Passat (B5) :: Driver Door Lock Replacement Mechanisms?
Jan 30, 2008
What tips or gotchas do I need to watch out for when replacing the driver door lock mechanism with a used one from the junkyard (assume working well)?
Is it difficult to sync the unit with the remote or is it as easy as inserting the key in the lock and turning it both directions like I've read?
What's up with those stupid plastic compression pins that hold the lock mechanism to the inner door skin? Those things are terrible! I tried using some small 10mm bolts instead but it totally screwed up the alignment of the door handle
Are those little plastic things one time use, like I'm thinking? Why can't my local dealer get me replacement ones?
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My car occasionally locks me out! When I lock the car using the driver's side automatic lock, it works fine, but then it won't let me back in. My repair shop says the left-side locking mechanism needs to be replaced but they can't get the part. The car is a 1992 Cadillac Brougham that I've had since new. The car is in great shape and runs like a top.
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On occasion my drivers side door will not unlock, I have a SEL with the key less sensors so as I try to get in the car it unlocks all the rest of the doors but not the drivers, I have to go to the other side and physically use the inside latch and then that door unlocks. I notice this when I run the remote start cycle twice more than anything.
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I've had my 2013 for about 1.5 years and I've had the cold lock issue repeatedly as I'm sure anyone in a cold climate has had (once where every single door was frozen and I couldn't even use the damn thing until it got warmer). Now the drivers door won't lock. It shuts and the latch engages, but it won't lock. The alarm enables when I click to lock (not really, but the led flashes red), but you can just pull open the drivers door. The alarm doesn't sound. It's been above freezing for at least the last week here...
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The lock post (or whatever you call it) on the driver door stays up when all the other lock posts go down, either when the car is moving, or you lock with the remote. I first noticed this when it was wet outside a couple months back - then it became intermittent, now it's always. How to fix it?
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I have a similar door rattle near the door lock area on the driver's side. It sounds like metal touching metal. I took the door panel off and found nothing loose or unusual. The rattle is driving me crazy.
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its kinda like its freezing up; the pin wont go down sometimes and I have to cycle it multiple times b4 it will descend.
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Its an electrical issue.
I have a couple issues that have been bothering me lately. The drivers door lock is intermittent to lock when trying to lock it with the remote or the auto locking when going a certain speed. To get it to lock, I either have to unlock the entire car with the door switch then it will lock with the switch, or unlocking the car with the remote before hitting the lock button. It will also relock itself even if I opened the door and is sitting in the seat, just like if you unlock it and don't open the door it relocks.
My car alarm horn is not working, either with the alarm going off, in panic mode, or when hitting the lock button twice.
I also am having issues with the drivers side window, the only way it goes down is if you press the button all the way down to automatically go all the way down. If I try to go down without going all the way, when I press the button it goes up.
And last but not least, after replacing a wheel bearing last night when I got home, the interior light wouldn't work with the door until I locked it and unlocked it with the key but afterwards it worked again
The car is a 2000 1.8t with 221,000 miles auto no modifications except euroswitch.
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So last night I tried to lock my car door i put the key in and tried to turn it to lock it and it wouldn't move as if it were stuck or something so i had to lock it from the passenger side and this morning i went to go check it out and sprayed a little bit of WD-40 on the key and inside the part the key goes in since it wouldn't move and was stuck i thought that might have worked but instead all it did was make it worse now it just spins in circles freely without locking or unlocking my doors i have to do it from the passenger side ...
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I can lock the doors with the key fob but it does not beep. The alarm sets, and the passenger doors all lock, but the drivers door does not. I have checked that all doors are closing properly, and the transmission is in park.
I also tried both key fobs with the same result. The alarm LED flashes about 6 times before glowing steady - is this a code of some sort?
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For the past couple days my 02 passat drivers side door wont lock with out being manually locked, when my light are on and I get out of my car it does not chime and my lights wont come on when I open the door.
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I'm at a complete loss, My drivers side back door has stopped working, Alarm, window and lock, I've checked my fuses, and it seems i only have 3 doors in the fuse box, what are the numbers to the door fuses in the box.
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My newly purchased 1999 b5 passat wont lock/unlock with the key. The key does nothing and i dont have the flip key, i want to get a new flip key from the dealer but i am unsure if they can code it to my car if the lock dosent work i took the door panel off but didnt want to take off the inner metal skin to figure it out.
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The rear driver side door on my Passat doesn't work right, it doesn't lock or unlock from the button on the front two doors....and the window only rolls down when that door is open and the car is running, how to fix?
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So, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
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I just purchased an '02 Camry. All doors lock with remote and interior door lock buttons. Only driver door unlocks with remote and door lock buttons. I have seen other posts with this issue, but not a clear solution.
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I have a 2007 4 door Sonata, and the Driver door power door lock does not always function. It make a noise like it is working, but most of the time it does not lock or unlock the door. The other doors work fine, and I need to manually lock and unlock the driver door with the key. I'm told that the problem is probably the door lock motor. Looking for some detailed instructions on how to remove and replace this motor?
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I do have an Accent 2002 automatic 1,6 L. All doors have a power lock door motor EXCEPT driver door. The only way to lock or unlock ALL doors is with the key.
If I unlock the driver door, all door unlock. I know I have to add a motor to the mechanism in the driver door, but I don't know what to add exactly...
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I spent write a bit of time and this process is living proof i can't do it.
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2007 Prius here. A few months ago I had a similar problem. Basically when putting my hand on the door sensor, the doors would cycle through unlocking (noise, lights flash etc) without actually unlocking. If I keep pulling the handle after each attempt it seems to go forever.
The front passenger door also did not lock under any circumstance.
Took it into Toyota, they absolutely screwed me I now realize, $900 to replace a door actuator in that passenger door.
Worked fine for a few weeks. Then all of a sudden, problem started again. Just like last time, slowly slowly over the course of 2 months, it got worse and worse until today I could not open the driver side front or rear door at all.
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Everytime i hit the lock button on my keyfob the passenger door locks and the alarm goes on but my door does not lock no matter what. i tried locking the door first then getting out. Hitting the button a few times.
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