Passat (B5) :: Drive Axle Boots Ripped
Sep 23, 2009
So I went to rotate my tires today and noticed grease around the inside of the rim to which i then noticed that my Drive Axle Boots are ripped. I noticed the grease around the wheel well last time I changed my oil and thought it was something I drove through. I guess Not How much should this job cost? I called the mechanic and he said because there is no "clicking" noise when I turn that he can replace the boots and add grease and it should be fine but that job will cost $500, $250 for each side. Should I stop driving the car right away?
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So I finally got a chance to pull the front wheels off the car yesterday and noticed that BOTH outer CV boots are ripped and there is grease everywhere. How long this has been going on for but I haven't noticed any grinding or popping noises yet so hopefully they're still good.
I've checked on ECS Tuning and they have replacement boots, OEM ones. I'm honestly really low on funds, and would like to opt for the cheaper ones but wondering if I will regret it,
Also, as far as replacing the boots go, I'm sure it's easiest just to remove both axles correct? Do I need any special tools for this job? Any DIYs? This is my daily so I will have to drive it like this for the time being although I really don't want to.?
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Looking for DIY replace the Axle Assembly. I noticed a bunch of grease splattered on the low control arms both sides. Replace the inner and outer boots or have to replace the whole assembly?
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A Lexus dealer in NJ told me my 2005 GX470 front axle boots leaking, they gave me a quote to re-build both side.
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I have a 2008 Outback and I just got news from my repairman that says there is a leak in the head gasket and one of my axle boots is cracking. The axle boot is not the major concern, but is it worth it to spend $ to get it fixed or should I say "Hasta La Vista" and look into buying a new car? I hit a deer and thoroughly damaged the front end about a year and a half ago and I am not sure if that has "shakin' things up".
I currently have about 85K miles on the car. I don't mind repairing the car if it doesn't turn into the Money Pit.
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So lifted my Manual 1.8t B5 onto jack stands to start some serious work on it. Found that lower rear control arm had gone "significantly bad" and the right drive axle shaft had pulled out of the outer CV joint. Needed to warm up the oil before draining it so put the car in neutral and started the engine. Went outside to check on something and WOAH, the right drive axle that had come apart from the CV joint was slowly turning WHILE IN NEUTRAL. The left drive axle that is still attached to the outer CV joint and with the tire attached but off the ground is standing still.
I can grab that spinning drive shaft and it stops but I can still feel it vibrating. Let me reiterate, the left side is doing nothing and the right side spins while in neutral.
Is this normal? This doesn't seem possible. Is it just that there is insufficient friction without the outer CV joint to keep it from spinning, ie. even though in neutral there is sufficient friction on the flywheel from the clutch plate to give torque on the driveshaft. But what I don't understand is how the right one can turn like that while the left one doesn't. It would seem that something else is going on.
I guess a car's one tire can be spinning on ice while the other does not. It is just strange that this is happening in neutral.
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Went in for a tune-up and inspection on my 03 1.8 passat. Turns out my cv boots are shot. How much should I expect to pay for parts & labor, I will not be going to the vw stealership to get this done. It's just the fronts that need to be done.
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My girlfriend and I replaced both of thee axles on her Passat this past spring. She just brought her car in for a oil change and the mechanic noted that both outer CV Boots are twisted and leaking and the right front sway bar link has some play. Do these two could problems could be connected? Is the sway bar link a replace able part?
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I went to get my tires rotated and the mechanic noticed that the right outboard CV Joint boot on my passat had a little tear in it, but the grease hadn't leaked all out. I replaced both the outboard and inboard CV Joint Boots. Below is a nice link for DIY step by step write up with great pictures.
[URL] .....
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I took off my inner axle to drop my control arm and remove my strut, but when I go to try and put it back in it doesn't reach. Is there something that I'm forgetting to do?
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I'm almost 99% positive I need to replace my Drivers Front Axle Assembly. I can feel it "click" when I reverse down my drive way and at low speeds regardless whether I turn the wheel. However, at street speeds, you can no longer feel it. I wanted to know if all Axles aftermarket are created equal.
Can I go with the one from ECS : [URL] ..... Or is this a part where staying OEM is important?
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I have a 2003 3.5 liter, AWD and I'm attempting to remove and replace the drive axle on the passenger side. I have the one end out of the hub, but the transmission end will not come out. I removed the bolts holding the bearing plate, and have been trying to pry out the axle with no luck.
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Its a automatic transmission with a v6 4.3 vortec. The front axle will not engage, it is not the acuator (I replaced it and the cable) you can pull the cable and the axle will engage. There is a low buzzing noise(coming from the drivers side) until you give it gas. This noise stops when the front axle is engaged. The transfer case will go from hi to low without any problems.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe crdi automaticl. When I push the 4 wheel drive button, the light in the dash goes on but the axels do not lock up. There is no code number that show up. Is this a sensor problem or what?
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I have the dreaded click-click-click noise when turning that is indicative of my CV joint going tits up. Checking it out the boot is split and there is some grease. So, I plan on going ahead and changing both sides drive axles out, since the Camry has 178k on it (yeah, 178k on a 2009.)
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I just had my right drive axle replaced on my 1992 accord today at a mechanic chain store. I have notice fluid leaking/dripping from where the axle and transmission meet. What is occurring? Could it be they didn't replaced any seals or the axle is a wrong fit. Its a manual transmission by the way.
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What size socket I need to remove the driveaxle hub bolts from this car? I can see the bolts are considerably larger than the socket I have for my Ford Tauruses, and I would like to eliminate the guess work before I go to carquest to get the proper socket. Unfortunately bringing the car to the store and trying sockets until I get one that fits is not an option, since the car is not running right now.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo that has me stumped as to why it leaks. The driver side axle seal leaks fluid only after a drive. I have replaced the axle twice and seal 6 times and it still leaks. I am stumped on this one. Unless I got a bad axle twice that the diameter of the sealing surface is too small but didn't seem like it as the seal hugs the shaft.
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I am a new 6.7 owner and had/ have a 7.3 As I have been getting to know the truck I have been under it and noticed that the front drive shaft and axle are locked in. My hubs are switched to auto but I know on my 2000 7.3 when my hubs are on auto my front axle and driveshaft are disengaged... I'm wondering if the new 4x4 system is different. I know that can save on MPG
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Today I took the bed off of my 99 ranger. I was sitting on the cab looking down at the rear axle noticed the drive shaft was not entering the rear diff perfectly straight. As I looked further into it, I noticed the distance between the rear spring on the passenger side tire, is noticeably different. To visualize it, the wheel, at the bumper side of the axle, has a shorter distance between it and the leafs than the cab side. Not massive, but a few inches, and it's noticeable now that I can stand over it. I'm beginning to be very annoyed by this truck and it's previous owners, whom I take it , scammed my brother quite well with a $5k tag for a truck with so much not right with it. It's about to become my yard art for awhile.
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I have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
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