappeared and the engine was again going wrong.
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Asking for my Dad. Driving lights suddenly quit coming on. dealer checked fuses - no problem. Dealer (oil change guy) not sure how to access lights for bulb checking or replacement. Says you need to remove front bumper cover...
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